freebird1963

I could never get SBE to cut. So gave up. Last nite thougth I'd give it a try again. I donated to the sbe hacked version by DB. INstalled and everything okay for that. Set up is Refine MH-721 on LPT 1. Signgo cuts fine. SBE does not. Seems to want to send it but never gets there. Then the program will stop responding. setup for SBE is cutter Refine MH271 output device Blazer LPT1 Direct comm settings baud 9600 data bits 8 parity none stop bits 1 flow control hardware (have tired others also) And once I open up SBE and can't get anything to print Signgo will not print either. I have to reboot the machine and turn the cutter on and off. SUCKS. Any ideas here plz. Thanks Mark

Only reason I mention the baud and all is all the docs and others have asked. Com is only port that uses them if I recall right. While it might be a cable issue I doubt it since works otherwise. I thought about the port setting. Its set to ecp. I haven't tried normal. Guess I will give it a try but be stupid that SBE won't work with bi directional. But seen wierder things over the years. USB was never reliable and not ever going back to it with this MH-721. I had nothing but sever headaches when I tried using the USB. Thanks for the help ! Mark

when I press the setup button on the cutter it says the baud rate of 9600 but what is the E speed +0 vale for/do ?

Listed yes and thats it. Acutally just shows a pic and says e speed +5 vale and thats it. Whats it do ? Its purpose in life ? Is that the default ? +5 cuz mine says +0 No mention of it otherwise in the manual.

No. USB and Parallel. Its not the computer its the program. I can cut form signgo w/o any issues. SBE just won't. If I do as I wrote above I can cut once. Something in SBE is fubared up but I can't figure it out. Neither DIrect or Cut mgr will cut. Tried changing the baud rate. No go. Tried changing the flow control. No go. Made sure no other printer was setup to use LPT1 and their aren't any. Tried changing from BLAZER.LPT1 to LPT1 and still a no go. But after foolin with this stupid program I reboot. Fire up sign go and cut away. Put same port settings in SBE as in signgo and still no go. THanks Mark

Wierd. I changed the port to enable legacy detection. Tired cutting and nothing. So thinking back to my DOS days I went to a command window and did a dir/w > lpt1 and the cutter moved a smidgen. Then all of a sudden SBE start working. Will see after I reboot if it continues to work.

Hello and thanks but not sure what you mean. signgo and SBE never run at the same time. Only try when SBE doesn't work which is always. Not sure about the usb part tho as I am connected thru the LPT port.

Hello Looking for a cutable vector of the world trade center twin towers . Thanks Mark

cool stuff. sent request 5/8 never heard back. still offereing ? sent again today. thanks Mark

nylon if water proof has a treatment on it so you need a vinyl with a good adhesive. Imprintable warehouse and stahls carry that type. Gorilla grip is the stahls version I think. I used joto paper mulit cut on one set of wick shirts. Very soft hand. Imprintables has a eco film that is suppose to be real soft also. Sisler easyweed seems to have some soft ones. Or atleast the samples they sent were soft to the touch. With mesh you might have to worry about the adhesive pressing thru the holes so use something in between when pressing. Does the league or tourney require a certain number size ? Some do. Some don't. 6 or 8 inches is normal around here. Names 1.5 to 2 inches. If you want the softest hand go with dye sub on the poly shirts. It can not be beat. I have done about 200 shirts and they are great. Draw back is you have to use light color shirts. Vinyl on poly wick shirts kinda defeats the wicking on them. If the design is small probably no biggie but still.. For poly theres Denali www.sublimagic.com Used alot of these shirts. Vapor Apparel several different models to choose from. Get them from conde. VKM has some. website is kinda fubared tho. Have to call them. Badger sportswear - not cheap tho. but some cool ones. Tonix -very cool looking stuff but not cheap either. Augusta - I only found one model I think its 790 for them but its an older catalog so may be more. Few others out there. Good Luck Mark

I've had my MH-721 for 1.5yrs or longer. But no more than 20 hrs of cutting time on it. If that much. First the LCD went out. Got a new one and now its acting up again. Either nothing comes on it or 1/2 of its missing. !@#$! Then the other day I found these 2 little parts sitting on that little shelf that the cutter head moves on. WTF ! One is a little nut and the other is a plastic white sleeve. Kinda what wires go through. Anyone got any ideas ? I can't see where they might have come from.

doesn't seem to have but not 100 percent either. cant see and not really wanting to pickup the cutter head and fubar something like that big rubber band. but the wheels seem to be on good.

thanks but you didn't read the message properly. They were laying on the shelf that the cutter head moves on. I put them on top of the cutter to take the pic and move out of the way of the cutter head. mark

Hello All I have tried but failed in trying this. Maybe somene here can. I don't even come close not even grenade close. Thanks Mark Semper FI Devil Dogs

from a article on white ink What is the story of white ink chemistry? Titanium dioxide is not easy to keep properly mixed. So your printer needs effective technology to keep the pigments in suspension. A cheap printer might have a cheap method; a high-end printer would tend to have a more sophisticated solution. Be a bit careful when manufacturers are claiming their white ink works: because when I visit printshops that have this ink, they are less than satisfied. Titanium dioxide is not easy to keep properly mixed. So unless your printer has a means to keep it stirred, the white ink may cause problems. This is really a good case of "stirred not shaken" since shaking the ink too much is not good for it either

Yes I do . I have been working on it off and on. Just still learning alot of this so it a rough spot and gotta go find videos and tutorials. Thanks Mark

I was getting tired of having my cuts not finishing or little detail cuts not cut through or coming up. I was at the point of selling my Refine MH-721 and looking for a GX-24. It was that bad. So I ordered a 45 and 60 blade from Russ at CCB. They arrived today. I put the 45 in and cut a Betty Boop. While not overly detailed there are some some cut areas that before would have fubared it up when weeding. I cut the pressure down to 70 (I was using100-120 with the cutter blades) and sent the job. Oh and this is that low end vinly sample pack from uscutter I was cutting on. I AM EXTREMELY IMPRESSED. !! I AM A HAPPY FRICKEN CAMPER ! IT WEEDED LIKE BUTTER ! THANKS RUSS ! THANKS CCB ! USCUTTER you should look to use these blades INSTEAD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mark

will try to take a pic on the next cut. do the 60 degrees have a offset. ? this is a clean cut blade and nothing on the little box. thanks mark

Hello I decide to give the 60 degree blade a run today. Its a clean cut blade. I was cutting the BGV vinyl I got from uscutter. So I cut it at 70 force and 24 speed (same as I did for the 45 blade ) and while the cuts were somewhat better to weed it looked like the cuts were more perforated then just cut lines. Not clean cut lines like a 45 degree one. Its this normal or is the speed to high/ force ? or do I have the blade too far out tho it didn't cut through the backing ? Thanks Mark

I got my ccb and so far great. However I just cut a big oval and wasn't too good. I did not set a offset. Using the Roland 45 degree one with the Refine MH-721 should I be setting a offset ? If so what ? .25 ? USing signgo for now. thanks Mark

well i got rid of the nags with this uk verision but lost my refine mh 721 cutter. so how do i get it back or which one do i choose. running on lpt 1 too.

Never mind previous post. found answers in the other topic. Thanks Mark

Is there a difference between the CRADDLE and BS ? I seen both on youtube. and whats the link to buy ? thanks Mark

is there a good cold one that doesn't cost more than my car ? LOL thanks Mark

for laminating what is being used ? Hot or cold lamination ? Thanks Mark