darcshadow

What software are you using?

Have you tried slowing down your cutting speed?

That seems like a software bug.

cutting strip would be my guess

When you cut normally do the shapes come out the correct size? Try drawing a simple box, say 2" square and cut it. Does it measure exactly 2"? The reason I ask, is the cut you have pictured, despite being misaligned, does not appear to be the correct size. It looks a little squashed to me. If your square does not measure correctly you need to adjust your steps per inch settings in your software. I have not used EasyCutPro so I don't know where exactly that setting is located, according to the manual, "When you hit cut to bring up the cut window, there is a Step size setting". I would assume there is also a calibration procedure. If not, you can do the math to figure it out. Current steps per inch*(size of box, 2" in my example)/(actual size of box) So for example, say your steps per inch is 1000, you design a 2" box, it actually cuts at 1.75". You get 2000/1.75 = 1143 so you need to change your steps per inch to 1143. Once that is set, you can continue on trying to figure out why the cut is not aligned with the print.

Think of it like a sports car, just because it can hit 200mph, doesn't mean it is designed to cruise at 200mph all day.

I wonder if you need to lower the pressure. You shouldn't be getting black marks on the vinyl like that.

They are called drag blades and are held in place by a magnet. As the cutter head drags the blade around it spins freely so that the knife is orientated the proper cutting direction. A drop of oil in the holder can help, but not often needed. 45 vs 60 is the degree of the cutting edge. 60 will cut sharp detail and thicker material better but will also dull faster. Personally I just use a 60 all the time.

Has your computer done an update lately? Have you tried a different computer?

Are the images copies of each other or is it just one large image with multiple parts? Also, looks like you may need to adjust your calibrations a little. Object in the bottom right looks ok, other than the big problem, but the image in the top left, the outline is not a constant spacing around the object.

Closest I could find is Callahan. It appears to be a brush stroke version of what you. https://www.dafont.com/callahan.font?text=Precision&psize=l

Look around for used ones. I bought one for powder coating for like $20. Spent another $5 or so for a 220V plug to put on it, and $40 to put a new 22V plug in my garage. I don't recall ever reading on here, is sublimation in an oven "toxix" for the oven? Can the oven still be used for food? Power Coating the answer is no, but sublimation might be "cleaner".

I too don't know anything about sublimation, but have you tried pre heating the entire cup? Metal tumblers are great a dissipating heat and from what I've picked up from the forums even heat and pressure seem to be critical. I know for powder coating pre-heating the part can help get a good bond.

Different colors or gradients of greys?

The best option would be to have the bank give you the original artwork to play around with. Short of that you're going to have to recreate that logo. Trying to trace it will not produce good results. Find the font and manually trace it. It tracing won't be hard, just a little time consuming. With that said, have you tried to create a vector version yourself yet, and if so, what do you need help with? Or by help, are you hoping someone will just do it for you?

If it's a single color image it could be laser etched.

ha! If the delivery person actually did that, that's awesome.

EPS is a vector format, although it is possible to have a raster image in a vector format file.

Can't relay on autodetect, and even if it does work, windows will auto detect it as a comm port you'll still have to tell your software what port it is. The usb interface on a MH is nothing more than a cheap USB to serial adapter.

That's not a bad idea, so long as you remember it and don't toss it out when the computer dies. ha!

I believe the generic FTDI drivers you can find will work. The USB on the MH is iffy at best and you are better off using the serial port. If your computer does not have a serial port, the Tripp-lite Keystone adapter is known to work.

Keep in mind, the app tape doesn't have to be perfect. Just avoid wrinkles and creases the best you can. Even then, those can be worked during install and not cause a problem. If you're doing a lot of large decals, you might consider getting/making something like this; https://uscutter.com/Aluminum-Big-Squeegee-Laminator-Tool/

The most annoying thing, the change to the start menu could be undone with a change in the registry settings however they disabled even that in the last update. I don't get it, why remove an option that clearly people want. If the option was never there in the update I get it, but the code is already there, and is actually probably still there, they just turned off the switch.

I don't recall ever seeing an option like that in VM. You will just have to set the zoom manually, 80%, to get true size. Inkscape has a option kind of like what you're wanting. You set the zoom level you want to get the correct size then when you click on the 1:1 zoom option it'll go to that setting. Only way I can think of to get the ruler to measure correctly while also at 100% zoom would be to change the DPI/resolution of your monitor.

I delayed it once but it installed anyway the next time I rebooted. Other than stupid rearranging of things and removing stuff I used frequently, it's not bad. Took me an hours or so to figure out how to undo stupid things they changed. Hate the new start menu. They also change the right click on files things. They took away the send to option and hid it in a sub menu. I use the send to all the time! Took me a good while to find online how to get the send to back. Seems like they do a survey, figure out what people use the most, and then get rid of them.