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Found 388 results

  1. JessXEmoji

    Cutter Tracking Help

    I've been practicing cutting large vinyl designs thats 20" W and 120" Long. However my SC Cutter will not keep the vinyl straight. After a few passes from front to rear the vinyl moves over about and inch. I've tried adjusting the rollers etc...And it'll stay straight for one pass but SCAL likes to cut from front to rear and those extra passes aren't helping me out. Is there any tricks I can do for such large designs on the cutter? And is there a cutting software that cuts just from front to rear and not back and forth? thanks.
  2. MZ SKEETER

    Mylar .5mm cutter settings for CE6000-40

    There are not any settings for any vinyl or Mylar, First you have to set the blade depth correctly which has been posted hundreds of times on here by me. That will get your force correct. Also you could try 2 or 3 passes in the cutting software.
  3. MZ SKEETER

    Speed/Force consensus

    There is no typical settings. Each cutter is different, even the same model. You have to fine tune each cutter, Value cutters may have to be fine tuned each time you cut. The higher end cutters, pretty much set and forget, unless you are changing to different thickness of vinyl. You may to make several passes on some of those vinyls like glitter. I hear it's pretty hard to cut. The force is set by the blade depth. You must get the blade depth correct first, for each different vinyl you use. Then you set the force to make it cut correctly.
  4. I just got my SC2 last night, watched a few videos, thought I had everthing set up correctly, but now I'm not sure, so here come the questions... I decided to use the pen tool and I had heard that on blades, they just need to barely stick out so I adjusted the pen to stick out just a little too. 1. For the pen tool, is this too much or too little sticking out? The back end of the pen hits the little ridge by the control panel when it passes by it. 2. Is the pen too high here? I did a test cut and I'm getting these little "lead ins" which I would understand why I'm getting them if I was using a blade and not a pen. It's possible I had this set to "blade" not "pen tool" by mistake though. 3. So did I have a setting wrong here or is this normal? You can see the little start marks on the "C" and the "t" here: Then I decided to try importing from Corel. 4. Are these settings good: Importing from Corel was easy and the design cut, but there were some gaps between the start and end, and also some of the letters weren't drawn correctly. You can see the difference between the "w" on these two pics, and you can see the gaps in here as well: 5. What settings do I have wrong here?
  5. MZ SKEETER

    Titan 28" Not Cutting Properly

    Make 2 passes, even 3 if you need to. Put the force back.
  6. SeeJaysPlace

    Sandblasting wood - Which mask?

    I have 2 .09 blade holders one has a crappy 45blade in it and the other one has a clean cut blade in it! One i only use for HTV, 631 and 651 - stock blade that came with the machine The other one i use is for Htv Glitter, Sandblast stencil, and Cricut Crafting Crap for my mother! - my clean cut blade! I should of done 2 passes but i didn't i only did 1 at the time but i used the 31 of force and speed of like 8 or 10 not very fast! It would of came out better if i would of done 2 passes for sure so i did the 1 pass and pealed it off and put it on the granite, and then i weeded out the letters once it was on the granite! I will show more images later tonight when i go and get it sandblasted! I'm kinda exited actually 4pm can't come soon enough
  7. dcbevins

    Big Squeegee Tools

    Thanks for the input. Are you using something like this pshawny? http://www.uscutter.com/APPRoller-Tape-Application-Roller I generally have smaller roles of transfer tape than the size I am using so I end up making two passes. Will a BS be useful when my tape isn't as wide as the graphic and I have to do multiple passes or should I just start getting bigger tape? I am tending toward the Big Squeegee Cut Vinyl/Tape Applicator Tool, 32", but the 18" Rivet/Dent tool looks like it would be easier to wield for smaller things. Would both be redundant?
  8. phil lancaster

    original ct 630 driver disc lost

    Hi i am using signblazer elemements on the com port in device manager and the baud rate is 9600 the baud rate in the keyspan assistant i am lead to believe is the test speed as when i reduce it to 9600and test it passes but it reverts back to the higher value after testing phil
  9. phil lancaster

    original ct 630 driver disc lost

    hi the cutter is stating that it is online in the display and the test speed can be lowered to 9600 i have tested it in both and it passes the test
  10. Jburns

    Western Belt Buckle

    Hi Karl, I actually own the same machine. Practice on some blank plastic plates first. 1. Turn on the machine and set the origin. 2. Type you text , and outlines by keycode, and thru F7 or F8 page until it shows Fit text, or something like that. Set your text by height or by width. 3. Set engraving passes speed and pressure to appropriate settings depending on the metal. Most of this is found in the user manual - do you have a copy? I have PDF if you want to send me a PM with your email.
  11. So I've had an MH series cutter for a few years now, have printed thousands of decals from it. I had the opportunity to get a good deal on a used SC...and larger. (50 vs 30). Well, THOUGHT it was a good deal. I got it and found out it was NOT the SC2 that I thought, rather an older SC. SO i have a few questions, and i tend to talk too much so, apologize when this gets wordy....bare with me! 1. First off, am I better off sticking with my MH 871 mk2 than the SC ?? The MH I notice goes much lower in speed and different increments, compared to 100/200/300 etc on the SC.. is the SC a better machine still even if older? 2 Secondly I did some tests.. I'm getting a lot of jagged lines on just like a letter A for example. I did a square test and corners are good, I dont think the offset has anything to do with it, tried 25 and 30 and didnt notice a difference. I put in a new 45* blade. I usually ran my MH speed around 160. I turned on this SC and saw the speed was set at 600, holy crap! Looking online it seems common people run them 300-400 or higher no problem. I turned my speed down to 100 and the lines come out FINE. 200 they come out 90% but almost look a little fuzzy. 300 and they are starting to get pretty obviously wavy. What is causing this wavyness? I played around with blade height, I felt like it was too far out. Its barley visible and passes the "cut a piece by hand" test.. but again i see post of people running pressure 40 or much less. that barley cuts for me. i had to set pressure up to like 160, and it seems to weed fine, barley leaving marks on the backing. but why the need for so high? should i poke the blade out more and decrease pressure or is it "whatever works" kinda combination? Im just concerned for small stuff, and also want to make sure i didnt get a broken/worn out unit. 3. i read about jagged edges maybe being caused by needing an adjustment of the belt tension, is there a way to test that? this thing is used but i dont think it has too many cuts ran through it. im really interested in being able to get those 300-400 speeds, compared to running at 160 on the MH that will be super nice to get things moved through a little quicker.... but not at the price of horrible cuts. Its 100% not my design, ive cut hundreds of them. but clearly im missing a magic combo of settings / blade height or that belt is loose or something. anyone got any ideas on how i can get it dialed in? ive searched allover and watched the setup video... throwing in the towel, help! Thank you!!!!!
  12. MadHatterGraphix

    Another sad day for me

    That is an understatement. Jan Mom loses half her foot Feb Mom has heart attack makes it through April Trouble one of the family cats passed away May 19 dad gets hip replaced May 25 Mom passes away July 22 uncle passes away Do I get a no problems for the rest of the year pass?
  13. mxracer394

    Quick bubbles question

    I have always had trouble with racecar decals having bubbles. Most have always been multi layered but the other day I did a simple single lay decal and it had bubbles. I don't apply them wet seems to turn out worse for me. I use mostly greenstar vinyl and app tape. Majority of the time I have to use two passes of app tape due to buying 12" tape and doing 21x33" numbers. Is haveing to make two passes with the app tape cause the bubbles?
  14. Wildgoose

    Is the MH machines worth it?

    You have and will undoubtably get a lot of opinions on this or that cutter. I think the general consensus though tends to say "Buy the best cutter you can afford". Even though this forum is supported by USCutter almost everyone on here is a normal Jane or Joe and not employee's so we can offer real opinions and generally recommend buying at least the SC and like mentioned the new SC2 is probably worth the little extra. If you are going to splurge at all do it in the cutter. All the peripherals are mostly consumables that you can grab any old time. I can say with authority this is probably one of the funnest hobbies out there and can turn into a business if you want it to. If you don't then still get a good cutter, you will be less frustrated during the learning stages. I will never NOT have a cutter after having one. There are so many uses and fun things to do and give out etc... It's addictive and a blast. There are a decent amount that won't take the effort to learn, and you can bet your butt that you will have some frustration at first but it soon passes and you get the hang of it. It ain't rocket science but it does require a few skills that are not the norm.
  15. I have VinylMaster Cut v4.0, and can't find how to make the segments of a circle, say, into one continuous line. I'm trying to cut stencils for airbrushing, out of thick plastic sheets. I know I should make several passes, and I have the pressure as high as it'll go. But the shape is being cut in segments, not as one continuous line, so the three segments of the circle, for example, are not exactly meeting where one stops and the next one begins. So when I punch out the cut shape, in order to end up with a negative shape (stencil), there are little nubs where the segments meet. I'd rather the shape cut out in one continuous line, so I don't have to smooth or file down the little nubs. I've already started a help ticket, and didn't get any help at all from the people who sold me the software along with my USCutter. TIA for any help you can offer!
  16. darcshadow

    Connecting Segments

    Ok, so the egg has three segments when cutting the plastic, it does the same when cutting Vinyl? That sounds like a design issue. If the egg is designed as one continuous line it should cut that way. Post the egg vector and we'll take a look at it. The fact that it cuts the vinyl just fine in one pass and the plastic takes 4 passes and doesn't cut perfect would be a tracking issue for the plastic. But if we can get it to at least do the whole egg in a continuous segment that would help.
  17. I have cut a few sets, I used a cricut cutting mat and did two slow passes on each piece and they came out good. I got my material from a gun show a few years back, but you can buy a 5" x 7" piece from Talon for $10
  18. MZ SKEETER

    Graphtec CE6000 Trapping Film

    what does that mean "trapping the film"? Please explain. How did you set your blade depth? If the vinyl is too thick, try making 2 passes instead of 1 pass. You don't state what type of vinyl your trying to cut, but maybe you purchased the wrong machine.. The Graphtec FC has a lot more down force than the CE6000.
  19. MZ SKEETER

    Help cutting 3M 1080

    which cutter are you using? Try 2 passes. instead of 1 ?..Although I have never cut it..
  20. Wildgoose

    What can an MH871 cut?

    Well, hate to say it but they don't call them a paper and acetate cutter. That being said you can usually cut some other materials if you get set right. I have never tried to cut acetate and have no idea how hard that is. Does it have a carrier sheet? Because anything you cut will need to have a carrier sheet behind it. The paper and yardstick usually just needs to be stuck onto a piece of clear app tape or buy a circuit cutting mat or something and usually you can cut it. Some materials are much hardier than vinyl and so the pressure needed will be a lot higher. Sometimes you might need to make two passes to get through and at that point you will suffer with the inaccuracy of the MH because it may not be able to follow the same path both times. Keep in mind that the cutter blades are extremely sharp but also very fragile and it doesn't take much to ruin a tip and then they won't cut anything well. I personally avoid those type of things mist of the time and when I do cut them I have a few older used blades that still were working when I changed them that I save to use in that environment.
  21. What's the difference between Oralite 5500 and 5600? What do you guys use? Do you have any tips or tricks for cutting reflective vinyl? I've been cutting on some Oralite 5500 and it's a huge pain. I've adjusted the blade and pressure but I'm still having to make 2 passes to be able to weed it. I'm also getting some lift in the corners. I've moved the blade in very VERY slightly (Talking 2-3* turn) and it doesn't cut all the way through. I've upped the pressure and it still doesn't help, I'm even doing 2 passes. Just wanted to see if anyone has any advice to provide a good easy weeding cut without lifting the corners. BTW I'm using a MH-871
  22. MZ SKEETER

    CUTTING V98 REFLECTIVE

    Maybe try 2 passes instead of just 1 pass.
  23. Our little niche is strictly reflective decals. I've been playing around the past 2 days on settings with just the 45° blade. I can cut 5 mil 5500 in one pass at 450g downforce at a speed of 200. The laminated and printed stuff is quite the challenge but at 375g and two passes at a speed of 300 rocks the cut pretty good. I'll get this batch cut and then switch over to the 60 as some of the intricate details are not quite as clean as I'd like...really good but just not quite where I want them!
  24. Ironbar

    Cut Studio

    kayhold, The picture you show is CutStudio. I just bought a new Roland it only came with CutStudio. No SignCut for me. They just upgraded it to 3.0 which is a little better but not much. I can deal with most of its quirks except I have to separate out the colors before I send to CutStudio because it won't import them. Lame. What really does not make sense to me is: In CutStudio you can manually change the colors and then cut what you want. I don't get it. I don't know why Roland does not give VeraWorks with all of their products. With CutStudio you can't even do perforated cuts without doing two passes but you can with VeraWorks.
  25. I always cut two passes when cutting Flock,just to make sure no lil fiber hang tag is present,