DHCJami

Members
  • Content count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About DHCJami

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Montana
  1. Hello! I unfortunately don't have a Pantone Solid Coated color book right now, as I rarely need to color match to Pantone colors. However, I'm having some bad color translations from screen to screen, so I am looking to see if anyone could possibly color match 3M's Dark Red 483 (Mine is in my Commercial Solutions Swatch card, under Scotchcal 50) with a Pantone color from the Solid Coated Color book for me, please? I got in touch with 3M's tech support as they typically help me with my Pantone Color matches, but they said they don't have a code for that color. Thank you!
  2. totally un vinyl related cheap Rome cruise info

    Actually really good to know, my husband and I have been wanting to take a vacation somewhere. I'll have to look into this. Thanks!
  3. It won't be a complete duplicate, but I'd do what was suggested and first use the original font. I use the source image in the lower-most layer, lock it, and then add layers on top and "stack" so that everything is as close to identical as possible. You can type out the text, then create outlines, and make sure everything matches scale wise. Then for your texture, it won't be exact, but you can make it really close; use a textured Photoshop brush set, and create a high res document with a white background, make sure your opacity is 100% and you're using rich black. You may have to lay the brush down in the same place a few times to make the texture completely opaque, save it as a PSD, open in Illustrator, and then you can live trace the texture you made in Photoshop, seeing as it will be high contrast and resolution, it will be easier to auto trace, and you'll have vectorized grunge! I would just play around with that, expand the drawing and ungroup it so you can grab individual pieces, lay it atop the source image, and use your pathfinder tools, especially "Minus Front" to get the texture to "cut into" your solid pieces, and the pieces that are attached along the edges you can use the "merge" tool for. A bit of a longer process, but I've found it as really very effective for creating vectorized grunge, and this way it's got unique character to it. And you can save it for future use.
  4. heat press

    If you use the laser printable stuff, you do have to peel that off of the backing, and place it on the garment, and it does "curl" under heat. I've found that using a Teflon sheet to lay everything flat before pressing works great.
  5. Hello from Montana!

    Thank you!
  6. If I have to keep mine for much longer, I'll probably invest in one myself. I hate cutting that fast, it feels reckless. LOL
  7. Hello from Montana!

    Hello! I'm Jami. I'm a graphic artist in a custom auto and off-road shop in Southwest Montana. I have about 11+ years in design experience with Adobe, vinyl graphic creation and installation, vector drawing, apparel design and screen printing. I joined this community to use as a resource for my vinyl work. I currently use an R Series II 24" plotter, and if you've ever used one, you'll surely understand why I'm looking for something better. I hope to possibly contribute some knowledge myself, as I have learned much of what I know through trial and error.
  8. Graphtec ce6000 24 in

    I'm also curious - I'm in the market for a new cutter and that's a price range I can agree with.
  9. Mutoh Kona 1400...Good used purchase?

    Honestly, I have so many rolls of 24" vinyl, I probably wouldn't end up cutting things that large anyway. I'll have to look into a Titan maybe. I did used to use a huge Graphtec. From what I remember it was a 64", which obviously at this point would be overkill, but at least I know the brand. I'll keep an eye out. Thanks for the advice!
  10. Mutoh Kona 1400...Good used purchase?

    I'm running it serial. Have been since day one, I think I would have been better off buying a Silhouette Cameo at this point. I have had numerous issues in the past connecting via USB, so I used a serial cable I had on hand to avoid that issue before it started.
  11. Mutoh Kona 1400...Good used purchase?

    Guess that's how these companies stay in business, right? I think I'll probably have to do that. I definitely need something better than this R Series, I wasted almost 3 yards of vinyl trying to cut 10" decals. It's been a nightmare.
  12. Mutoh Kona 1400...Good used purchase?

    I emailed Mutoh, and they said that the Kona line is no longer supported, and the parts are no longer manufactured. They have limited parts in stock, and what they don't have I'd have try to find through Ebay. The search continues.
  13. Mutoh Kona 1400...Good used purchase?

    Boom! Looks like it's in there. I'm pretty certain it's the full cutter version.
  14. Mutoh Kona 1400...Good used purchase?

    I hadn't seen it on here, I just went back through to see if it was listed in these forums to see if any further details might be mentioned. It was on a local Craigslist ad. I do certainly have the room, and I have certainly been in need of something wider. Going to see them cut a detailed design is a great idea, I'll have to arrange that. Is there a way I can look for compatibility in the software?
  15. What speed are you trying to cut at? I recently had issues with incomplete jobs and emailed tech support, apparently anything below 600mm/s is setting yourself up for failure. The technician said, "The speed on the plotter should be a 600 mm/second at all times. This plotter has a very limited memory buffer. If the speed is not kept high, the buffer will not be cleared fast enough to prevent overflow, which results in lost packets of information and miscut graphics." You might try this, if you're not already cutting at that speed. Also, at high speeds like that, BE ABSOLUTELY SURE that your material has enough slack or it will ruin the tracking, and if you have the ruler taped onto the front edge, I recommend putting a strip of tape along the edge so that the moving material edge doesn't catch, because that also posed an issue for me. Hope this helps!