darcshadow

No, Sign Blazer was created before SVG was a thing. You'd have to save the file off as an EPS then import it to SB.

Does Signblazer have the driver, or just have it in a list. Drivers and cutting software are typically independent of each other. Your best bet is to contact Master and ask for the driver for your model. http://www.masterwarehouse.com/us/contact_us.html

The Aten usb to serial is a pretty good converter. I've used a few of them at work and never had issue. As Skeeter said, make sure you have the current/correct driver for Windows 10 installed.

+1 on Inkscape here. It's a very powerful FREE vector design program. I use it for pretty much everything I do.

Serial Ports have not changed since the 70's, maybe even further back than that. The adapter you have is what everyone here recommends. Don't know anything about Signcut M or a vinyl subscription, as Skeeter suggested, Signblazer works just fine or if you want something newer, Vinyl Master seems to work well with the MH series. What about the software you used in the past, it should still work as well. Seems like I do recall seeing once that it was possible to add memory to the MH, but I don't believe it is simple, or necessary. I have done some extremely complex designs with thousands of nodes and never had a memory problem. So long as the communications to the plotter are set correctly, the amount of memory shouldn't matter.

I'm not saying bad memory is the cause, just a possibility, throwing out ideas.

Yes, the pen would rule out static as the source of the problem so it's either comms, or the cutter itself. Could be a portion of the cutter's memory has gone bad maybe. I'd try different software next. I just had a problem over the weekend where different software fixed the problem. The big difference for me though is that my bad cuts were at the same point every time.

Do you have a pen attachment and if so have you tried using it? Does it do it on just a particular design, or is it all designs? Have you tried different software? There are several free trial programs out there, give one of them a try. If your PC is old enough to have a LPT port, I would guess it probably has a serial port as well, so no need for a Tripp-Lite. The serial port is a 9 pin D connector. Looks like the VGA connector, only less pins.

AUGGGHHHHHHH!!!!! This video has the horrible advise of a half credit card! USCutter, get rid of this video!!! An why tell the proper way to do it using vinyl then tell a way to do it using paper? Ok, now that that is over, Yes, that is a grounding wire, and what he showed doing is completely safe. the cutter is not plugged in at this point, so there is no power to spark to anything anyway. Once the cutter is plugged in, this is simply a ground wire, if there is ever a spark on a ground wire, something is very seriously wrong with either the machine or the wiring of the house/building. So other than the setting blade depth thing, what about the video is confusing?

What videos are you watching where they tell you to strip wires or drill holes? The cutter is good to go out of the box, the only assembly would be the stand and it's pretty straight forward, you don't really need instructions to do that. Doesn't matter what cutter you buy, if a stand is included, you're going to have to assemble it yourself. Now, the MH is the lowest of the low and does suffer from static electricity issues. The solution to this is to discharge the static from the vinyl to a ground point. The easiest way to accomplish this is to ground the stand which most people do by attaching a wire to the stand and to a ground point on the cutter.

Has anything changed since it last worked normal?

If it raises up then drops back down, I'm confused and at a loss as to what could be the problem. With vinyl loaded, is a design cut when you hit the test button? On my MH a star inside of a box is cut when I hit the test button.

It is an Adobe creation, proprietary, but publicly documented.

I know, just commenting that there are very few non proprietary file formats or open source file formats. Now there are industry standards, EPS being the big one, but even it is proprietary.

You should be able to import eps I would think. That's extremely hard to do, the only non proprietary vector format I know of is svg.

View your image in wire frame mode to see exactly what the cutter will do. I don't know of any good way to convert an object like that back to a single line. Only thing that comes to mind is node editing it to delete all the nodes on one side of the "line". Your other option would be to redraw it as a single line. Does raise the question as Haumana ask, what are you going to do with a single cut line like this?

Up while off, that's interesting. So to the OP, assuming yours should work the same as cardudenc's then I would say you have a weak spring, or the spring has become disconnected inside the carriage. It appears you have two screws holding the plastic cover on the carriage, You should be able to take the cover off and get a good look at what is going on inside and be able to tell if you have a spring problem or not. Note, when you take the cover off, the cutting head will not likely hit the red button and will continue to try and drive to the right, so if you turn the cutter on with the cover removed, put your finger over the red button and hit it before the cutter head moves too far right.

No I have not. Could try using a hand saw, maybe a coping saw. Or even just a large sharp knife.

If the roll is rolled tight enough, miter saw might work, or a band saw might work a bit better. The video of the guy setting the roll on fire is a possibility but only if you cut extremely slow like he was doing. No idea why he thought going that slow would be a good idea. I've done it and didn't have a problem. I put some blue painters tape around the roll where I was cutting and just cut it like cutting wood, maybe a touch slower, but not by much.

Does the cutter head move at all when you turn power on? If it's not moving up at all, you could have a bad Z-chip. Some machines they can be replaced easily, others require some soldering skill.

Yes, sort of, No. You can see through paper take well enough to line things up usually, color of vehicle and color of vinyl will have some effect. By over lap, do you mean use multiple piece of transfer tape to cover the decal? Yes, it can be done, but it should be avoided. Where the tape overlaps you are likely to get bubbles in the decal. Now if you have say two lines of text you can have the tape overlap in the black space between the letters, no problem. Shape and size of the mark is up to you, what ever works best for you. I typically use a diamond shape, just my personal preference.

But most people, with small decals, don't install with the backing paper. They will peal the backing off then position the decal to install.

Awfully nice of them not to charge for software that they are not giving you. I would guess some where in your software there is a scale setting that defines how many steps per in or mm. Find that and adjust as necessary, I would assume there would be a calibration option. But if not, draw a box of say 100mm square and cut it. Then measure it and determine how much you need to adjust the steps per mm number to get the correct size. You might also try the KNK forums, there seem to be quite a few actually, they can probably be of more help since they should be more familiar with this machine.

Little late to the party I realized. Is the PSD file suppose to be the same faces as in the logo image? Because when I open it, it is drastically different. In the PSD file I only see two colors, black and red and this can be quite easily vectored using VM. Import the image into VM, then select it and click on Images->Vectorize at the bottom of the new windows, on the left is a selection box that says colors, it will likely be 2, change it to 3 and you will see your preview image change to now include the red lips. hit Trace and you should be good.

Anyone know if anything was ever implemented in VM to stop the automatic backup?