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Everything posted by Cal

  1. Tapered glasses and stuff

    I have not run into this on squares, I do not think I have done any work that involved a square or frame around the work on glassware. Designs that have been close to that, however, were ok when the arch was applied. Now a circle on the other hand - is tougher to get to that "just right point" where it still "looks to be a circle. I learned that the hard way when I did a Yeti mug for my SIL. I think it looks pretty gosh awful - but she is happy with it and uses it everyday. I cringe every time I see it! On second thought - I guess I don't cringe so bad that I would go out and buy her a new Yeti Probably should, might be better advertising than what she carries around now!
  2. Some people just keep on...

    3barefoot - there is a learning curve on computers and software. This is part of the learning curve on customer service and working with people. I suspect that we have all been there & done that. My advise would be to listen to your gut and cut this one loose. Yes, she will likely poor mouth you and cost you a couple jobs. Likely this would be the outcome if you did the job. Just my $.02 YMMV
  3. Tapered glasses and stuff

    You are correct that if the taper is different the arch would different. Now, will your program calculate for a wine glass? Curves instead of straight tapers? I have so far drawn the line and for the most part stayed away from curved stuff.
  4. Tapered glasses and stuff

    Mike, if you are going to get into this and do a bunch of glassware - rather than measuring the glass and marking it, I determine the center of the design and the centered height to where on the glass I want it placed. Then if there is a 1-2" space above the design I simply cut my decal out with a 1-2" margin above the top. Then I just apply the decal with the top edge of the decal even with the rim of the glass. Clear as mud? As a quick example, the design is 2" tall and I want centered 3.5" from the top. 3.5" to center of glass minus 1" center of decal = a sandblast decal with a 2.5" margin at the top. Side and lower margins are unimportant as they will be taped off anyhow. The 2.5" top margin aligns with the rim of the glass where I start when I apply the decal. FWIW, I design in AI. On 16 oz. glasses I try to stay in the 2.25" width range and after doing the design do a 2% arch; import to SCALP and position the design on the grid and put the box around it so my top margin is correct. It took some trial and error to get the 2%
  5. Tapered glasses and stuff

    @bikemike - if you had not distorted the vector, what your sandblasted image would have looked like would have been pretty much like the distorted image you have shown, a "smiling" bowtie. Don't ask me how I know One day I plan to go through the process you linked to above. For the last few years, and using the same 16 oz. glass with an approx. 2.25" wide design I find a 2* distortion works pretty good. A circular design now - that is a different animal to get it looking good. I have done a few and pretty much have to relearn the process each time.
  6. Tapered glasses and stuff

    Looks like a good find Mike. Thanks, Cal
  7. Welcome aboard Tirsh. Like s&d said, we need more info to get you going. I will say this though. Do not tell the cutter to "print", tell it to "cut". If you have a pen tool installed in the machine it will draw out your design when you tell it to "cut". Cal
  8. Vinyl systems evolution

    That sounds like a heck of a deal on a servo machine. Some conflicting info on their web site. This in the product description: Whether you're working with heat transfer vinyl or adhesive sign vinyl, the Vinyl Systems Evo will get the job done like no other. While this is in the Q&A section: Q: Good morning, why this machine isn't compatible with heat transfer materials? I saw it on eBay. Vinyl Systems Evo 28" Cutter Plotter - Contour Cutting DC Servo Motor Thank you Posted On: 10/2/2017 By: Robson A: Hi Robson, the Vinyl Systems Evo is an exceptionally powerful cutter that was originally made to cut all types of sign and decal vinyl as quickly and efficiently as possible. With its powerful servo motor, we noticed when tracking heat transfer vinyl, it could potentially fold a bit due to how thin the material's backing is. You can still cut heat transfer vinyl with this cutter but we would recommend using a cutting mat for a large design. Sign and decal vinyl already has a backing that is able to feed the vinyl back and forth without any issues so therefore, we would consider this cutter to work flawlessly on decal vinyl without any additional supplies. Cal
  9. Hello from South Dakota

    Welcome aboard Jennifer, Cal
  10. Western PA vinyl

    Nice work! Curious what you would have done differently on the tow truck though... Cal
  11. A big shout out

    to forum member @pshawny! I needed an assist with a graphic yesterday and Shawn stepped up and helped get me moving in the right direction - big time. Shawn, I owe you one buddy! Cal
  12. Welcome aboard, and happy new year Times - In AI, I presume that you have simply typed your words. At that point you need to select "object and expand". That will convert your typed text to a vector. If you then arch the vector, you will need to "object and expand" again. At least I have to. Then save and see if VM will import the vector for you. Hang in there, it will become second nature for you. Cal
  13. Welcome aboard, LollyC, and happy new year to you. The above instructions will get you cutting in short order. I want to suggest to you that if your cutter has a pen tool, that you start using it as you begin working with your machine. It is quite often that I read from new users that they are frustrated and have wasted "tons" or "yards" of vinyl trying to get a design from screen to cut vinyl. I always run new designs through the plotter first before committing to vinyl. Cal
  14. happy happy

    And, in all ways, prosperous...
  15. Oracal 631 sticking issue

    Is it freshly painted? Did you clean the wall first? If you did, with what? If you are sqeegeeing it, did you apply it wet? Depending upon the size of the decal you might lay the sqegee down and just use your thumb or a tennis ball. A sqegee is good on glass but not many walls are as smooth as glass. Cal
  16. Moving on....

    Good luck, hope you have a great 2018 to start off! Cal
  17. Printing in order

    Wow! You might look into A. upping your cut speed B. reducing the number of nodes in your designs and C. make sure you are not cutting any part of the design a second (or third) time. As an example, a circle or oval shape can be cut with 4 nodes. Any more than that creates extra "work" for the cutter. And welcome aboard, glad to have you here, Oh, one last thing, Ms Skeeter is a lady and a real helpful one at that! Cal
  18. New Years' Resolutions Thread

    I've not resolved anything yet, but then I have a couple days to think about it... I guess I could think about not being such a procrastinator for starters!
  19. And right there you go @Dolomite41. An offer you can't (and shouldn't) refuse. Primal is a good guy with a heap more experience than myself. But, since you asked... it does not matter where you load the vinyl as long as you have the pressure rollers over the feeders (not even sure what those things are called). A 50' long design!!! The only thing I have done even close was a set of pin stripes for my truck. Those were maybe 18'. I used Sign Cut step by step cutting on my SC cutter. Results were not saleable, but ok for my use. As an experiment I loaded a design into AI and saved as an SVG (I usually save as an AI or EPS). I then imported into SCALP and it loaded immediately. It was a smaller design, but complicated. Not sure what you are running into unless it is those 50' long designs? I very much recommend that you give Primal a shot.. Cal
  20. Cool Mr. Joel - I have always use the "by guess & by gosh" method - and practice runs... Cal
  21. Welcome aboard Dolomite and congrats on the new cutter. What type of projects do you have planned for it? I will try to answer your questions, others may do a better job of explanations though... 1. You size the project to the vinyl (or paper). If you look at my pic, the project has the blue circles with various arrows, this shows the outside of the selected artwork. Look at the tool bar on the upper right labled "Properties". Under "Position & Size" you find the "X" & "Y" axis which shows where the object is placed on the workspace grid. Below that are boxes labeled "W" & "H" for width and height of the project. Using my project as an example, the outside measurements are 4.325" wide by 3.734" tall. If either of those measurements are larger than your paper you are in trouble. You can resize your project by using the little up & down arrows or simply deleting the numbers in the box and typing the size you want. The "keep proportions" box under the size will sync the measurements so changing one will change the other - or not. You do not want to cut off the paper, doing so will cut into the cutting strip which can cause future problems for you. I have never cut plain paper, but I think you use a cutting mat under it if you do. 2. I do not know of any way to speed this process up, and really not sure what you are referring to. When I finish a design in AI and hit save, I can immediately import it into SCALP and cut. Not any hold up in time... 3. If AI asks about a dpi I just use default. I have never seen it ask though so I am not sure of the question. I will have to look the next time I am in AI working. 4. My speed & pressure is 200/55 - that is on an older SC model. Cal
  22. Newbie in the house..

    Welcome aboard Tanya, Cal
  23. Hello from Montana!

    Welcome aboard, Cal
  24. Vinyl won't stick to glass #HELP#

    Welcome aboard Church504. A couple of questions I might ask, what is your experience level? I am guessing that you are fairly new to vinyl, not just this site. In addition to the tips listed above, how are you pulling the transfer tape off? You do not want to pull "up" on the tape, it will lift the decal. You want to "peel" the tape off. And maybe because I am right handed, I find it an easier peel when I go left to right on the decal. I do not know why exactly. YMMV. Also, how large is the decal? Inside or outside application? I will apologize in advance if you have plenty of experience and find the above elementary... Cal
  25. Welcome aboard Silverag, go ahead and step up to the SC cutter. It is a great machine that works well with Macs. Cal