darcshadow

Don't know about an actual cure time, would stand to reason though, the "glue" will dry eventually. I do know it's much easier to remove fresh vinyl than old.

Depends on what you're using the stencil for and what if any complains you have using greenstar as a stencil. I use scrap viny, for stencils for media blasting and powder coating. It works well in both cases and never had a need to step up to true stencil material. I would step up from green start to oracal, just the easy in weeding is worth the extra little cost.

Depends on what you're wanting to do with the printer. In terms of standard paper printing, laser is better for speed and cost, inkjet is better for photo and images. What are you wanting to do with your printer?

You can loosen the pinch rollers, but more often then not people that do that cause more problems than they solve. The marks should work themselves out when you apply. If not, maybe hit it with a little heat to work them out after applying.

Have you tried saving the svg files in different svg formats? Because SVG is an open source format, it is not as strictly controled as a proprietary format would be and different software treats different aspects of the format slightly differently. Inkscape can save as "Inkscape SVG", "Plain SVG", and "Optimized SVG". Might try a different one and see how it works. Inkscape can also save off as EPS so might just give that a go.

You mean art work you created? Just simply copy the SBD files from one computer to another.

What program you using? Some place in it should be a calibration setting to correct scaling issues like this.

I would say check the manual, but I just did and the manual is worthless. If a machine is going to display vague error messages the manual should tell you what they mean!

I have some, pm sent.

Pretty sure it should just cut a simple square with a triangle inside of it. Should take just a few seconds.

Only problem I've ever had was some vinyl never showed up. When I contacted support they sent out the order that day and gave me a discount on the order. Very pleased with them and this forum is great. Support from community members as well as official support can't be beat.

Maybe double check the comm settings. If it starts and then hangs, that sounds to me like the data is getting corrupted. Could be a comm setting issue, or could be the memory in the cutter has started going bad and the data is being corrupted as it's stored and read in the memory.

You've ruled out static as the problem with the pen test. Have you tried different software or cables? Are you using a USB cable or serial? Serial is a better option if you have one on your computer. If not, you can get a triplite keyspan usb-serial adapter.

Essentially a 60 will work for everything, only "danger" is that the tip is smaller so it's easier to break it, but so long as you have the depth and pressure set correctly that shouldn't happen.

As for tracing, I'd find the state outline, they're pretty easy to find, and then manually trace the letters, they're all straight lines so it shouldn't be that hard.

For high detailed stuff you probably want to switch to a 60 degree blade.

Here's a manual https://www.uscutter.com/static/PDFs/TitanSE_UserManual_Oct30_2017.pdf

Any of the metallic vinyls are going to be harder on the blade meaning you'll just have to replace it more often.

Understand you're frustrated, but you're going to have to provide a bit more info for anyone to be able to help. What do you mean by doesn't complete job? What OS are you using? USB or serial cable?

Motherboard would be a strong suspect at this point. I would still give a different cutting program a try though. Signblazer is free or there are several other free to try programs.

something like this? I just kept making the outline larger till all the letters merged into one large outline.

First thing to do is make sure your blade depth is set correctly for your material. Mz Skeeter has posted the correct way to set blade depth, and I believe it's a sticky in the Instructional section of the forums. Next would be to adjust your blade offset. Typical values are around 0.25 but it varies slightly from blade to blade and cutter to cutter.There is an instructional PDF in the same post about blade depth in the instructionl section of the forums If you're still not getting the circles closed after that, try adding a bit of overcut, shouldn't need much 1mm should be good. As for the Oilboard, I have not used it or your cutter, but looking at the specs for the oilboard, it is 0.7" thick. That's 7X thicker than the stuff you cut already! I highly doubt the cutter can cut anything that thick.

Do a google search for Graphtec Studio Tutorials. There are tons of videos and walk through's on how to do all kinds of stuff.

How do you know all settings are correct? Has this setup worked in the past? If so, what has changed? Have you tried different software? Have you tried different USB cable? Have you tried serial cable? Does the cutter perform a self test successfully? What computer/OS are you using? the MH's don't play nice with Macs.

Most vinyls are not designed to be on the inside. The glue breaks down from the UV exposure. I've used vinyl as masks for powder coating where the vinyl is "baked" at 400 for about 3 minutes. It holds up well to that so I don't think 120 is going to be too big of a concern. I've also put some on a buddies black truck hood and it has done ok. A bit of shrinkage, but it was early in my vinyl endeavor and I used calendared vinyl. Good quality cast vinyl should do just fine. I wouldn't worry about the glass breaking from uneven heat. The vinyl is not going to change the heat distribution enough to be of concern. The point where the glass touches the edge of the window would have a higher temperature change and it doesn't have issues. Really the danger in glass breaking from temperature is from sudden changes, such as hot water on an iced over windshield.