darcshadow
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Posts posted by darcshadow
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Yeah, that looks like an auto trace. Letters never trace well and you're better off finding the font and recreating the wording of what ever image you're tracing.
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I'll let someone that knows AI help you out, I don't know that program. In Inkscape, all you have to do is enter the node editing mode then just select and delete the individual nodes. I would assume it's similar in AI.
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That's not bad, so what are you not happy with? You simply need to do some node editing to remove the remaining letters and maybe sharpen up some of the corners.
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Depends on the hub, some are, some are not. But in order to connect 2 computers to a hub you'd need a special USB male-male cable and then a female to female cable for connecting to the plotter. It'd be cheaper to get the switch I linked to above.
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Have you tried using the pen holder and drawn the B on paper, does it still do the exact same thing?
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Didn't even know the USB thing existed till I just did a google search. The serial box switch, I've not used that exact model, but I've used several through the years, they've been around since pretty much the beginning of computers.
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That's pretty cool. Don't know exactly what they're using, but black rub-n-buff might produce similar results.
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What speeds and pressures are you running at? How much blade exposure do you have? If you can see the blade easily, you have too much. There are dozens of post on here about how to set the correct blade depth.
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You could try a USB sharing switch like this one
Don't know if it'd work or not. I know some usb HUBs won't work because they don't allow true bi-directional comms. From the description it sounds like it should work.
The other option would be a 2-way serial switch box like this
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I think that one will work. Thanks.
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Can anyone identify this font? I found GulimChe to be pretty close but not exact.
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Might try just slowing it down. I don't know what the SC capabilities are, but that video seemed pretty quick to me.
On a side note, for future videos, turn your phone sideways so that the video appears correctly when viewed on a computer.
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Water, that's another thing to be sure to get, get a water separator for the hose and put it as near the blast cabinet as possible.
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What are you putting in for quantity on the time entry? 1 minute would be 0.016 hours.
What results do you get if you put in 40 for unit cost, and 0.016 for Quantity for Sign Preparation, Weeding, Application?
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Here's a link to the topic where I posted a photo of my setup.
It might seem odd having the hand holes on two different sides but it worked out really well with the size of the tote and gave me good maneuverability.
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For simple decals, 651 will work, but 751 or 851 is usually recommended. Just depends on how long the decal is expected to last.
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1 hour ago, Primal Decals said:Thanks everyone for the info and the grit numbers i needed,Just out of curiosity, is it possible to take the top filler cup off of the eraser one from harbor freight and put a hose on it instead to see if it would create enough suction to suck ? Maybe? lol..
I don't believe so, at least not easily. If you want to go the air eraser route, you can build a little blast using a plastic tote. That's what I did to start with. Worked ok for doing glasses but took forever, 15-20min, to do a single glass where as with the siphon gun in the cabinet I could do a glass in about a minute. I believe I posted photos of my setup on here someplace.
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I have not used that tool, but judging from the screen I would guess you put in your hourly rate under unit cost, and then under quantity how many hours it took you for a single decal.
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Those look great, but man are those stand off pricey.
Another thing that might sell well, turn that design into a clock. Shouldn't be too hard to do.
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If there is not an update that fixes it, and you don't want to spend any money, give Inkscape a try. It's not the greatest for working with text, but it does a pretty decent job and is great for vector design in general, and best of all, it's free.
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For typical decals in that size range, the cost of the material is basically irrelevant, just a few pennies. The real cost is in your time and what do you pay yourself per hour. Start to finish how long does it take you to produce the 150 decals ready for deliver? Say 5 hours, at $40 per hour, that's $200, or $1.33 per decal.
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Most blast cabinets come with a siphon blaster, so no need for an air eraser, you'd quickly out grow it anyway. Bench cabinets are nice, but the one downfall they pretty much all have, is the sides of the bottom are not steep enough to get media to slide to the bottom where the siphon intake is located. They work well enough, but not as well as a self standing unit with steeper sides. And just a quick note on siphon blasters, do not bury the entire metal siphon under the media, the top of it should be up in open air. (took me awhile to figure that one out
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Personally I'd skip the HF unit. The problem with theirs and several others in the low price range is that it is put together with nuts and bolts and as a result has a lot of places for media to leak out. This can be fixed with sealant, but for just a bit more you can find a cabinet that is all one piece. Usually Rotomolded plastic. Nothertool has one for about $200.
As for grit, that depends on the look you like. The higher/finer the grit, the more of a dusting effect the etch will have. The lower/course grit will give a courser surface. For glass I like something around 120 grit. They type of media also plays a factor, for glass Aluminum Oxide is pretty common. It's not too expensive, and lasts pretty long. Even with a blast cabinet you should still consider some sort of respirator or dust mask, no such thing as being too safe.
Lastly, get as big of an air compressor as you can afford. Blasting uses quite a bit of air and a small compressor will be running constantly to keep the air supply going and as a result quickly burn itself out. I have a 10 gallon unit, it works well, but it does run a bit more often than I'd like. One thing that confused me in the beginning was looking at the require CFMs of a blaster vs the CFMs of a compressor. The two do not have to be matched up. Once the tank of the compressor is full, it will provide what ever the blaster needs, it'll only be restricted by the hoses and fittings. Where the CFM of the compressor comes into play is how long it will take to refill the tank. So if you compressor has a higher CFM, you can blast non stop. If your compressor has a lower CFM you will need to pause every now and then and give the compressor time to refill the tank.
Also, the larger diameter hose you can get, the better. Larger diameters will allow higher CFM, should try to go 1/2" at the min.
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I'm not sure exactly on the max thickness, but I know it's not much. Anything much thicker than about 2, maybe 3 layers of vinyl will be too thick to cut with a MH.
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Now that is a GREAT attitude to have!
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Need help with Porsche graphics kit
in Graphic Requests
Posted
Cause it's easier and faster to find someone that already has done all the work.
A note on recreating it if you can't find a kit, that stripe on the top will not be as simple as it looks. The curves of the hood and ruff mess with you and a straight piece of vinyl will not go on straight on those curves. You're best bet is a good wrap vinyl and some knifeless tape.