darcshadow

I don't think it's font specific but you can change the spacing between words. Click on the text button on then at the top you should see an Ab with a gear in front of them. Click that and you'll get a new window, the last item in the window adjust the spacing between words. You might also try using this font in a different program to see if it somehow a font issue.

It doesn't work that way for me using Vinyl Master and a MH cutter. The advance after plot doesn't reset the origin point and if I were to send another job the vinyl would back feed to the origin and cut over the design I just made. I have to hit the origin button after every cut. Also, I have not had to reset the cutter to clear the memory. It's not a bad step to do, I've just been lucky I guess and never had a problem with cutting multiple jobs in a row.

If this is a problem with the font and you use this font often you can get font glyph editing tools and modify the font to suit your desire. I think illustrator has tools to edit fonts or there are several stand alone programs.

They way they are running around that, and the sharp corners, that just looks like an accident waiting to happen. ha!

And here's the correct way to set blade depth,

From the manual it looks like the rollers just slide back and forth, which is what I would expect. I did see this in the manual,

I don't know anything about moving the pinch rollers on a Titan, but I do know you have WAY to much blade exposed. You shouldn't be able to see the blade in a photo like the one you posted.

No

I just checked, the photo on USCutter's page that shows the Z-Chip. In the photo it is a LM324N, I would assume the photo is an actual photo of the chip but I'd double check the numbers on the chip in your machine before doing anything. Assuming LM324N is correct, as I suspected it is a basic op amp and you can buy the chip for about 30 cents from various electronic supply shops. Shipping will be the highest cost unless you have a store local that carries misc. chips.

I believe it is a basic op-amp so if you look up the numbers on the chip you should be able to find it, or find one from a different manufacture that has the same electrical capabilities and pinout.

The older versions of the MH the z-chip is in a socket and can easily be replaced. The newer versions, it is soldered to the board, can still be replaced, but will require some soldering skills.

SB was abandoned over a decade ago (creator passed away). As I'm sure you're aware that time span in the tech world might as well be ancient history. I believe you can get the "hacked" version of SB running on windows 10 but I don't think it has all of the features unlocked. You're two options are to reformat the computer and put windows 7 or older on it, or give up on SB and get a modern program. And no, there is no way to do a batch convert of your SB files to something a different program can open.

The belt is not good, but I don't believe it would cause the cutting problem you are noticing. I'd also be concerned as to how the belt got that way. Once replaced I'd keep an eye on the new belt to make sure something is not rubbing it.

That cut looks better, but there's still issues. Your corners are not square and the triangle points are a little off as well. Cut looks kind of deep as well, but that's hard to judge from a photo. Do you have a pen attachment? what does the test cut look like with a pen?

When going from one program to another, I find it best to simplify the file as much as possible. Convert everything to just simple paths, weld everything and get the file as close to cut ready as possible. Then save it off as an eps file and import that into VM.

Is this what you're after? The trace is really ruff, but i did it all in Inkscape in about a minute.

I suggest Inkscape. It's a great free editor. Working with vectors does take a while to wrap your head around but once you get the hang of it I think Inkscape is pretty intuitive. The other big design programs are Adobe Illustrator, and Coral Draw. Both are extremely powerful but also rather pricey. You can also upgrade VM, a bit cheaper and it is a pretty good design program as well although it does things different enough from Inkscape that I still struggle at times trying to do what I think should be really simple. Not that VM can't do it, it just does it in a different way from what I'm use to.

I just noticed you have VM Cut, not sure if it has the ability to do this. I'd suggest downloading Inkscape, it's a very powerful free vector editing program. You can easily add an outline and get the desired result. To make it cut ready you would need to duplicate the black part of the design, add a stroke to the duplicated part, convert the stroke to a path, then subtract the new path from the grey. Union everything together and you'll be ready to cut. Save the file as an EPS, import it into VM Cut and cut away. note: you can also do a copy and paste directly from Inkscape to VM however the size will not be correct and you'll need to adjust the scale to the size you want.

Put a white outline around the black then punch that outline through the grey.

Also be aware that multi colored images are not always cut ready and you could have several layers of color on top of each other. Layering vinyl is ok, but the more layers you have the stiffer it will be.

The offset in the spooler image shouldn't have any effect on where the cutter cuts. You should be set your design space to the same size as your paper, center your design in your design space then pen right at the corner of the paper and turn on absolute position. Then it's just a matter of making sure you get your paper loaded straight and you should be good to go.

Inkscape is a great program once you learn how to use it. It can pretty much do everything you would need except cut. I do all my designing in Inkscape, get it laid out the way I want to cut, then save it and an EPS. Then open my cutting software, Vinyl Master usually, import the EPS file I just created and cut. You can put as many raster images into a file as you want in Inkscape, but you can only vector one at a time. So if you want to load them all into your design, that's fine, you then just need to select one, vector it, select the next one and vector it, and repeat as necessary. Also be aware, when you vector an image in Inkscape, the raster image is still there so you will need to move the vector image out of the way and delete the raster image.

The real question is what do you want to do. That will determine what you should get.

I've not looked into this further, but be warned, even this may not result in smooth curves. If you want truely smooth curves in your files you'll have to design in a vector program, not a cad program. If you're designing everything to scale you probably won't have any issues, but if you design something that has a circle say 1" in diameter and then want to scale that up to cut it to say 10" diameter, the tiny lines that made up the circle will now likely be long enough that you'll notice the circle is not a circle, but rather an n sided polygon.

Your plotter will never show up as a printer. Fusion 360 can not natively export to SVG, but it can be done with a plug in. https://www.instructables.com/Export-a-SVG-File-in-Fusion-360/