darcshadow

Siser Brick is thick, although I don't think it's as thick what's in your photo https://www.uscutter.com/New-Siser-Brick-Heat-Transfer-Vinyl-20in-x-1-Foot

SVG is an image, it has to be processed and commands for the plotter generated, which are then sent to the plotter. What ever program came with your cutter handles that part. The program most likely can not "open" an SVG file, but it can probably import it. If not, check on EPS, nearly all vector programs can import EPS files.

Is it a large file that takes a long time to cut? Could be the computer is going to sleep or doing something weird. Also, are you using USB or serial?

I blast with aluminum oxide. It's a harder material and will last longer then glass bead or walnut. Take note though, it can damage thin pieces of metal. However, for cups you shouldn't have a problem. As for grit, that is personal preference really. The courser the grit the more "textured" the metal will be. I forget what I have but I think it's like 120. As for vinyl to use, I just use scrap Green Star or Oracle 651. So long as you're not trying to do fine detail work, generic vinyl has worked well enough. My problem is cutting through the powder coat can take awhile and I often blast through the vinyl. Granted this is self applied powder, seems like I recall stuff on the cups from the store was easier to cut through.

You'll need a null modem serial cable, other than that, and the software settings you should be good to go. No drivers needed.

Have you checked the fuse?

If I read right, you load the paper to read registration marks, then remove the paper and load vinyl? If that is what you’re doing I think you are confused about something and making the process harder than necessary. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? I mean don’t worry about trying to tell us how you’re doing it, tell use what the final project is?

I don’t know about speaker carpet, but normal carpet will melt pretty easily, made the mistake of trying to iron something on the floor once. since this is a fixed install, won’t be washed and wrinkled like normal clothes, you could probably het away with normal vinyl even.

The problem is most likely the Z-chip got fried and will need to be replaced. The early models of the MH the chip was in a socket and could easily be replaced. Newer models the chip is soldered in, still replaceable, just not as easy. The chip is a simple op-amp and can be found from several online electronic stores. Do a search on here for Z-chip, we just had this discussion about a week ago. You'll find all the details you need.

What is your actual cutter model? Look up the user manual, I would assume it would tell you how to connect the plotter via ethernet.

I don't think it's font specific but you can change the spacing between words. Click on the text button on then at the top you should see an Ab with a gear in front of them. Click that and you'll get a new window, the last item in the window adjust the spacing between words. You might also try using this font in a different program to see if it somehow a font issue.

It doesn't work that way for me using Vinyl Master and a MH cutter. The advance after plot doesn't reset the origin point and if I were to send another job the vinyl would back feed to the origin and cut over the design I just made. I have to hit the origin button after every cut. Also, I have not had to reset the cutter to clear the memory. It's not a bad step to do, I've just been lucky I guess and never had a problem with cutting multiple jobs in a row.

If this is a problem with the font and you use this font often you can get font glyph editing tools and modify the font to suit your desire. I think illustrator has tools to edit fonts or there are several stand alone programs.

They way they are running around that, and the sharp corners, that just looks like an accident waiting to happen. ha!

And here's the correct way to set blade depth,

From the manual it looks like the rollers just slide back and forth, which is what I would expect. I did see this in the manual,

I don't know anything about moving the pinch rollers on a Titan, but I do know you have WAY to much blade exposed. You shouldn't be able to see the blade in a photo like the one you posted.

No

I just checked, the photo on USCutter's page that shows the Z-Chip. In the photo it is a LM324N, I would assume the photo is an actual photo of the chip but I'd double check the numbers on the chip in your machine before doing anything. Assuming LM324N is correct, as I suspected it is a basic op amp and you can buy the chip for about 30 cents from various electronic supply shops. Shipping will be the highest cost unless you have a store local that carries misc. chips.

I believe it is a basic op-amp so if you look up the numbers on the chip you should be able to find it, or find one from a different manufacture that has the same electrical capabilities and pinout.

The older versions of the MH the z-chip is in a socket and can easily be replaced. The newer versions, it is soldered to the board, can still be replaced, but will require some soldering skills.

SB was abandoned over a decade ago (creator passed away). As I'm sure you're aware that time span in the tech world might as well be ancient history. I believe you can get the "hacked" version of SB running on windows 10 but I don't think it has all of the features unlocked. You're two options are to reformat the computer and put windows 7 or older on it, or give up on SB and get a modern program. And no, there is no way to do a batch convert of your SB files to something a different program can open.

The belt is not good, but I don't believe it would cause the cutting problem you are noticing. I'd also be concerned as to how the belt got that way. Once replaced I'd keep an eye on the new belt to make sure something is not rubbing it.

That cut looks better, but there's still issues. Your corners are not square and the triangle points are a little off as well. Cut looks kind of deep as well, but that's hard to judge from a photo. Do you have a pen attachment? what does the test cut look like with a pen?

When going from one program to another, I find it best to simplify the file as much as possible. Convert everything to just simple paths, weld everything and get the file as close to cut ready as possible. Then save it off as an eps file and import that into VM.