dcbevins

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About dcbevins

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    David
  • Birthday 07/17/1967

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  1. That effect just seems to be a gradient. Print to go on what? If you mean on something for outdoors and is contour cut then you probably want an eco-solvent printer and a cutter, or a print/cut combo. Five hundred bucks won't get you there, Multiply by 18. A small eco-solvent print/cut combo: https://www.rolanddga.com/products/printers/versastudio-bn-20-t-shirt-printing-press
  2. The heat re-sublimates the dye sometimes on polyester shirts, allowing it to migrate. "Sometimes," you can limit this by dividing the pressing time in half. Press half the time, let cool, press the other half. This somewhat prevents the dye in the shirt from hitting temperatures to migrate. Here is what Stahls says about it, and their product recommendations, (which I have yet to try but have intended to.) https://www.stahlstv.com/tip-tuesday-overcoming-dye-migration
  3. Not being familiar with Cutting Master whatsoever, I looked it up a bit. I probably have misinformed you. Cutting Master doesn't appear to be stand alone cutting software, but only a plug in for Illustrator or CorelDraw. Thus you probably can't cut directly from it. You need stand alone cutting software.
  4. Photo's to cut files means raster to vector. Maybe you are already up to speed here, but if not, that is your first concept to master, raster vs vector. You will likely be relying on Illustrator as opposed to Photoshop, as it is Adobe's go to vector software. As to compatibility, Signcut pro has a trial, you can test to see if it works. Many people here swear by VinylMaster. The Flexi family of software has a great range of compatibility, but some don't like the pricing.
  5. All the cutting software I have ever seen can open a file directly. This is the normal mode of operation. Many don't even require Illustrator or another design program for desgin. It might not open a AI file directly, but if you save in it's native format it would be no problem. Though, it may open ai as well.
  6. When I was fiddling with the beta, the only feature that jumped out at me was nesting. It was a bit convoluted to get it to nest, but it was there. The design features might be nice, but I use other design software. What I want is just something that cuts and cuts well.
  7. Glad it wasn't me on the crane.
  8. I would guess its the ink. Sometimes ink color shifts when pressed. You have to check the color calibration to the pressed item and not the printed item. Often it's a shift in the yellows. If its blacks tinged green, it might be some clogging issue. Some go to inks like Cobra ink trying to avoid the color shift but I haven't tried them. Sometimes, if you know which direction the color shift is going, you can compensate the colors in your image or even use a different ICC profile. What ink are you using?
  9. Thanks. Ordered five of them.
  10. Hey Guys, What brand of Tshirts might you people know that are longer in the torso that others?
  11. I see your using Inkscape .48.5. That version used an internal dpi of 90 internally. It might be the cause of the size discrepancy when you paste as many other programs expect 96 dpi. If this is happening i think its like a 1.06666666667 percentage difference, or something like that. I'm not sure why your getting blank text when importing. Inkscape I think creates all text inside a <tspan> object that is wrapped by a <text> object. Looking at the "arial" block of text I see: <text xml:space="preserve" style="font-size:72px;font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;line-height:125%;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;font-family:Segoe Script;-inkscape-font-specification:Segoe Script" and sodipodi:linespacing="125%"><tspan sodipodi:role="line" id="tspan3905" x="82.85714" y="135.21933" style="-inkscape-font-specification:Arial;font-family:Arial;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-variant:normal">arial</tspan> One says Segoe Script and the other Arial. Maybe this is confusing VM. You could try saving a copy of the file as Plain SVG and see if it helps. However I think its time to upgrade to .92 and try. Lots of bug fixes and new features in .92. .48 is a bit old. The latest version of Inkscape switches to using 96 dpi internally, as is the CSS standard. This too might fix your size pasting issue. One thing to be cautions of, all Inkscape SVG files made in older versions will give a warning when opened with the newer version, due to the 90 vs 96 dpi issue. It gives you options to reset the viewbox, scale or ignore, while making a backup copy in the same directory. Scale is usually the one you want. But you should double check all sizes if you do this. If you have an IRC client, point it to irc://irc.freenode.org/#inkscape. This is the official Inkscape chat room. Somebody there might know. If you don't have a client, on the Inkscape web page is a web client, but it requires creating an account. https://inkscape.org/en/community/discussion/ You could also convert all the text to paths. It looses text edibility, but is more or less guaranteed to work.
  12. Triple layer blu-ray can do 100gb each disc. Still a pain when dealing with TB of stuff and not all that cheap. As to ransomware, its good to have something not connected to the computer. I keep my main 4tb backup drive offline until I use it. This would defeat your need to have everything always backing up and connected. If its connected ransomware can get to it. Online backup works here, to counter ransomware, but has a cost. I do things manually trying to avoid those costs. Sucks if I don't stick to a schedule. I though, don't yet have a bluray. I want one, but super critical stuff I still send to dvd. This is usually documents and created artwork but not collected clipart.
  13. So many USB port brands out there I can't say. I'm using a HooToo now and its done the job. My external USB Hard drives could be called "portable." But they sit in one place and are rarely moved. It is my belief, (don't have lots of facts to support it,) that portable drives that are truly portable and moved around often are going to fail more often. I am also of the school that thinks it is best to leave drives spinning. That is I don't shut down my hard drives. Computer is always on, sleep management on the drives is disabled. I feel this improves their lifespan as they are not heating up and cooling down. It's an open debate on that. The one exception is one I only connect when doing back up, to keep it hopefully out of the range of maleware or ransomware should it ever hit. But it is still on and spinning, just a usb on off switch keeps it disconnected except when needed. But I work from a desktop and not a laptop. A laptop that is shuffled around alot is a different ballgame.
  14. I personally would be leary of USB only power. Too much drain on the motherboard's usb ports can cause electrical glitches. If its is plugged into a powered hub, its less of a concern drawing power from the pc. My computer has 4 back usb ports, all full, two front, one full, a 10 port powered usb hub, with 2-4 ports free depending on whats plugged up, another 5 port powered hub, with 2 ports free, and two 30 foot usb cables with a repeater built in. In my situation, I want as many things under their own power not pulling from the main usb ports. I have two WD external 4TB drives. One drive has backup of my art work from the computers main drive, (via file hamster.) It also has personal photos, dl'ed videos, clip art, fonts, music and archived documents. The second drive backs up the first drive and the main computer drive. I have redundancy on my artwork, (on the main drive, on the 1st external and on the 2nd external.) Personal photo's are in the cloud also. Some stuff I archive to optical disks. I also have an external 1tb drive, that I mostly use as a buffer when moving stuff around. WD is a good brand. You had one fail. It happens no matter the brand. None of them can last for ever. Mechanical drives tend to outlast solid state drives. Redundancy is one of the best options. Multiple copies so that no single link is critical. Going two, three or ever four levels deep can get you close to fail safe. RAID storage can do pretty much the same, if you pick the right option. The right RAID configuration can allow one or more of the drives in the array to die, while the data lives. Cloud storage is also good, as most providers have multiple levels of redundancy and are pretty robust. It sounds like you were using the external not as backup, but as storage. When it died, you lost all your storage and had no backup. Get two or three drives this time, one for storage and the others for backup. Just having one drive for storage is just a time bomb.
  15. I played with the beta some, but it had some strange behavior, so I ditched it. I think it may have been sharing some settings like directory locations with the 1.0 install, not sure. I just renewed a few days ago for a year. I would like if it transfered over, but can live with out it. I talked to them, (via chat,) a few days ago about a CorelDraw 2017 plug in. They said they should have it by the end of the month. I might try the 2.0 again then and see if it honors my subscription code.