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Everything posted by darcshadow

  1. darcshadow

    Tapered glasses and stuff

    Personally I prefer 25%-30% coverage. Anything much larger than that and you can no longer see the full image without rotating the glass.
  2. darcshadow

    Cutting paper and card stock

    I don't think goo gone works well on paper.
  3. How complex is the logo, it maybe easier and faster to recreate it, or manually trace it. Manually tracing is a good skill to have regardless. If the image isn't protected and you don't mine posting it, post it up and we can offer suggestions on how to get a good vector version to use for cutting.
  4. darcshadow

    MH721 and Win 10

    I think it is redsail.
  5. darcshadow

    Mask material recomendations

    I believe that should be Avery, guessing auto correct dropped the A. ha
  6. darcshadow

    Blade Pressure Will Not Change. Please Help!!

    The MH's are pretty "dumb" and things like speed and pressure can only be set through the control panel on the machine.
  7. darcshadow

    Signblazer has stopped working claims to be a virus

    Have you tried setting up your anti-virus to ignore the signblazer program? The code of signblazer has long been thought to be a virus by most scanners simply because the program is so old and how it did things are not considered "safe" in today's computing world and anti-virus programs think something suspicious is going on. You should be able to setup your On Demand scan to ignore individual programs that you know are safe and ok to run.
  8. I'd have to double check, but I believe that is all it should show up as in Device manager. The "USB" connection is nothing more than a cheap USB-2-Serial converter. Just point your software to Comm 7 and you should be good to go.
  9. darcshadow

    Help making a vector, I can buy ya a 6 pack

    Not advocating anything illegal but this design is not much more than a bunch if circles and pretty easy to recreate . What vector program are you using? Basically just draw a circle then another and another then cut and weld till you get the results you want. We can't make thia for you but we can give you the tools.
  10. darcshadow

    Image help

    Auto tracing is iffy at best in most programs. If you have a really high resolution image auto trace can do a decent job, but best bet is to manually trace/recreate an image. In this example, it wouldn't be too hard, the shield design is pretty basic and could be done by hand. The fonts will be a little trickier but most decent design programs and distort fonts as in the design. The only thing you wouldn't get would be the grunge/worn look, and with cut vinyl you really want to stay away from that type of design anyway.
  11. darcshadow

    Sticker Bomb pattern

    Kind of doubt you'll find a legal pattern to buy since most of what I saw on the google search had obvious copyright and trademarked images in the mix.
  12. I don't know how the original poster did it, but I would do it by making two outlines. Make a white outline around the word, then make a second outline of the white in the grey/silver color, then delete the white outline.
  13. Making the switch to a true serial connection, or a good adapter is the way to go. You can run a cheap serial cable 50ft with little to no problems.
  14. darcshadow

    Newbie help woth a font

  15. darcshadow

    MH Refine 721 Help

    Static would be my first guess, and easiest to remedy. Ground the stand that the vinyl rest on. You can either run a grounding wire from the stand to a ground point on the cutter, or to a local ground such as the ground pin on a standard outlet. Second possible problem is that you're using a mac. The MH cutters are sold as not compatible with macs. I suspect this is more an issue with the cheap usb chipset than anything else. which brings us to the 3rd thing. Are you using USB or serial? Serial is recommended as the USB-2-Serial chipset built into the MH is cheap junk. If you don't have a true serial connection you can get a tripp-lite adapter. It is the only one known to work every time, all the time.
  16. darcshadow

    I’m back but how long?

    It's a streaming service, a little like Netflix or Hulu, but it's people playing video games.
  17. Bit late now I realize, but this is one of those reasons why you always make note of the settings you start with before making any changes.
  18. darcshadow

    no image cut

    Also, what software are you using?
  19. I know how to account for the cone shape of a cup to get the image to go straight, my question is does anyone have a formula that accounts for how the image looks on the vertical curve. For example, if you place a square on a cylinder and then look at it straight on, depending on the radius of the cylinder and the size of the square, it will look like a rectangle. It will appear to be taller than wide. Anyone have a calculation to compensate for this?
  20. darcshadow

    High temp vinyl

    Don't think I'd want to try reflective as a stencil, that stuff is a pain in the butt to removed, rips real easy.
  21. darcshadow

    Distortion Correction on Cup

    This only accounts for the cone shape and getting the design to be straight, does not account for the perceived width verses actual width of the image.
  22. darcshadow

    Distortion Correction on Cup

    A string and straight edge would work. Lay the straight edge across the top of the cup and set it for the width of your image, then take the string and wrap it around the cup to get the length of the arc. Then just stretch the image out to the length of the arc. That should work, I like knowing the math as well.
  23. darcshadow

    Distortion Correction on Cup

    That'll get you close, but not exact, and there's the question of not knowing both blue and red, you only know one or the other. I edited my previous post so you might have missed my equation that I came up with.
  24. darcshadow

    Distortion Correction on Cup

    Wildgoose, I don't think we're talking about the same thing. Here's a diagram. In order to get the red square to appear square on the cylinder, it will need to be stretched to the size of the blue rectangle. Go-C, after doing the math, 10% is pretty close to what the match comes back with. It'll vary some depending on size of cup/cylinder and size of image but 10% is a good ballpark. After some more thinking I think I decided I want to shrink the height rather than change to width so here is my new equation. H = h/w*D*sin(w/D) h - height of image w - width of image D - diameter of cup H - new height for image
  25. darcshadow

    High temp vinyl

    Are you wanting to use the vinyl just as a stencil? If so, I've found that if you put the cup in just long enough to get the powder to flow, then pull it out, let it cool a little then remove the vinyl and stick it back in for the full cure it works quite well. Timing on removing the vinyl is key. If it is too hot adhesive residue gets left on the cup and is a pain to get off after the full bake. However if you wait till the vinyl and powder are too cold removing the vinyl is harder and the lines are not as crisp. For designs with a lot of pieces to remove I will use a heat gun to keep the vinyl and powder in the sweet spot for removal. If you're putting the decal on to stay and then clear coating over it, I have not tried that yet, but I've read online where most powders can be baked at a slightly lower temperature for a longer period of time. There are also some lower temperature clear coats that cure as low as 325 to 350.