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Found 388 results

  1. How does multiple passes work exactly? Does the solenoid somehow increase the depth on each subsequent pass? Otherwise, I don't understand how this works. I will gladly try multiple passes if you can explain how the feature works. The magnet material is loaded into the plotter with the 3M kraft paper (adhesive liner) facing up due to the way the magnet material is rolled.
  2. trying to cut the very thick material in one pass causes more drag than if done in multiple passes - that causes slippage. I too never subjected any of my plotters to cutting 30 mil magnets - for rectangles I used straight edge and a corner rounding tool.
  3. I am not understanding how the amount of passes would correct the dimensions and the non square cuts that I am trying to solve? Can you enlighten me? Thank you so much for helping!
  4. I have never cut magnet, but I have read that most people who cut thick materials are cutting with 2-3 passes. Are you doing that? Or just trying to cut with 1 deep pass?
  5. The lower end cutters tend to drift because they just don't track as well. How are you cutting it twice? - are you sending it to the cutter twice, or do you have the design layered in your software? When I have to make multiple passes, I always layer and send it to the cutter once. I got much better results from my LP that way.
  6. Hello, I have been cutting vinyl and HTV with no problem but then here comes the cardstock, making look like I don't know what I'm doing. Ha. I am trying to cut out invitations and cupcake toppers with my MH-871 and I am unsure of the settings I need to use. I have a cutting mat for it and I installed the 60 degree blade, but I am having trouble getting it to cut all the way through without two passes and for some reason it is shifting just a tiny bit and making it to where there are two cuts instead of just going through the same path twice. Help please!
  7. mihaidimitras

    help cutting reflective vinyl with the titan 3

    Hi i have the same Titan 3 and the same material 3m 3931 for me the setting that works is pressure 650- 675 and a 60 deg blade. Instead using a lot of material just use a piece and the test button until you get a perfect cut and the depth that you need and go from there . The second option would be to cut twice( 2 passes on the same path) .
  8. MZ SKEETER

    LP3 Suction

    Vinyl cutters/Plotters use the same basic functions and have for many years, Some with just more bells and whistles. Depending on which company made it, as to what they put on their button controls. Control panel. My Graphtec says Force. Or even in the cutting software, what they call it. Pressure/Force is the same thing. When someone asks about either one for their settings, we know what they are talking about. I might be wrong, but I think this last version LP3 cutters were introduced in 2018. Several different Laser Pointer models in the past. By the way, how did you set your blade depth. ? Reason I ask, is because UScutter, keeps posting videos with the wrong way to do it, and it is too much blade depth exposed. Blade depth is the first thing that you start with and it has to be correct from the git go, or the rest of your settings will not be correct. Tip: Never be pulling from the roll while cutting, Always have enough vinyl slack to do the order. My cutter has a prefeed, It helps with tracking and pulling the vinyl to give it the slack it needs. Buyers guide says this on reflective and your cutter. But buyers have tried different materials with their cutters. Some use 2 passes while cutting thicker materials. NOT for use on laminate sandblast mask reflective window tint https://www.uscutter.com/index/page/static/subpage/buying_guides_new Your welcome
  9. Intheshaw

    Mele Kalikimaka!

    Dakota, you ever figure out about the passes? I'll be in Maui in a couple of days, figured it was just the $25 fee like always. Only restrictions I'm seeing in the 1.50 reservation fee for a sunrise.
  10. Wildgoose

    cutting mylar

    5 MM is something like 200 mil. I doubt it's THAT thick. More likely 5 or 6 mil which is .005 or .006 inches (around 0.15 mm) If it's 5 mm you aren't going to be cutting it with a regular cutter. Assuming it's not too thick to cut through. Stick it to your mew mat and start some test cuts. You may find that two or even three passes is necessary. I have some stuff I had to do two passes or one nearly maxed out pass and I liked the two passes better because it wasn't dragging so hard on the plastic which caused more weird deflection during the cut. It's a PIA to figure out what pressure to use for a two pass cut and I just dedicated a scrap to mess with and kept slowly increasing the pressure until I got it where I liked it. With a cutting mat you don't have to worry about cutting through.
  11. darcshadow

    Cutting Plastic

    I would say no as well, not sure the blade would even be big enough and if it is, it would not be able to do the pressure required to cut something that thick. It might be possible if you do 2 or 3 passes, but I would not count on the accuracy of the MH to be consistent enough to exactly trace the same path.
  12. haumana

    Hi Everyone!

    I strictly use 60*, however, I also cut 651 95% of the time. If I'm finding something tough to cut, I would rather do 2-passes using a 60*, than blade swapping. I do not want the hassle of having to adjusting blade depths unless I really, really, really have to ... like when I need to take the holder apart to clean it up and de-gunk whatever bits of vinyl might have gotten stuck in there.
  13. ShaneGreen

    Noob Questions

    White is my nemesis. No matter what brand I try it takes more pressure and just doesn't leave as nice a cut as the other colors. I've noticed I can cut a 24" x 60" red or black 3M reflective in two passes and it's a nice clean edge. Cut the same design in white reflective and there is so much drag that the 1st and 2nd cut don't always line up...frustrating. As for the Greenstar, I bought a bunch with my cutter for practice. Didn't care how much I wasted or gave away at the price. It was a great learning experience, because once I got good at cutting and weeding it I switched to 651 and it was night and day different. The 651 cuts, weeds and lays so much nicer! Can't imagine how much time and headache I would have saved myself if I'd just started with 651 and a CleanCut blade....but think of all the lessons I wouldn't have learned.
  14. That stuff is 7 mil and really tough on blades. I don't know how you could ever forecast a blade problem. I would make sure your prices are high enough to cover an occasional issue because it's going to happen again. I bought a little lighted high magnification hand held microscope someone on the forum had suggested. Similar to this:https://www.ebay.com/p/Pocket-Microscope-Carson-MicroBrite-Plus-60x120x-Power-LED-Lighted/2254813830?iid=113506320660&chn=ps It takes some figuring out but you can actually see your blade tip and what shape it's in. That's how I figured out I actually sanded my tip off trying to cut glitter HTV in two passes.
  15. Dakotagrafx

    magnetic material (newbie question)

    people have done it - sometimes with multiple passes - personally I would never put something that thick thru my main plotter. we did have a guy a few years back that kept an old MH just for stuff like this so he didn't abuse his graphtec
  16. MZ SKEETER

    SC2 34" left side not cutting

    then try raising the force a little and see what results you get. 2 passes would be the best way.
  17. Hello Everyone, I purchased my SC2 back in September knowing full well from these forums that it was in fact a value cutter. My needs aren't that of a sign shop or even a decal shop so I thought maybe given the relative low use I planned to use this for wouldn't be a problem and the issues I've encountered to date haven't specifically been with the machine itself with the exception of setting the blade, which I have since found the instructions posted countless times here. What I'm having issues with now is the width of my stencils are ~30" and as it gets to the 26" > 30" mark(right to left) the cut begins to get less and less eventually not happening at all. Now with the help of reading through all these posts I've seen similar issues listed here Carrier off track from shipping or incorrect blade setting etc. As stated above I did initially set blade incorrectly and have since changed, set, reset multiple times following the directions of Mz Skeeter(I hope I spelled that correctly from memory) also I've checked to see if the carrier was on track and w/out completely disassembling the unit near as I can tell both wheels/rollers are in the correct channel. I'm really just looking for any assistance you guys can provide. I haven't contacted support as of yet, as I was hoping to draw on the vast knowledge of this group before going that far. Details: Windows 10 machine SC2 34" Cutting 5mil Duralar VinylMaster Cut 4.0 - I've also had it making 2 passes/cuts Individual sheets being fed Hopefully I have provided enough information Chris Also in the Setting up cutter guide it provided this link to a video on checking that carrier was on track which is unavailable. https://youtu.be/4EHPvnLYoI4
  18. haumana

    Mele Kalikimaka!

    The Fed's website says that it's $25/car. Even the Annual passes are cheaper than $180 I can't believe they have to take reservations too. It must've gotten a lot busier than it used to be.
  19. MZ SKEETER

    PRS number for LaserPoint2

    There is no set pressure/force for any vinyl cutter or vinyl. You must follow the blade depth set up instructions to set the force for any vinyl cutter and vinyl. You may even need to make 2-3 different passes on hard to cut vinyl. You have to experiment with your force using the TEST feature. Then write it down and keep it for the future. Then it will be your starting point, next time. How to set blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing., You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder.
  20. Some hard material to cut needs a couple passes instead of 1 pass. Have you tried that? Plus a sharp blade.
  21. It could possibly be the reading of these special colored ones that is causing the extra passes somehow. Just a thought.
  22. Ok, this was a really weird problem yesterday that I mentioned in another thread, but wanted to open this topic and see if anyone had an idea. Vinyl Master Pro on Win10 and Laser Point II. So I'm cutting a sign yesterday out of reflective and don't want to waste the expensive material so I fill the rest of the width with some clipart piece. There will be 4 different colors of vinyl used for the two jobs so I use "Send To Cutfile". In VM a "cutfile" is essentially a new image with a layer/page for each color of vinyl. This allows you to run a bunch of different images as one job for each color. I've used it a ton of times with no problem...until yesterday. The first issue is that within a cutfile there is a command, "cut this page." The command works fine, but doesn't give you access to the "Send To Cutter" screen, so you can't do multiple passes. I've got to run two passes to insure the reflective cuts all the way. Since "Cut This Page" won't do multiple passes you have to ignore that included feature and use the "Send To Cutter" at the top of the page. I'm wondering if this is causing part of the problem. The big issue happened when I started cutting. Everything is running along fine, doing two passes, until I get to the registration marks I'd added to the clipart. It cut each registration mark 8 times (or 4 times with 2 passes each, maybe)! Cut anything 8 times and you're going to have trouble. The registration marks lifted from the page and stuck to the blade holder to be drug around the image. The blade finally cut through the backing paper in places. - VM registration marks are a 5 piece image: 4 triangles and an octagon center. But it cut them out as two opposing triangles and then the remaining two and the octagon were one piece. Very weird. - VM states that registration marks are created once, but in a special color, rather than once per color/layer. Then when sent to the cutter, that special color is cut by default. That way you can create your own registration marks. - It did this on all three colors that had the clipart. - I verified, twice, that there were no copies of the mark hiding behind the other. - The clipart cut fine by itself, only cutting the registration marks once. I then created a new cutfile with just the clipart and it was fine. I added registration marks to another image and set it to 2 passes and it worked fine. So now I can't reproduce the problem, but it happened 3 times yesterday. This blade isn't going to hold up long if it does this again. Any ideas?
  23. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Added some foam tape under the hood that covers the track and that helped a bit, but not much room in there to add anything. Dakota, I may follow your dot matrix idea and build a partial box around it with some egg crate. Darcshadow, that's what I've done when I could, start it and leave the room but it's not always possible. And today it would have been a mess! VinylMaster decided to cut each registration mark 4 times...@2 passes each for the reflective, so a total of 8 cuts for each registration mark. Needless to say the vinyl didn't stay in place and the blade holder started dragging it around.
  24. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Has anyone ever tried adding some sound deadening material to the insides of one of these cutters? I've got an LPII and the stepper motors are loud, but usually it's cutting so fast that it's mostly a high pitched annoyance for a few minutes. Sounded like a dial-up modem on crack. But now I've started cutting a lot more Scotchlite reflective. . .at 100mm/sec and two passes. What took ten minutes now takes an hour and the slow speed and thicker material gives it a nice dawn-of-the-dead type moan. I need to cut for about 3 hours this afternoon and there is no way I can handle it with this sinus headache. So I'm thinking of lining the top cover and the inside of both side covers with some sort of adhesive foam. Has anyone tried it? Does anyone think it will help? I can't afford to upgrade for a while so I've got to do something with what I've got.
  25. haumana

    Blades that last longer than Clean Cut?

    I agree with Scoot - the blade doesn't look like it's rotating freely, or easily as it should. you should also check that there isn't gunk or random teeny pieces of vinyl in the blade holder itself - when I cut tiny stuff, my blade holder would notoriously get bits of vinyl in the blade holder. sharp edges, intricate cuts, i usually go with a 60-degree and slow the speed down a bit. if it's thick, then i much prefer multiple passes versus increasing force/pressure. be patient, it happens to the best of us every once in a while, with experience and practice you'll get to know the quirks of all this stuff.