Karl

Yes and Yes, and more. The answer may be in this one line: "I am running on windows xp" Flexi may not be putting in the necessary time to make the software MACpc compliant, so for one: I probably would have been better off to buy a cheap MSpc for cutting, and I did not do the research into cutting programs that I should have , I am currently in the process of documenting step by step the set-up, settings, and problems I am having with Flexi, it is time consuming and have to work that in as time allows.

Being more specific: I am using a MACpc, osx, in retrospect it may have been easier to have just bought an old MSpc to use for cutting, but then there is the extra software costs, extra space, extra Ethernet considerations, and the extra maintenance hassles that the MSpc requires. There are, as far as I can find, Only two programs for Mac, flexi & SCP. Flexi Starter for Mac is about $120, (with a dongle) the new version does have a "contour cut" // I have always just drawn in the contour I want, so I have complete control over it, so I don't have actual experience with the built-in contour tool. Starter has a very rudimentary graphics set, which I have found handy for quick "on the fly" corrections and adjustments. It also allows me to select one or a group of items and send that to the cutter, IF flexi functioned as it should, it would be well worth the cost, however: I have had nothing but trouble with it, it will not cut complicated anything, Flexi Pro for Mac is about $2000, that includes a full blown graphics program and a load of features. Help Desk: SAI, the one person I got to speak with was not sign experienced, really didn't know what he was talking about. The one email I got answered had this single line response: "the latest version of this software is at this link www" Opinion: Flexi should be giving away Starter for free, as a promo for their Pro version. SignCut is a plug-in for a number of graphics programs, Here are the current prices for your information. SignCut-X2 3-Months Subscription $36

If you have been using Signcut for a year and like it, keep it. (as for contour cut, contact the rep, they seem to be very good at addressing problems) Flexi on MSpc machines seems to function better than on MACpc, Flexi Starter's graphics capabilities are very limited, but handy. Flexi on a Mac is one of the worst pieces of software ever. as for cost, I got flexi jr because it was cheap, and boy is it cheap. the question is "cost / value = worth" in retrospect, it has cost me more in down time, frustration, wasted material, and time to attempt to set it up in a way that it will function correctly, = I wasted more $ than the difference in price. Flexi Pro is supposed to be the "the" cutter program, but if I had $2000 for software I wouldn't have settled for a Pcut either. since there is NO manual for flexi starter -- it is the Pro manual-- I am putting screen shots together so people can see what it is before making a choice.

I know that Flexi Pro cost more than I can afford, Flexi starter is a "pile of ..." I know some folks have it working well for them, but this software has cost me too much time and material , and it cost actual money, if they were giving it away , thats one thing, but when they charge for it it should cut as described. There is no Flexi starter help or document, it is the Flexi Pro help and document that one must try to apply to the very lame starter software. (and yes i have changed settings every which way, and in a meticulous manner, even upgraded to latest VR.) Personally I recommend the best software you can afford, even if it is your first cutter. If you have the time, get the free trials and test them out,

THANK YOU for this link I used to use Freehand, it is SO much more for the creative mind than the Liner Illustrator. & ail has so many "hidden" features, like the paths options that are available ONLY by opening a Pathfinder window, it seems the documentation is meant for those that already know ai well, so these helps are valuable, note how simple the solutions are: change the text baseline, bla bla bla, anyway this is a very good link Northside Design has done an exelent job of being clear on HOW TO. thanks again.

yes, check your cutter manual should have step by step for changing speed / pressure / etx but also check the software, sometimes a parameter gets changed the affects other things,

For the same Take Apart Manual as above, but with the photos: heres a PDF: http://freesolarinfo.ning.com/profiles/blogs/the-pcut-vinyl-cutter-take

and for a Take Apart Manual to replace a part or make an adjustment: I made one when I changed out the chip: http://freesolarinfo.ning.com/profiles/blogs/the-pcut-vinyl-cutter-take

I too have the 630, I got 2 of those blade holders for Roland blades, on ebay, they ship from hongcongo, but they are good, better than the one that came with the cutter. I think I just searched for "roland" & "blades" , had to wait to get them at a good price tho. $18 each with shipping.

Here is one with photos, specifically for those that have never applied before. It is a small graphic but the steps are the same basic ones. http://freesolarinfo.ning.com/profiles/blogs/how-to-apply-vinyl-for-the

Not to mention that Ai is not as intuitive nor straight forward as it could be, should be. some features are only available when specific tool windows are open, many features are not clearly explained. aka it doesnt always take a brain fart to make it difficult to get done what you need to in Ai.

if its single lines, pick one line at a time and click the line , go to one end, click the "handle" it should highlight, click and hold that handle and press shift then move the end of the line around and put it close to where you want it. the shift forces a straight line. play with it for a while, it will become self evident.

Exactly! if a line on the screen is not perfectly horizontal or vertical it will show as "bumpy" this is a screen resolution thing, you may find some improvement by increasing monitor resolution AND / OR increasing Document resolution = in Document setup or when new doc created; see attached. Default doc is 72 dpi, can be set to 300 dpi which makes a much larger file size. No matter if it is bit map or vector image, if a line is drawn with the line tool, no matter how it appears, it is straight in the vector graphic data, and that is what gets sent to the cutter.

We feel for you, glad to hear you have faith in where she is now, pain free indeed. God Bless you and strengthen you, may your days be blessed with fond memories.

I have noticed that different vinyl will "slide" on the backer when the knife turns, not just cheap vrs 3 year vrs 7 year, but different colors will have better or worse adhesion to the backer. example, I cut the same 3/4" cursive from GMI (really cheap) blue, white, & red. the blue and white cut and did not pull up, but the red had little pieces sliding up and rolling up. I did try a 60 blade, not a good result, when I use a 45 and with the pcut630 at 30 speed I got the best result. remember too that when the blade swivels to turn it is pushing against the vinyl in order to make the blade turn, so sharp corners that come back will have a tendency to roll up = if possible design smaller cuts with few such corners.

I too am frustrated to the max. My question is 1. is it the cutter, 2. the software, 3. a combination of them? Trying to use a Pcut 630 24", the machine itself seems ok, like eddleb said, on small stuff. but even two lines = on the second line it will stop in the second letter and either cut a line to the side or just stop. It must be all about the cutter and software, so it is all about the trouble-shooting, how to pinpoint the real problem. = if it is something on the cutter that can be replaced or just the software not doing what it is supposed to. I really want to understand WHY, before I invest any more cash. I know some folks say they love the cutter, and have no problems with Flexi starter, others hate them both. I am running Mac G4 osX10.4.11 & flexi8 v.2 starter & Pcut 630 24" also Keyspan usb/serial adapter, for stable data transfer. Max resolution & max packet size. All check boxes for other stuff are off. 1. on start up the pcut shows "pcut ct1200" does that mean something? the flexi has 4 drivers ct630, ct630f, ct630g, cr630f I have been trying to determine the difference and if one is better, flexi is not friendly in this attempt, it is a very slow and meticulous and time wasting process. Have been using ct630g. Sending small graphic cuts, everything is fine. When it is complicated, Not just a bigger cut, like 3 lines of 1" x 12" copy, the result is the same: it stops, stops cutting, stops cutting graphic and cuts a line to somewhere else. I cut with one hand near the "little red button" and both eyes on the cut in progress, no one should have to babysit a cutter. 2. sending a cut seems to lack real communication between the software and cutter. I have changed "handshake" to run on each of the three options doesn't seem to make a difference. 3. on one job, I cut the same 4 lines in two colors at 24". being careful to send only one line at a time, all 4 lines cut correctly. I change vinyl and used the exact same process; click to activate line in flexi screen, click cut, make sure cutter is on line, click send. With a weed boarder, all 4 lines on the second go did not cut a 1" section near the center, I inspected the cutter and bed and vinyl, no reason not to cut. Note the "no cut" area includes the weed boarder top and bottom. 4. on another job, I tried to cut 2 lines at 24" and got the first line, and 4 1/2 letters of the second line. the cutter stopped = "waiting" // this makes me think the data was all sent before the cutter was ready for it / and or didn't hold the streaming data = data was lost. ? 5. on another job, I cut one line at 24" and got the first word, two letters and a line cut to the last word which cut. aka it cut a straight line instead of a word and a half. (note, see #3, did not miss the cut on this one ) 6. I did get a demo of SignCutPro, will be testing with paper and a pen to save vinyl, have to send some of the same files and see if I get the same results. You know, this is the best Forum that I have found, most help, most real answers, least arrogant baloney. I just want any of the helpful ones that happen to read this to know how much I (and others) appreciate the useful help provided here. in sample photo, I markered the cut portions for see-ability:

And also, once the blade depth is set, you shouldn't need to readjust it every time you change the blade, just push the pin on top until the blade protrudes. grab it, turn the holder upside down and drop in the new blade, the magnet will grab it and you are done. I have two holders, one for 60 and one for 45 dig blades, the only time an actual adjustment is needed is when a job calls for thicker material. (remember to adjust it back before you start cutting thin material again )

I dont think signblazer for mac is available anymore, if it is (let me know where) try it first - see if it does what you want. Flexi starter is loved by some & hated by others, it has some drawing features that dont mean much, and has been giving me fits by cutting errantly. SignCutPro is about the same price as flexi jr, has not drawing features, but claims to be very proficient in cutting = use dedicated drawing program to sent graphics to signcut. I dont have it, but am getting the trial to test out. Two problems: one; cutting software for Mac is extremely sparse. two; cheap cutters like the PCUT require better programming in the cut software. (and flexi Pro is about $2000, way out of my budget.)

Exactly in fact the plotter comes with a serial cable, just plug that into the cutter - keyspan into the serial - keyspan usb into the computer. And as Kimon said in another post, it is not the through put aka usb2 vrs usb1, but the "clean data" required by Mac pc system, that msdos pc systems can tolerate.

Take apart for Pcut :: Manual by Karl The display panel on top: Typically the display unit will not need to be removed, but ... Two screws in back must be removed to allow top to swing open, one on each side (it only lifts up 2 inch for space to use the ink pen when plotting). Lift the top plate up until the cable on right side is at its limit, it is shorter than it should be so be careful not to cause it to unplug. Then the screws on the bottom of the top plate into the display unit, the 3 in back are longer, the 3 in front are shorter, DO NOT MIX THEM UP -- the long screw will penetrate the display unit if used in the front! The right side cover needs to be removed to disconnect the display unit

thanks Paco that gives a pretty good map of how to get there, should be the same in most drawing programs too.

Hmmm, yes, if someone has experience manually contour cutting it would be a great help to have some detailed step by step. I have been thinking about it, but haven't tried it yet. just knowing the basic steps needed would be a great start. some photos and specifics would be excellent! signs used to be "easy" just lay it out and paint the letters anyway ya want. now its all high tech, plastic ink, and layers of vinyl. eh

What I really want in a new low end cutter P Cut 630: NEED show correct driver designation // ct 630/ ct 630G/ ct 630F ?? NEED to cut slower than 50, the range is 50 - 80 on the display NEED Ram Upgrade NEED light strip under the cutting hood NEED extra wheel mechanism, the

serious question, why does it have to be a physical firmware chip replacement? I have had several items, like modem, computer, and such that the mfg sent a digital firmware patch program that I just run it and the item is firmware upgraded. is the chip being used not rewritable? The problem we, the users, are having is: along with a larger sign, the customer wants some directional or hours type signage, too few to be cost effective in screen printing. or we are cutting for screen printing, & need the ability to cut small .

If you web search (google) for " images, iron worker " you will find a ton of free images to wade through. Finding something "just right" usually takes some time and effort. If you want to have a selection of vector art on hand, you could buy a clip art collection. They are fairly cheap nowdays. If you are lucky you may find folks on this site that have a few images that are right on, or at least close to what you have in mind. In your graphics program there should be a "trace" feature, this creates a vector copy of a bitmap image. Usually you need to spend some time cleaning up and adjusting the image that is traced. but then you add it to you collection for next time. good luck