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Totally depends on the type of repellent they are using. You can press HTV on to Duluth Firehose material (which has a waterproof coating). Maybe see if you can inconspicuously put something on the inside of the bottom hem if the material is sewed over?

I would think that you can do 9-10 at once off a 24" roll. Use registration marks and manually make the sheets weeding lines. I would also use a clear application tape, for how rigid it is.

The "8" is higher than the rest of the numbers. Also, it needs a few commas and random stuff is capitalized.

I'm guessing percentage of light reflected.

IMO black shirts is the problem. If you were doing light colored shirts, DTG or sublimation comes into play. You might want to look into heat press transfers, or possibly consider easyweed PU (But, that will be a little stiff on the shirt).

Not all of them, but the lack of QC is concerning. Mechanical drives make up a somewhat dying industry at this point. Lots of consolidation which is crazy to see for a computer guy like me. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_defunct_hard_disk_manufacturers#/media/File:Diagram_of_Hard_Disk_Drive_Manufacturer_Consolidation.svg The new NVME 3D SSD's are going to pretty much kill the low end mechanical drives probably in the next 2-3 years. That will probably leave us with only enterprise drives still mechanical.

Seagate has made some awful drives since the Typhoon hit Thailand about 5-7? years back. A company called "backblaze" which does cloud based backups, uses consumer drives and publishes their failure rates. https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-failure-rates-q2-2016/ Going back a few years on their other reports, some of the Seagate drives have had annualized failure rates exceeding 100% https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-q3-2015/ Stick with Hitatchi GST if you need a mechanical drive, or get an SSD (From Samsung, Crucial, Intel, or Plextor).

I find it helps to cut a slightly inline'd decal to act as a placement template to leave under the lettering. I've put physically cut lettering on a wall using double sided mounting tape, and it speeds things up a lot. I imagine it also will aid in removal once its time. This was of course done on an internal wall. For outside installation, a decal may not work, depending on the substrate. It might make sense to use a stencil and temporary marking paint.

Very cool. I'll trade my knees for that thing. I'd have to in order to fly it anyway.

Glad to hear it. It sucks that a lot of what we do that is IP heavy is so easily knocked off with minimal investment. Programs like Vector Magic make it very easy. Brainless, if you don't care about QC.

I didn't. What I did was write a cover letter, with a form provided by my county, and informed Sprint I was going to file it. It was for the cost of the phone ($120) + cost of service downtime. This came about because I was looking to take the phone i purchased from Ebay and bring it to one of the MVNO's. When i called Sprint, they said they would unlock it without issue (or qualification). When it came time to bring the phone up, because it wasn't for them, they claimed the former owner still owed a bill. They said I had a paperweight until they paid. In your case the damages are not really concrete compared to mine. It would be more subjective? In Adams county PA, Sprint would have to send out a representative to defend against the claim. If they did not, the judge would make a determination given any evidence presented. That's how it works by me. Personally I hate litigation, lawyers, and everything that goes with it, but these big companies really don't care. Amazon gets their cut regardless.

Unfortunately they are probably going to "give you the run around" unless you have documented proof of your intellectual property to satisfy them. This is how they scare off illegitimate claims of infringement, people lacking documentation, and those who are weak willed. You probably have very few methods of recourse. Gather as much proof that the items in question are yours. (Having a dated original helps, or electronic time stamp that precedes anything they have). If you have SOLID proof then, present this proof to them and demand to speak to someone in their legal department. You will be rebuffed at first. 1: Send them a Cease and Desist letter. 2: FAX them a claim of damages, and intent to take them to small claims court, if you do not have satisfactory resolution of your complaint by X date. (This depends on your state and locality) I sent SPRINT a claim of damages after they dicked me around with unlocking a phone. Going to the FCC did nothing. Sending them that letter got my problem resolved in days.

The curved monitors are graphically pretty nice, and do not have much distortion at all, because the curvature is somewhat minimal. What a lot of them do have is IPS glow that makes the blacks look gray and hazy. That's something I noticed with several models at the micocenter. It is perhaps magnified because of the curve, but I couldn't help but be distracted by it.

9/16" Does not seem too bad to me. I'm with goose wondering what cutter you are using. Ultimately, you need to make sure you are making a fair hourly wage after all expenses are accounted for. Whether or not that makes sense for the end user is a different story.

Frog Tape + good storage conditions

See if there is a coax style piece of copper sticking out. With tweezers you might be able to center/straighten it. If its the power connector itself that is loose in the laptop, then the laptop needs to be disassembled and the part replaced, if it is possible.

@ Monkey : The install looks great. Good job! @ Buster, A standard laser level on a tripod that works just as well for the purpose. I have a cheap Craftsman laser trac model on top of a manfroto tripod with 3 leveling thumbscrews. It comes in handy when you have to align something across non-contiguous shapes like uneven doors etc.

There are multiple ways to make shirts with a heat press. 1: Easyweed and Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV): This material is weeded from the liner, like regular vinyl (but mirrored). Its liner is the only thing that needs to be between the top of the press and the shirt, but some people use butcher paper or teflon sheets. 2: Plastisol Transfers: These come from sites like F&M expressions, and are basically screen print done indirectly. They have their own transfer and need nothing else. 3: Dye Sublimation: Only suitable for high poly light shirts. Different application required different things like foam, nomex, adhesive spray, or teflon sheets. You also need a dye sub printer with applicable inks. You can find more info on the signwarehouse instruction list from the manufacturer.

You can do that but they also have velcro cable management pieces that are re-usable. Walmart Pack of 100

You are probably better off looking at double sided fabric/fashion tape for temporary use. It can be used a few times, and then torn off and replaced.

The standard blue holder can cut things with ridiculous precision. Basically, to the point where static becomes an enemy and it becomes nigh impossible to weed.

IMO, the fine silver tends to look the best. I've got some on hand if you want to farm it out or want me to send you a small piece in a letter.

Speed seems extremely high. What kind of cutter do you have?

Yep, like sue said its called tiling. Just try to find the cleanest breakpoints that minimize overlap in conspicuous areas.

I love it.