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Is the OP possibly referring to scaling/resolution. Like when you design a 1" square and it cuts a 1.1" square. If so see this thread. http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/48656-cutter-cutting-decals-slightly-too-large/

From linked Orafol 631 product page above. I had never read this before. "Allowing graphics extended time after application before removing application tape allows adhesive further time to create a full bond (up to 24 hours)." Regardless of the outcome of this situation, I learned something today to keep in my bag of tricks.

Jersey smooth ladies polo with "stainshield" and was going to do try Semo Plastisol transfers. Semo say's it will not work. Has anyone gotten this combo to work Or what are my transfer options? Before I look for a embroidery shop. "Customer" wants half work t-shirts for shop and half Polo for front end staff. Was trying to do this all off the same batch of plastisol transfers, just a 3 color pocket logo. http://www.jiffyshirts.com/jerzees-437W.html

Purchased one extra shirt and played around with time, temp and pressure (Just a pocket logo). It took some adjustments but the test shirt held-up after 3 wash/drying cycles. So pressed up the requested 15. And off they go into the world................... I'll update if I get a report of premature wear. Overall I really like the Plastisol transfers from Semo.

One way to find out for sure.

I have searched pretty good & have found it hard to beat USCutter prices and the one time a issue came up it was handled properly. I also try to save up a order to maximize on the $9.99 flat shipping. EDIT and PS. Do not overlook the less expensive cost of the smaller size rolls (length & width) Yes you will save approx $30 on a say 30"x10yrd vs 30"x50 (approx .20c cheaper per linear foot for the 50yrd roll, .20x150=$30) But do out some math. Say you want to stock 10colors in 30"x50yrd 10 at $107.25 (colors are $130 a roll) at the end of all this you save 10x$30= $300 but you have had to invest $795 over the cost of 10x$27.75=$277.50 (30"x10yrd) not worth the $795 additional investment in my opinion. I have seen most of the smart guys on here (NOT ME) keep 50yrd rolls of white, black and maybe a silver then 10yrd rolls of any other color they want to stock. Also the cost per square foot of 24" vs 30" is almost identical (less than 1/2 cent difference) So you could lower the investment cost to 10x$21.99 = $219.99 (for 24"x10yrd) A little planning and a 24" roll goes a long way. Just saying, or was that too much...........and waiting for the professionals to correct me..............

Greenstar will adhere just fine. It just has a low outdoor lifespan. My experience in Soothern California as car window decals (my family & friends) Greenstar has only lasted max 1 year before discoloring and/or cracking. Oracal 651 is the lowest cost vinyl I would "sell" as a car window decal. And for on paint Oracal 751. I do use Greenstar outdoor for temporary signs or hobby projects. I like the outdoor mat finish black & white for indoor signs and plaques. Has the nice glare free finish but has a good full adhesive. (sell lots of this to crafting groups)

http://www.jiffyshirts.com/anvil-882L.html I just did 10 of these for a ladies group doing a "Mud Run" no ribs/smooth. Descent quality and they have a pink.

Thank-You all for the efforts. I enjoy checking in a couple times a day and see whats going on.

Totally makes sense, thanks for the factual clarification.

I only use it for 631. Why do they call it...... "The semi-transparent face film and special high-tack adhesive used in ORATAPE HT55" http://www.uscutter.com/ORATAPE-HT55-Decorative-Film-Transfer-Tape-for-631-Vinyl

A few things..... Oracal HT55 application tape is made for flat/mat finished vinyl like 631 drywall safe & 8810/8510 etched glass. It may be so/so for normal glossy 651, 751 etc. But may have too high a tack and want to hang on to your decal after applied, especially to a smooth surface like a car. For autobody decals I would use Greenstar classic medium, you are going to be using lots if doing full side body decals. (good to see you got a app tape roller, it will become your friend) You said you needed to still order App tape, But your top starter kit includes a 12" and a 6" roll. They are only 100' sample rolls, but that is plenty for you to "play with" while you get the hang of the hole process. Ow and PS, Good luck with the "Private work only" part! As soon as it "leaks out" you will be cutting for others.

Also if you had been using "cut selection only" it would be cutting only one layer. Probably the top one.

Funny story and video (worked for me on FireFox)

No experience with Razorcut, Scalp is a low end basic cutter software. I my opinion,it is just fine for basic font and shape design. In the long run you would be better suited to learning a true design software, AI, Corel, Inkscape, etc. But SCALP has gotten me pretty far for just basic stuff. Maybe ask for a upgrade from 3 to the current version 4Pro that is a descent improvement if you go with the SC. PS: after reading your last post with outsourced job cost, I would spend the $$ and invest in a Titan 3. Your return on investment will be quickly recovered.

I cut vinyl and HTV .25" and less with my stepper MH (I would not recommend the current version 2 of). But the advise is sound for a economy cutter, under .5" and long runs are going to show its weaknesses. But that is not to say with lots of trial and error it can not be done. IE Patience. Get to know your cutter and how to adjust it for what your are doing. For smaller items or something with small detail I switch to a (pre-setup in a additional blade holder) 60deg http://www.cleancutblade.com/ (like having Michelin's on a Hyundai) and play with the cut speed, pressure and blade protrusion. I learned here to make a sample cut image (.25" circle in a box) and test run that over and over trying different setting and watching the results. People are often not willing to take the time to see what each adjustment does and learn from it, they just use some base online recommended setting and never explore the limits. And as such do not know how to adjust for poor results. In that size if it cuts correctly "tough to weed" will be the same from a economy or high end cutter. SO it is good you are asking the questions now. If you get a cutter, stick around and start reading, this forum is packed with info from some very experienced individuals (not me)

Im Win7 & SCAL4P but on a v1MH. Never noticed it. Maybe, try a little diagnostics. Does it also do it with another font? Does it do it when cutting shapes? Does it do it when using you SC "test" cut? Does it do it when using a pen? At this/your level of software & hardware I have come to expect little issues that need to be worked thru from time to time. Each time I figure one out I'm that much better at this stuff. (also why I hang out here and read a lot) PS, I do remember reading that some cutters "tap" the blade to set its direction before a cut starts but I think it was off the material & not during a cut run.

I can only guess that what was "removed" was everything I was thinking.

You need to draw a selection box around all objects or letters you want joined then (as stated above) Path>Union.

In your text adjustment box (right side) see if "Tracking" is set to 0% or very low. Should be 100% at program start up. Also restarting SCALP should reset tracking to default 100%.

Select first node > hold shift > select second node > Path > Close Path.

I use a plastic letter opener or just a snap knife in a designated front face grove. NOTE: SCALP (I'm assuming based on MH cutter) does have a "End action" adj/tab and one of the options is "Advance amount" I set mine to auto bring material forward to that designated grove for quick trimming without hunting for your last cut section. (nipped off the top of a couple decals before I learned this) Mark that designated grove on the edges with vinyl or silver sharpie. Mine is well worn from dragging snap knifes over it before I learned here of the plastic letter openers.

SC is a good choice and a nice starter pack. I was surprised how easy it was to recoup my investment.

Welcome, from the west coast. I do about the same (car decals & misc) and have gotten pretty far with just this forum and a sprinkling of YT videos. Start reading up, and do search's for words or techniques you do not understand. What equipment will you be starting on?

It has to be on the Scap mat to cut, anything that over hangs the design "mat" will not cut. Then you either need to rotate your design to vertical before cutting or select "Cutter" - "Mat Orientation" (also in the right hand "DOCUMENT" box) to change how it sends it to the cutter. After hitting cut tab use the preview image to confirm your cut orientation. Then end of this thread has pics and tips that may help. http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/48906-cutting-outside-of-mat-size-used-on-computer/page-2