darcshadow

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Everything posted by darcshadow

  1. You want to tape the bottom layer. Even using the parchment trick, if you don't have the base in a fixed location it'll make keeping things lined up a pain.
  2. darcshadow

    High heel, need help

    I don't know LXI, but what did you try and why was "wrong" with the results you were getting? This image looks like it'd be pretty easy to trace. Manual trace would be pretty easy to do and an auto trace should produce decent results as well.
  3. darcshadow

    High heel, need help

    Sandy, you asked for help, but didn't indicate what you tried, what software you're using, or the results you got that you were unhappy with. Were you actually looking for help on how to do it, or just someone to do it for you?
  4. darcshadow

    Slacking on the finished products

    Which is why customers should not be designers. ha!
  5. darcshadow

    black to white

    Busterbaby, your post above showing your results from the break apart is what Inkscape does as well. I simply had to edit the result on the right to complete the shape and remove the white area of the face and pizza box.
  6. darcshadow

    black to white

    Don't know SCAL, but in inkscape, select the image, duplicate it and move it off to the side to make working with it easier. Then break apart, union all the parts, change to a color you can see on your screen (red), add a stroke(red), and slide the whole image back over to the original and send it behind the original. Now adjust the stroke size to get the desired outline. You will also need to do some node editing to make the red fill the face but that's pretty quick and easy.
  7. darcshadow

    Ticking me off. Cutter Stops

    If you think the USB connector on the cutter is going bad, and you already have a Keyspan, why not just use it rather than go through the hassle of trying to replace the usb connector?
  8. darcshadow

    Can you use a USB extension cable with SignBlazer?

    Another option for long USB runs, there is a device that will convert USB to a cat-5/cat-6 cable and allow you to run nearly 200', then convert back from cat-5/cat-6 to standard USB. And if you need to go even further, you can get one that converts to fiber and run nearly 1500'.
  9. darcshadow

    ai file

    If you have Inkscape setup to open EPS files, you can try renaming them as an eps and then try opening them with Inkscape. It works quite often.
  10. darcshadow

    Glass etching

    One big complaint about the HF cabinet is that you have to assemble it which leaves lots of room for gaps and leaks. For a little bit more you can get a cabinet that is injection molded plastic which has no seams or places to leak outside of the holes that are suppose to be there. I have a Cyclone E500 it was about $75 more than the HF one, but I have been very pleased with it and didn't have to worry about trying to seal it up. As for compressors, both the ones you mentioned would work although the 3gallon is pretty small. For most blasting you'll be in the 40-60psi range. The larger the tank and higher the HP on the compressor you can get the better. Reason being, the larger the tank, the less often the compressor needs to run. The higher the HP, the faster the tank will fill. If the compressor can fill the tank faster than you drain it then you never need to stop. If the compressor is not fast enough, you'll need to take short breaks to let the tank fill back up. Not a big deal either as you are rarely blasting non stop. The other thing to note, the blasters all have a suggested or min. psi usage. That, for the most part, can be ignore. I believe mine says to run it at 100psi or something, but it works just fine as low as 25psi. The other thing you want to look at is a vacuum for the cabinet. Ideally a dust collection system with good filters, but a simple shop vac or household vac can be used to clear the dust in the cabinet. It can get dusty very quickly and be nearly impossible to see what you're working on.
  11. darcshadow

    Spy vs Spy

    You're basically wanting to do this. This is a simpler image but basically I duplicated the original, broke it apart and pulled out the silhouette, then expand it to slightly larger than the original and change it to white. Put it below the main image and above the black background.
  12. darcshadow

    Glass etching help

    The grit is mostly a matter of personal preference. The lower grit will give a more ruff etch look and the high grit will give more of a frost look. I like 120 as it give a good etch that has a bit of a "sparkle" to it. The higher grit will give you an etch closer to what the etching cream looked like, only better. A lot of people like the look of 180 as well. You'll just have to pick one and give it a try and go from there.
  13. darcshadow

    Slacking on the finished products

    Just a personal preference, I'd make the designs a little smaller so that they can be fully seen when views without the need to rotate the mug to see the whole design. Obviously some designs are intended to wrap around but The ROB for example, looks to big to me.
  14. darcshadow

    Glass etching help

    That is what I use with AO and have not had any problems. Black Diamond is a brand, are you referring to coal slag blast media? If so, that is most likely your problem, sand and coal slag both have a Mohs of about 6, which is about what glass is as well. To get a good etch you need to blast with something harder than what you are trying to etch. You should also try to avoid sand as it can be a serious heath risk if you do not have the proper respiratory equipment.
  15. darcshadow

    Glass etching help

    What are you using for a stencil, and what pressure are you running at?
  16. darcshadow

    Signblazer popup toolbar help

    I believe there is a setting someplace in windows that will force popups to open in the active window, but SB is so old, it still might not work. And I have no idea where that setting in windows might be. I only vaguely recall seeing it once years ago.
  17. darcshadow

    Glass etching help

    I like the results I get with 120 AO. Never found any at local stores but it can be found online at reasonable prices. Often times eBay is actually the cheapest.
  18. darcshadow

    SCALP4 Randomly cuts through design.

    If you believe that shuffle your feet around for awhile then touch the screw on your electrical cover. That zap you feel is the static charge being discharged from you to ground. Ground is the great equalizer, all electricity wants to go to it. The machine is grounded via the power plug and grounding the vinyl to any ground will eliminate any difference between the two. Now yes, technically if the vinyl is electrically connected to the chassis of the cutter and the cutter is not grounded static should not be an issue because the cutter and the vinyl will be at the same potential. But having electronics on a floating plane introduces a whole new range of possible problems and safety issues.
  19. darcshadow

    SCALP4 Randomly cuts through design.

    Just to be a stickler for details, the stand doesn't actually need to be grounded, it's the vinyl that generates the static and is what needs to be grounded. Typically the vinyl is sitting on the metal rollers that are part of the stand so ground the stand grounds the vinyl.
  20. darcshadow

    SCALP4 Randomly cuts through design.

    Try using some paper and the pen tool and see if it goes crazy. If not, then it's likely static, if it does, then you have another problem.
  21. darcshadow

    Size or Function

    I have not come across vinyl larger than 24" but under 28" so there is not much benefit in getting a 28" model vs. a 25".
  22. I know it takes away some of the fun and satisfaction of creating the product, but with a large enough order you might consider subbing out the job. A quick search on the net found a place that will do bulk order (12 or more) pricing of beer mugs for as little as $4.65 a glass. Don't know what shipping would be, but it might be worth looking into, if nothing else as a backup in case you can't fill an order fast enough.
  23. What were you trying, and what sort of problem were you having? This is a relative simple design that would not be too hard to redraw/trace by hand.
  24. darcshadow

    Best way to cut a roll of vinyl in half

    <p>I've cut a few rolls with a miter saw, now issues. just put some blue painters tape around the role where I was cutting. Trick is to not go too fast, or too slow. I don't recall what the tooth count of the blade I was using, but it was the standard blade I use for cutting wood, maybe a 60 tooth.</p> <p> </p> <p>The two problems the guy in the video above had, was he cut way slower than necessary, and didn't have a large enough saw to cut all the way through. Not being able to go all the way through isn't too big of a deal, but it does mean you'll have to rotate the roll and cut a second time and you will likely not get an exact match so the edge of the vinyl will not be perfect but it'll be good enough, you never use the very edge anyway.</p>
  25. darcshadow

    Disco Ball

    I'm not familiar with the software you are using, but there should be a wire frame view, or something similarly named. That view will show you exactly what the plotter will cut. You need to try and get your head away from designing in terms of lines, and think in terms of shapes and paths, that will help. When you draw a line with your program, you see the thick line you want, but the plotter only sees the single line. To get a thick line you need convert your thick line to a path as described by dc up above.