darcshadow

Signblazer works with the MH, that was the default program for the MH up until about 5 or 6 years ago.

I have a MH and it works, but it was a fight to get things dialed in to work well. It does teach you a lot about cutters but I, and everyone on here, try to steer people to at least the SC, better if you can afford it. I've not had an SC, but those on here that have had both the SC and the MH say there is a significant improvement of the SC over the MH.

Technically yes, but in reality, no. It's a vinyl cutter for cutting vinyl. Unless you are making stencils out of vinyl you're going to have to use a matt just like with the brother and it'll lose it's tackyness as well. I don't know the quality of the brother, but I can almost say for certain that the MH will be a step down, probably a big step. You might look at the cricut, it's a hobbyist cutter and advertised as being able to cut card stock and such. My sister has one and has not had any complaints about it, although she mostly uses it to cut vinyl.

You're offset is way off. Check the manual, but I believe I've seen posted on here that Graphtecs use a 0 setting for their offset.

agree, you're talking a good bit of extra work and wear/tear on the cutter and knife for no real value added.

except then you won't be able to see the decal very well. Decals are put on the outside of a window, tint is put on the inside.

What software do you have? Deleting the wife would be quite easy. (in the image that is, much harder to delete the actual wife. ha!) I would probably simply draw a shape to cover it then do a punch through command. If you let us know what software you have we can give better instructions. Another option would be to manually delete the nodes, very easy to do in most software. Also, it looks as if that image was traced, learning to redraw/manually trace it would be a good skill to have as well and can greatly improve image/cut quality

Heat press would be a great idea for a school. The students could make school shirts to sell and have the equipment pay for itself.

Do you have to buy it through US Cutter? I could piece together a "kit" and give you a quote for it. Then I'd place the order for the individual pieces and have it dropped ship straight to you. We have to do stuff like that at my job all the time for equipment. A manufacture will rarely agree to all our terms and conditions so we find a 3rd party that will and they just act as a middle man. Stupid really, but it makes the lawyers happy.

You're simply trying to do contour cutting. Google VM Contour cutting and you'll find several videos walking you through the process.

Yeah, I'd just ring the cable pins to make sure there isn't a open wire. Unlikely, but possible. Google the pinout for a null modem cable so you know which pins should ring. You could give the parallel port a try but not many on here have experience with using the parallel port and you'd pretty much be on your own.

I suppose it could be possible the cable or adapter got damaged in the move. Do you have a DMM? Could always ring out the cable to rule that out. There are several cutting programs that have demos you can give a try before spending any money. Does that cutter have a USB port? While the serial port is usually more reliable can't hurt to try the USB option.

Has the files that are failing ever worked?

When you say "Software wise its running Windows 7, CorelDraw alongside SignBlazer elements for cutting, connected via a USB to serial converter (again which they showed was in full working order)" Do you mean they used the same USB adapter and cable that you are using? Cause my first thought would be flaky USB adapter. Most on here recommend the Tripp-Lite Keyspan, it's known to work. Others are may or may not work. Second thought, is the serial cable. Serial cables come in two main varieties, straight and null-modem. You need the correct one, I believe that cutter uses the null-modem type of cable. But if you're using all the same hardware that was used to demo it for you I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work. You said you download SCAP for your Mac but couldn't find drivers for your cutter, why not try different software for the Windows computer? Although my guess is it's something simple that being overlooked and you'll kick yourself once you find it.

But has Windows updated recently? The driver is a windows thing and window updates often "break" things that use to work. Does printing work with other software?

A: it's not a printer B: It's advertised as not compatible with Mac. There are users on here that have gotten it to work using windows emulators but I don't believe anyone cuts directly from a max with the MH cutters. If you don't want to install a windows emulator, one thing you might try, use the serial connection. By using a serial connection there should be no need for a driver, just tell the software what comm port to use and the correct language, HP-GL.

https://uscutter.com/oracal-fluorescent/ Be aware though, fluorescent colors fade faster than other colors.

If you no longer have SCAL you are out of luck. When you say you copy them over, you're just moving them around on your hard drive, that doesn't change the file. SCAL uses a proprietary file format and no other programs I'm aware of can open it. It's too late, now, but moving forward you should always save/export your designs to a common file format such as EPS. PDF and SVG are other formats most programs can open as well.

How are the checkers made? Is the white spaces a void, or it a white box? If it's a white box that would explain the weld results you're getting. You want to weld only the blacks and probably punch through the whites.

How did you set the blade depth? If the blade is out too far it may still work if you're lucky but there's also a good chance you'll break the tip which could explain why it suddenly stopped working. Get a new blade and set it per Ms. Skeeters instructions.

It's a custom logo, an actual font probably doesn't exist. I looked for a while and was never able to find anything close enough and ended up just tracing it for my project. It's not hard to hand trace, pretty basic shapes and straight lines.

Microsoft does not support eps thumbnails and you need a third part to be able to have an image rather than a logo. I think I have SageThumbs installed on my computer but I can't remember for sure. There are several out there, just pick one and go with it.

Have you tried googling this? I I put in Graphtec Pro Studio Registration Marks and first thing is a video showing how to do it. From your description of your process you have everything you need, just watch the video and you should be good.

Figure out how much vinyl you'll be using, figure out how much that vinyl cost, figure out how much your time is worth and how long it'll take you. Add in some extra to cover application tape and wear and tear on your equipment, add all that up and you have your price

Sort of. The four that are messing up, where is the cutter head in relation to it's location for the 4 that worked. Are they being cut in the same spot on the cutter or are they different? Can you post a photo?