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I purchased vinylmaster xpt. Which listed the L25500 in the demo. Once i activated the full version, I went to setup the L25500, and I got a little pop window saying the driver is pending or something to that effect. I was then given the links you listed and downloaded the driver. It now lists the printer. I have installed a few profiles into the media profile. I was wondering does vinylmaster xpt allow you to adjust the settings of the printer, such as drying temp, curing temp, and how many print passes to set the printer to?

try two maybe three passes with normal pressure, trying to hog through in one pass may be your issue. I have never cut that material but that is how I cut multi layer multi material projects.

I drew a design using the bezier curve and circle tool in inkscape. I would like my vinyl cutter to trace the pattern one time as viewed in outline display mode...real simple. If I select everything and assign a 1px stroke width, the cutter will make 2 passes (sees the line as having width) If I select everything and assign a fill color, I get 5 extra vertical lines where the stripes meet the circle (cuts what you would see in normal mode) even though the segment there has been deleted. Maybe I'm going about it all the wrong way or missing something obvious. Rsample.svg

Not necessarily true that Coroplast will emit HCl or Cl gas if laser cut. True Coroplast is not a vinyl product. According to the MSDS, it is polypropylene. PVC (vinyl) molecules contain chlorine which produces HCl and Cl gas when vaporized. Polypropylene molecules only contain hydrogen and carbon. Though it probably wouldn't be a great idea to directly breathe the fumes from laser cutting, it doesn't appear to produce anything too detrimental to people or equipment. I've never tried cutting it myself, but I have a spare piece that I can try out. I've read that it is rather flammable if cut at too high of a power setting, but multiple passes at a lower power can remedy that.

I have less issues cutting through cardstock, mylar, & layered decals when I make multi passes with nominal change in pressure vs 1 pass with the force cranked up. What slice said - I misread the question... ooops

Most cutting software has an option to cut the same design 2 or more times,, This is mostly done for thicker materials, Too thick for the blade to cut through the first time, So you would have the cutter make 2 or more passes to cut through it.

It is usually caused because you have 1 layer of vector on top of another layer vector, So it cuts twice.., Try deleting lines from the top vector, and see if there is another vector under it.. If so then delete the top vector, Or make sure you don't have 2 passes selected in your cutting software. I don't use SCALP, but this option is in other software...

Sorry for your loss. I dread the day one of mine passes and i have to do this.

Nice write-up Icomstock I have used the USCutter sandblast mask. It works pretty good on flat surfaces and comes up easy afterword. It's fairly thick so you might have trouble cutting with some of the value cutters. I don't like to strain my expensive Summa so I just make a couple passes at a lower setting. Takes a little playing around to figure out what pressure to run for a double cut. You will need a 60deg blade to get through the thickness. It's a little tough to get small designs so for glass I just use the Green Star (GS) vinyl now. The adhesive is easier to get off than most of the Oracal vinyls and it cuts easier while still being heavy enough to handle glass work. (I don't do a whole lot of blasting but do occasional 1-off work)

If my memory is right it's the u shaped black plastic thing on the right in your picture. Above the pinch roller is a metal tab that passes through that when the head goes side to side and triggers the sensor.

Make 3 or even 4 passes..... it will eventually cut. I would suggest using 5 mil. It's easier to work with and it actually makes a better stencil as it is easier to form on uneven surfaces.

Have you tried making a couple passes?

I seem to be having the same problem... I'm working on a job with many 4 foot long passes. It does about 3 passes and then encounters an error and stops abruptly. I've got the cutter grounded to the stand by way of a screw from the bottom of the cutter connected to one of the screws in the stand. The machine is plugged into a grounded power strip. I'm really not sure where I'm going wrong and I've wasted 12 ft of vinyl on this thing so far. I also noticed that the job is stopping at the exact same spot everytime I tried running the job. Could it also be something about how I've set up my file? I'm using illustrator to vectorize a psd (psd -> illustrator -> live trace -> expand -> save as .eps (illustrator version -> open in signblazer then send it to the cutter). I'm a noob obviously, but I feel like I'm at my wits end. I've been through the forums and read the noob step by step but...urg. Any help would be much appreciated.

I physically went in person to Graphtec UK today since they're close to me. We tested the machine and it's working normally according to them. They had another unit set up and trialled the same fonts at the same sizes and it produced EXACTLY the same results as my unit... the only way I can get around having the tiny hang nails is doing 2 passes.. so that's what I'll do I think!

I just got my 6000-40 yesterday and I've found that making 2 passes with lighter force completely eliminates any of this - hope this helps! edit* probably worth mentioning that I'm using 8 for force!

Hi All, I have a new CE6000-40 and I'm new to cutting. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but the bladeholder seems to slam down pretty hard on the vinyl when it starts a new cut. I've attached a video showing the behavior. Is this how it's supposed to work or is that a little aggressive? I've pasted all of my software settings below. These settings are controlled in Cutting Master 3 and synced back to the cutter over USB. On the cutter itself, I have the setting for "Initial Down Force" set to 1 (the lowest setting). I don't see an equivalent setting on the computer software side. Details: Here's are the details of my equipment and settings: Graphtec CE6000-40 Cutter Blade: Graphtec CB09U-K60 (60º, 0.9mm) Condition: Blade: Graphtec CB09U-K60 (60º, 0.9mm) Offset: 0 Speed: 1 cm/s Acceleration: 0 Cut Force: 10 Passes: 1 Tangential Mode: Off Tool Setting: Step Pass: 0 Offset Force: 2 Offset Angle: 0 Initial Blade Position: 2mm Below When Tool is Up: Speed: Auto Advanced: Move Step: 0.1mm Step Size: 0.010mm force.mov

It may work now, but for how long? Keep in mind the MH does not have the gram force (350) as a cutter, that is recommended for the job, so you are putting more strain on the MH cutter, than say a Graphtec FC8600, which would have no problem at (600) All vinyl cutters will have their limitations, and each one is slightly different. UScutter is not going to advertise it will, when it may not work for the next person...Because it is not guaranteed to work with reflective. You may also have to do a couple passes,when cutting reflective. Those vinyls are quite expensive to mess up on a value cutter. Limited memory and static problems...

I am thinking it's time to retire the trusty SignBlazer Software and move on to more current software that offers stand-alone design & cut ability. SignBlaser is a great program but unfortunately no one has taken up the challenge of updating it... so as each year passes it is becoming obsolete. I don't want to "rent" a "Cloud" version of ANY program. I want the disk and want to be able to upgrade my computer without worrying about program transfer problems. So, what would be your advice? I already have & use for every day graphics: SignBlazer CorelDraw 7 Adobe Creative Suite 6 which includes Illustrator Good and BAD points of the software are welcome. Of course, price will be a consideration also... but not the uppermost priority. Thanks in advance for any input. Sue2

No problem. I'll be happy to ship you everything 100% free. All you have to do is pay for shipping and handling which happens to come to about $5000. My cutting bed is 11.8"x19.5". The normal max thickness is about 1/4". I could cut thicker with a few extra passes but it's not really recommended. I'm limited by my 40W tube. At some point in the future i'll upgrade the tube and power supply to a 60W or 80W system.

Or if that bill passes that Skarkrow linked you could mirror them and call them a derivative art form. LOL

I think this falls into that category of something developed by the laziest people on the planet. dcbevins, I'm out of likes for the day or I'd have liked your comment about the 12 yr olds. My brother-in-law went to China to build a project and was telling me that he watched a road crew spend a week with a whole host of laborers leveling out gravel by hand and wheel barrels. They had a road grader setting at the end of the street the whole time and only started it up at the very end to make a few final passes over it. Evidently the labor is far cheaper than the fuel and wear on the machine. This video is the direct opposite of that. Ha ha!

16x20 is nice but it will be much bigger than you need for 75% of things. I got by with a 15" for several years just fine. I don't know if you have ever put a 14 or 15" graphic on a shirt but it's much larger than you would think. Most of the shirts I make are more in the 11 to 12" wide areas and some only 9 or 10" wide. With HTV you can press in two passes if it's bigger than your press too. I guess what I'm saying is if your trying to stay on a budget anyway then 15" is very serviceable. I would start there and then when you get ready to upgrade to a higher end press step up the size as well. I have a fashion and change platens often stepping down to my 11x15" for smaller shirts and even the front of hoodies. If you can find on you like get a swing out. They are more versatile. You may want to get a pressing pillow too as it will help you deal with collars and seams. This will be critical if you go to the 16x20". Anytime you have a neck collar or thick sewn seam up on the platen it can hold the upper platen off the rest of the shirt enough to cause problems.

Are you talking about the flat ones to press on? That sucks, because over here, you can buy them for $1 or they give it away (lot of them do for fundraisers and stuff). My kayaking club, it's pretty cool and someone makes it for free (he HAS a full-time job doing something else), so he passes them out for free. Tough to compete with that !!!

Might be a simple question, but. I'm using sure cuts 3 and whenever I import an svg from Illustrator it will almost always cut the image twice (on top of another). I can use trace image in sure cuts a lot and it's fine, but any time I import an svg it's doing it twice, it's driving me nuts. I've been using the pen tool to try and trouble shoot. I like importing an svg because I like to tweek the image in Illustrator. I've attached two pictures and they might me hard to tell, but you can notice the svg import (bottom) is much darker since it did two passes.

I don't know if anyone else has cut the glow vinyl, but I did a couple years ago. Very difficult. The stuff was many time thicker and tougher than any other vinyl I have cut, had trouble tracking in the cutter and really neede two passes. Luckily I was only doing a circle of it. Also don't know if they're making it thinner now, but thought I would mention my troubles with it...