darcshadow

Sounds like you're on the right pat, I'm not sure why it is not working. You didn't mention deleting the original image before saving the vector file. Most vector files are rather small so if your saved image is to big to post I'm suspecting the raster image is still imbedded in the file. Try deleting that and then open the file in your cutting software. The file size should be quite a bit smaller now as well, if it is still not working try posting it here and we'll take a look at it. Thank you for trying and not simply asking someone to do it for you.

Was down to $1.78 in Fort Worth, last week, back up to the $1.90's now.

Do you have the baud rate set correct? What happens when you click the test connection button?

It shouldn't cut half a letter then move to a different letter, then come back, that's weird. The only way I would think that would happen would be if the letters were actually two separate objects. Typically a cutter would cut a full object/line, then move to the next. Some software you can tell it to minimize vinyl movement, or cutter movement, or cut in the most efficient manor but what you're describing sounds like a glitch some where.

Yeah, I didn't convert the objects back to 100% before I saved it. Try this one. BannerRibbon.svg

Using Inkscape, the top left corner of the castle is composed of two individual nodes and the object is not closed. Inkscape doesn't support eps natively though, so the conversion process it does may not be an exact copy of what you see with your program.

I don't know Illustrator but I would image there is a rather easy to use trace feature. Someone with AI experience can speak to that. I do know Inkscape (free) has a pretty decent auto trace that is easy to learn and for this image would likely produce a decent trace that would need little editing/cleanup.

Here's my go at it. BannerRibbon.svg

I have no experience with this vinyl but looking at the spec sheet it just looks like standard cast vinyl. It's 50 microns thick which is about 2mils, which is what the Oracal 751 vinyl is. Don't believe you'd need to do anything special other than slight adjustment to blade depth and/or pressure just like you should do any time you change vinyl, even different colors of the same type of vinyl can need slight adjustments to cut settings.

Seems like this would be a pretty easy image to practice vectoring. You said you needed help, were you actually asking for help in how to do it, or just hoping someone would do it for you? If you're actually wanting help, what have you done/tried and what did the results look like?

What state? and do you have the actual text of the law?

Search on here for rainjackets, some of the suggestions in that thread might work for you.

I don't have signblazer in front of me to tell you exactly, but when you click the open file option, the screen that comes up has some check boxes on the side. I forget exactly what it says, but there is one that if you click it, it will add the file being opened to the current image you are working with. Another option would be to just open two instances of Signblazer and copy from one to the other.

That image looks stretched, at 2" tall it should be closer to 4.8" long.

For manual tracing I do the reverse of Wildgoose, I leave the image 100% and set my lines/fills to 50% opacity, or what ever seems the best for the colors involved.

I've cut reflective with mine with no issues. Just raised the pressure a little, and adjusted the amount of blade sticking out.

Same steps can be using in AI, I'm just more familiar with Inkscape.

Just did a manual trace in Inkscape using the bezler tool. For a simple design like this it's pretty quick and easy. For more complicated designs I'll give the auto trace in Inkscape a go and then node edit as necessary to clean it up. This would be a good design to practice on. I started with tracing the white portion of the letters. Then I added an outline to the letters till I got the desired thickness of the red line. Then duplicated the letters and shifted them down and over to get the drop shadow effect. Then trace the black lines and you're done.

Here's a manual trace, was bored and have some free time. SCS.eps

The white doesn't look right to me, I think it's the eyes. Looks much better as a dark color on light background.

A cast vinyl might work better than calendared also.

Does the rain jacket have a waxy coating? Does water bead up on it? If so, that's probably your main problem. You could possibly scuff up the area you are putting the lettering with a brillo pad. Don't know how well that would look though.

Anyone ever try to wrap a full face helmet? I'm looking at a new lid and the price is great but the graphic is kind of dumb. Was wondering how difficult it'd be to wrap, if it's even possible.

In regard to getting crisp lines when painting. Try painting the edges with the same base color, let it dry, then paint the actual color you want. This way the base color seals the edge of the vinyl and prevents the actual color from bleeding under the vinyl. Although if you want the main portion of the sign wood and unpainted this would not work, although you might be able to use a clear coat to seal the edges of the vinyl prior to painting the letters.

Inkscape has an option, Break Apart. I forget what it's called in SignBlazer but there is something similar to it. It will probably break apart more then you really want but it can be handy.