jmas

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jmas last won the day on February 26

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About jmas

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  1. Graphtec Question

    Yeah, but I don't work like most of you guys do. While I do some signs and decals, the bulk of my work is more of a repeating wholesale thing for pre-made designs. I need to save things in a project format so I can open them and the sizing and layout are already there. I just click "cut" and get paid
  2. Graphtec Question

    I've had Pro since July but have been hesitant to use it. Truth be told, I haven't ran across anything I can't do in Studio, and I do some weird stuff sometimes. But I'm mostly worried about whether this Pro version is a one time freebie or if it will be an ongoing project that will be updated and free forever. I'm hesitant to switch all my work to it if it will be out of date in a couple years.
  3. Graphtec Question

    The default file format is flexi's .fs but it can export to these:
  4. Graphtec Question

    To make the Ohio outline beefier, look at the "offset selected shape" option. It's the red and white target looking button near the top. It will draw around your shape and you can adjust the slider to make the drawing larger or smaller. Studio can export as pdf then you can convert it to eps to use in other software. You can convert it online if you don't have software installed to do it, just google pdf to eps converter. You may be able to get a free copy of Studio Pro if you go to this site and fill out your info and the serial number on your Graphtec machine. I got it a few months ago and the site is still up, so I guess they're still giving it away. It turns out that after all the wait for a pro version, it's actually just Flexi with the Graphtec name added to it. That's ok, Flexi is great and I don't mind getting it for free, but it's funny that Graphtec Studio Pro is nothing like Graphtec Studio. https://www.graphtecamerica.com/cp-graphtec-pro-studio-request-form It looks like they have officially released it for $1000! http://www.graphtecamericastore.com/graphtec-pro-studio-plus-software/
  5. Anybody recognize this one...

    D'oh! I forgot about the slider! Thanks.
  6. Anybody recognize this one...

    Oh wow thanks. How'd you do that? I couldn't get Find My Font to recognize any letters.
  7. Anybody recognize this one...

    Does anyone recognize the flourishes on the capital letters? This is from a business card and I can't even get a good enough photo for Find my Font to work on it. It's not a big deal, I'm making single use signs and anything will work. But for many of the signs I only have business cards to go from so instead of laying out the information in a new way, I've been recreating the cards as signs, down the every detail. This font might ruin my record of perfection lol
  8. Material for Masking for Paint?

    I've used both Oramask 811 and 813. 811 is thicker and I don't really remember much about it except that I was happy when I switched to 811. I used 811 on the 8 inch Cobra below and had a hard time weeding it. On the other hand, I've used 813 for patterns that were an inch or two tall and it weeded about as easily as regular vinyl.
  9. Help required to prevent peeling and bubbling

    I work in a body shop and the paint is absolutely what caused the problem. Paint will outgas for a long time after it's been sprayed and paint manufacturers tell you to wait a certain amount of time (usually 4 or 6 weeks) before even waxing new paint because certain waxes (any containing carnuba are the worst) can seal the paint and there's nowhere for that gas to go. The same applies to vinyl. Since he used "cheap spray can of white paint, after which he waxed it," there's no telling what happened. It's possible that the wax sealed the paint, the paint bubbled on it's own and the vinyl had nothing to do with it. The bottom line is that the vehicle wasn't ready to have vinyl applied and I wouldn't warranty it unless I really wanted to keep that customer. In that case I would explain all that to him and explain that you can try to heat the vinyl for a few seconds and try to pull it off gently and slowly but it may take the paint with it. If it does, there's two options; he can paint it again and bring it back in a month to re-vinyl that section, or you can put vinyl over the missing paint now. That will protect the metal and keep it from rusting so that it won't really need repainted, but the vinyl will be bumpy wherever paint is missing. It's a tough situation. A vinyl guy shouldn't have to be an expert on paint, but you can't expect an air conditioner guy to be an expert on paint or vinyl either.
  10. Hello everyone/ Car material

    This may sound strange, but when using 751/951 for racing stripes, I install wet and don't even bother with transfer tape. I mark where the stripes go then just peel a stripe off, wet it, and put it on the car. I never get bubbles and the install is really fast. What kind of stripe does she want? If she wants it to follow the contour of the hood like this photo, you may be better off with Design Line Knifeless Tape and a yard of wrap for the hood. You could use sign vinyl for the rest of the car as long as the color matches.
  11. What are you all using for invoicing and receipts?

    I use the free Zoho Invoice app on my Android phone. You can also use it through their website.
  12. Vinyl Adhesive removal Problem ?

    That's what happened. I work in a body shop and even small 1/16th vinyl pinstripes do that on fresh paint. We usually wait a month before applying larger graphics.
  13. Pricing question

    I work at a body shop so I don't do many signs but the original price looks good to me. I get smart with people like that and tell them it's not like a used car, there's no haggling. The price is the price. I'm not above lying and saying the materials alone are $150. Go in and order a $14.99 pizza and ask if they'll take $8 for it.
  14. Oh yeah, here's another one I use sometimes. If you want to align the decal with a straight line and you have enough space on the vinyl, cut guides as part of the decal. For example, add squares to the design and when you are doing the install, place the squares right above the straight line of the truck. Finish installing the decal then take off the squares.
  15. On really big weird things like this I usually look for a straight line, measure from it and put little pieces of tape to mark where the decal needs to go. It looks like the area I marked with a green line is all level in real life although it's not in the photo. I would measure up from the metal/body line, put little pieces of tape (green squares) about 1/8th of an inch from where the bottom of the decal needs to be and put the decal right above them.