Renegade

Have you converted it to curves, welded it, & looked at it in wireframe view?

I got turned on to the Clean Cut blades early on and once I started using them I haven't used anything else.

Yep, I figured it out eventually. Its the page length setting that was defaulted to 11" on the cutter. I can't remember what I set it too, but it was something like 1024.

I don't think so, but anything is possible. The one I've posted is pretty rough only because I cropped it out of a jpg logo.

Yeah, its a little different than most anything. Its got to be in the brush script family, but haven't found what combination to use even if its been customized.

I use the Tee Square It as well

Sunie/Seiki is probably the best of the Chinese presses, but I'd only buy it from a good dealer like Proworld and really I'd still tell you that you can get a good name brand press used for about the same price. While there are plenty of people that like the Sunie/Seiki, most are only happy because they haven't had a good press yet. There are lots of stories about Sunie/Seiki's that have uneven platens, failed heat elements, pads that were installed wrong or not attached bought from companies that won't call back. The real problem is that there are potential defects from any company and if a company will back up their products or not is really what you are after. Lifetime warranties are another good sign of how well a product is made or not. Solid companies that have been around and have longtime warranties are making a product that they know will last or they wouldn't offer the warranty in the first place.

Don't! I've run across a handful of stories about them catching on fire. If you have a problem with one you are pretty much on your own. Buying a cheap press is more than a gamble and while it may work out for some, how long until its your turn to learn a lesson on why not to buy a cheap press. If the cost of a new brand name press is too much, then get a used brand name. I'd recommend Hix, Mighty, Stahls, Hotronix, Phoenix, Maxx, or Geo Knight.

There are many printers that use pigmented inks from the factory, but I converted an Epson 1400 from Claria inks (that some self proclaimed experts claim doesn't bleed, but did for my customers) to refill carts with pigment inks. I've not experimented with inks in any of my HP printers yet, but I'm sure some of the guys that sell the ink and carts will be able to help you. Inkjetfly is who I've been working with for ink and carts, but there are lots of other companies to choose from.

I prefer 11x17 sheets, but can't think of anything wrong with the 8.5x11. Not sure what type of ink your printer uses, but pigment ink is preferred as it won't fade or bleed. I've got a couple of test shirts that have been washed about 50+ times that look fine. JPSS lasts just fine if you use the proper ink and technique to make them. I usually get 100 11x17 sheets for about $1 each. 8.5x11 sheets are usually $31.50 for a 50 pack.

Well after the last show I did, I opened the box to find that one of my "helpers" bent the he!! out of one of the two roller bars on the back of my Graphtec CE5000-60. I tried to straighten it out and its usable, but thought maybe someone had found a good replacement or had a technique to get it really straight again.

If its one color print in both places, then I'd probably be about the same.

What would you charge someone you like, that pays their bills, and you want to do business with again, to print up 200 black 6.1oz 100% cotton tees with a simple left chest single color white graphic that is about 4.25"x3.25"? Can be plastisol or vinyl and I'm even open to other ideas if you have some other way to put some nice crisp white on black graphics. I know the standard answer is going to be figure your cost and charge 2-2.5 times that, but these are an odd situation and I just want to figure out a industry average low end reasonable price for this job as I would do it free if I could afford to stay in business.

I'm fortunate enough to have a captive market with this situation and I need to charge a fair price to allow me to pay off equipment and such. No one seems to really care what the cost is except me because I don't want to over charge or charge so little that I'm cheating myself. So, I'm hoping by getting a range of costs here I can set a price that I know is fair because I'll likely do this a couple of times a year for the next few years.

That is exactly the kind of feed back I'm looking for. Would like to get at least 3 or 4 to compare. Thanks and keep it coming please.

I totally agree about the shop class, but they tell me they don't have the class that could do it anymore. I think there are sponsors that are ready to pay for it, but every dollar they spend on it is less for the kids. I've got one guy that wants to beat our best price, but I think we'd all be glad to at least have a shot at that with our customers. Its always easy enough to say no when the price is to low, but great to be given the last option.

Does anyone around here wrap big truck trailers? Need to get an idea of the cost and how long it will likely last. Going to wrap a 53' trailer that we use for the high school band. It will be red with some black & possibly white graphics on it for sponsors and the school name an such. Main thing I need to know is what the average cost would be for this kind of job and the next thing I'm looking for is some ideas on a way to get the wrap done cheaply or free would be nice. Thought about maybe approaching some company like Fellers or Oracal about it. Maybe they could do a wrap class with it and at least the school could get the labor for free if not the wrap as well. Any info or ideas would be appreciated.

The issue is that the trailer is turning pink from fading red and needs a general overhaul anyway since we are unable to get a new trailer like we probably should. I will likely do some vinyl work for sponsor names on the lower doors and such of the trailer, but the main part needs to be redone and if we can do a wrap reasonably then I think we might do some higher detail graphics and it would make the trailer look like new. I'd be interested in using vinyl, but I didn't really think it would be reasonable to first wrap the trailer in red vinyl and then to layer vinyl graphics over that. I'm open to all ideas at this time, but the trailer is looking pretty shabby and needs a facelift. Just thought if we were going to mess with covering the whole thing in vinyl then the wrap would be the way to go and then we could do pretty much whatever graphics we wanted. There are a few others in our area that have done this, but they are all schools in cities that they are the only high school. So, they get tons of support and dollars. We are just a public school and there are about 20+ high schools in our city.

Maybe Calvin just enjoys peeing on Big Mikes. I don't think you can assume that he is saying that Big Mikes is no good just because its his preferred location for relieving himself.

1)MH-721 2)If you do inkjet trasfers for tshirts you will possibly want to be able to contour cut around printed images to remove the extra unprinted areas from the transfer. If you need to contour cut, get a Graphtec. The laserpoint just has a little red led that gives you a point to manually align and doesn't have an optical eye to do registration. 3)Signblazer is simple and will allow you to design and cut. Many people are able to get by with it alone. I personally use Corel Draw X4 to design and it has a plugin for my Graphtec to be able to cut directly from the program. Flexi is a feature rich sign program that I would consider a step better than Corel Draw, but with a higher learning curve.

I cut directly from Corel with my Graphtec with the plugin that ships with the cutter.

Anyone have any experience with or recommendations for a 4 or 8 channel DVR card or affordable cameras for day & night surveillance? Know any good forums or websites to get info?

I'd say go with the 6.1 if you want that thicker quality feel. Customers notice the difference and appreciate it.

If you are just doing one and don't care if it lasts then you might get by with just throwing a transfer sheet in your printer. Depending on the ink type in the printer, kind of shirt, kind of transfer paper, colors you are printing, heat, pressure, & time settings, etc. your results could be less than perfect for sure. I recommend using Jet Pro Soft Stretch, pigment inks, and cotton white or light colored shirts. Even with those details provided for me, I made quite a few bad ones before I got it to the point that I'd be willing to sell them.

Pretty sure that more posts doesn't equally more answers. Getting posts in the correct forum would help you out more than likely as well.