kenimes

When you plug the cutter in to the computer via USB, it will be assigned a COM port #. Once you find which COM port # is assigned to the connection, you simply select that COM port # in the cutter setup of SignBlazer. It is not a printer as someone mentioned above, so it should never show up under Printers/ Devices using a driver. The cutting software itself has the cutter drivers, so just select the correct model in SB, and the correct COM port #, and you should be good to go. Also, you should be able to save your CS5 .ai files to an older version, without having to switch back to the actual older version of the software. Good luck

Sometimes the far pinch roller will get stuck on the screw preventing it from moving father to the side. If it is stuck, you can just pop it loose with a firm tap.

The top of the black blade holder should have gold and silver adjustment screws. Loosen the gold, then adjust blade depth with the silver, and then tighten the gold back down once adjusted.

Not familiar with the Pro 48 version of the Refine series, but the USCutter MH series worked fine by selecting the Roland PNC-1000 driver from the list in Flexi. No driver needed to be installed, Flexi already has this choice built in.

When you use the pen/ plotting attachment, and plot to paper, does it do the same thing? Could be the blade holder itself, or a loose carriage arm. Did you check to make sure the carriage is seated properly on the tracks?

Bad control panel, or loose wiring would be my first guesses. Could be wiring to the control panel itself, or to the motherboard. Also could be the motherboard shorting out if the pegs that hold her in place have snapped.

Ok- not related to sign making, sorry. Great community though, and thought I would ask. Any vehicle mechanics out there? Thanks!

Willie Nelson is one of my favs! More like Joe Diffe's "If the devil danced in empty pockets" after this repair though. :-\

Have you tried removing your cutting strip completely, and then cutting? With barely any blade exposed, you should not worry about damaging it without a cutting strip there, because if you do go all the way through your material, there will be hardly any blade left exposed to damage. The PCuts and LaserPoints- both made by Creation, had this problem. I spent countless hours working on machines that were sent in with this issue, and many of them could be resolved without a replacement part. Just timely trial and error with blade depth and cut pressure, until it was dialed in for that particular machine. Funny thing is, there was no exact pressure setting that worked on all of them, even with eyeballing the blade depth as consistantly as I could. Anyhow, if you are going GraphTec, you will never have to worry about something like this again. Good luck!

Thanks Rick, will do.

No other odd-ball idling issues, or rough running. Thanks Rick! It is a '96 Nissan Altima GXE kenimes@hotmail.com I live in North Seattle, but have an uncle with a big family Imes ranch down in your neck of the woods- out by Cinnebar/ Onalaska. Another uncle in Lacey on Pattison Lake. Make it down that way sometimes. Anyhow- really appreciate that. Also, appreciate everyone else offering suggestions and help! This community is still top notch! Car died again on the way to work, but this time, right next to an auto repair shop. Guy has been there for 28 years, so I think he knew a bit more than the turkeys at the Les Scwab tire shop that checked the alternator when they replaced the battery. He tested it right in front of me, and sure enough, it was only putting out about 8-9, when it should be closer to 14. So, I think the alternator is the actual culprit (fingers crossed). Had it been a short or wiring issue, or problem with the PCM/ECM- then we would be talking bigger $$. Thanks again!!

Ahh yes, I had an older Ford Ranger that had starter issues, and can remember many a time crawling under the truck to bang on it with a wrench. Turns out, one of the bolts was stripped, so it was not securely making contact upon start. Just checked, and I am fresh out of marshmallows, so no bon-fires until I get those replaced! Batt cables are as tight as can be on the posts, and sprayed with a lovely red goo- i'm thinking to prevent corrosion. Got the crap all over my hands.

Maybe contact support to make sure they sent you the correct style of replacement board first. As I remember, all connections should be accounted for if it is the correct board.

Needs a new carriage arm to replace the broken one. If this particular series of LaserPoint does not have the replaceable arm, then you may need to replace the whole carriage. Call support and tell them your carriage arm broke, and you cannot find where to order one online. They may need to pull one off of a dead machine, if possible.

Not too sure about that particular model. Have you checked with the company you purchased it from? If it is like the Creation units that USCutter sells, when you plug the USB cable in, it should show up under the Ports category of your Device Manager. It should also be assigned a COM port #, like 1, 2, 3, etc...but not 0.

More pressure, and less blade exposed usually helps. Takes a bit to get her dialed in to the correct pressure and blade depth, but once you do, it should be fine all the way across.

Way the sun was hitting the unit may have messed up the optical eye that reads the material when measuring. Wonder if you could have shaded it when it was acting up to get it to measure correctly...

Powering it off, then back on will reset it, if that is what you mean?

Which cutting program are you using? Has it always done this, or did it just start?

Oops- just noticed the typo in the thread title....should be Mechanics, not Mechnics. Der

Yea, my father is the same. Mechanic back in the day, but not so wise with the newer electrical stuff. Called him first... lol

New battery last week, and alternator tested fine when battery was replaced, but car died on the way to work today, while going 60mph on I-5. First the stereo went out, then dash lights got dim, then no more power. Coasted down the off-ramp and parked on a side street, and she would not turn over again- like a dead battery. Let it sit for a couple of hours, went back, and she did turn over, but barely. Weird thing is that when it died, even with the ignition off, and key out of it, the dash lights still flickered and I heard the clicking as if I were trying to start it. I am thinking a loose wire or short in the electrical system? 10a alt. fuse was OK, but I guess there is a bigger alt. fuse to check, just wont be able to search for it til I get home. Blah!

Hmmm, OK- thanks!?

Un-install and re-install the cutting program?

Our Dollar Tree now has frozen foods, but have yet to see one of these......jeez.