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Found 388 results

  1. Dakotagrafx

    Lxi issue.

    sounds like you have 2 issues than - too much blade exposure (the reason it is cutting thru) and multiple copies of the image on top of each other (guessing you are tracing them) other option on multiple passes is in version 12 in production manager on the third tab you can select how many passes it will cut on the same image for ultra thick material
  2. MZ SKEETER

    CUTTING V98 REFLECTIVE

    Maybe try 2 passes instead of just 1 pass.
  3. Tenfour86

    Looking for a laser cutter option

    I have a Full Spectrum Laser, 45 watt, Gen 5 unit (now marketed as an H-Series laser) that I have been pretty happy with. I chose it because it was relatively comparable to similar sized units offered by Epilog, Trotec, and Universal Laser, but way more affordable for me with a price tag of $3,000 at the time. Unfortunately, I'm unfamiliar with the eBay units. Most of them seemed to have pretty small engraving areas and I couldn't find much information on control software for them when I was looking to buy, which is ultimately what convinced me to buy from a brick and mortar company. I can offer some insight from my experience though. 40 watts is a good starting point, but you'll soon realize more power would be helpful. Definitely go with a higher wattage if you can, and you won't be disappointed. I won't say that wattage doesn't matter as much when engraving, but it really makes a difference when cutting. At 45 watts it's still a challenge for me to get through 1/4 ply (which is closer to 3/16 really) or 8 oz. leather even with multiple passes. The fewer passes you have to make, and the faster you can make them, the cleaner your cuts will be. My first pass when cutting is generally very clean, but subsequent passes will begin to char or deposit smoke. Equally as important as wattage is the usable engraving area of the machine. 20x12 works for most of my small projects, but as a nice perk, the bottom of my machine is removable which allows it to be lifted up or set on top of large objects that don't fit inside. Also consider height of the machine too since you're looking to fit a rotary attachment in there. The rotary attachment plus the object on top of it take up vertical space, and you still need some to spare in order to focus your lens. I’m not sure I could get a rotary attachment and drinking glass into my machine and still have room to focus without first removing the bottom and raising it up. FSL even started producing an extension box because of this. I can't comment much on laser control software as I've only used retinaengrave, so hopefully others on here can speak about the software other machines use. As an aside, my laser will certainly engrave glass, but I've found that sandblasting will produce a much more opaque and deeper etch than my laser can. You can get more detail with a laser though, so it's a tradeoff either way.
  4. Our little niche is strictly reflective decals. I've been playing around the past 2 days on settings with just the 45° blade. I can cut 5 mil 5500 in one pass at 450g downforce at a speed of 200. The laminated and printed stuff is quite the challenge but at 375g and two passes at a speed of 300 rocks the cut pretty good. I'll get this batch cut and then switch over to the 60 as some of the intricate details are not quite as clean as I'd like...really good but just not quite where I want them!
  5. Ironbar

    Cut Studio

    kayhold, The picture you show is CutStudio. I just bought a new Roland it only came with CutStudio. No SignCut for me. They just upgraded it to 3.0 which is a little better but not much. I can deal with most of its quirks except I have to separate out the colors before I send to CutStudio because it won't import them. Lame. What really does not make sense to me is: In CutStudio you can manually change the colors and then cut what you want. I don't get it. I don't know why Roland does not give VeraWorks with all of their products. With CutStudio you can't even do perforated cuts without doing two passes but you can with VeraWorks.
  6. I always cut two passes when cutting Flock,just to make sure no lil fiber hang tag is present,
  7. I don't have a LP11, but doesn't your cutter have a TEST option on it? Most all cutters do. As far as the flock.. have you tried to cut 2 or 3 passes , instead of 1 very deep one? ... I have read several times, that people do that with flock and other thick materials.
  8. I'm sure flexi will have multiple pass options somewhere. I use SignCut Pro and just set it at two passes. It took a few test cuts on scrap to figure out the sweet spot on pressure. The other little thing I would caution you on is the claimed down force is 750 but Chinese workmanship is notorious for being less accurate so I would wonder of that is actually up to par as compared to an FC machine. Even the True tangential Summa cutters only put out 600g force and they will chomp through some thick stuff. I am not knocking the Chinese but I tend to doubt the claim.
  9. Two passes at a lighter setting is what I do when I find a situation like that.
  10. mfatty500

    VINYL GLITTER CUTTING SEETINGS

    I don't use that brand of plotter, but a good sharp 60* degree blade would be where I would start with, you'll have to experiment until you find that sweet spot. What brand of glitter vinyl are you using? Sometimes you may have to make 2 passes, let the machine do the work, not the blade, (as in to much exposed) I have cut thousands of yards of the stuff with very little troubles, other than dull or bad blades.
  11. Hello, I am having extreme problems registering a contour cut on Printable Glitter Heat Transfer Material on out Titan3 ARMS Plotter. It seems that the plotter will not recognize the printed registration marks possibly because of the reflective qualities of the material. It passes the registration marks up and starts looking along the edge of the material or refuses look go find them at all. Has anyone had this problem? I have found a work around but it involves a lengthy process of adhering white calendar vinyl onto the glitter material and then printing, then cutting. Too much time. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance. Charlie
  12. signyouup

    New from Southern California with questions too

    For cutting the Mylar on your machine you could try using multiple passes on the cuts.
  13. storm2313

    Any suggestions when cutting polypropylene?

    The substrate has a clear backing layer. I've cut it in one pass with ease, but I do notice a very slight dimpling in the material where the cut line is. I didn't know if this was normal, and decided to ask for some advice. How do I set up the CE-6000 for two passes with lower pressure. I'm using VM PRO. Thank you for your assistance.
  14. Wildgoose

    Any suggestions when cutting polypropylene?

    You are just going to have to work into it with test cuts. If you end up way up in pressure you might find that 2 passes at a lower pressure will get better results than one high. When I cut stencil material I use clear backing from regular performance vinyl most of the time and I keep a small piece after the job and leave my cutting force and speed written on it with a sharpie so I don't have to go through that every time. 6 mil is pretty thin so I would think one pass will work. Does your product have a carrier sheet?
  15. Cosmo Kid

    help cutting reflective vinyl with the titan 3

    It's the 3m hi intensity prismatic 3931. I have tried all different blade depths and pressure along with multiple passes. it will cut throw the material but will not cut throw the sticky layer. I really hope I don't have to manually cut it.
  16. So, It is still not working. I'm using a US Cutter laserpoint2 with iMac El Capitan 10.11.3, A USB serial adapter FTDI chip based. Nothing came with a manual, It's not connected via bluetooth. I have tried everything that the people at signcut have said and US Cutter is impossible for me to get in contact with... Every time I open a ticket with them they just close it (GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE...NOT) If I tell it to make one pass it leaves out alot of pieces, If i tell it to make 2 passes it seems to do a little bit better, but will still randomly decides to not cut out random pieces. the weeding frame hasn't worked one time since I've started trying... I know that I have the depth of the blade setup correctly. I'm thinking about just returning the whole thing. This has been more of a headache than anything and it won't cut anything consistantly. I've worked at sign shops for quite some time and know how to make those cutters work, but this is just not working... If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know because I would really like for this to work properly. If I don't get this resolved in the next couple days I am definitely sending this back and never dealing with US cutter again. I don't know if it's the cutter, the connection between the plotter and computer, or the software and the lack of information anywhere online hasn't helped at all.
  17. When I turn ON the "Use weeding frame" it does NOT cut the weeding frame correctly. If I turn OFF "use weeding frame" and draw a box in illy it finishes the cut around everything. If I tell it to only make one pass it leaves spaces in the design randomly EVERY time. If I tell it to make 2 passes it cuts everything out. Someone from Us cutter told me this: "What profile are you using within signcut? I would recommend trying the manufacturer of "liyu" and the model of "SC 631" and then try another design on some scrap material." Which didn't make a difference. I shouldn't be having this many problems with something so simple. I only drew the red box around my file (jpeg) to show you exactly how it is cutting the "Weeding frame" every time. I'm saving as illustrator 8 (Even though I'm not so sure if it has made any difference at all.) I'm pretty disappointed in the US Cutter support, the fact that I received no instructions at all, not enough screws, the fact that it's pretty impossible to find any consistent instructions online, etc.. I really wasn't wanting to spend DAYS trying to do something so simple. So if anyone could please help me with this issue I would really appreciate it. I've attached everything I can think of so hopefully that will help. I also really appreciate every one's help. I really don't want to give up on this, but also don't want to spend another week wasting vinyl and having to do "work-arounds" for EVERYTHING. mind-gears.ai
  18. After trying another cut, it left out spaces again. So i guess that I have to make it make 2 passes... which doesn't seem like it should be necessary....
  19. Ok, so I am getting it to cut simple shapes correctly now. I'm not sure if it was saving as an .AI 8 file or because I told it to make 2 passes instead of one. BUT it is still not completing the weed box around my shapes. It does it EXACTLY the same cut every time I cut something and looks like in the photo attached. The red line always starts on the bottom right, goes counter clockwise and stops a little passed the bottom left corner. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  20. Dakotagrafx

    What should I look for before buying a used printer?

    first thing is make sure the dx2 print heads you are looking at are made for solvent- the ones that aren't won't last long before the solvent ink eats the manifold and possibly other parts. if it had sat for even a couple of months you would be replacing all the print heads - the solvent printers don't like to sit unused for even a few days. other replacement parts that will be a must at this point after sitting is cap tops and dampers for sure, wipers, wiper scraper and probably the ink tubes if it was not flushed. I would make sure you see it go thru the motions to print and budget about $1500-$2K to get it going - again with sitting that long the pump is probably going to have to be replaced too - the older style pumps are around but make sure you get the right one. Most of the used solvents you find for sale either have a problem or need the print heads replaced and the person doesn't have the experience or money to replace them - the reason they put them up for sale. if looking at any printer make sure you see a NOZZLE test print and it is near perfect - any deflection or missing nozzles will indicate a need to replace the heads as finer detail will not be crisp. Generally the cheapest you will find a decent used unit that still needs some stuff to bring it up to spec is more in the range of $4500-5000 and most of those need at least one head the first picture below shows one I would work with - it has a minor deflection in the black where the 2 passes meet - the second one shows a unit I would replace both print heads on that sat for a while according to the person. the problem with one that doesn't print at all is you don't know if the person tried to replaced the heads themselves and fried a $2K board by not doing it right (usually not removing main power thinking that turning the unit off is enough) as far as those machines that claim to clean solvent print heads - I have NEVER seen a print head recovered in any way that would be acceptable to me for my work output and are a waste of time - I personally believe there is no bringing back a head after nozzles are lost to an acceptable level unless you are printing billboards that are far from the observer. for someone that doesn't print every other day I would look at the latex printers (around $10K I believe) as they are very forgiving about sitting - but they will require a special electric service so plan a little extra for the electrician
  21. Dakotagrafx

    Vehicle Signage Do's and Don't

    any vehicle signage should be readable as it passes and intersection - which is a couple of seconds - too many new people try to get to fancy and lose the reason for the signage - to get a message across in a short amount of time
  22. Man, I just wrapped up some MX decals for a family members company. I bought some 6 mil vinyl along with 12 Mil Heavy duty gloss laminate for MX , ssnow mobiles, etc. I had to contour cut - 60 deg. blade- Tangental mode-- almost highest force setting on the GS15 vinyl cutter- took three passes. Total is 18 mil THICK.- a credit card is about 20 mil I think. Turned out very clean for 3 passes Pics:
  23. Wildgoose

    Making Stencils

    You're going to want to have some sort of backing on whatever you choose to use. Clear app tape will work as a carrier. I have a cricut cutting mat I bought at wallyworld that I sometimes use. It's stiff which can be good in some situations but it's a bit too tacky when new. Gets better after a few uses. For stencil material I have been using the backing off some of the clear backed vinyl like Gerber 225 or Oracal frosted glass vinyl. Obviously you have to have some of this on hand to make use of but next time you order some frosted glass save the backing and it works pretty good for stencils. I too concur it's usually better to make a couple passes rather than trying to hog though in one shot. I start by drawing a small square and test cutting it twice at a given pressure then move over and try again until it gets to the right pressure point. I usually get the to the point that they are mostly still hanging and then just pop them out like a store bought die cut.
  24. You say it's getting off on a 5 inch cut? Did you mean 5 foot? When you say it's not meeting does it look like it would have but came up short or that it is out of alignment and missed the mark? Something you might try just for kicks is a couple lighter passes at 110g or something like that to see if it will change anything for you. If it does change then you are assured you are dealing with it getting pulled out of alignment. 12mil is reasonably thick vinyl and you may be at the limit of a standard 45 deg blade and fighting that too, a 60 deg might be a good idea. Don't know what blades you are using but you might try a Clean Cut blade. Much higher quality than most of the cheaper ones and will definitely decrease the cutting force.
  25. Primal Decals

    Can another category name be added to the site?

    oh ok.... wow good to know but even tho anyone can go to their site and get them we still cant share the site? but can we still have a "Share your vector file as long as it passes as legal to do so?