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Found 388 results

  1. Without seeing the cutter file and your settings in Graphtec Studio2, would have no idea, unless you have multiple passes checked in the cutting software. Very few volunteers here answer questions and very few have a Graphtec. And I don't know of anyone who has a Ce7000 or Graphtec Studio 2. Have you tried a different cutting software to rule out the Graphtec Studio 2 as the problem? Several trials out there. File could be posted as long as it is not a violation of Copyright. Post in .eps format.
  2. I recently upgraded from a Cameo 4 Pro to the Graphtec CE7000-60. I got everything set up, my test cuts are good, it's not going through the backing paper on the vinyl and just leaving a little etching on it. I noticed that when I send my file to the plotter from Graphtec Studio 2 the plotter cuts and then it comes back and goes over the same cuts again, then again, and again. Last time I cut a file it went over the same cuts so much it went through the backing paper. It also doesn't cut the entire file. So I thought maybe it was the file and wanted to make sure it didn't have any double lines, so I created the design again in Graphtec Studio 2, again, it cut some of the file, but not all of it and then it stopped and it was ready for another job. Am I missing something? I've been through the plotter manual and the Graphtec Studio 2 manual, but I can't find anything on this. I love how fast and quiet this cutter is, but I need to be able to crank out my vinyl graphics and right now I still have to use my Cameo. Help!
  3. I'm not sure it this is an issue with the cutter, or the software, but when I rotate the cut with the "Rotate" checkbox in the spooler, I end up with many alignment issues, speed weeding passes will start IN the letter on the leading edge and not cut all the way to the next letter. narrow details will actually overlap such that the vinyl is completely removed. When cutting multiple copies side-by-side, the copies are not in alignment with each other. Starting and ending points of an enclosed shape don't line up, so that I am forced to clean up the cut manually to separate the shape during weeding. I have found that slowing the feed speed down to < 50 seems to improve the situation, but I can run >100 without issue if I don't rotate. It's behaving like the feed roller is slipping or skipping, but it only happens when cutting rotated. I always run an area test prior to cutting to ensure that vinyl is moving freely. Cutter is a MH 721-MK2. Most current version of VinylMaster Cut.
  4. I don't think you're going to find a vinyl cutting machine that can do upholstery leather. at least not easily. A high end cutter, with multiple passes, and blade adjustments might cut it, but I'm not sure how well or if it'd be worth the hassle. Sandblasting mask can be cut with most cutters, and standard vinyl can be used as a mask for most hobbyist projects. Forget DXF, it is technically a vector file, but in reality it is just a bunch of short line segments and does not play well with vinyl cutters. You'll want to use EPS, .AI, or SVG. EPS is more or less the industry standard, although SVG is slowly working it's way in.
  5. CE7000 Expanded Cutting AreaIt expands the cutting area to include objects outside of the area enclosed by registration marks. Production efficiency is enhanced by reducing media waste. Your user manual is your best friend. Search under PUSH ROLLERS, In the INDEX. You can turn the media sensor and pinch rollers off. (Push rollers. 1-4, 1-6, 1-8) (Push roller sensors.10-5 ) This info is in your Graphtec user manual which can be found on the Graphtec website. Many people use a cutting mat, so they can hold smaller vinyl. can be purchased at Walmart and hobby shops. Ebay. Also, is there a carrier sheet I can attach my "magnet sheets" to to make sure they're square? Personally I would never cut magnet sheets on my Graphtec, and my cutter has a lot more force than the CE7000. That is a lot of wear and tear on an expensive cutter. A Cricut can do it with a DEEP CUT BLADE, But that is your choice to make. Maybe possible with 2-3 passes so it isn't trying all at 1 time.
  6. Hello! We've got a job where we were die-cutting and halfway through it stopped cutting through the paper. Yesterday we tried adjusting blade depth but that didn't work. Blade looked dull so we replaced blade with a new, sharp one. It worked for a little while then stopped cutting through. Checked the new blade and it was quite dulled out. Today we tried another new blade, scaled back the blade depth and pressure, and while it took us the equivalent of 9 passes it started working again. Started up again aaaand... it stopped once more. The new blade also went down by 2 points. Not sure what's going on - we're not doing anything differently than before. We are using the CB15U blades like we've done for years. We've diecut jobs on 15 point sythentic, laminated 10 point synthetic, 130# Cover, all the way down to 67# Bristol. We've had our Graphtec for a few years and normally it's been a real champ. We've contacted service but so far haven't heard back yet.
  7. The vinyl has a 2 year shelf life from manufactured date to be applied. (All vinyl has a shelf life). The vinyl could be old vinyl. There are specs online for all vinyl. The MH may cut it with a couple passes. You can find the user manual for your Summa online. Summa is hands down a much better cutter than the MH as long as it operates correctly. Sold for much more, not hundreds like the MH. Like anything, you would have to look up what a Summa of that age and model is selling for, After checking whether it is operating correctly. Check Ebay or Craigslist. There is a couple Summa owners on here, but probably not your model.
  8. darcshadow

    MH Cutter material

    I doubt it, but if you have a cutting mat, can't hurt much to give it a try. Would likely to need to expose the blade a bit more, and do multiple passes.
  9. The Hotronix power cord for the Fusion IQ is a 14GA, 15 Amp chord. I have a 20 Amp Dedicated circuit. A 20 Amp breaker, 12 gauge wire, 20 Amp receptacle. When search online, I see this: "14/2 wire can safely be used on circuits with an amperage up to 15 amps. It is dangerous and illegal to use 14/2 wire on a 20-amp circuit. " and "14AWG wire carries a maximum of 15 amps. If a load draws more than 15 amps on a 15A circuit, the breaker will trip, protecting the 14AWG wire. But if the circuit is 20A, the breaker won’t trip even when the current exceeds 15A. A 20A circuit breaker trips when the current passes the 20-amp threshold. Any volume of electricity below 20 amps is perfectly acceptable." Hotronix support said the unit may draw up to 17 amps. I do not understand how this setup is safe. Am I missing something?
  10. ChuckTerry

    Grounding

    Just wanted to mention something on this in case anyone passes by. There are two types of static that plotter owners generally try to eliminate: static buildup in the vinyl material (Most common) and static discharge between the cutter and the stand (arcing). The two are very much the same problem. You can solve these issues in MANY different ways as evidenced by the countless posts here and on the web in general. The first step you should take is doing a check of your building's ground connections. If you didn't wire it yourself and test it afterwards, assume it's bad. This is a great suggestion assuming you know the outlet is grounded, but you should ALWAYS verify this. If your outlet is bad or someone who didn't know what they were doing replaced ANY item along that wiring branch, you could have a bad ground. This is especially true if you operate out of an older building. While you could go off the assumption that a chassis ground will work effectively, induction is a bitch, and it only gets worse if you have carpet or a dust collection system. Side note: If you operate out of your home, pull your stove out and make sure that the neutral and ground bond has been removed, or better yet, have an electrician do it. Yes. If you bought your stand separately, it may have came with a grounding kit. I trust the one in attached photo about as far as I can throw it, hence why it's still in the packaging. Metal to metal contact at multiple positions. On my MH 1351, I have two ground connections. They run from right beside where the rubber feet sit on the stand directly to a modified plug/cord that powers my machine. Upgrading is the best solution overall. We can discuss mitigation all day long, but it's time consuming, and there are countless factors that can attribute to static problems. This is great advice, but it's absolutely imperative that you do not use the antistatic kit and ground the stand at the same time. Feedback discharge will very quickly fry an I/O board, especially if you're connected over USB rather than serial. Vinyl Capacitor (Cardboard roll, release liner, material) Rollers (including bearing grease which may contribute) Plastic/Metal Roller Arm Stand Assembly Ground Wire Plotter Voltage Source When you use an anti-static kit and a grounding wire between the stand and device, you are creating a battery that tries to charge itself by creating a very direct link between the chassis and part of the capacitor. If you're connected over USB, you are introducing yet another ground loop within that system. As for the electronics wizards that will try to challenge that with "Isolation Transformers" and similar arguments: Electricity is nothing more than a magnetic field. Measurable current is near instantaneous upon circuit completion while voltage is much slower. Your Vinyl Roll is an effective capacitor so you have a large RC circuit sitting on top of everything else. Low end machines do not have the technology onboard to detect, track, and counter this problem.
  11. cousinit75

    Outline Only?

    Hi just out of curiosity will signblazer only cut outlines or can the programme be fooled into doing multiple passes to say fill in a letter?
  12. GFY Design

    SC2 double cutting image

    Also, if you haven't checked already, verify that the number of passes is set to 1 in VinylMaster. 'Send to Cutter' > Select 'Cutter Control' Tab > Passes = 1
  13. I'm definitely not the right person to review this machine but I will post describing in detail what I did to test for roller issues. The CE7000 was delivered last Monday but it wasn't until Thursday I was able to set the machine up fully. I first tested the roll of 310mm vinyl and I had a few issues with the roll falling off and some bunching on the left side, after more testing and no more bunching I put the earlier problems down to my inexperience with vinyl plotters. During this time I didn't write anything down, so on Saturday I did more tests with the 310mm vinyl roll. 97.961" was passed through the machine before the roll fell off, no bunching. I rerolled the vinyl and set a 16ft pre feed, during this the roll fell off but I let it continue until the core, which was hanging on by some tape, reached the machine feed. As the vinyl was exiting the machine it was starting to curve upwards due to the build up of vinyl on the floor. No bunching. I did a cut which came out fine. At first I tried to set the blade automatically and then I realised, three attempts later, it wasn't working due to my vinyl being too thin. This was later confirmed by the manual. On Sunday I tested the 610mm roll of vinyl: 12" passed and bunching occurred on the left side. I realigned the rollers and rerolled the vinyl and it passed through 10" before bunching on the left side. I realigned the rollers and rerolled the vinyl and it passed through 32" before bunching on the left side. I realigned the rollers and about 50" passed before bunching on the left side. I then connected the media basket: I rerolled the vinyl and 19" passed before bunching on the left side. I rerolled the vinyl and 17" passed before bunching on right side. I adjusted the roller on the left side to about 12mm from the left side of the vinyl and I adjusted the roller on the right side to about 20mm from right side of vinyl. No bunching on left or right side but I had to stop at just over 107" because the vinyl was literally going up into the air from the media basket I reversed all 107" of vinyl and let it fall into the rear basket and then I fed the vinyl back through to the front while keeping an eye on both rollers and just tapping the middle of the vinyl with my finger every time it started to rise (so it would collapse into the basket). I started hearing a noise which turned out to be the detached core rattling, it then fell into the media basket. I stopped the pass through and it had reached 165" without bunching. I reversed the vinyl letting it fall into the rear basket and I adjusted the right roller to about 16mm from right side of vinyl and then set the pre feed to 16ft. It all passed without any bunching and then automatically reversed. I set the right roller to about 13mm from right side of vinyl and set the pre feed to 16ft, it passed without bunching and automatically reversed Just before this post I tested passing 16ft of vinyl through again with the vinyl that had been left in the rear basket since Sunday. It all passed without issues even though some of the vinyl had taken a new shape (no longer flat in places). Given my vinyl passes without issue after a pre feed, could my earlier issues be more to do with the vinyl type and my lack of experience with these machines? The vinyl being wound too tight (is this even a possibility?), the CE7000 maybe being more temperamental than previous versions or some sort of mix? In the videos I watched with the bunching issue, the bunching happened every time the vinyl passed through the machine, even when it wasn't rerolled. Users with similar issues said their machine would get to X and have bunching whereas my issues happened at different times and only when I had rerolled the vinyl or when it was first used. Last night I did an ARMS test cut which came out fine... eventually (my mistakes). Are there any other recommended tests to do on a new machine?
  14. mfatty500

    Cutting Flock for Rhinestone Jig Pattern

    I own a Graphtec also, but I would think that cutter would cut flock, just make a couple of passes when cutting. I have to make 2 passes when I cut flock.
  15. haumana

    Mr

    Possibly. You'd need to use a carrier sheet, and it might take several passes. Let us know your results. Media type Self-adhesive marking film (vinyl, fluorescent, reflective) excluding high-intensity reflective film, up to 0.25 mm thickness Polyester film, up to 0.25mm thickness (unguaranteed accuracy)
  16. Have you ever looked at your teflon cutting strip to make sure it is free of scratches and gouges? That could cause many problems. If your test cut cuts at 150, then you shouldn't have to change it. Why did you switch off of Flexistarter? I still use Flexistarter for all of my cutting. I have since 2006. If it was working well, why change it? If you are cutting very small detailed work, you cut on a slow speed. NOT max. Never should you ever have to cut 2.5 mil in 2 passes.
  17. The fact that you are almost going thru the wax paper backing at higher force, is too much blade exposed. It is not possible if the blade depth is set correctly Oracal 651 should never have to use 2 passes. It is only 2.5 mil thick. With that Clean Cut blade you may also have broken the tip off, very easy to do. It takes much less force than regular blades. This is the correct way to set the blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  18. haumana

    pressure settings

    Glitter will require more force (which is a higher number), if you've done a force trial and error on any regular HTV vinyl, or any regular PSV vinyl, then you would have discovered those results. There is not specific force number that we can give to you (for any kind of vinyl) - we don't know what brand of vinyl you're using, we don't know the age of your vinyl, we don't know the condition of cutting strip, we don't know the age and condition of the blade you're using, we don't know what angle blade you're using, we don't know the design that you're cutting - whether is it's just basic shapes or big text, or if it's something intricate, etc. Yes, all of these things are factors. I know you don't want to waste your time and vinyl, however, we've guided you as best as possible and from this point forth, it really and truly is dependent on your specific machine (because same model machines can require different levels of force, but that's just how sensitive some of the parameters), so you really need to trial and error this on your own to get it dialed in. ... and there are times where it's just better to go over the design twice. Meaning, if you're not getting it to cut through just the first time around, it might require two passes. The trick to that is just get your design and do a copy and paste, but leave the second copy sitting on the original. If that's something that turns out to working better for you, then write that down. I have a running Google sheet that has my settings for which vinyl, using specific speeds, specific force, etc. It's not set in stone, because as the vinyl I have ages, those settings have to change. I don't go through inventory like a lot of other members here do, so it can get tricky, but at least it's a jumping off point and I tweak from there and update the numbers.
  19. MZ SKEETER

    pressure settings

    There are not any set in stone settings. You have to experiment with force. No 2 cutters are alike, even the same model can be different. What tutorial? Too many wrong instructions out there. You must set your blade depth correctly to the vinyl that your cutting. Do not use instructions that have to do with using a credit card or post it notes. You will need a very sharp blade to cut glitter, as it dulls blades fast. Run some test cuts. You may even need to run 2 passes, instead of 1. Directions below are for sign vinyl. You may need the blade out a little farther to cut glitter. There are not any set in stone settings, write them down. It still won't be right the next time, but hopefully close. Or keep an extra blade holder for glitter vinyl. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. This thread answered all of your questions. The higher the number, the more force you are using.
  20. Hi all, I have a few pieces of clothing that have what appears to be a thick iron-on media, I've attached a sample. Is there a product like this that can be cut with a vinyl cutter and ironed on? I would assume it would need a couple passes I'm the cutter to cut through! Any guidance is appreciated!
  21. MZ SKEETER

    Baseline Cutter Setting Chart

    No, there are not any set in stone settings, First you must set your blade depth correctly for each of those materials, then you will know your force. It is very important to set your blade depth correctly first. Run speed slow until you learn your cutter. Slow speed also for detailed designs and text. Fast doesn't make your cutting any better. I always run slow. Each cutter can be different, even the same model. After you do each of these materials. you can write down your settings yourself. Then you will be close next time. Some thicker materials you may want to cut with 2 passes. Even the same vinyl can be a little different and require more force. It could be older and stiffer. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  22. Wildgoose

    Getting a clean cut for photo magnet

    Have you tried multiple lighter cuts? Like maybe 3 passes?
  23. haumana

    Cutting rubber sheet?

    If you're willing to try it on your cutter - just use a carrier mat, and you'll probably need to do multiple passes. How many does he need to get done?
  24. MZ SKEETER

    MH871 MK2

    Get yourself some good vinyl also. I see your using Greenstar, consider it practice vinyl only. Get some Oracal 651 or higher. You do not need 2 passes for sign vinyl. It is only 3 mil thick. Overcut should be your cutting software.
  25. 1clo1

    MH871 MK2

    Thanks for the reply, how do I set the overcut? I set the blade per skeeters instructions, the blade is the brand new original one that came with the cutter, only cut a few times with damaged carriage and twice with new carriages, so unless it was damaged from the bad carriage, the blade should be good. I thought of running 2 passes, would that work?