Ironbar

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Everything posted by Ironbar

  1. Ironbar

    HP Cutter Blades

    Awesome. So I'll order a Summa blade and give it a try. Summa must just be into the re-branding game. I like the cutter so far. I actually like it better than my GS-24 with the exception that the GS-24 can cut any size material and cut all the way to the edge. The Summa is a little more limited. (or I just haven't figured it out yet) SignWarehouse has the Summa blades for $11. I'm assuming the are not factory blades though. If they work I will let everyone know just for reference.
  2. Ironbar

    HP Cutter Blades

    The HP Blades are .0585 in diameter and .766 in length. I'm guessing that could be manufacturing tolerances or difference in calibers. Thank you dwp99.
  3. Ironbar

    HP Cutter Blades

    By the way: The cutter looks exactly like the SummaCut D140 with a few minor exceptions. Why would HP bother to change the blade and blade holder?
  4. Ironbar

    HP Cutter Blades

    The cutter is the one that comes with the Latex 115 package. All the specs just say "HP Latex 54 Basic Cutter." The actual model number is the 1NC42A. US cutter wants $191 for five blades and a cutting strip. I guess its not a fortune like I said before but it does seem a little high. Their "Specialty Blades" are $269 for the 5+1 package. It says they are to be used for rhinestone applications and "some transfer media." Not sure what would be different about them except the cut angle. It's all very vague. I can't seem to find any other information anywhere. I'll waste $10 on a Summa blade to compare or do what Wildgoose suggests and send one off to Ross to compare.
  5. Ironbar

    HP Cutter Blades

    Yes sir. I did contact him and he said he was not sure if they were compatible or not... I just have no idea how different the HP machines are from the Summas.
  6. I'm diving into the realm of purchasing either a Latex or Eco-Solvent printer. In the past I have always done my vehicle graphics (not wraps) with Oracal 751. Any suggestions on what to use for standard vehicle graphics when using a latex or solvent printer? Cast vinyl is way more expensive and it seems like the ink is not going to last as long as the vinyl anyway even with lamination. I'm open to any suggestions on what to use. Does not have to be Oracal. Thank you.
  7. Ironbar

    Calendared vs Cast for Vehicle Graphics

    We have an HP design center near by. I'm going to run by there on Monday and take a look at the HP prints to see how dull they are. I've heard both ways. Some say they are dull but not enough of a difference to keep them from purchasing one. I've talked to HP reps and Roland reps. Both say 2-3 years laminated and 4-5 year non-laminated. That being said, you have real-world results. So, what media do you like to use for general purpose vehicle graphics? I've read other threads where you made the comment about parts - believe me, it is lingering in the back of my head. I like to keep equipment maintained and in operation for many years.
  8. Ironbar

    F&M Expressions Question

    I will check them out next time I get transfers done. Thanks.
  9. Ironbar

    F&M Expressions Question

    I have used them many times in the past and I really like the results. I've had a few quality issues with them but they always corrected it quickly. I really like the results, so much so that it prompted my question. I've considered bringing the work in house so I can maximize my profits however, there does not seem to be a good solution to doing the work in house with the same results. Screen printing is out for me - we just do not have space available at this time Toner Transfers - I considered a new IColor machine but I do not like how the transfers have a very plastic feel, hard to get to a matte finish, have to be pressed twice for good results, and crack over a short period of time. Vinyl Printing - We do a lot of vinyl single color shirts and they are ok. In most cases people are very happy with them. I've considered a color print/cut machine (our next purchase anyway) but the results are not the same feel. Plus the weeding and very hard to get a distressed look on graphics without printing a background that eventually does not match the shirt. DTG is just to expensive for us right now and it requires to much maintenance. So, I think we are just going to stick with using F&M for now until we can setup a screen printing area. Anything I am missing? I'm differently open to any ideas. Thank you both for the information. I looked through the Plastisol videos today and it answered all of my questions about their process.
  10. I produced a bunch of decals for a local company and now they want shirts. I am going to go with F&M because it is a few hundred shirts. Problem is when I create the design with F&M I have to use custom colors because I can't find any stock colors that are close. (Only problem I have found with F&M so far) I am going to go with the custom color option but I don't know the Pantone color for the vinyl I used. I would just buy a Pantone color chart and match but $200 for one is outrageous. I'm surprised that Oracal does not give at least a close Pantone number for their vinyl. Anyone know what the Pantone number would be for Oracal 751 067 Blue and Oracal 751 073 Dark Gray? If I buy a Pantone guide that is 10+ years old will it still be accurate? (Looking on Ebay) Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  11. Ironbar

    Pantone Colors for F&M Shirts

    I read through that thread. Fellows does not list the PMS anymore. The first link does not have any grays. The second link is dead. I don't see what good it does to import the color pallet into corel. Corel does not give me the Pantone color. What am I missing? Thanks.
  12. Ironbar

    Lets talk about pricing models.

    I am amazed by this thread. The only service I offer for free is a quote/consultation. Granted, this is my second job so if I don't get business from a customer it won't hurt me in the least. I am far from a professional here but I do a good job and I expect to get paid for it. amaterasu, my advise, take it or leave it - 1) prepare a strategy to properly price your product 2) execute on that strategy 3) consult with your customers - if you loose a job just ask them why Why not create the logo, show it to the customer, then tell them if they want it the price is $xx?
  13. Ironbar

    CorelDraw 2017

    I use a surface with my stylus all the time with X8 for making logos, etc. It works pretty well. I admit, the changes with 2017 are attractive but I cannot justify the price of the upgrade. I looked into the $99 yearly upgrade but the minute you drop your subscription you lose your latest version. Personally, I'm going to stick to paying $199 every two years. I'll just be a version behind.
  14. Ironbar

    My first knifeless tape job

    Any preference between WrapCut and the 3M brand?
  15. I bought a GS24 to replace my other cutter. I was using Vinyl Master Cut and of course with the GS24 it came with Cut Studio. Is it just me or is Cut Studio awful? Maybe I don't know how to use it correctly. It does not import anything in color so so you to work around that with multiple files or color them in Cut Studio. The layout editor leaves a lot to be desired. You can't even turn an object 90 deg. To do perforated cuts you have to cut the object twice. I would think for a company like Roland would have top of the line software paired with their cutters. What is everyone else using? Am I missing something here?
  16. Ironbar

    Cut Studio

    My local Roland dealer was showing me cutting out of Versaworks. He was doing a cut with a perforated cut immediately after without telling the cutter to cut twice. From the Roland site: "VersaWorks supports up to four Roland devices simultaneously, including printers, printer/cutters and cutters." So the point of my original question was to ask what software people were using...what they preferred. As far as using VM. I have VMCut. I have the Roland drivers loaded but VM will not allow me to choose the Roland. This version of VM came with a USCutter. I haven't had time to play with it much. It might cut with the Roland but I could not figure it out very quickly. Besides, I'm going to sell the software when I sell the cutter so there is no point in me using this version of VM. If I am going to use VM I'll buy a new copy. Hince my question, what software do people prefer to use?
  17. Ironbar

    Cut Studio

    I can't use vinylmaster because the version I have won't let me use Roland drivers. Also, one advantage to cutstudio is not having to export and reimport. Versaworks also let's you cut from what I understand. Or maybe its versastudio. Either way they should have a better solution.
  18. Ironbar

    Looking for this font

    I'm trying to figure out exactly which font this is. I've found some that are pretty close but not this exact one. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
  19. Ironbar

    Looking for this font

    Agreed. I went with Impact and the customer thought it was close enough. It will forever be a mystery what font it actually is. They might have had a program that would let them change the weight of Impact. It would have been spot on then. Thanks for the help.
  20. Ironbar

    Cut Studio

    kayhold, The picture you show is CutStudio. I just bought a new Roland it only came with CutStudio. No SignCut for me. They just upgraded it to 3.0 which is a little better but not much. I can deal with most of its quirks except I have to separate out the colors before I send to CutStudio because it won't import them. Lame. What really does not make sense to me is: In CutStudio you can manually change the colors and then cut what you want. I don't get it. I don't know why Roland does not give VeraWorks with all of their products. With CutStudio you can't even do perforated cuts without doing two passes but you can with VeraWorks.
  21. Ironbar

    Looking for this font

    I originally thought it was impact but there is a difference in the V and the E. Bebas Neue is pretty close also except the R and the V are different. I think it is actually impact and just such a "muddy" version that it appears different. Thank you for your help.
  22. Ironbar

    How do you do this?

    I ran across this decal the other day and I wondered how the shop that made these did this? Obviously you can do a perforated cut but how are they doing it through the application tape as well? Are they cutting the application tape by hand? Would love some insight. Thanks.
  23. Ironbar

    How do you do this?

    Yeah. That is my preference. I'm going to stick registration marks on there and save him some money. Thought I would ask because I am was curious.
  24. Ironbar

    Yeti Mug

    Just my opinion but I do about 100 tumblers (different designs) a year at Christmas and usually another 100 throughout the year. I use Oracal 651. As a test I made one for myself and I have washed it in the dishwasher around 20 times and the vinyl looks like the day I put it on. I'm sure hand washing them they would stay perfect forever. I use rapid tac also so they are easier to place and in my opinion they stick better. You can buy directly from Rtic and they are great tumblers.
  25. Ironbar

    How do you do this?

    They are selling the vinyl to the customer in two layers and the customer is applying themselves. I guess they asked for an easy way to align it and this is what they received. He asked me to price them but I have only done cuts through the vinyl and backing and not through the application tape also.