GraphxNMore

Who all uses one for htv? How is fine detail? I'm CURRENTLY running a Titan2, but I'm almost ready to throw it in the trash. I expected a lot more from an $800 machine.

I'm using CS6. I know there's an easy way to do it. When I do a trace, it looks like crap. I need the black completely gone in case I need the "text" in a different color and on various color substrates in the future. Any direction is greatly appreciated.

How do you arc the upper & lower like “FLIGHTLINE”? (for those that don’t know)

I have two computers with two different versions.... one is like 4.042 one is 4.046. I’ve “checked for updates” on both, both say “up to date”. Lol

Is there a trial version of Flexi out there? I can't seem to find a download site I 100% I trust. Having issues with a second Titan 2, so I want to try a different cut program. Vinyl master and SCAL4P do pretty much the same thing. Installing SignCut as I type this out.

Another thing is speed. The slowest speed on this thing is still pretty fast, especially for 1/4" text. IMG_0238.MOV

Yes. This is actually the second one we've had. USCutter warranted the first one after throwing everything new at it. You put HTV on a mat and it does fine. If you run it through without a mat, it bunches up when advancing. Makes a mess with small cuts. They both do the same thing. The space between the roller and blade is 15/16 of an inch. Our SC is a lot closer. Vinyl doesn't have enough room to wrinkle.

If you figure out a way to prevent the HTV from bunching up between the pinch roller and blade tip, please let me know. This is a major flaw I've noticed with mine. And I've had two of them. .The space between from the contact point of the wheel and the blade is dern near a full inch. That allows the HTV to wrinkle when vinyl advances forward. It cause major headaches when cutting small detail. My SC doesn't bunch, but the stepper won't handle small stuff. I'm about one more bunch of wasted vinyl from demanding a refund/credit toward a Graphtec.

Sweet. I tried gimp once, I think it's actually still on our dinosaur PC. LOL I'll give this a try. Much appreciated.

Gonna do all sublimation or printed transfers.

Thanks guys. I was hoping I could use their file so everything would match. No way I can match all the "antiquing". Lol

First off, let me apologize for digging up an old thread; but I wouldn't if it wasn't still an issue with the Titan 2. First off, you can't change offset for a test cut. Offset on the Titan 2 can only be changed in the cut software. I bought one, cut great for a while then went to crap. US Cutter sent 2 mother boards, carriage, etc etc etc. I was using SCAL4P, Vinyl Master, Sign Blazer.... wasn't a software issue. So they sent me a refund and I bought another cutter. This one cut great then all of a sudden went to crap. Incomplete cuts, places here or there (never the same place) where it APPEARS to be an offset issue, but it's never consistent therefore I do not believe it to be offset. New blades, pressure, etc..... nothing changes it. It only does it on small objects. It's like it is running to fast to keep up, even on the slowest speed setting. I have complained to them about the pinch rollers being further away from the blade, which causes slight bunching of the vinyl (HTV). But it also looks like crap with adhesive vinyl. My SC cutter will look just as good at times. I expected a lot more from a machine that cost 5 times as much. EDIT: Let me add that when it all of a sudden started cutting like crap, I had to up the offset to 0.60 just to get a square to cut without rounding corners. BOTH machines did the same thing.

Have a customer wanting 12X24 coroplast signs. They want a 1" border all the way around, 1/2" inside the edge. First one went on without a hitch, now I've blown though at least SEVEN consecutive border pieces. I have app tape secured with no bubbles, get everything aligned (which is an ordeal in itself), then start on one side and start applying. When I get to the end, I am sure to help it pull away from the liner so it won't wrinkle underneath itself, then it happens. There's a wrinkle, bubble or something that causes excess slack on one side or the other. I'm about at wit's end with this thing. Any ideas??

We had a cheapy a couple years and it almost burnt our house down. The control unit shorted and turned the platen on heating the pad until it started smoldering. Currently own a US Cutter press. Had it around a year.

So I'm sublimating some cups & travel mug. I've had this issue in the past, solved it, but forgot how. The problem is there's a faint color square around the images. Whats the best way of eliminating this? Been a year since I did it.

Just snooping around to see if there's any tips I could use and I came across my post. I remembered what I did. Window>Image trace. Click color, then full tone. Open advanced and check ignore white. Then trace.

Prayers for anyone affected by the rains the past few days. SW Missouri, NW Arkansas. North central Arkansas into Missouri. Now it NE Arkansas' turn. Looks like the flooding will be less the further east it moves. I saw some horrific sights from friends on Facebook. There's several TOWNS with electricity going in & out.

If you're comparing VM Cut to SCALP4, there's no comparison. VM Cut is about as basic design software there is. Now you can pay more $$$ to upgrade to higher levels (which is a gripe about SCAL I've heard on here, but to go from SCAL to SCALP is only a one time $49 option, so lost do it on the front end anyway) to get the same features in SCALP4.

Post a pic of your screen when you're trying to change colors, please.

If it's going on a race car, I'd say the image will outlast the crush damage.

Before too long he will have spent enough to buy a press.....

Power driver mysteriously disappeared. Tech supports thinks maybe a windows update is to blame.

It's not burnt. It's bluish to dark gray.

What do y'all do about blacks not being anywhere near black? I thought peeped it was due to expired ink, per customer support, so I bought 2 new cartridges. Flushed heads 10 times (they said 7), but still isn't deep black. I'm using illustrator CS6, and have verified RGB are all at 0. Very frustrating, especially when there's $500 worth of work pending. And yes, mine is sleepy a lot too. Lol

1: You don't necessarily need a continuous ink system. 2: The 9in1 press is great for starting up, but not near as reliable a the dedicated, name brand presses. You need accurate and consistent temps with sublimation. Plus, they're made of cheap components. We almost burnt our house down with one. 3: Anything you sublimate will have to have a polyester based finish. You can't just buy a tumbler from wal-mart and sublimate onto it.