Jburns

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Jburns last won the day on June 1

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About Jburns

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    Advanced Member

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    Enduradecals.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver, CO
  • Interests
    Adobe CC & CS6, Omega 6.5CP FlexiSIGN-Pro 8.1, Coreldraw X6,
    Multiple Gerber Printers and Plotters, Gerber P2C 600, Vision and Signature engraving machines

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  1. welcome!!
  2. well, the Tripp-Lite above is the best adapter. But you can give your insignia another try- Either the driver came on a CD in the box, or you can go to the manufactures website and download it. Are you using "THE" serial cable that came with the machine? reason I ask there are two types - Null and straight. Most likely it needs the NULL cable.
  3. We really need to see the image in wire frame mode, to see the actual nodes. this will rule out your file. Your image above is filled mode. We think its the file because you state everything else cuts fine.
  4. You will have to check a few things to start: 1. make sure the USB-serial adaptor shows up in your device manager, and adaptor has the driver installed. (no yellow triangle warnings 2. check your software, make sure it has the proper port chosen (same as your converter).
  5. Can you post a short video clip?
  6. Hi Guys, So I use a Gerber Edge printer. The principle is thermal transfer- the ribbons are laser heated or transfered to the vinyl, then the shapes are contour cut with a plotter. They were more popular several years ago for sign shops, until the rise of solvent inkjets ( Roland, Mimaki, etc). Pros: basically no maintenance, can sit for months, and in most cases no lamination needed. Cons: width is smaller, photo quality graphics can't be achieved, and cost of resin ribbons higher than inks- (in most cases- I buy my color ribbons used). They are workhorses, and will provide 95% of whats required for basic decals. In the last three years I have owned about ten including the smaller plotters (GSx, GS15 and Envision): buying, selling, repairing, etc. They do require a RIP software ( Flexi or Gerber preferred). Send me a PM if you have more questions.
  7. I wrapped these up today. I have had some ideas, and finally put them into reality. I am really liking the back cut ( similar to Perf cut) function- decals just pop out the back.
  8. Looks great- for grounding I have ran automotive 12 or 14 gauge wire with the little connectors that are crimped- hard to explain without an image.. but you remove a lower screw on the cutter, sand thru paint- place connector attached to wire - the re-insert screw. Other end of wire goes to grounding source. I have been using these - it's an aquarium grounding probe- connected to your outlet. The prongs are plastic that go in the outlet
  9. I agree with Dakota... also that little "j" is the blade setting it's orientation before cutting the design. mine sets that "j" outside the design before it starts- just to the right outside the origin. I don't have your manual- specifics may be in there
  10. welcome from Denver!
  11. I think the mimaki's are nice machines - BUT the support here is much better for Roland or Graphtec- parts, blades, rollers, tech support-. I would go Roland or graphtec and be done with it.
  12. Man I just finished it for the OP in eps and AI formats -- Primal is right though!!
  13. You may also try this: ENTER ....................... It will define the settings. The plotter is reset by pressing the [ORIGIN] key and this key simultaneously in the first screen of the MENU mode (MENU screen). It will display current cutting area when the [ENTER] key is pressed in READY status.
  14. sorry to hear that- those solvent heads aren't cheap. I have a spare thermal head from a machine I parted out. I can't justify paying the manufacturer 3,500 plus to put a new one in when I have the svc manual.
  15. my guess----I image its because the more reliable serial port sends only cut data. when you had on USB- the software would send the design, and more parameters like speed. So now you can try setting the speed from the cutter itself- not the software-- maybe that will solve it.