deth502

late to the party, but, ford maveric. bronco and im on the ram does count side. the company is dodge, the ram logo is specific to the truck. and...... ummmm........ like..... an impala? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impala

i just had to reformat my hd and i lost everything. its not that i cant find a download link here, but i can find many of them. can someone please post a link to the most current, free, be all-end all, latest version, working sign blazer download thats out there? thanks. btw, afaik, there were different downloads with different drivers in them, i need it to work with an mh series, and i dont care if it will run any thing else.

i usually either take a picture or find a stock pic on the net and just do it up in photoshop for approval before i start messing with vector files. alternatively, you can import a jpg into sb (most likely other cutting programs too) and do your vector designing over that, then export the whole thing as a jpeg to send to a customer. i did get a template for my truck to experiment on thanks to the generosity of primal decals (which i havent gotten to experimenting yet) but the jpeg thing has worked for me for years.

+1 to the port issue. i ALWAYS plug my cutter into the SAME usb port. if i use a different one, sb wont recognize it, i have to go in and change it manually, and even if i start sb with the cutter in the wrong port, then change it back, still nothing. as soon as it is recognized in another port it screws everything up and you have to go into the settings to change it. just DONT EVER plug the usb cable into ANY OTHER port than the one you set it up for and things will run smoothly.

im gonna guess static on this one.

i use a recipe i got here but cant remember it. iirc,m it was much more something like a 3 cup to 1 cup mix, im going to assume more water than alcohol? with a spoonfull or 2 of dawn.

pretty sure its not supposed to work that way. corel and illustrator are just to create the images, but you need another program to interface that image with the cutter itself, like signblazer (free), vinylmaster, signcut, ect..

i use a ball point pen. i just take a regular bic pen and wrap tape around it until its thick enough to fit in the carriage. thats all, no other mods. i never actually tried the pen attachment that came with the machine.

not knowing exactly what size that is, but knowing there are 72 points to an inch, my calculator puts 8pt at 0.1111111111" i have routinely done 1/8" letters, or 0.125", which is pretty damn close, on my mh series machine, so the titan, being a step up, should hopefully be able to do that or better, id imagine.

you mean 50 yd roll, not 50' ?? i always buy the 24" x 30' (10yd) rolls and never had a problem, but have recently started unrolling them as i all of a sudden started developing a static problem.

i dont always cut htv, but when i do, i do it backwards. that needs to be a meme. every time, guaranteed, first one is always backwards (not mirrored)

my family bought a deli. my father and i were fixing it up, he had a guy that did decals for him, but he was going out of business. we were not yet ready but there was a mad rush to try to come up with a name and slogan for the front window begfore this guy shut down. he wanted $1200 to do the window. i found i could get an mh series cutter and the 2 colors of vinyl he wanted for significantly less than half of what this guy wanted adn it would alleviate the worry of trying to come up with the name on the spot. so thats what i did. that store has since closed. but thats neither here nor there. after that, my employer "ran out of money" a few years and we got laid off over the winter, i do a lot of gun related decals and i am on a few gun forums. i just posted some of my work there and offered them for sale. i didnt make a killing, but it was a nice supplement to my unemployment compensation to get my income back up. i also still get the occasional local job through word of mouth.

i had issues with my mh series for the first time ever after years of use doing this some time back. it was static generated from the roll unrolling killing it. as was said, unroll and wipe down to dissipate the static and it cut fine (6' in my case, so almost 2 meters) i had no tracking issues at all.

also, ive always heard to wash the shirts before applying, (both htv and screen printing). im guessing this would/could help the situation also if it has to do with "loose" dye.

its what i have. did these with it. http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/52328-cheapest-multi-color-shirts/&page=2#comment-423599

welcome. i always use dry graphite for my blade holders. that said, its very hard for me to do as well, it takes a VERY delicate balance of pressure and speed. ive found the blade exposure dosent have much to do with it (as long as its sufficient) but DO make sure it working properly as stated above.

welcome from PA also. central pa here. (northumberland county)

i use them for shipping as well.

if your still feeling generous, how about ford 577 and/or 578 (cant tell the difference from the thumbnail)? if not, no worries. ive never worked with an outline before so i just thought id do some experimenting on my truck.

yes, that is the z-axic ic. so i guess that rules out a bad one.

idk, sounds exactly like what mine did when the z-axis ic went. idk what else to tell you, but if you did get a bad ic and youre in a time crunch, just to to your local electronics store and tell them you need a lm324 in a dip (dual in-line package) should be a buck or less.

are you well grounded?? i ALWAYS used to see posts here about cutter not working and everyone saying it needed to be grounded, and i ran mine for years without a ground wire and no problems. then, about a year ago (i do use my cutter very infrequently) i had erratic cutting issues. couldnt figure it out. i think i may have even asked here. kept having the probem until i blew out my chip and the cutter would not even raise any more. i changed that out (heres a hint, its a common $0.20 op-amp, no need to pay $5+ for one) and figured out that it was static generated by the roll of vinyl as it unrolled. i put a copper wire to the frame on each side and ran it to rest on the vinyl coming off of the roll. in addition for really long cuts i pre-unroll the vinyl and wipe it down with a damp cloth to dissipate static. i havent had the problem since. i see uscutter now also sells a special grounding kit too.

love that gold leaf.

i saw this the other day and lol'ed. figured id pass it on. http://www.ranker.com/list/funny-knock-off-toys/jacob-shelton?var=12&utm_expid=16418821-253.BAWaw7_5T3qAVTf7EdWDtA.1&format=SLIDESHOW&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ranker.com%2Flist%2Ffunny-knock-off-toys%2Fjacob-shelton%3Fformat%3DSLIDESHOW

hello all, its been a while. im looking to get/make some shirts for our concession business. i basically want our logo on the back, probably about 10"-12" circle (whats a good size for the back of a shirt??) it is a 6 color logo, but 2 of the colors are black and white, so im looking at a 5 color logo on either a black or white shirt. i have a 15x15" heat press, and i was looking into getting heat transfers, but the first site i went to was in the area of $30+ each for a 10-25 qty. so my next thought was to put the labor into it and layer the whole logo doing it on my cutter with siser heat transfer vinyl, but again, for that much heat transfer vinyl im still looking at around $15 a shirt in materials, NOT counting the shirt. i do have a 2 color screen press setup (that i never used), i think it might be expandable to 4 colors, but that still wont cut it. so im asking the experts, what is the best way to go to get a decent quality shirt without losing mine?