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Everything posted by darcshadow

  1. darcshadow

    blasting media for etching glass etc

    Water, that's another thing to be sure to get, get a water separator for the hose and put it as near the blast cabinet as possible.
  2. darcshadow

    Doing some business pricing

    What are you putting in for quantity on the time entry? 1 minute would be 0.016 hours. What results do you get if you put in 40 for unit cost, and 0.016 for Quantity for Sign Preparation, Weeding, Application?
  3. darcshadow

    blasting media for etching glass etc

    Here's a link to the topic where I posted a photo of my setup. It might seem odd having the hand holes on two different sides but it worked out really well with the size of the tote and gave me good maneuverability.
  4. darcshadow

    From wall application to cars... what do I use?

    For simple decals, 651 will work, but 751 or 851 is usually recommended. Just depends on how long the decal is expected to last.
  5. darcshadow

    blasting media for etching glass etc

    I don't believe so, at least not easily. If you want to go the air eraser route, you can build a little blast using a plastic tote. That's what I did to start with. Worked ok for doing glasses but took forever, 15-20min, to do a single glass where as with the siphon gun in the cabinet I could do a glass in about a minute. I believe I posted photos of my setup on here someplace.
  6. darcshadow

    Doing some business pricing

    I have not used that tool, but judging from the screen I would guess you put in your hourly rate under unit cost, and then under quantity how many hours it took you for a single decal.
  7. darcshadow

    Go-C Graphics

    Those look great, but man are those stand off pricey. Another thing that might sell well, turn that design into a clock. Shouldn't be too hard to do.
  8. darcshadow

    Text on path just looks... off...

    If there is not an update that fixes it, and you don't want to spend any money, give Inkscape a try. It's not the greatest for working with text, but it does a pretty decent job and is great for vector design in general, and best of all, it's free.
  9. darcshadow

    Doing some business pricing

    For typical decals in that size range, the cost of the material is basically irrelevant, just a few pennies. The real cost is in your time and what do you pay yourself per hour. Start to finish how long does it take you to produce the 150 decals ready for deliver? Say 5 hours, at $40 per hour, that's $200, or $1.33 per decal.
  10. darcshadow

    blasting media for etching glass etc

    Most blast cabinets come with a siphon blaster, so no need for an air eraser, you'd quickly out grow it anyway. Bench cabinets are nice, but the one downfall they pretty much all have, is the sides of the bottom are not steep enough to get media to slide to the bottom where the siphon intake is located. They work well enough, but not as well as a self standing unit with steeper sides. And just a quick note on siphon blasters, do not bury the entire metal siphon under the media, the top of it should be up in open air. (took me awhile to figure that one out ) Personally I'd skip the HF unit. The problem with theirs and several others in the low price range is that it is put together with nuts and bolts and as a result has a lot of places for media to leak out. This can be fixed with sealant, but for just a bit more you can find a cabinet that is all one piece. Usually Rotomolded plastic. Nothertool has one for about $200. As for grit, that depends on the look you like. The higher/finer the grit, the more of a dusting effect the etch will have. The lower/course grit will give a courser surface. For glass I like something around 120 grit. They type of media also plays a factor, for glass Aluminum Oxide is pretty common. It's not too expensive, and lasts pretty long. Even with a blast cabinet you should still consider some sort of respirator or dust mask, no such thing as being too safe. Lastly, get as big of an air compressor as you can afford. Blasting uses quite a bit of air and a small compressor will be running constantly to keep the air supply going and as a result quickly burn itself out. I have a 10 gallon unit, it works well, but it does run a bit more often than I'd like. One thing that confused me in the beginning was looking at the require CFMs of a blaster vs the CFMs of a compressor. The two do not have to be matched up. Once the tank of the compressor is full, it will provide what ever the blaster needs, it'll only be restricted by the hoses and fittings. Where the CFM of the compressor comes into play is how long it will take to refill the tank. So if you compressor has a higher CFM, you can blast non stop. If your compressor has a lower CFM you will need to pause every now and then and give the compressor time to refill the tank. Also, the larger diameter hose you can get, the better. Larger diameters will allow higher CFM, should try to go 1/2" at the min.
  11. darcshadow

    Can I cut foam board

    I'm not sure exactly on the max thickness, but I know it's not much. Anything much thicker than about 2, maybe 3 layers of vinyl will be too thick to cut with a MH.
  12. Now that is a GREAT attitude to have!
  13. Might also try calling customer service again and talk to a different tech. Who ever it was you talked to that told you to kept extending the blade doesn't know how to do their job.
  14. darcshadow

    Vinyl for etching with mini sandblaster

    Same here, 651 or greenstar. Have also use 631, but it has to be a flat piece. 631 is really hard to get to lay flat and stick on a glass. Also agree with clhyer, you spend more time masking and un masking then you do blasting. One thing I've started doing, is to use a plastic cup to cover the the top and sometimes bottom of the glass I'm blasting. much easier and faster than trying to tape it all off.
  15. Or if you don't have AI, Inkscape is a free vector program. It's best to create designs in vector format to start with, you'll always produce a better result than if you trace something.
  16. darcshadow

    CNC update

    Is the Xbox controller part of the CNC, or just happened to be laying in the photo?
  17. I don't know how VinylMaster, but worse case, you cut what you have pictured above and just weed away the black part.
  18. USCutter sells a ground strap that hangs from the cutter and lays on the vinyl that would work for you here. You could also just make one, it's nothing more than a wire and some magnets to hold it in place. The key is to ground the vinyl, doesn't really matter if the stand is grounded or not, but with a metal stand it's easiest to ground the stand which then in turn grounds the vinyl that is sitting on it.
  19. darcshadow


    Does computer 1 have an actual serial port? And if so are you using a straight cable or a null modem cable? I don't remember for sure which the MH uses, I believe it uses a null modem cable.
  20. darcshadow

    Second Chance Automotive

    Love his logo, that is great! Nice work on the conversion to a solid color.
  21. darcshadow

    Optimal temperature range for cutting vinyl?

    There ya go, the temp is even colder than I thought. I don't even keep my house that cold in the summer time.
  22. darcshadow

    Optimal temperature range for cutting vinyl?

    I seem to recall reading that most vinyl the recommended temp. for storage was something like 65F-75F. Don't remember the exact number, I just remember that the upper temperature was much lower than I would have expected.
  23. darcshadow

    Outline width

    Size and shape of the design has a lot to do with it as well.
  24. darcshadow

    Vinyl won't stick to transfer tape...help please

    Have you tried laying the decal face down and pealing the backing away from the decal rather than pealing the decal away from the backing?
  25. darcshadow

    MH871 Not Closing Cut Lines

    Have you cut this design in the past? Or have you tried cutting an old design, just to verify that it is not an issue with the file? You said this just started happening, has anything changed recently?