MZ SKEETER

If you read the tech data for Oracal 651, it says use thermal printing. Print Compatibility Thermal Transfer (gloss finish only). https://www.orafol.com/products/americas/en/technical-data-sheet/oracal-651-intermediate-cal-id3542-technical-data-sheet-americas-en.pdf Forum members can only give you advice, it's up to you in the end, whether you take that advice or not.

A Tripplite Keyspan Adapter is what you need to connect to your laptop, with a null modem cable. Tripplite is the brand name that works with a vinyl cutter. Find the best price. Download driver, reboot computer. The USB part of cable goes is in your USB port of computer.. Connect the end of Null modem cable to your Keyspan Adapter, then the other end of Null modem cable to your vinyl cutter. , go into device manager, find com port number, I must be between 1-4. The go into your cutting software set up and choose the com port number. They must match. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Keyspan-High-Speed-USA-19HS/dp/B0000VYJRY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=L3BIJ9BYB5XP&keywords=keyspan+usb+to+serial+adapter&qid=1657331931&sprefix=keysp%2Caps%2C261&sr=8-4 Sign up and enjoy this forum.

ok ,,glad you got it.

You should be able to export the file as an .eps file. Change the drop box at the bottom of page in signblazer export to Encapsulated Postscript ( .eps). Export it to documents or where ever you save your files. Import into VM.

BINGO!!!! You win. That's the first thing that got my attention, when I looked at that photo. 8 different blacks, there is really like 9 or 10. Out of room on black squares., which is why those parts are missing.

removed by me. *

I don't even use a CLEAN CUT blade. I have been using Seiki Blades since 2008, I can get around 9 months use out of them. Both 45 and 60 degree. I cut almost daily. 5 blades for around $25 FREE ship from Nevada. My niche' is large, very detailed designs. 8-16 ft long. We spent A LOT of time with that last guy, who claimed to have been cutting for 19 years, ONLY to find out, he had the blade holder in the wrong hole. This is why we ask a ton of questions. This is why we ask for pictures. People think they know it all. You would be surprised at the people who come here and "CLAIM" "I KNOW I have my blade depth correct", I am not going to change it, I have been cutting like this with my last cutter for years." only to find out they set it the depth of a credit card. Which is about 20 times too much blade exposed.. And what i say to those people. "GOOD LUCK, Contact your tech support. " I don't work for UScutter, I am just a member here, like you are. Nothing more. If I feel like answering a problem, I will, If I don't, I won't. You could also have a slight problem with the blade holder, possibly being off. Spares from Ebay work just fine. Many buy them from there. Never hurts to have a spare. I got my last from UScutters. "other" Ebay store for $10. Because there is so much out there still about using a credit card or post it notes, we stuck the instructions to the forum years back.

I had that written once, and removed it.. I try to give people a little credit that they do have it in the correct position in the carriage head, BUT the last Graphtec person that came here for help, had the blade holder in the front, cutting over the groove, and ready to throw his cutter out the window. Glad you posted it AGAIN. It crossed my mind again to post it, when the OP said he thought thicker vinyl would work better. Why? Thinner vinyl works better, not thicker. You would hope that people could see whether they are cutting over the groove or the teflon cutting strip. But I guess not, Said he been cutting for 19 years. Said worst cutter he ever ran. Blah blah blah. Nothing but user error. Those 2 holes are there for a reason.

I have no problem cutting very small details on designs, with either of my FC units. I can cut Avery chrome at .25 inch. TEXT no problems. (Any size smaller would not have enough adhesive to even stick properly long term.. ) Several of us on here were put to task to show a person who was using a value cutter, the difference between the quality of cuts between a Graphtec and a value cutter. He was sold right away. There are several photos. on this forum from Mr300s and Dakotagrafx showing how detailed and small a Graphtec will cut. Dakotagraphx, now has a FC9000. I have a FC7000-75 and a FC8000-75, (similar to the FC8600) Both cut equal. I only use bare bones Flexistarter as my cutting software, with a XP computer. No one was telling you to design in Graphtec Pro Studio. Only to use it as a cutting utility, to see if there was any difference cutting between Cutting Master 4 and Graphtec Pro Studio (cutting). You stated you already had 200 designs. Like most artists, your designs are saved. It can import .ai and many other file formats. Import/CUT. You also never stated, how you have your cutter receiving instructions. on Manual or PROGRAM. Looking at trouble shooting on your CUTTING MASTER 4. You can only change settings/instructions with the cutter on PROGRAM. Same as the Cutting Controller. Until you use a different cutting software, you don't know what your problem is. Vinyl cutters receive instructions differently from different softwares. We always suggest trying a different cutting software. That is routine with any trouble shooting. Member Haumana suggested the same thing above. We are just volunteers here and have seen the same problems over and over. Vinyl brand, type, and age also has a lot to with getting good clean cuts.

You have never shown a picture of your blade holder with the blade sticking out of it. Incorrect blade offset, and not finishing cuts, are signs of too much blade sticking out of your blade holder./ or broken blade tip. That blade tip should be so far into your blade holder that you would think it would not cut, You shouldn't see the blade tip. You use the force of the machine to cut with. If the blade depth is set correctly, it is not possible to cut thru the wax paper backing, no matter how much force. Also a drop or 2 of light oil in the blade holder to make sure the blade spins freely. Very hard to see a broken blade tip with the naked eye. Blade tips break very easy. If you run any type of business, you should keep spares. Graphtec tech support now says to contact your dealer first, before contacting Graphtec, So, what did your dealer say? It looks like Graphtec has delegated more tech support back to the dealers selling their machines. I only needed tech support 1 time, back in 2008, TOP notch service. Please CONTACT DEALER FIRST for First Level Support, before contacting Graphtec for any technical issues.

I don't use Cutting Master 4 software., I don't know of anyone on here that does,(that answers questions).

ok, just checking, many come here and see a little j in their design (which ruins their design) and can't get rid of it.

You purchased great Graphtec tech support with this cutter... Time to use it. First thing that I would do, is ditch the Cutting Master 4 program and use the Graphtec Pro Studio software, that was mentioned earlier. It is made by SAI,(Flexi sign pro), a much better professional software. Valued $1000 +. No matter which brand of vinyl cutter you are using, that is incorrect blade offset that you are showing. That applies to any vinyl cutter set up. Roland blade offset is at .025mm , Graphtec is 0 Graphtec ANGLE offset is 30. Blade offset is 0 The lighted display on your Graphtec vinyl cutter should be reading CBO9U+0 S5 F14 As you stated your settings were above.

Also, something you will want to do, is go into Background settings, Step thru to INITIAL BLADE CONTROL POSITION > PUT ON> OUTSIDE. THEN ENTER

Your TEST cut is not even correct. That is incorrect blade offset, shown in your user manual. Make sure your cutting settings is either being ran from your cutter OR your cutting program. Just because you change your settings in your software, does not mean it it changing it on the cutter. I use Flexi software. In my Graphtec menu is> BACKGROUND SETTINGS, There is CONDITION PRIORITY.. I make all of my changes in the Flexi program. There is MANUAL OR PROGRAM. I select PROGRAM in my CONDITION PRIORITY. I am running/making changes from the Flexi software program. I also make all of my changes from the Graphtec Cutting Controller, right from my computer. FORCE, SPEED, OFFSET,QUALITY is always changed on my GRAPHTEC CUTTING CONTROLLER (WINDOWS ONLY) I never make changes directly on my vinyl cutter. To be able to use and make changes on the GRAPHTEC CUTTING CONTROLLER, The cutter has to be sitting there ready to cut. Using Graphtec software only Command is COMMAND>GP-GL Any other brands of software like Flexi VINYL MASTER, ETC is COMMAND>HP-GL.

Is this cutter brand new or new to you? I have a Graphtec FC7000 and a Graphtec FC8000, both 30" I have no problem cutting very detailed designs. That is my business niche'. My designs are a lot more detailed than that. You are not showing what your problem is. You are not showing what the design looks like after cutting. We can tell a lot from looking at cut vinyl. Too many people use wrong instructions when setting up blade depth. People think you use a credit card or post it notes to set blade depth and that is just wrong and too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. (Even after cutting for years). You have no idea how many people will say The blade depth is correct," I used a credit card to set it" And that is about 10 times too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. "Or it is cutting the vinyl with barely a mark on the wax paper backing." (That does not explain how far the blade is exposed out of the blade holder). Make sure that you have not broken your blade tip off. Very easy to do, if too much blade is exposed out of the blade holder.. You should be doing TEST cuts from the Machine TEST feature before doing any design cutting, That is how you set up your cutter. The blade depth must be correct first, or all of your other settings will be off also. Show your TEST cuts. (The Square and triangle) TEST cuts must be correct first. Without showing what is being cut, we have no idea what you are talking about. Also, make sure you have the flange correctly holding down the lip of the blade holder. We have seen that also, Also make sure the cap is tight on the blade holder. A lot of us cutters use a 60 degree blade for cutting everything. Setting blade depth is all about, using the least amount of blade exposed out of the blade holder. The correct combo is less blade, more force. This works correctly for any vinyl cutter. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct. No mention which cutting software you are using, That cutter came with Graphtec Pro Studio which is rebranded Flexi Sign Pro. (for windows) The best that you can get. You stated this cutter is new.. So, why haven't you contacted Graphtec tech support? They are your tech support. The cutter would be under warranty, if it was new.

How big is that art work? It shouldn't cut past the pinch rollers. You should read the user manual which can be found online. Graphtecs have more features than value cutters, for a reason.

Calibration for input>output sizes> in in your cutting software, No mention how you have set your blade depth, too many instructions stating to use a credit card or post it notes, these are wrong and 10 times too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. Check for gouges or scratches in your cutting strip. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.

The machine has a sensor in the back, when the sensor stops seeing the material it stops. I turned my media sensor and pinch roll sensor off on day 1 on my Graphtec. I can cut anything without stopping. vinyl edge to edge. OR, you could tape extra material or paper onto the length of the sheet so the sensor sees it. Tape underneath. I do that many times to use the full lengths of vinyl scraps, so the pinch rollers are on the material. And the vinyl doesn't slip out from under the pinch rollers.

You are not supposed to lift the vinyl from the wax paper backing. You will pull the transfer tape away, it will lose it's stickiness and you will actually lift the wax paper backing right up with the decal and it will be stuck to your decal. You squeegee the transfer tape down real good, Paper transfer tape is used by professionals. That is all that I use. Then turn the decal over and peel the wax paper backing AWAY from the decal. It makes a huge difference. I write these directions on every decal that I ship. Never have problems. Including Avery chrome. Most chrome is polyester, and you will need a bit more force, so that the blade is cutting all the way thru the adhesive, There should be light marking on the wax paper backing.

Look in the Vinyl Master set up for the cutter. It depends on where you got the software. That cutter should be USB.

To be able to use Signblazer or any other cutting software that is not Graphtec branded, The COMMAND needs to be on HP-GL. Only GP-GL is for Graphtec software. They have more features for a reason. quality and precision.

I really miss Bill, we used to talk all the time, His favorite saying " Going fishing, Somebody has to do it" LOL That was Bill.

reinstall it, there are several different cutting softwares, we don't know what has been done.

You also never mentioned the cutter speed, run slow until you get this figured out. I never run my cutter fast, as most the time I am cutting and answering questions on here. I mostly cut long graphics, that travel 8-16 ft cutting.