darcshadow

And if SCAL doesn't work for you, you can always use Signblazer. It's what I first used and still do occasionally.

You're going to have to provide a bit more info. It doesn't work, doesn't tell us what your actual problem is. Have you installed the Tripp-Lite drivers? Have you configured your comm ports? Have you setup SCAL4 to use the correct comm port? Are you using a null modem cable? Are you getting an error of any kind? What exactly is happening?

ok, now I understand. Yes, what arty said to do will work. A second option you can do, is punch the white through the red. This will turn the letters into paths but it also means your cut image is all one single color. I prefer doing this but it's just a personal preference. I also like to convert text to paths once the design is finalized so that if for some reason I ever loose the original font file, or go to a computer that does not have that font, the vector file will not be effected. Also, if you still want to use signcut to do the cutting, you can export files from SB into eps format that signcut should then be able to open.

What Arty said will cut both colors at the same time, but I'm having a hard time picturing exactly what you're wanting. I suspect cutting both colors at the same time is not going to produce the results you're after. Could you post a screen shot of what you're trying to do, or if you don't want to post the actual sign, maybe make up a generic version.

Illustrator and Corel Draw are probably the biggest two on the market but both have a pretty steep learning curve. SB is pretty easy to get started with so you might want to play around with it a little learning more about vector in general then when you outgrow it move on to one of the other two.

Vector magic is a trace program, it takes a raster image and converts it to a vector image that you can then send to your cutter. So what you need to do, is take the vector created by Vector Magic, open it in a vector design program, delete the traced wording and replace it with the correct font.

Cause it's easier and faster to find someone that already has done all the work. A note on recreating it if you can't find a kit, that stripe on the top will not be as simple as it looks. The curves of the hood and ruff mess with you and a straight piece of vinyl will not go on straight on those curves. You're best bet is a good wrap vinyl and some knifeless tape.

Yeah, that looks like an auto trace. Letters never trace well and you're better off finding the font and recreating the wording of what ever image you're tracing.

I'll let someone that knows AI help you out, I don't know that program. In Inkscape, all you have to do is enter the node editing mode then just select and delete the individual nodes. I would assume it's similar in AI.

That's not bad, so what are you not happy with? You simply need to do some node editing to remove the remaining letters and maybe sharpen up some of the corners.

Depends on the hub, some are, some are not. But in order to connect 2 computers to a hub you'd need a special USB male-male cable and then a female to female cable for connecting to the plotter. It'd be cheaper to get the switch I linked to above.

Have you tried using the pen holder and drawn the B on paper, does it still do the exact same thing?

Didn't even know the USB thing existed till I just did a google search. The serial box switch, I've not used that exact model, but I've used several through the years, they've been around since pretty much the beginning of computers.

That's pretty cool. Don't know exactly what they're using, but black rub-n-buff might produce similar results.

What speeds and pressures are you running at? How much blade exposure do you have? If you can see the blade easily, you have too much. There are dozens of post on here about how to set the correct blade depth.

You could try a USB sharing switch like this one https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=181-000W-00005&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Cables+-+USB+Cables-_-181-000W-00005&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlMXMBRC1ARIsAKKGuwgIEtRujJXw-0zzXj7uEcuyYMHadIe4akumCJe6lGHNTI-eeW5cGCoaAiFsEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Don't know if it'd work or not. I know some usb HUBs won't work because they don't allow true bi-directional comms. From the description it sounds like it should work. The other option would be a 2-way serial switch box like this https://www.showmecables.com/2-way-manual-db9-switch-box?gclid=Cj0KCQjwlMXMBRC1ARIsAKKGuwgeeSQLfvINGjZukUJTw8JV5mY1RRnrT4UkxRbigK2ozqzhhzDjfr0aAo9JEALw_wcB

Can anyone identify this font? I found GulimChe to be pretty close but not exact.

I think that one will work. Thanks.

Might try just slowing it down. I don't know what the SC capabilities are, but that video seemed pretty quick to me. On a side note, for future videos, turn your phone sideways so that the video appears correctly when viewed on a computer.

Water, that's another thing to be sure to get, get a water separator for the hose and put it as near the blast cabinet as possible.

What are you putting in for quantity on the time entry? 1 minute would be 0.016 hours. What results do you get if you put in 40 for unit cost, and 0.016 for Quantity for Sign Preparation, Weeding, Application?

Here's a link to the topic where I posted a photo of my setup. It might seem odd having the hand holes on two different sides but it worked out really well with the size of the tote and gave me good maneuverability.

For simple decals, 651 will work, but 751 or 851 is usually recommended. Just depends on how long the decal is expected to last.

I don't believe so, at least not easily. If you want to go the air eraser route, you can build a little blast using a plastic tote. That's what I did to start with. Worked ok for doing glasses but took forever, 15-20min, to do a single glass where as with the siphon gun in the cabinet I could do a glass in about a minute. I believe I posted photos of my setup on here someplace.

I have not used that tool, but judging from the screen I would guess you put in your hourly rate under unit cost, and then under quantity how many hours it took you for a single decal.