NatDragon

To take this one step further, I have done back and side windows no problem. Now I am looking at doing the top of a windshield. Being that the windshield is curved and a graduated angle on the sides, I am thinking of taking butcher paper to make a template. I'm pretty sure the dimensions are available, but I have not been able to locate them. Is there a particular site that offers car window templates?

Pouring through different forums and I can't seem to find a general consensus on the size of lettering for sleeves. I did read on one post they use 3". Does anyone out there think this is a good size? The customer wants the letters stacked and a couple of kid's names are too long to make them 3" and fit down the sleeve. What do I do in this case? Reduce the size of all the names so the long names fit or just make those two names' lettering less than 3"? Thanks

Thanks!

Thanks! I set them all up as 1.50" stacked. That puts the 2 long names at 15.50" length. Would you still keep the short names at 1.50"? Surprisingly, the M and L sleeves seem to be pretty close to the same length, I have read some put the names centered and some put them 2" down from the shoulder seem, opinion?

Thanks. I save as an EPS and then open with SC.

I am ready to go out of my mind! I'm pouring over this subject, trying all the suggestions, and it's looking like I need a "Text from Illustrator to SignCut for Dummies" tutorial!!!! My cutter is flipping out and cutting all kinds of crazy things when I try to cut text! Shapes, no problem. I know I have the letters converted to paths - compound paths. Is that the problem? I've tried them with and without shapes and fills. Could anyone just point me in the right direction? There are a few different answers here and I don't get whether I need to do all of them or if they are just different methods to achieve the same thing.

Wow! That's great! Are you using a teflon pillow for the vinyl on your seams, they really look good!

[/img] I don't know what setting I have messed up, but now I am getting a little v-cut at the ending of the blade strokes as is evident in this picture. Can anyone tell me what I have adjusted incorrectly? I have a Master Cutter XY-300P, not a refine, but this was as close to the category as I saw. Thanks~

FABULOUS!!!

I have 2 Hix presses. One is over 20 years old! I have to use a laser heat sensor because the gauge is no longer accurate, but other than that it is a champion! I even e-mailed the Hix corp with a question about it recently and had an answer the next day! Now that's great customer service! There are lots of good machines on the market now, you might want to figure out what style will fit in your price range. Clamshells take up less space, but the swingaways allow more work room for layout.

I ordered a roll of mousepad material to cut some custom shapes. I know the cutter will do the thickness as I checked the specs before ordering. Just wondering if others have any advice or experience before I delve into the research and experimentation? Use a 60' blade? Downforce amount? Any help from experience would be greatly appreciated!

It is easily available by the yard in 1/8" and 1/4"

WOW! Fantastic! You are doing this in vinyl???

We have one! Love it! Love the retro styling! Go for it!

You might be interested in hopping to the t-shirt forum, there are a lot of good explanations there: http://tbiz101forum.com/index.php?board=8.0 or http://www.t-shirtforums.com/direct-garment-dtg-inkjet-printing/t48646.html Not sure what you intend on printing, but there are a lot of good discussions over there as well.

Good thinking Oakwood, I remember reading that too, but I never checked into it since I already run separate dedicated printers. That would seem like it should be a cost savings.

Like this or fancier?

I am sure someone will be able to give you the technical side, but the hands on side is they are two completely different processes. Sublimation is applied to porous surfaces like specially coated substrates or polyester coated clothing. When you apply heat the pores open up to accept the gaseous ink and then as it cools the pores close and hold the ink in making the print very durable and long lasting. The chromablast is a chemical reaction between the ink and the coating on the transfer paper that causes it to bond to each other therefore it can be applied to cotton instead. It leaves kind of a residue that washes off after also achieves a very durable print. You need two printers for the separate processes. The printers are inexpensive, but the inks are very pricey for both. I use sublimation primarily for hard substrates and the chromablast (and vinyl etc.) for shirts. Hope this helps!

Wow! I think that is outstanding work!

Just a side note. I'm not sure what you are transferring or what size the shirts are; but often daycares love these shirts donated for them to use as paint shirts over clothes for the children in the classroom. I try and never have a shirt go to waste, I find some way to use it.

I am only able to do letter size with dye sub. I have never had the need to do any bigger because of the process. I would love to help you, but it sounds like FutureSgtsWife may have a newer system. I have only had two dye sub printers and never had a problem with the inks; however, I have heard really good things about the new gels.

Nice compilation!

I wish there were some kind of logo royalty clearing house. Some way to download the logo legally for small shops. Like at some of the art websites. I mean it is free advertising for the company they shouldn't get their panties in such a knot over it. They should have some way where you say pay them $1 for the use (more if for several uses). I have only started doing decals, but it doesn't seem like you make a ton of profit on them; however, being on a car in public with potentially thousands or more people seeing it, the name recognition surely makes the manufacturer money, how can that be bad for the company? How about making the plaintiff prove that the defendant had intent to harm by producing a couple of stickers?

I am having a real problem weeding small letters. It seems like there are a lot of "catches" on the letters. I am using a new 60

Thanks for the guidelines, I'll give it a shot tomorrow!