Search the Community

Showing results for 'passes'.


Didn't find what you were looking for? Try searching for:


More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome to USCutter
    • Shop Online
    • Customer Support
    • Information For New Equipment Owners
    • Website and Company Feedback
  • Equipment Discussion & Support
    • Vinyl Cutters
    • Heat Presses
    • Competitor Cutter Help
    • Printers
    • Laminators
    • Engravers
  • USCutter Community
    • Community Rules & Announcements
    • Introductions
    • General discussion
    • Show your work
    • Instructional Contributions
    • T-Shirts and/ or Garments
    • Sublimation
    • Business Practices, Sales and Pricing, etc.
    • Mac Users Board
    • Pre-sale questions
    • Off Topic Section
  • Software Discussion & Support
    • VinylMaster CUT, LTR, PRO & DSR
    • Sure Cuts A Lot Pro
    • Signcut
    • SignBlazer
    • Flexi
    • Corel Draw
    • Adobe Illustrator
    • Inkscape
    • Other Software Programs
  • Material Discussion
    • Vinyl
    • Other Materials
  • Feedback Section
    • Criticism and Complaints about USCutter
    • USCutter Equipment Feedback or Suggestions
  • Graphic help and requests
    • General Help
    • Vectorizing
    • Graphic Requests
    • Fonts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 388 results

  1. jfought

    Oracal 5300 Reflective question

    try cutting in a couple of passes
  2. BearlyRich

    Hello new to us cutters

    Welcome... No I didn't say that, I just copied the others I'm not sure any cutter can cut magnetic sheets or rolls? I would like to but they're awfully thick. I have heard someone cut them in several passes of the blade though. Maybe someone else can add some wisdom?
  3. AshComputers

    If you wonder why the Post Office is bleeding money

    For one NUK, I disagree completely. As far as you correcting my spelling... I probably make more in a week than you do in a year. So don't try to down me period. I didn't ask for your grammar corrections and your not my fifth grade teacher. I'm from the south in the U.S. if you don't like my pronouning of words... then don't read it. I've told my view's.. (But these are MY views, not yours) So when and if (which I doubt) this new reform passes, don't say I told you so is all. My 2 cents
  4. BearlyRich

    Suggestions on taping, transfering 24x36 sign?

    That tape roller is a great idea. I never thought of PVC, mostly because I'm a wood workin type person. Now I have another option. Probably will depend on what mood I'm in at any particular moment or how I figure out the roll change on the roller... And 10 sizes of tape on-hand??? I suppose this is not a hobby for you? I did some searching earlier and found all the sizes of tape. I'll probably order a roll of 16 inch. Along with my 12 inch, there would be enough overlap on the 24" vinyl in two passes. I somehow think using 24" tape might be more difficult to work with.
  5. BearlyRich

    Suggestions on taping, transfering 24x36 sign?

    I like that idea of laying it down face up, even with the tape I never thought of that. But that wouldn't work for the stiff sign material. Maybe half the problem solved and will have to try it. The idea of using a large roll to flatten the tape as it goes sounds good too. That should also work great. 'Steam roller' type process. But a tube from an empty vinyl roll? haven't used that much yet I think I will have to get larger tape also. The 12" would only cover with 3 passes and that's a big waste of tape. Luckily I had some used tape laying around that I cut to strip down the middle where the two 12 inch sections didn't meet. Thanks for the great replies. So I'll have to make a roll holder just to try it. Have to try the tape face up and definitely try using a roller over the tape as it lays down. Then I'll have to see what size larger rolls the tape comes in. 24 inch tape seems like it would be awfully difficult to work with? Maybe two section of something like 14" Time to get an order together as I also want to try some heat transfer soon...
  6. Not sure what cutter or program your using but in the cut window there is a setting for how many passes you want the cutter to make I think it's under the advanced tab MM64
  7. NiteWalker

    Sihl 3988

    The saw I have is the hitachi C10FCE2. I got it on sale for $99 from amazon. It cuts down vinyl just fine; the sihl 3988 24"x65' is about the max I can cut with it I tried to cut my roll of Oraguard 210 36"x150' and it did cut, but I had to make a few passes rotating it inbetween. The cut came out ok, but not as smooth as a single pass cut. This is the one I'm looking at getting to replace the hitachi. ryobi is hit or miss with a lot of their tools; make sure to check up on the reviews and warranty. Also, some home depot's will let you use a harbor freight 20% off coupon; a local one near me did when I bought my ridgid drill press. If they won't accept that, go to the post office and get a change of address packet. It has a 10% off lowe's coupon that home depot will accept.
  8. Gifts United

    Re: Contour Cutting in Flexi 10 Starter with a Laserpoint

    Thank you for your fast reply. I tried what you said. I keep getting the same thing no matter what changes I make. I'm sure I'm missing something. I am using the modification. But I am using the ct-630g - The ct-630 will not work for me for what ever reason? I know I'm putting the mod in the correct places. I looked at the bottom after send. Nothing flashing. I do have the laser point manual alignment. when I click for next target. It move to the next one and passes it about a quarter inch for each target. I do each target. Then it cut's. But still way off. If I go by inches 1/8" to the right of image 1/2" above image I cant get it to move for me. Maybe I'm not doing my adjustments the correct way in the mod 09:$1016.0,-.172,-.600,0,8388807,$ I use the cutter y - x I will put the laser on edge of square. hit the home button. then move in the direction of the line that was drawn. lets say my x= -1.25 and my y= -3.42 Then I would mod like this 09:$1016.0,-2.250,-3.420,0,8388807,$ correct if it's + or 09:$1016.0,+2.50,+3.420,0,8388807,$ Correct I can only say I have made extreme changes just to get a reaction. Nothing changes . Maybe bigger changes or I'm doing it all wrong. I see most people are having success. I'm sure I'm missing something. If only the laser point driver would work. one other note. I send the untitled.job to cutter. I tried the save as Native.plt When I go to cut the .plt file. It dose allow me to adjust to contour targets. it just cut immediately. Thanks again Wait. I got something. I did realize that the distance between the cutting blade and the laser is that about that distance. If I alien with the knife. it is almost on. Only because it's hard to see. I need now to figure how to get the laser offset corrected?
  9. that would be my thought as well. i have to press down pretty damn hard with a utility knife, much harder than id imagine virtually any vinyl cutter generating that kind of downforce, and i often still have to make additional passes.
  10. Ok this is just getting confusing with these profile pics :- Think I'm going to go bury my head until the blizard passes - maybe when i come out of hiding the 4um will return to it's normal insanity
  11. Boy how quickly a year passes! This little machine saved my business!! Wow, I didn.t lnow could do so much stuff! My LP has never complained or ran into a job it couldn't handle! So far this year I've created applique decals, emblems, heat transfer vinyl, stensils for etched glass, paint stensils and signage! That $300.00 investment earned me on the high side of $10K. Thank you US Cutter, and thank you for making an affordable workhorse like the LP24.
  12. lost1

    total failure

    You want the screen to snap off the shirt as the squeegee passes. You also need a real, full size (screen print, about 70 durameter) squeegee to cover in one pass.
  13. xJoey Dubsx

    Few etches from the weekend.

    Picture frame turned plaque for my buddy's work. He works in the detail dept. which never gets any awards in the dealership... Black mug we made for his friend. Wording was done with 2 passes, and the mustache was with a third, and came out really deep. She liked it though.
  14. jonmiller

    double cut the lines - how to?

    cheerz buddy, will give it a go. the tracking is pretty accurate, i did a fairly complex design in another program and it must have been the file but it did 2-3 passes near as exact.
  15. danthedesignman

    Roland GX-24 Advance After Plot?

    I am running flexi 8.1 In cut/plot > Options there is "advance after plot" I have had that on and set to "passes:1"
  16. If it's not closing contours on a machine test with a pen, there is something else going on. I wouldn't even be messing with software until it passes a self test with a pen.
  17. I've had tremendous difficulty solving the static issue with my machine. I've ordered the memory upgrade and ensured a proper ground from the cutter to the stand. No help. Running an MH-871 with AI and SignCut on a PC with Windows XP. Here's my question in long form: In my experience over the years doing drafting and blueprinting there was always a problem with static building up on the medium (paper, vellum, etc.). When changing toner cartridges in a laser printer, I noticed a copper "brush" along the back of the machine. I'm pretty sure that is used to dissipate the static on the paper as it passes through the pinch rollers. Does this application require any active control, or is it a passive element that just goes to ground? After unsuccessfully trying to find a compatible part to achieve this, I'm thinking I may have to develop the same type of part on my own. I've had to manufacture a lot of the tools and machines I use for other types of printing, so I'm well versed in fabrication but don't want to proceed unless my theory is well placed. Here's where I'm beginning... I'm thinking of taking a length of stranded copper wire (small gauge speaker wire) cutting it into short segments to form bristles. Those bristles will be wrapped individually around a larger gauge, solid core wire (12 gauge) and once wrapped (about 10 strands per inch) and hot glued(to form a brush along the wire), attached to a stand off which, in turn, is attached to the cutter stand and finally grounded to the stand and thus grounded to the cutter. My understanding of static dissipation is that the brush does not need to be in direct contact with the vinyl, but only in close proximity (about 1/8 in.). The main idea is to pass the vinyl over the brush while loading it into the cutter. If placed correctly, even when the vinyl is back-fed by the machine, it will still be in close enough proximity to discharge static as it builds up during cutting. Sound like a good start? Need some feedback if possible. I'm starting the project this weekend.
  18. NukleoN

    Hobbyist with questions

    Make sure you're running this site in 'Compatibility Mode' in Internet Explorer, there's a bug which prevents you from typing more than a certain amount without compatibility mode. I know because I tend to write rather long posts sometimes myself. This fix applies to any Simple Machines Forum (SMF) where you experience this issue. The higher-end cutters give you some features like 'contour cutting', where you will have a laser 'eye' which can read registration marks and contour-cut your inkjet prints. This alone is a pretty powerful feature, though some have made it work on cutters without the laser. The value brand which can do this is a Laserpoint 24 or 36 from U.S. Cutter, a.k.a. the LP24/LP36. The Graphtec CE5000 can do contour cuts as well, and is even better because it will seek out these reg marks on its own (whereas the LP24 needs you to manually align the laser with the reg marks). Aside from that, in something like a Graphtec you're getting a great reputation and overall better build quality over the budget cutters, but those who own a Graphtec can expound on this much more than I can. I have the LP24 from U.S. Cutter. It's about a 600 dollar machine, but it has the larger cutting field, the laser point (which I use to do a lot of contour-cutting) and a stand (so I don't need desktop space and it holds the cutter nicely when making busy cuts). I've found that with the right settings, I can get very nice detailed cuts with the LP24 and overall I am happy with it. I would prefer the auto registration-mark alignment found in the Graphtec CE5000, but the Graphtec 24" costs 1495.00. The bigger cutting field does count for a lot, if you find yourself making big graphics or large quantities of some smaller graphic. I don't tend to make a lot of big graphics, but knowing I could is important. I have used the full width of my cutter on very big jobs where I had to cut and weed 500 decals. That width really came in handy getting the most out of 24" vinyl. I think it's probably easier to find 24"vinyl than the 12"/15" wide rolls, and I am guessing companies which stock vinyl stock the more popular sizes (24") and in more colors. This is one of the reasons I went with the 24" over smaller craft cutters. As for pressure, if you're cutting vinyl you almost never need max pressure. I generally use 110 grams for most vinyl, and 130 for thicker stuff and two passes on some contour cuts if the stuff is really thick. Consider the support as well. The U.S. Cutter products are pretty darn well supported....just look at how active this forum is. I am sure there are forums which support other cutters, but it's nice to know the company which distributes my cutter is a few clicks away.
  19. Hi there! A week or so ago, I wasted a good bit of a pack of Papilio Photo Glossy Adhesive Paper because suddenly, my contour cutting wasn't coming out right with simple oval shapes. The contour would always be about 2-3mm too low, ruining all my decals. My method is to print on the top of a piece of adhesive paper, which allows me to flip the paper around and try again in the event of a mishap, and allows two passes on one paper sheet. It's a great method, but not with this paper! After investigating my files and methods, I'm theorizing based on the data that the fault is not my method, alignment or file...it's the paper!! Here's why I think this is the case: Taking known-good files I was able to get nice contour cuts on Silver Metallic and Glow-in-the-Dark paper, also from Papilio. Nice stuff, not too thick. The Papilio Photo Glossy Adhesive Paper is VERY thick. It's almost like a thin Bristol Board, and when you weed it, it's like pulling back thin cardboard with a very thin backing sheet. This is the thickest paper by far I've ever printed/cut. Using a known-good file, I can print/cut the Papilio Photo Adhesive Paper as I normally would (near the top of the page) and the contour is always messed up, about 2-3mm lower than it should be. However, if I print in the middle and lower part of the Papilio Photo Glossy Adhesive Paper and cut it, then the contour comes out ok. My theory is that somehow, the thickness of the paper is actually messing up its own cut near the top, but cuts ok near the middle and lower part of the paper. I don't know why this is other than the flexing tension of the paper and the weight of it as it hangs out of the cutter while being cut at the top. Where near the middle, it should cut better with a balanced weight, though I can't explain why it cuts well near the bottom. I wasted nearly a whole pack last time thinking it was something amiss with my file, when it's this particular paper itself behaving oddly when being contour-cut, and only near the top of the paper with my 'save paper' method. Anyone else ever have this kind of issue with Papilio Photo Glossy Adhesive Paper? Thanks. I might take this 'known good file' and try a top print/cut again just to see what happens, but I am sure I'll get the same result I did with the 8 sheets I wasted last week. This repeatable error is what got me to try just filling the mid/lower portion. I cut the mid-lower print and sure enough it looks good, exactly as I theorized...I am just not sure why, exactly. Any feedback is welcome.
  20. NukleoN

    protecting artwork

    No, I am not comparing John to my mom directly. I am simply saying that NOT getting tickets does NOT mean you are a better (skill, observation, care) driver than someone who DOES get tickets. Yes, it might mean I get caught doing 80 on the freeway sometimes, but in L.A. almost everyone in the number 1-3 lanes on the freeway goes about 80, barring a few who are too slow (or trucks and buses) in the right lanes. This makes the freeway one giant speed trap. Of course, the slow guy driving 65 in the left lane is technically obeying the speed limit, but I guarantee you, do 65 in the fast lane on any freeway during free-flowing conditions and you will be inciting road rage and aggressive passes, high-beams, etc. FALSE. THis is the very thing in question. You can't just assume the point, it has to be proved. The only thing you can infer from someone who doesn't get tickets is that they don't get tickets. They might be older, female, in a car which blends in more (think soccer mom) or they may simply put fewer miles on their vehicles than others. If you want to compare skill, compare AT-FAULT ACCIDENTS, not just traffic infractions. We're talking skill, observation, care, etc. If Richard Petty got a ticket, he's still a better driver than most of us. Some of the best drivers in the world also probably like to drive at a good clip, and they are more likely to get tickets. I think drivers who drive too SLOW are more dangerous, because they create unwitting obstacle courses for everyone else. Also, I've gotten some tickets but I also beat most of them, which means a NOT GUILTY verdict and thus, not guilty of any infraction. Yes, but you don't know how I drive. I have zero at-fault accidents. My thing is, I like a decent flow with momentum, and slow jerks who clog the fast lanes cause lane-changes. Lane-changes attract cop attention more than people who will just sit behind some slowpoke forever, until he decides to pull his head out of his bum. Again, there are good drivers who get tickets, and some very BAD drivers who don't, because there are a multitude of ways to create traffic hazards. I would like to remind you that John is making way more claims about my character than I ever have about his. I am remind you to look at both sides.
  21. NukleoN

    clean cut blade settings

    I've discovered this too...all the vinyls are different thicknesses, especially specialty vinyl like metallics, glow in the dark, even the standard white Papilio glossy is very thick. Some of them take two contour cutting passes to get to the backing paper.
  22. MikeOswald

    Which Software program to buy/use with a used Pcut

    Thanks everyone. I can not install signblazer until I have the machine, it prompts you to plug in the USB cable during the install. The guys says he has the driver, so I should be all set when I get it home. Based on everything, I doubt it will go smoothly, it never does for some reason. I am going with SignBlazer as my primary software for cutting, if possible. For Coreldraw, won't I need some sort of Coreldriver to comminicate? I wanted to try Artcut like I said before, but I went to install Artcut on my laptop with vista for the first time. The program installs fine, but I can not comminicate with my old cutter. There is a UCB driver disc I put in, but it does not install with vista. So that looks like a dead end for. With Vista, how do I see which port I plugged with USB cable into the computer? In Artcut, it prompts you to select which Com port, I tried them all but no luck Sometimes computers just really frustrate the crap out of me. I wish I understood this stuff more. Once I get the machine (assuming it passes the quality and funcution tests) I'll keep you all posted, I am sure I will be needing more assistance, again, can't thank all of you enough.
  23. Did the cabinet company hire you? If they did, wouldn't that make them the client? Harm Normally I talk to the homeowner and then do the work for the cabinet company. Right now I do work for about 12. I tell them up front that sometimes talking to their client helps me understand what will work best and I never have an issue. This guy I do direct business with as I use him to cut my frame designs on a CNC router that he owns. Problem is that he is a friggin know it all! So I will give you this senerio, his client wants the design from the online glass etching company and I said I wasn't going to steal the design. A month passes and he comes to me and says that is what she wants so cant this one time you do it? I said no but I can design her something that may work. I supplied him with 4 designs of which my least favorite was the laundry basket. They chose the laundry basket because it was a scene and on a shorter piece of glass say 50"T x 24"W this would be ideal. This glass is 84"T with and arch and 27"W leaving it hard to layout as the proportions don't work out well. Normally I would decline the job but told him I would do it as long as he had 100% approval. The homeowner was force fed this design and she doesn't 100% like it but he will not take any other design to her. Last night I told him that I am passing on the job
  24. tlzimmerman

    gasket paper

    If anything would I would say it would be the GCC Jaguar IV (Or Zencut black...same machine) They seem to have the most downforce of anything I have looked at (600G). For comparison Most vinyl is cut at 100g or below. Many sign programs like flexi you can set it to run multiple passes on the cuts, so even if it didn't cut through the first time, you could get a real good score on it to pop it out. My refine will cut cardstock just fine, and I know gasket is multiple times thicker than cardstock but I would be interested to see if it would work. Might be hard on the cutter though, and you would go through blades pretty quick I would bet.
  25. OK, I'm having trouble with my font getting 2 passes when cutting. I believe its because I'm adding stroke to make it thicker in Illi. The font is thin in some places which makes it hard to weed. So, is there a trick to make the stroke one path so that my machine doesn't think its two objects?