darcshadow

Also, it's not absolutely critical it all goes straight. If your design doesn't use up the whole width, and is not too long a little drift won't matter. The tracking for the design will still be good just not aligned to the edges, not really a big deal.

Heat transfer's you want mirrored like that so that when you apply the vinyl to the shirt it comes out right. But to answer your actual question, yes, VinylMaster, and as far as I know, all cutting software, has a mirror option.

A bit more research into VM, and what I call a stroke in Inkscape, VM calls a pen style. So you should be able to do in VM, what I did in Inkscape.

As Dakota said, it's just a simple momentary switch, you should be able to pick up something at your local electronics store and make it work. You don't need something the exact shape or size. Just something you can affix to the cutter in the correct location. May not look pretty but you can do quite a bit with super glue, hot glue, and solder. I can't tell exactly from your photos, but is it just a case of the wires came disconnected? If so, a little bit of soldering should take care of that.

Duplicating and resizing can work, but not in most cases. Text and complex shapes simply scaling up the size does not give you the same results as an outline.

Looks like Flexi and the fill option is what you want. There may be other options, this was the first one I found.

Some programs do have a fill option that people have used with a marker. It basically adds a bunch of lines to areas that are "solid". Works ok for markers with a wide enough tip but would not work with a pen very well. I don't recall the name of the software or the name of the feature. Maybe someone who remembers it, or has done it will reply here.

What does the design look like in wire frame mode?

You can buy those mats individually and use them with your cutter. If they're not big enough you could try making your own. Get some poster board and a light adhesive, cover the board, apply the mylar and hope for the best.

Ok, so I had to go look up mylar stencils. When I, and probably most people, think Mylar, I think mylar balloons or mylar blankets, thin shinny material. Cutting that on a cutter would be virtually impossible I think. However, from what I can tell, they type of mylar you are talking about is more of a thin plastic or a thick film rather than the shinny stuff I'm thinking of. At 4 mil you shouldn't have too much trouble. standard vinyl is around 2.5 mil so increasing the pressure, adjusting the blade depth, and possibly making 2 passes should get you a decent cut. The next question though, does the material have a sticky back and come on a carrier sheet. If it does you should be good. If it does not, you'll need some sort of carrier sheet to attach the mylar to in order to feed it into your cutter. If you try to cut without a backing material or carrier sheet you'll ruin your cutting strip, not get a good cut, and waste your material.

That's great for text, but I think he has a design already that needs to be curved. Not sure what it's called in VM, if VM can even do it, but in inkscape it's called Pattern Along Path.

He's trying to get out of the business, but I bet he'd sell you all the equipment to get started on your own.

What about making a nice frame for it, then the edges of the metal would be hidden.

Why is a Miami Florida newspaper, reporting on a Florida snake bite yet warning Carolina residents? Shouldn't they be warning Florida residents? ha Glad to hear the kid is alright.

If you're cutting into the mat you simply have too much blade exposed. Setting the blade depth is the same no matter what it is you're cutting. Follow Mz. Skeeter's instructions which have been posted on here hundreds of times to get the blade depth correct. +1 on Haumana's comment about the material slipping. The whole thing needs to stick to the mat, just just the edges.

For the stuff you referenced, a 28" would be more than big enough. I only do this as a hobby have have a 24" cutter, but I've never had a need to bigger. The few cases where I had a design larger than 24" it was simple to break the design into segments that could easily be cut on a 24" cutter and then pieced together during application.

From a google search, PES files are the commands that are sent to the embroidery machine. You have to use PE-Design software to build your design and then generate the PES file. Do you have PE_Design software?

Sure, it's big enough. Working with that large of a design can be tuff though. Most designs can be broken into smaller more manageable pieces.

I'm guessing you're wanting more of an inline tool. You want the crisp sharp corners on the outside. I don't know in Vinyl Master, but in Inkscape I'd duplicate the design, add a stroke then convert the stroke to a path then merge the two images keeping only where they overlap. leaf.eps

Offset affects corner sharpness, start and stop points not matching up is a tracking issue or a file issue.

Regarding the memory question. It depends on how the cutter protocol is setup. In theory, you are correct, the protocol could be setup so that the data is fed to the cutter from the computer as the cutter needs it. In reality, I'm pretty sure, the cheaper machines require the entire data set be sent to the cutter before the cutter starts. The higher end machines might do streaming, but I kind of doubt it.

You also mentioned the blade was going deep, reset your blade depth following Mz. Skeeter's instructions found all over the place on these forums including a sticking in the instructions section.

That would be my guess. The actual cut look pretty good, the straight lines and sharp corners of the 5 for example look great. The curves are the problem and they look like a setting that determines the number of segments that make up a curve has been set way low.

I don't know anything about that cutter, but sounds to me like an end stop sensor is not connected or not working.

Anyone on here do printed banners? Buddy of mine has gotten into photography and the big thing right now is 3'x5' banners for high school senior athletes. He's been using an online place but is not happy with their web page interface and turn around times. He's looked around town for a local shop but no one can come anywhere close to what the online place charges, they're wanting 4 or 5 times as much. He does all the design and file prep work and sizes everything exactly as needed so all that should be needed is to just print it, and ship it. If any of you do this kind of work and would be interested in a new client in Indiana let me know. I forget where he said he's getting his banners now but I think he said they were like $25 or $30 before shipping.