101LEDs

Curious, is it the heat or UV rays that are breaking them down? I have a roll of material on the way and didn't think about this happening.

Nothing wrong with that, we even make them for beds and other furniture also. Look around and you'll find 20 other places that need LED's too

A few people have asked to see some of our LED work so here you go. 1. Battery powered back lighting for Laser cut artwork 2. Navigation Lights for a TV station in North Carolina (They film with the quadcopter) 3. Costume for RubberDoll (NSFW if you search her!) 4. Avatar pic, 54LED 60mm Ring Blue 5. White version of 4. 6. Our Jack o' Lantern LED's, Red shown in a real pumpkin

Thanks all, it's Oracal 6510 Fluorescent Red and Green on top of MACtac 8900 in matte violet. Font is PR-Uncial Creepy. SCAL 3 pro software, I put the reg. marks where I might need them for the next step. (reason they are still there). Everything was cut with a 60 degree blade on a LPII. The only problem I had was with the transfer tape not having enough tack and the only other one on hand had too much.

It's not a big deal, I may just change the shape a bit and keep the blue. It's just a practice piece, picked up 5 of the frames for $0.80. Wish I could find them in yellow.

http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/46061-led-lighting/ Pics.

<<Look at the avatar. That is a blue(we make white also) night flying ring we make for multi rotor RC's. It is 60mm in diameter with 54 LED's and runs on 9-15V DC. I will make a post in the correct area and share some pictures of various things.

I will just replace them with another reflective color to be safe. I'm liking the reflectives, looks like there are alot of uses for them. Thanks

We use 8 grams per 16 oz of water on most singe color jobs. Liquid or powder. The picture makes me think time or temperature needs tweaking. One thing I didn't make clear was that the temperature should stay at 185-195 for the whole dye time. The purple needs longer than black, we usually go 12-16 minutes on it and 6-8 minutes on black depending on item size and initial temp. drop on immersion. I would use my normal ratio, 190-195 degrees, and check it after 12 minutes. If it was not the shade needed it would go back in for 4 minutes before checking again. That is how I would try it as a test piece on purple, black would be 8 minutes/check back in for 4/check. It looks like they will turn out nice, how did the template hold up?

Glad it is working for you, like anything there is a learning curve. Picture? What color did you use? How much dye per unit of water? I might be able to work out a "recipe" to cut down on your trial and error costs and time.

We got that same notice weeks ago. When we think that there might be a problem with a buyer (pretty good at spotting them) we make a video showing the item working 100% with their shipping label and tracking # clearly visible. Along with their username on our packaging. We have not lost a case yet. Every time we get a fraudulent claim they are reported with evidence and blocked. 99% of our customers are problem free, it's that 1% that ruins it for everyone.

After a bit of research and talking to some other dye people here is what I found out. This is not a complete list by any means. Will not take a dye.> KC Pro Will take a dye.> Innova Champion and Star, Whamo, Millennium Sirius and Quantum, DiscCraft Elite Z A few suggestions for those who want to give it a shot. Wash with hot soapy water to get rid of oils and rinse with cold before stencils or dye. Always use white or light colored discs/other items. You can't dye dark to light, only light to darker. There is no white dye. Plan colors accordingly. You can mix dyes for custom colors. You must keep exact measurements and times if you want to duplicate it in the future. ( We measure to 1/10 of a gram) Hot dye works best, dark dye colors need less time than light colors. 185-195 degree dye solution, never let it boil. The dye breaks down. If you have hard water, you can use bottled water. Always rinse with cold water. Dab excess rinse water off and let item air dry. The heating will not harm most plastics, they were usually made using a higher temperature to start with.(Injection molding) Some electrical connectors we do look like they would dissolve in hot water but come out perfect. They fit their mating part with no deformation or warping. We have never dyed a disc, so remember these are suggestions and not the final word.

What is the material? Not all plastics or rubbers will accept dye. What type of dye is it? How are you trying to dye them, hot, cold or? The answers will help narrow the problem down. We dye 500-1000 parts a month for our business. If we have a problem it is material related 99% of the time. It's not made of what it says it is...

Thank You for the nice welcome!

I have searched the best I could for an answer but everything comes up as the first generation LP. Can you use the LPII with SB? I probably missed the answer or searched with the wrong abbreviations since I'm new here and to vinyl also. Thanks

Ok, I do not get the Cannont initialize error now that I changed the comm. With Liyu, Roland pnc 1000, and the Redsail choices it refreshes/blinks the screen but nothing happens and no errors or boxes popup when trying to cut. Do I need to keep trying all the listed cutters? Or is there something else amiss? Thanks