darcshadow

Technically any plotter can contour cut, the trick is getting everything lined up correctly. When you say you're not having any luck, what exactly is the problem you're having? So long as the design is not too large or complex the tracking on the MH should be good enough to do contour cutting, it'll just be a matter of getting things lined up right to start.

Did you plug the USB cable back into the same USB port? When you plug it into a different port it assigns a new comm number.

Sort of. You can take any picture and with some work turn it into a vector file that the cutting software can use. The quality of the end result depends on the quality of the image to start with. The best images would be a 2 color black and white. Most vector software have some sort of vectoring tool. Inkscape and VinylMaster both have pretty good ones. The other option is to load the image in your program and manually trace it. Depending on the complexity of the design, the manual trace can be pretty easy and will generally give better results than an autotrace with a little practice.

I'm hoping to find the font that these numbers came from. Need to put names on some jerseys and I'd like to match the numbers if possible. If not I'll just use a standard block font. Anyone able to ID this font from just these numbers?

Awsome! Thanks!

That's just the nature of florescent colors.They use UV light to get that color and as a result they break down faster than other colors. I looked into it once, it's fascinating how florescent colors work.

As I said, if the blade depth is set correctly, it's impossible to cut through the backing. The ONLY way that can happen is if your blade is out too far. It is possible to get an ok cut with too much blade exposed and that may have been the case. Now, something else has changed and it is highlighting the blade exposure problem. Fix that and go from there.

If the test cuts are coming out good then there maybe an issue with the design and/or the software. What software are you using?

I would suggest keep using the test cut on the machine itself till you get it cutting good. Then move on to your actual design. This accomplishes three things, it give you a known good cut design, it eliminated software on the computer, and it minimizes vinyl usage. Unless they've changed the patter, the test cut should be a square, about 1" in size, with a star inside of it. You should be able to easily weed the star without pulling up the edges, or vice versa, weed the edges without pulling up the star. After you pull up the star or the edges, pull up the other so that you can clearly see any marking on the backing paper. At most it should look like you ran a pen over it and put a slight indention into it. If the backing is cut at all you have too much blade exposed.

by cut too much do you mean it's cutting into the backing paper? The ONLY way that can happen is if the blade is not set correctly. Follow mz skeeter's instructions on setting blade depth and go from there. Her instructions are posted all over the forums.

where are you seeing that? If I do a google search for CE6000-120 AP everything comes back withGraphtec CE6000-120 Vinyl Cutter.

Unless you ever mentioned to them that you were using the cutter for cutting paper, it never would occurred to them to tell you about the need for a cutting mat. The machine is designed for cutting vinyl, cutting anything else with it is an off label use. Not saying it can't be done, but it'd not the typical use for it.

Yes, different vinyl won't fix this problem, so we'll need to get it sorted out first. But for making shirts, sign vinyl will not work. Unless maybe you just plan to wear the shirt once then toss it.

Does the blade spin freely? Is the tip broken. Kind of looks like the vinyl is being ripped rather than cut.

From looking at DeTape's web page, they do not make any HTV. If you're just doing crafting, most craft stores sell HTV in sheets. You pay a bit more per square inch, but it's not bad for one off shirts.

The vinyl in the photo looks to have blue backing. That is not heat press vinyl, the vinyl in the photo will not work for shirts. How exactly are you setting your blade depth?

What cutter are you using? A graphic that big on say an MH Cutter and only being off by 1/8" is actually pretty good.

The MH uses a serial comm interface so in theory there is no reason you couldn't use a Mac you just need software that uses the proper serial communications. I do not have a Mac, so I am of no help on that side of things. Inkscape is a very powerful and free design program, that does have a cutting capability built in. The cut capabilities is very basic, although for a hobbyist, it works well. I used Inkscape almost exclusively for years for both design and cut. Only recently have I started using VM for cutting.

I've had issues where it's like VM doesn't see all the nodes and shapes just go all wonky.

Correct, the fonts are fonts created for SIgnBlazer and the names are the closest matching named font at the time of the creating of the font list.

static perhaps?

VM has some issues with SVGs and I believe they are working on it but for now your best bet is EPS files. If you have to use SVG, a flat SVG seems to be the most reliable option.

It's possibly to cut ok with the blade depth set incorrectly but once do set it correctly the difference in cut quality is night and day.

Here's Cut-In http://abfonts.freehostia.com/simplement.htm Here's Benjamin sort of. It's not a solid fill but it would be easy enough to modify the font once you type out what you want. https://www.1001fonts.com/benjamin-font.html This is a close match for Edda font for the capital letters, lower case isn't very close though. https://www.1001fonts.com/edda-font.html Here's Bulk https://www.ffonts.net/Paper-Punch.font Here's Avondale https://www.whatfontis.com/Mackintosh-SF.font

Yeah, if you're only wanting/needing a handful of them try searching for the Nearest Equivalent Font Name. If that doesn't work, take a screen shot of the font and feed it into what the font or some other font searching program. For example, I just tried to find A015 which says it's nearest equivalent font is Agency Bold. The Agency Bold I found was not even close but what the font found Arruba, which appears to be an exact match. Obviously doing this for each font is not as convenient as if you had the install files but it's probably you're best/only option at this time.