darcshadow

That's great for text, but I think he has a design already that needs to be curved. Not sure what it's called in VM, if VM can even do it, but in inkscape it's called Pattern Along Path.

He's trying to get out of the business, but I bet he'd sell you all the equipment to get started on your own.

What about making a nice frame for it, then the edges of the metal would be hidden.

Why is a Miami Florida newspaper, reporting on a Florida snake bite yet warning Carolina residents? Shouldn't they be warning Florida residents? ha Glad to hear the kid is alright.

If you're cutting into the mat you simply have too much blade exposed. Setting the blade depth is the same no matter what it is you're cutting. Follow Mz. Skeeter's instructions which have been posted on here hundreds of times to get the blade depth correct. +1 on Haumana's comment about the material slipping. The whole thing needs to stick to the mat, just just the edges.

For the stuff you referenced, a 28" would be more than big enough. I only do this as a hobby have have a 24" cutter, but I've never had a need to bigger. The few cases where I had a design larger than 24" it was simple to break the design into segments that could easily be cut on a 24" cutter and then pieced together during application.

From a google search, PES files are the commands that are sent to the embroidery machine. You have to use PE-Design software to build your design and then generate the PES file. Do you have PE_Design software?

Sure, it's big enough. Working with that large of a design can be tuff though. Most designs can be broken into smaller more manageable pieces.

I'm guessing you're wanting more of an inline tool. You want the crisp sharp corners on the outside. I don't know in Vinyl Master, but in Inkscape I'd duplicate the design, add a stroke then convert the stroke to a path then merge the two images keeping only where they overlap. leaf.eps

Offset affects corner sharpness, start and stop points not matching up is a tracking issue or a file issue.

Regarding the memory question. It depends on how the cutter protocol is setup. In theory, you are correct, the protocol could be setup so that the data is fed to the cutter from the computer as the cutter needs it. In reality, I'm pretty sure, the cheaper machines require the entire data set be sent to the cutter before the cutter starts. The higher end machines might do streaming, but I kind of doubt it.

You also mentioned the blade was going deep, reset your blade depth following Mz. Skeeter's instructions found all over the place on these forums including a sticking in the instructions section.

That would be my guess. The actual cut look pretty good, the straight lines and sharp corners of the 5 for example look great. The curves are the problem and they look like a setting that determines the number of segments that make up a curve has been set way low.

I don't know anything about that cutter, but sounds to me like an end stop sensor is not connected or not working.

Anyone on here do printed banners? Buddy of mine has gotten into photography and the big thing right now is 3'x5' banners for high school senior athletes. He's been using an online place but is not happy with their web page interface and turn around times. He's looked around town for a local shop but no one can come anywhere close to what the online place charges, they're wanting 4 or 5 times as much. He does all the design and file prep work and sizes everything exactly as needed so all that should be needed is to just print it, and ship it. If any of you do this kind of work and would be interested in a new client in Indiana let me know. I forget where he said he's getting his banners now but I think he said they were like $25 or $30 before shipping.

What OS?

Regarding your transfer speed. 1Kb/s is what you would expect with a 9600 baud setting. 9600 baud is about 960 bytes per second which is about one Kb/s.

What software are you using, and have you tried a different program?

I put up some 631 waves on a textured wall with no problems and pealed them off easily a few years later. Although I could see how a skinny design might have trouble sticking to a textured wall. Surface area plays a really big role in how well something sticks and how easy it is to remove.

I suspect you still have too much blade exposure. The circles that cut all the way through are most likely a combination of too much blade and a double line in the design. With a double or more line, it looks fine in the design but the cutter will go over the line 2 or more times. That with a combination of too much blade exposure would easily cut through the backing paper. When you peal your designs off the backing paper, looks closely at the paper. Is there only a light indentation, or is the paper scored/cut?

no, not really.

Your two cuts back to back, were they over the same area of the plotter? Is it possible you've gouged your cutting strip in some areas?

I would suggest a 24" cutter. Aside from vinyl being easily found in that size, once people at the school realize what all can be done with a vinyl cutter I expect it'll be used quite heavily for stuff around the school.

Kind of a side question, you always hear about running windows stuff on Macs, does anyone ever run mac stuff on windows?

If the cutter doesn't drop when power is turned off I don't think that's an electronics problem. With power removed there should be nothing holding the cut head up and it should just fall. The only two reasons I can think of that would prevent that, would be something physically blocking the head from moving, or power is not actually being removed from the solenoid.