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Posts posted by GraphxNMore
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Yes, use knockout.... but remember to copy and pace your letters first.
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All you need to know.
And I wouldn't go back and forth. Sublimation ink is too expensive. You'll have to refill the tubes every time you flush, and that's a massive amount of ink. A second printer is way cheaper than buying ink.
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You can also grab the arrows in the middle of either the right hand side or bottom edge of the image selection window. Click, hold and drag.
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Why are you printing if you have rolls of vinyl? Are you doing color?
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We've been strongly considering buying one of these. We've been outsourcing for a few years. I think we can justify it by the added business we'll pick up.
What inks are installed?
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Recreate the P. The rest is one of the Adobe fonts, italicized.
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Look at "Multi cut". It should say "off". It's in the window when you click "cutter" to cut.
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It's a bad trace. You'll be way more time ahead to just recreate. It's simple text with a rectangle.
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I'll look at it, give me a few minutes.
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Capone GG also fits, but commercial.
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Bellerose
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Click view->show outlines only.
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There's no minus front in CS6. I send the smaller one to back, but minus back does nothing in the program. I get a message saying groups... yada yada.... this function may have no result....and it doesn't.
There's a subtract, but it yields no result either.
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One more question.... When sublimating coffee mugs, I need a rectangle at times for a guide. If I draw a white rectangle and add stroke, the white "fill" area always leaves a slight pinkish box. I've made it true white and even turned fill off, nothing stops it. I tried to do a minus back using two rectangles, but it won't do it. I can have the exact desired frame in 6 seconds using Scalp. Not sure what I'm missing. Clipping mask won't work either.
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That's what I needed. Thanks!
( I never messed with it there in fear of screwing my sublimation settings, I figured there'd be a setting somewhere else)
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When you "show print tiling"..... the box that shows your 'paper edges'.
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How do I adjust it to be 8.5x14 instead of 8.5x11? (CS6)
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Are they the same? They look identical. The SG400 is just supposed to be a faster version of the Ricoh.
EDIT: I see a difference now, The electrical connection is vertical on one and horizontal on the other.
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13 minutes ago, Dakotagrafx said:How long have you let it set unused with the new inks, sounds interesting but I have gone 8 months on sawgrass gel inks with no problems, so following your progress
I did a couple items in November. We put our house up for sale, boxed everything up. Got moved in late June. I've done a few things here & there since moving in. Another thing I've noticed with the refillable cartridges is the amount of time from powerup to ready status is considerably shorter.
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2 hours ago, Dakotagrafx said:don't get personal -
the OP hasn't been on for 10 days to see suggestions - I see you dredged this up 8 days after they had last checked the forum making this appear to just be pot stirring looking for a reaction.
Just an observation
On an old note is the aftermarket ricoh inks still working good after 3+ months?They actually have more vivid colors. Another thing I've discovered is I can reduce temperature to about 330 degrees on most items. I still use the profile Conde set up.
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3 hours ago, MZ SKEETER said:You don't even need to try full version Flexisignpro. Even cheap bare bones Flexistarter which I paid $99 for and I cut with, has a better layout and workflow than SCALP. Flexistarter has the same layout as Flexisignpro. I have tried both, Have you GraphxNMore? And I would never go back it to that work flow and layout that SCALP has. Scalp 5 still has that same layout. All you have to do is look at the Craftedge site and youtube videos to see that. It's the same layout that I received.
I've tried them all, and it's opinion. If he likes the layout, then try to help him. If you don't know the software, then scroll on past the thread. It actually makes you look like an a$$ when you get on here and basically belittle people because they don't use "professional" equipment & software. Yeah, that whole "my graphtec" looks like another jab.
But you get on here and always bad mouth it, especially since the namesake of this forum don't push it any more.
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On 9/24/2019 at 8:41 PM, MZ SKEETER said:I was given Scalp by UScutter, before it was included with the cutters years back, to try out, as well as other regular users on here. My cutter Graphtec FC 7000, was not even listed as a cutter on it, and the max cutting the software would do is 72" x 72" which made it worthless to me. I cut very large graphics, up to 16ft long. But I did look at it, and thought the software was a joke. After using Flexi software for years, which is a professional software, I can attest, that SCALP was for hobby cutters. I don't think the Graphtec FC is still listed on it. Someone on here tried to use an FC with it, as it stated Graphtec, and their resolution was way off. It would only cut the image at 50%
So you admittedly tried it "years back", yet you continue to trash it, thread after thread??
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On 9/8/2019 at 7:38 PM, MZ SKEETER said:On any vinyl cutter, you must push the Orgin button on the machine. . That is 0/0 and where the cutter starts measuring the design from. Most cutters start cutting, where the design was originally designed at. I Use a Graphtec, and Flexi software. I cut very large designs. My cutter may move several feet, before it starts cutting, but it comes back to finish the rest of the design at the front. Is there a reason that you choose Scalp software over Vinyl Master software? Scalp was created for hobby cutters like the Cricut. Vinyl Master was created for the sign industry business. Just throwing that out there.
Say whatever you want, but SCALP has all the features you need to do any job out there. We use ours with a Titan 2 and do complex 4' decals all the time.
Just throwing that out there.
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Man, that's real dang close. A few curved edges here or there. Nothing I can't straighten though. Much appreciated!
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Wow.... you mean a trademarked image made it past admins??