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Found 331 results

  1. Wildgoose

    titan 2 cutting issues

    If you are prefeeding and it will run straight on the way out but not stay straight on the way back, all this while no blade touching then you have a tracking issue for sure. They usually don't recommend messing with the tension on the pinch rollers but possibly one got messed with or has become weak. We have seen new owners immediately start cranking on the pinch roller springs and get all sorts of wonky. If you can get it running true in and out without a blade then adjust your blade appropriately and it starts dragging the vinyl out of track then you could have weak pinch rollers. (not common) Most of the time we see set up being wrong and too much force being applied which causes bunching and off-track. A remedy can be as simple as a high quality Clean Cut blade that uses less force to cut with. Cutting stencil though is probably rough and tough with lots of pressure. I make a couple passes if I cut stencil so I don't abuse my machine but mine has great tracking and will stay in the same grove.
  2. I do two passes and I’m cutting through laminated Calendared vinyl. Vinyl is 11mil and laminate it 3 mil. 2 contour cuts and they pop out nice and clean. Sometimes you have to play with pressure to fine tune it.
  3. Hello I have a titan 3 vinyl cutter, i printed some text on a HP Latex 365 i did the contour cut option, everything printed well with registration marks. When i put it in my cutter and give the command to start it does not red the markings just passes on top and on the screen it says marks not detected, even if it detects the line one time when it goes for the second registration it misses it. Can someone tell me what i can do?
  4. haumana

    Reflective

    As weird as this sounds - sometimes I need the reflective to be temporary. If anyone has tried to peel off reflective, then they should know that it comes off in small pieces and is a total pain to remove. So when a temporary application is needed, I will often pre-layer the reflective on some 651 (whatever color I have the most inventory in), and then run it through the cutter, doing two passes. The end result is a pretty thick decal, but removing it is a breeze. Ditto on the Clean Cut Blade!
  5. ShaneGreen

    Reflective

    Definitely get you a "CleanCut" blade. It cuts reflective so much better. Slow down as slow as it can go and you may still have to do 2 passes. I have a LP II and have spent days testing and retesting reflective. I've finally settled on: - a 60 degree CleanCut blade, - 450g of force. "Force" seems to be pretty relative and varies from machine to machine. I cut 651 at 125g but I've seen people say they use anywhere from 50 to 200. But mine needs roughly 3 1/2 times the force to cut reflective. - a speed of 100. That's the slowest mine will go. - two passes. It will cut in one pass the majority of the time, but I cut larger decals and when it doesn't complete the cut I'm wasting a lot of time and money. - weed immediately. Reflective seems to self-heal a lot quicker than 651. - be careful of fine details. Things like the dot on the letter "i" may cause you problems staying stuck to the backing paper. - Test, test and test some more.
  6. Less force means I need more passes, correct? Doesn't look like the gs-24 plays nicely with macOS due to it requiring an Adobe Illustrator plugin.
  7. You may have had better luck, if you went with the Graphtec FC unit. The Graphtecs are just better, heavy duty cutters. That is what they are built for. There used to be a guy on here years back that cut plastic with his, making several passes. I own 2 of these FC cutters, and they are tanks. I have never tried to cut thicker materials, as that is not my niche' My niche' is very large long vinyl graphics. The cutters also have different positions that you can put the pinch rollers at to hold the material. You can still find good deals on the used Graphtec FC cutters. You just have to have the money and grab it.
  8. Any of you guys who run the lasers think you could cut with a laser? To klcjr - Magnets as mentioned are really hard to cut and hard on a fine tuned machine. Getting your cutter to cut accurately would be the very first thing you would need to do and you would want to start out by cutting some cheap sign vinyl which it's actually designed to cut. IF it's cutting regular vinyl at regular pressures ok but not the magnet then you will have an answer about whether your cutter has a problem or if it's related to the 30 mil issue. Assuming that it ALSO cuts out of dimensions then you will need to calibrate your cutter. Each cutting program goes about it a little different but they pretty much all have a way. If it's cutting sign vinyl at the correct size but not the magnet then you are probably not going to have success. The heavy magnetic material is likely more weight than your pinch rollers can keep hold of properly especially if you are dragging a knife blade through it. I have cut a few, and I stress FEW, like two times with my Summa. I did three passes at a regular pressure and it did ok. You also have a whole other part of the equation that you are probably not considering. You can't cut clear through any material without having some sort of carrier sheet. Vinyl and Heat Transfer Vinyl come on a carrier sheet. I seriously doubt your magnet does. I recommend if you keep trying and get it to cut satisfactory that you should leave just a little bit so the magnet is still one piece and then you can break it free. That's what I did on the couple that I cut. This will work for an occasional project but mass production is probably not all that viable. The big factories use a true die cutter and stamp cut them out I think. Very mass production.
  9. I did actually; I played with the blade depth, downforce, tried three and four passes, and tried cutting the magnet with the wax paper liner side facing down. No dice. Calibration is inconsistent.
  10. So, did you ever try the multiples passes?
  11. All you have to do is put the word passes in the search bar upper right corner. Click options Scroll thru all the results like I just did, Pages and pages of topics, that we have told the OP to use 2 or more passes for what ever they were cutting. http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/search/&q=passes
  12. My apologies if it sounded like I wasn't taking advice or haven't tried to search before posting. I am definitely going to try multiple passes! As a machine designer, I was merely curious how the plotter actually advances the depth of the blade on each pass. From my prior knowledge, I think this can only be accomplished with a leadscrew and motor.
  13. It has been posted many,many times on here about making multiple passes. It's not just magnet material. It's sticky flock. glitter HTV material, carbon fiber, reflective and many other thick materials. According to the UScutter buying guide, your not even supposed to cut high intensity reflective that is over 23 mil, but people do it and do it with 2 or more passes. But their taking that chance of tearing up their machine doing it. Here is the buying guide. You don't see magnet on the buying guide. https://www.uscutter.com/index/page/static/subpage/buying_guides_new
  14. It cuts the same design 2 or 3 times more, just like it did the 1st time. you choose the number of passes in your cutting software. Each pass will cut deeper. But like stated above. I would never run 30 mil magnet thru my Graphtec and I have a heavy duty FC unit. Good luck with your project.
  15. I don't understand what you're saying? I asked a question asking how the multiple passes physically works? If the blade is either fully down or fully up, how exactly does multiple passes work? If the blade advances let's say 200 microns down each pass, this would be understandable to me as it's taking less of a 'bite' of the material per pass and is how other types of machines with a Z axis work. (CNC background) Sorry if I sounded confusing
  16. I still don't understand what 'multiple passes' means if the bladeholder solenoid is either fully up or fully down. The pinch rollers are also fully covering the material, cut and not-cut. I'm also not fully cutting through the material either.
  17. When there's a heavy drag, tracking gets to be more tricky. If i have to do layers - like reflective on vinyl because I want to be able to peel it the reflective off easily, I always do multiple passes - the force is lighter so there's less drag on the material when it's moving, less chance for the tracking to go askew. And do you have rollers on the part that's being cut, as well as the 'outside material' because once there is definitive cut through your material, only the part that being pinched by roller will want to jog back and forth, there by adding to drag. If you were trying to do with paper, the paper would bunch. That's why machines like the Cricut need to have 'carrier' sheets that have a light adhesive - it keeps everything moving as a single piece, even though it's cut so stuff doesn't bunch or get caught. You're basically cutting something that's 12x thicker than 651 vinyl, which is done in a single pass. I wouldn't even attempt to do a 30mil anything in a single pass.
  18. How does multiple passes work exactly? Does the solenoid somehow increase the depth on each subsequent pass? Otherwise, I don't understand how this works. I will gladly try multiple passes if you can explain how the feature works. The magnet material is loaded into the plotter with the 3M kraft paper (adhesive liner) facing up due to the way the magnet material is rolled.
  19. trying to cut the very thick material in one pass causes more drag than if done in multiple passes - that causes slippage. I too never subjected any of my plotters to cutting 30 mil magnets - for rectangles I used straight edge and a corner rounding tool.
  20. I am not understanding how the amount of passes would correct the dimensions and the non square cuts that I am trying to solve? Can you enlighten me? Thank you so much for helping!
  21. I have never cut magnet, but I have read that most people who cut thick materials are cutting with 2-3 passes. Are you doing that? Or just trying to cut with 1 deep pass?
  22. The lower end cutters tend to drift because they just don't track as well. How are you cutting it twice? - are you sending it to the cutter twice, or do you have the design layered in your software? When I have to make multiple passes, I always layer and send it to the cutter once. I got much better results from my LP that way.
  23. Hello, I have been cutting vinyl and HTV with no problem but then here comes the cardstock, making look like I don't know what I'm doing. Ha. I am trying to cut out invitations and cupcake toppers with my MH-871 and I am unsure of the settings I need to use. I have a cutting mat for it and I installed the 60 degree blade, but I am having trouble getting it to cut all the way through without two passes and for some reason it is shifting just a tiny bit and making it to where there are two cuts instead of just going through the same path twice. Help please!
  24. mihaidimitras

    help cutting reflective vinyl with the titan 3

    Hi i have the same Titan 3 and the same material 3m 3931 for me the setting that works is pressure 650- 675 and a 60 deg blade. Instead using a lot of material just use a piece and the test button until you get a perfect cut and the depth that you need and go from there . The second option would be to cut twice( 2 passes on the same path) .
  25. MZ SKEETER

    LP3 Suction

    Vinyl cutters/Plotters use the same basic functions and have for many years, Some with just more bells and whistles. Depending on which company made it, as to what they put on their button controls. Control panel. My Graphtec says Force. Or even in the cutting software, what they call it. Pressure/Force is the same thing. When someone asks about either one for their settings, we know what they are talking about. I might be wrong, but I think this last version LP3 cutters were introduced in 2018. Several different Laser Pointer models in the past. By the way, how did you set your blade depth. ? Reason I ask, is because UScutter, keeps posting videos with the wrong way to do it, and it is too much blade depth exposed. Blade depth is the first thing that you start with and it has to be correct from the git go, or the rest of your settings will not be correct. Tip: Never be pulling from the roll while cutting, Always have enough vinyl slack to do the order. My cutter has a prefeed, It helps with tracking and pulling the vinyl to give it the slack it needs. Buyers guide says this on reflective and your cutter. But buyers have tried different materials with their cutters. Some use 2 passes while cutting thicker materials. NOT for use on laminate sandblast mask reflective window tint https://www.uscutter.com/index/page/static/subpage/buying_guides_new Your welcome