xpaperman

howdy from Texas! (Pittsburg Texas at that) Good luck on your goals. There is tons of help on this forum!

Yes, the SC model is very tricky to get set just right. It's a learning curve. However, once you get it tweaked just right I think it is one of the better lower end machines! You can get some good small stuff out of it with practice! The downside? It seems like once you get it perfect.... it's time to change the blade..... UUUGGGHHHHH. LOL

another tip.... make sure you clean the glass first! Real good. You want to make sure there is no "film" or dirt of any kind on the glass that you cant see. I use my app fluid for this but I also make my own fluid. I use water, alcohol and some dish soap. The mixer helps clean the glass properly before application and works great during application. Make sure the glass is clean so the vinyl actually can adhere well to the glass!

Thats about where I was with my SC

maybe off topic but it looks like your speed is a little fast and you are using alot of pressure for regular vinyl.

Doesn't the next customer pay for that mistake anyway?

The rub n buff will come off. There are 2 key factors that I have found and I pass it on to my customers. First, make sure you have a good quality etch! It holds better to the etch itself. Will rub off the regular stainless pretty easy. That being said.... make sure you etch all corners etc. really good. Next is up to the customer..... I tell them the color is not permanent and like anything else will wear over time. Always hand wash and never "scub" on the etched/colored area. Just a damp cloth with warm soapy water lightly swiped over the area is all that is needed. I have several I have done for myself, one has gotten lighter a lot quicker thank another (I think it was just a light etch and not a good deep one) I also have one that still looks like it did day one.

Anyone help with this font. As always.....Thanks in advance!

howdy from Texas

Yes, don't forget to ground your cutter to the stand and your going to want to get a tripplite usb converter if your using usb.

she was on the fence at 63.... your another 11 short of the 72 she was after. I will ask tho. Ballpark idea where you would be on price? 52 by 10 foot. full color but artwork will be provided to you ready to go.

you said your cost was 2 rolls of htv... obviously you did not use two full rolls. So, your cost appears to be about 3 bucks in vinyl per shirt. They look great!

US cutter has a 63" on a roll I could use. They are fine with that size. Even going that route tho.... the price is going to get up there by the time we get about 12 sponsor decals......

ya gotta charge it before it lights up!

Pittsburgh was running a special for 5 bucks a square foot. Came out to 300 bucks. Customer was not interested in that price range so.... she is thinking things over at the moment. The banner is to be filled with sponsors logos.... hmmm maybe Dakota can just print the individual logos then just peel and stick on banner as necessary?

nope.... he really is President....

Howdy From Texas

did you get the laser alignment?

It's HEAVY and bulky..... and looooong. I had to make a quick custom fix for it so I could use it until I could come up with a more permanent solution. A year later and we are still in the temp. spot....lol That is something to really consider before that purchase..... where is it going!

I was told by a dealer that your cost per print (8 1/2 x 11) including paper is about a buck a page.....

If your just needing one or a few.... you might be better off asking some one on here that does that to help out/do it for you!

For starters, if you just providing the htv, your material cost should be about 75 bucks. (without any kind of markup)

You mentioned shirt price and htv price x2. What price are you using? By your figures, I assume you are using your "cost" pricing. You should be using your markup price. For example, for me, I sell or resell my shirts for 5 bucks plain. I pay about 2.60 to 2.80 a shirt. I double then round up or down to make it easy. So I "sell" the blank shirt for 5 bucks. Now I base the htv cost about 3 bucks a linear foot. Double that to 6. Most of my stuff (single color) can be done with about a linear foot. So now we have a product cost with markup. 11 bucks is my starting point. A second color? you can add another 6 bucks or if you using less than a linear foot or you can apply a discount for a second color etc.... When doing a full back and a chest area.... usually if you lay it out together, you can cut both items at the same time using about the same amount of material (less waste) So you don't really have to charge for the material for the chest at that point. 11 bucks for shirt and back single color.... add second color pricing then consider your time. how long is it going to take to cut weed and press? Figure that time in based on your "hourly rate". That will give you an idea of where to be. I think you will find your a little low, but your ok. When doing a group of shirts all the same tho, you can save htv by how you layout the design... thus saving you money, you can pass the savings on (bulk discount) or keep it. Depends on the customer too.... friend? First timer with potential future work and trying to get you foot in the door...... another tip, if your kind of new to the pricing part..... call another place and ask for a quote on the same order. Then you will know what the competition is doing and maybe get a feel for pricing in your area.

I would use a Jack @$$ but thats just me

But they don't have to even stock it. They can/have drop ship from Orcal.