Tenfour86

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About Tenfour86

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  1. Here's two versions depending on the final size you want to make. A more complex one for larger applications, and a simplified one for smaller stuff. If you ever want to change out the title on the badge, the font in your pic of the real badge appears to be something in the helvetica family. I used helvetica inserat, which is a bit more bold than in the pic, but it's what I had in my font library. MCSO Badge.svg MCSO Badge Simple.svg
  2. You could still say "free food," but try installing the new vinyl so that "free" is completely on the sliding door and "food" is mostly, if not completely, covered when the door is fully open. You might have to slightly reduce the size of the text, but at least "free" will be visible no matter if the door is open or closed. As for removing and modifying other lettering, that's up to you and the volunteer group to decide, but it appears that something similar could be done to the blue "Freshly cooked vegetarian food" text too if you wanted. It looks like that text could be shifted to the left so that "freshly cooked" was completely on the sliding door, and "vegetarian food" was covered by the door when open. All in all, when the door is open you would see "free" and "freshly cooked."
  3. I've never tried it in a vinyl cutter, but it could be possible. It might be a little less rough on the blade if you fed the material through grit side down and mirrored your cuts. This way you're only trying to cut through the paper backing and a thin layer of adhesive, avoiding much of the abrasive grit. I've laser cut skate board tape before, and that's how I've set my cuts up. If you're looking to keep your cuts in place like you do with vinyl, you might also try taking some wide masking tape or painters tape and covering the grit side of your material before cutting. Transfer tape, like HT55, isn't sticky enough. It would act like transfer tape and you could weed out your waste material after cutting, leaving your shapes stuck to the masking tape.
  4. Thanks for sharing your work and how you did it. I've been using corel for years and have never looked into what the b-spline tool does. I can't tell you how many times this tool would have been useful to me, and the amount of time it would have saved. Mind = Blown!
  5. As far as I know, aluminum can be cut with carbide tipped tools. I've cut extruded aluminum several times with my miter saw and a blade with carbide teeth. Take it slow, and it cuts like butter. For the thickness you're looking to cut, you might try using a router. Make a jig to slip the corner into that has the radius you're looking to cut on the outside. Use a flush cut bit to follow the profile of the jig.
  6. Never used that laser rubber before, but the inexpensive rubber sheet from Menards works pretty well. A lot cheaper too.
  7. Nice! Looks even better with the modified "E".
  8. Something like this? Sterling.eps
  9. Not necessarily true that Coroplast will emit HCl or Cl gas if laser cut. True Coroplast is not a vinyl product. According to the MSDS, it is polypropylene. PVC (vinyl) molecules contain chlorine which produces HCl and Cl gas when vaporized. Polypropylene molecules only contain hydrogen and carbon. Though it probably wouldn't be a great idea to directly breathe the fumes from laser cutting, it doesn't appear to produce anything too detrimental to people or equipment. I've never tried cutting it myself, but I have a spare piece that I can try out. I've read that it is rather flammable if cut at too high of a power setting, but multiple passes at a lower power can remedy that.
  10. Most of the time, cuts that don't line up are the result of the feed roller slipping as it tries to pull the media off of a heavy roll and through the machine. Try this: 1. Feed whatever length of vinyl you need for your design (plus a little extra) through the machine. 2. Feed it back through the machine in the reverse direction to the point where you want to start your cut 3. Let that extra vinyl hang loose behind the machine. Do not roll it back up. 4. Start your cut
  11. I've actually been using SCALP3 with Windows 10 since the day the OS came out. Haven't had any issues.
  12. How did you install them? Through SCALP? Try installing to your windows system folder. SCALP can use them from there. Instructions can be found in this thread: http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/50363-adding-fonts-to-scalp/?hl=%2Binstall+%2Bfonts#entry407177
  13. Not from Pittsburgh, but how's this? Found the center seal on the wiki page for the Pittsburgh flag. Pittsburgh FD.eps
  14. It seems like it is kind of a universal transfter tape as far as oracal is concerned. If you look on Oracal's (Orafol's) website, they list recommended transfer materials for each type of vinyl they make. HT55 makes the list for a lot of them.
  15. I'm sure there is a quick and dirty method for figuring this out, but I like to do the math and draw a template to work with. From a couple of measurements you can draw a 2D template of your 3D shape. When the diameter of the top ring of a shape is larger than the bottom ring, the 3D shape you have is called a frustum of a cone. Basically a cone with the pointed end chopped off. Like you have already realized, you have to curve your text to compensate for the tapered shape of your object, but another thing to consider is the distance from the bottom you want to place your text. The arc of the text will be different depending on how far up the side you want to place your decal. Here is a good site that helps you draw a 2D frustum template. http://craig-russell.co.uk/demos/cone_calculator/. You'll have to do some converting between millimeters and inches. Instead of entering the height of your object into "length C", enter the distance up from the bottom that you want your text.