darcshadow

Unless you have a backup someplace I believe you're out of luck.

The USB interface on the MHs is nothing more than a generic USB to serial chip so depending on the driver Ubuntu is using, that could be the source of the problem.

This is a users forum with occasional visits from company reps. Assuming you have a legitimate and legal copy of the software you're best bet is contact VinylMaster directly.

One advantage of software not being supported anymore, they stop messing with it. Support just means they keep poking at it and "fixing" it. In most cases I'd prefer my software not be supported. ha! The only reason I ever upgrade OS is if something I really want to use is not supported on old OSs, and even then, it's usually kicking and screaming before I'll make the switch. I love new tech, but hate change. Poses a real conundrum.

ah! sorry. I think you have a problem with SB then, not your driver. SB should show your USB ports no matter what device drivers you have. Does the new laptop have "normal" usb ports? Several new computer only have USB-C, or USB-3. USB3 connectors look like traditional USB ports but are blue inside, or have and SS near them. SB might be old enough that it doesn't recognize USB3, I've not tried it on a newer machine. There are several on here that still use SB, maybe one of them can chime in if it works with USB3 ports or not. Might try uninstalling and reinstalling SB. In the mean time, what you could do, install the graphtec software and use it to cut with. You can still do your design and layout in SB, then just export it as an EPS file and open that into the graphtec software. I have not used said software, but from what I understand you should find it's much more capable than SB and works quite well.

You have 3 USB ports showing on the first screen, plug your cutter into one and select it. The Blazer thing you're looking at Blazer.COM1, on the other computer a serial port.

What is the file extension of the files you're trying to open? If the icon is different from what you're expecting you've probably saved them in a different file format. How did you save them?

We are just a bunch of users, you're going to have to contact Sign Master's help desk.

I'd suggest slowing it down if you're having issues with details. I have a MH and typically only run around 150-200 mm/s. My pressure is usually around 150 as well.

Haven't not heard of that, but my first step would be to verify you have the latest drivers for the video card. If you do, then I'd try reinstalling Photoshop.

Interesting, seems like something is wrong someplace. What does the font look like in other programs?

What software are you using, and have you registered it? Several cutting software tools will cut an X through a design if the software is not registered.

I'm a little confused, you say the kerning and text width seem to be spot on and you say the the text are exactly the same height, so what is different?

Clean Cut Blades are hard to beat and last a long time. And a lot of people go with the 60 degree blade and just use it for everything. Unless you're doing a lot of relatively low detail designs, the hassle of switching back and forth between 45 and 60 is just not worth it.

Step size, traditionally refers to the amount of movement for a single step of a stepper motor. Plotters with solenoid motors really shouldn't use the term step size for anything, it can cause confusion. In this case, the "steps" they are referring to is how the software breaks down curves. Curves are really just a bunch of really short straight lines, the shorter the line the smoother the curve.

What is different between Wife's computer and yours?

Yeah, that's a Windows thing. Sometimes, Windows will remember the size and location of a window when you close it. You might also try turning off the open maximized option, typically done by editing the shortcut, but Windows 10 and 11 have messed that stuff up so badly it's hard to say how to get Windows to behave the way you want.

Is that the problem you're trying to fix? You should have just said that from the start, that is a software issue. You just need to adjust the calibration in the software and you'll be good to go. I am not familiar with EasyCut, but Some where there should be a calibration option, or a Steps per Inch setting.

Use a different program such as inkscape to create the design. Convert the text to paths, save the file as an EPS, import to SB and cut.

No idea on password, but what setting are you trying to change? Looking at the manual it looks like there are only 3 things, speed, force, and baud rate. Speed and force are just adjusted with the arrow keys while the plotter is offline. Baud rate is adjusted with the settings button.

Vinyl Master can do that, the plugin for Inkscape did as well I believe. Don't know about SCALP though, sorry.

The circuit breaker is to protect the wiring of the house not the equipment plugged into the outlet.

And if you use the serial connection you don't need drivers for the cutter.

Somethings not right there. The number on the left is what it should cut to. Try this. draw a box that is 6.209x31.027 and center it on your text. The text should fill the box and touch the edges. Now cut it and measure the size of the box. If it cuts at 6" tall your calibration is off.

The text height setting and the actual height setting are not the same thing. The text height accounts for letters like g that hang below the bottom of the letters. Although this particular font, I would expect the text height and the actual height to be the same. I've never understood the point of that setting, I'm assuming it comes from an older type set mind set when people had to manually pace the dies in the printers. If you cut this image and it was 6" high, then you have a scaling issue and need to calibrate your software/cutter. The image should have cut at 6.2" tall and 31" wide.