darcshadow

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Everything posted by darcshadow

  1. You might try running it on a serial cable. As stated, the cutter doesn't have much memory, but in theory anyway, the amount of memory shouldn't really matter if you have the comms are working correctly. The memory is basically just a buffer to allow the computer to send the data to the cutter faster than it is able to cut. So in theory, once the cut is done, the memory should be clear and you should be able to cut again. I do this all the time with no problems using the cut function in Inkscape. From my time here on the boards though it sounds like I am the one off as lots of people report problems and resetting the machine/clearing the memory is what fixes their problem. Personally I suspect resetting the machine is fixing a different problem and everyone just accredits it to a memory problem.
  2. Poorly cut

    That looks like way too much blade. For normal vinyl anyway, you can only just barely see the blade. I also agree with haumana, that cut doesn't look like the blade is rotating. I suppose it could possible that is caused by too much blade exposure and too much pressure. Look for Mz. Skeeter's posts on how to set correct blade height and start from there.
  3. Is it the app tape or is it the vinyl?

    I drove the road to Hana back in '11. Man was that fun, only down side was the wife being with me I couldn't drive like I really wanted to. I was doing the speed limit or below the entire drive and she still complained I was driving too fast.
  4. Vinyl catches on edge

    Some times the simplest solutions are overlooked the easiest.
  5. Connecting Segments

    Overcut could explain not closing the cut fully, but if the egg is a solid path the cutter/software shouldn't be cutting it segments.
  6. It'd also be worth your time to work with and learn AI so that you can do your design in AI and skip the vectoring portion. Vectoring is never as good as an original vector, especially when fonts are involved.
  7. Vinyl catches on edge

    same here, just used some clear scotch tape.
  8. Connecting Segments

    Ok, so the egg has three segments when cutting the plastic, it does the same when cutting Vinyl? That sounds like a design issue. If the egg is designed as one continuous line it should cut that way. Post the egg vector and we'll take a look at it. The fact that it cuts the vinyl just fine in one pass and the plastic takes 4 passes and doesn't cut perfect would be a tracking issue for the plastic. But if we can get it to at least do the whole egg in a continuous segment that would help.
  9. Connecting Segments

    Does it cut normal vinyl fine? Or if you have a pen attachment option will it draw a circle fine? When you say it's cutting in segments, you mean like it cuts a portion then picks the blade up, moves do a different part of the circle and cut another portion? Or are you just meaning when it completes the circle the start and end points are matching up exactly? If it's the first problem, that could be a funking vector file, post it here and someone can take a look. If it's the second problem, that's just a tracking issue and depending on the cutter you have, there may not be much that can be done to correct it. Confirm your offsets and over cuts are set correctly and that the material is not slipping while cutting.
  10. Tapered glasses and stuff

    Ok, re-looked at my equation and I'm still happy with it. Regarding your statement, yeah, the height will go down but if you start with a tall skinny image even after shrinking it down to the desired width it might still be too tall for the glass.
  11. Tapered glasses and stuff

    I need to re-look at my equation from the other post, I think it maybe a bit off now. One other thing to think of, using a percentage coverage might not be the best method. It gives you the max width for your image, but if your image is tall, when you resize it tot he calculated width it might be too tall for the glass.
  12. Tapered glasses and stuff

    The problem with just subtracting is it is only correct if your design has equal height and width. If for example the design in your example was only 0.41" tall to start with now it's height is 0. The correct height for the new width should be 0.35. You need to shrink the height by the same percentage as the apparent width shrank. So in your example the actual width is 2.83, the perceived width is 2.42 so that a change of 85.5%. So shrink the height by the same percentage and the image should then look correctly, when viewed straight on.
  13. Tapered glasses and stuff

    Couple of comments. You start out by multiplying by 360 then dividing by 360, you could have just started with 0.3, which is the same as 30%. You do need the angle so 360*.3 is necessary at some point. PI * Diameter * coverage, I agree with sin(angle) * Diameter, I agree gives you the apparent width of the design. But unless your design is a square you will need to do some division and multiplaction, not simple subtraction. New height = original height * apparent width / original width, or using your numbers above, you never stated a design height so I'll just say it is 2" after you scaled the design to 2.83 wide, New height = 2 * 2.42 / 2.83 = 1.71 So now, scale the design, without the width/height locked, to a height of 1.71
  14. Tapered glasses and stuff

    Here's what I came up with, I worked it so the original image width says the same and the height is adjusted to account for the distortion. H = h/w*D*sin(w/D) h - height of image w - width of image D - diameter of cup H - new height for image
  15. Tapered glasses and stuff

    No, the template from the link only accounts for the cone shape and ensures that what ever you put on it comes out looking straight. The distortion I'm referring to is from the fact that when you look at the image, the edges curve away from you giving the appearance that the image is not as wide as designed. You don't notice it on most designs, but things like circles that the mind knows is suppose to be symmetric in all directions will jump out as Cal mentioned. In order to get a circle to appear correct you have to start with an oval that is wider than tall, then put it on your template. The math I came up with is for a cylinder, but it should be close enough for most cups/glasses.
  16. Tapered glasses and stuff

    Something else to keep in mind for glasses, aside from accounting for the cone shape, you might also want/need to account for the cylinder shape. Meaning once you account for the cone and get things straight, if you want to put say a square on the glass, and see the whole square when you look at it straight on, it will appear as a rectangle. Most designs it's not an issue, but every now and then you'll have something that just doesn't look quite right. Here is a thread discussing this as well as the math I came up with to account for it.
  17. The plotter will NOT show up in your device screen. The USB device that you install is a comm port not a printer/plotter. Look in your comm port listings and you should see your new comm port. Plug your null modem cable into your adapter and point your software to the comm port number that you see in device manager and you should be good to go. Some software limits the comm port numbers you can use so you might need to change the comm port number through the device manager page.
  18. Tapered glasses and stuff

    I think you just make do on wine glasses, there's no easy way to do stuff on curves. And once they drink enough of the wine the image will look just fine.
  19. Tapered glasses and stuff

    Personally I prefer 25%-30% coverage. Anything much larger than that and you can no longer see the full image without rotating the glass.
  20. Cutting paper and card stock

    I don't think goo gone works well on paper.
  21. How complex is the logo, it maybe easier and faster to recreate it, or manually trace it. Manually tracing is a good skill to have regardless. If the image isn't protected and you don't mine posting it, post it up and we can offer suggestions on how to get a good vector version to use for cutting.
  22. MH721 and Win 10

    I think it is redsail.
  23. Mask material recomendations

    I believe that should be Avery, guessing auto correct dropped the A. ha
  24. Blade Pressure Will Not Change. Please Help!!

    The MH's are pretty "dumb" and things like speed and pressure can only be set through the control panel on the machine.
  25. Signblazer has stopped working claims to be a virus

    Have you tried setting up your anti-virus to ignore the signblazer program? The code of signblazer has long been thought to be a virus by most scanners simply because the program is so old and how it did things are not considered "safe" in today's computing world and anti-virus programs think something suspicious is going on. You should be able to setup your On Demand scan to ignore individual programs that you know are safe and ok to run.