• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


dcbevins last won the day on March 16

dcbevins had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

263 Excellent

1 Follower

About dcbevins

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/17/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

19,772 profile views
  1. Signblazer. Crashing

    To drive the cutter, not much. Inkscape has an Extension called plot that works with some cutters, but its not guaranteed and rather bare bones. At least you can test it freely. To do vector design, well Inkscape is practically it. Gravit and Vector.io are around, libre draw is around, but Inkscape dwarfs them in my mind.
  2. Sticking to cut vinyl, maybe hats, towels (for house use or sports,) various bags, (tote, duffel, gift, ect.,) umbrellas, can coolers, magnets, (if you can cut the dang things or hand cut them,) dry erase boards, (calendars on dry erase are nice, but kind of big), shoes (flip flops might be cheap), decals with their company info and local emergency numbers (magnet maybe,) pencil cases, table covers, coasters, backs of rulers, Frisbees, calculators, tape measures, (might be hard on the tiny ones,) band aid dispenser, (maybe too small,) flashlights, power banks, aprons, stadium seat cushions, folding chairs, sweat bands, wallets, bluetooth speakers, phone cases. If you spent a little and bought a custom ink stamp, you could stamp all sorts of stuff, maybe even a pen or pencil. If you have a heat press, and got a sublimation printer, then full color phone cases, calenders on aluminum, mugs, and plates.
  3. Signblazer. Crashing

    Copied image from forum, pasted into Inkscape, trace bitmap, 10 seconds.
  4. The thing that comes to mind is to laminate or not to laminate. There are those that would swear to always laminate. Lamination does add durability especially for outdoor graphics. But most eco-solvent and latex inks have a good deal of built in uv resistance and outdoor durability. It might be say five years verses eight. Personally for stickers, I think lamination is over kill. But if you did laminate, then it might, (and I say might,) be an easier workflow to have separate print cut machines. With lamination and a print cut machine it means printing without cutting, unloading, laminating, reloading and cutting. With separate machines it means print from one machine, laminate, cut on another. This separate process lends itself to more flexibility in scheduling. Either way if your doing lamination, what ever is the cutting machine better have great registration for contour cutting. If you really don't have high volume, then all such printers are BAD to clog if not used frequently. Here having one printer and one cutter might be a great thing if the printer is a latex printer. These clog less when they sit idle for days on end. I don't think you can do transfers with Latex, unless it's changed recently. So eco-solvent would give you the option of transfer for garments, (also printed HTV,) were as Latex would not. The BN20 is going to be slower. But I don't think that is a great consideration as you can run the thing almost continually if needed, (helps reduce clogs running it continually.) If all your doing is stickers without lamination then it might be a fine choice. But a larger machine opens you up to expanded options like banners, posters, vehicle graphics and or wraps. A larger machine can take a wider variety of media. There really is a great deal of interesting media you can run through the larger machines. If you really are swamped, a bigger machine can spit out more per run than a smaller one. Another thing I am not sure about is if you need perf cutting. Without it you will be hand trimming the stickers down to size. I think most of the Roland machines, including the BN20, can perf cut. But don't hold me too it. It probably wears out blades more quickly.
  5. Question about dimensions.

    https://vehicle-templates-unleashed.com has some free vehicle templates if you sign up. I only saw 2010 F250's and later. I THINK these are to scale, but not completely sure. Often these templates are 1:20 scale. If you have a later version of CorelDraw, they have several vehicle templates you can find via Connect. My search didn't find a F250. But I still thought I'd mention it just for others that might not know Draw has those included. http://signshophelper.com lists some F250's, but they are about twenty bucks. Not too bad I suppose. If you go with a photo, make sure who ever takes it puts a level yard stick or something you can gauge scale by into the photo.
  6. Just remember the SignCut trial is limited to a small cutting area. I think if you go outside that region, it goes nuts. Can't remember the actual dimensions. When I first looked I your photo's, I thought, "Blade out too far." Looking them some more I'm thinking port or communications problems such as wrong buad rate, wrong or bad cable, wrong cutter model selected in the cutter settings. Testing with other software could help narrowing the issue down, (especially if someone will give you support with that other software.) I'd still triple check the blade depth. Inkscape has a way to send data straight to some cutters. If you go to Extensions>Export>Plot you will see tabs for set up and sending the data to the cutter. It might give you another testing path.
  7. Most people run when a big army with drummers sounding cadences come there way. There can be a lot said for going with the majority. Ah come on Wildgoose, give it the old college try again, like a virgin. Pony up some Draw tutorials. Draw some stuff. Align some stuff. Try the one handed mouse wheel zoom, (god bless the one handed mouse wheel zoom.) Both CD and Inkscape have a node editing, (shape tool,) that is more all in one than Illustrators. The one tool does the job of two, (maybe three,) in Illustrator. This might be the unnatural feeling you are getting. Try the C E T B and P keyboard shortcuts in Draw. Marvel at "Ungroup All." Behold the unslipery zooming. Use strokes that go in or out. Try the Contour tool, both the Interactive and the docker. Break Apart stuff in new ways.
  8. If you already have software that can cut and need design software, Inkscape is plenty powerful, feature rich and free. Adobe Illustrator is what most of the world uses for Vector Graphic Software. Go to an Ad Agency where the salaries are $200k a year, and there all going to be using Adboe. So if you want to march to the same drummer as most of the world, use Illustrator. It will cost you. Me I like CorelDraw. I find it faster at getting things done. It is cheaper than Adboe, but not much. I still use Inkscape time to time. Affinity Designer is a rising star, hard not to notice as it's only fifty bucks. There are others out there, but I'd stick with one of these mentioned starting out. It could be basic Vinyl master is enough to handle your designs. Others would have to say about that. There is no such things as easy in the beginning, there is only hard. Hard becomes easy after practice.
  9. What program came with it? The software you need is cutting software and design software. Some programs are both in one, some not.
  10. Vinyl quality & Price

    I'll just throw in that I find the Greenstar vinyl very hard to weed. Sorry USCutter.
  11. Help with this

    I know what I would do in CorelDraw or Inksape, but don't know how that would go in VM. You are getting a white area you don't want. You want one path. You have to take that white area and use it to trim or whatever the term is in the software your using the background. Then there is no white.
  12. Image Formats. . .convert to SVG?

    CorelDraw does absolutely wonky things with SVG imports. It will lock each object in the svg and then add a hidden attribute to many. You have to unlock and remove the hidden attribute to get at them. Draw has an "ungroup all" option. It's great. It strips a bunch of nested groups clean. But, older versions would freeze the program if you did this on an imported svg.
  13. Image Formats. . .convert to SVG?

    If you want edit-ability, the native file format always wins. Programs all work better in their native format. Sometimes things can be lost, like groups, transformations, gradients, metadata, layers, ect when exporting. If you just wanted to export to another location so you had better thumbnails, that is fine, disc space is cheap. I would think converting them all and not keeping the native format to be real bad. I keep all artwork I create in its native format. Art work I have found elsewhere I keep most of the time in the format I found it. Converting can cause data loss like I mentioned above. I even keep a back up of my artwork based on revision. A program backs up a time stamped-named file to another location each time I save the file. If I just relied on exports, I would have know way of replicating an earlier stage with reliability. Maybe you just need better thumbnails. Sage Thumbs is a windows program that does ok at adding eps and other thumbnails to windows explorer. I think it requires ghostscript be installed and in order. https://www.cherubicsoft.com/en/projects/sagethumbs If you have CorelDraw, a program called ST Thumbnails Explorer is the best thumbnail viewer I have found. It finds the installed CoreDraw and uses its engine to generate the thumbnails and also uses ghostscript. I said it is the best not in its appearance or function, but best in that it handles almost every vector format. It's just about the only one that makes reliable CDR thumbnails, but handles practically all the ones I've thrown at it, except for maybe a CAD like one or two. Xnview and XnviewMP are two others that do well. XnView is their classic viewer and XnViewMP their updated one. They also make the above SageThumbs. https://www.xnview.com/en/ Ghostscript is need for those for AI EPS and PDF. https://www.ghostscript.com Here is a Windows Explorer screen shot. With SageThumbs installed you can see eps ai svg and other formats just fine.
  14. Did you use autotrace to get your result? If so there are things, (assuming it was Inkscape you used,) one can try to get better results. Reduce the number or scans, don't stack results, convert to greyscale or b/w before hand. A manual trace always does better, (bezier pen.) If you did something like DarkShadow suggested and the stroke became an object somehow, then you might can get around that. You would have to share a link or post a vector file of what you've done to determine. Playing with the color fill does nothing to the path. It is just a visual way to see what is going on.
  15. There is a inkscape extension that can generate puzzles. https://inkscape.org/da/~Neon22/★lasercut-jigsaw. Thing is it doesn't seem to create individual puzzle pieces. It probably could be a starting point with some boolean love. Ecut for CorelDraw as an extensive puzzle generator.