darcshadow

All three of those are good and it can't hurt to learn how to use different software but from what I understand AI and Corel do things very differently and if you learn one, picking the other up can be a challenge. I use Inkscape and for a free program, it's extremely powerful.

Turn your head. Top/Bottom/Left/Right, they are all relative. You just have to change the way you think of orientation. Most software has the option to rotate a design 90 when it's sent to the cutter, that might make it cut to the orientation you have in your head but in reality, as long as it fits on your vinyl it really doesn't matter.

If you push the test button on the cutter what happens? What software are you using? What OS, windows xp, 7, 8, 10, etc? Are you connected through USB or serial?

Are you using the USB connection or serial? If USB, try serial. Assuming the computer does not have a serial port you'll need a USB-2-serial adapter, get the one from Tripp-lite. You'll also need a null modem cable, one should have came with the cutter, if not they are pretty cheap. If you use the serial option, you won't need a driver for the cutter. However, given that the screen seems fried you may have multiple issues and the computer may not be the only problem.

And it still does this when using the test button on the cutter? It looks to me like a step count issue, but if it does it with the test button that would rule that problem out. Maybe a slipping belt or damaged teeth on the gear? Although that seems unlike as that would cause misaligned and other issues.

Anyone ever figure out how to do this? I have an image with multiple holes in it and I want to be able to select the nodes of all the holes at the same time but I can only select one hole at a time or the outline of the entire image.

Set the cutter to it's slowest setting, then once you get things cutting good you can step up the speed if you want although I've gotten to where I typically run mine pretty slow. I'm in no rush and would rather it cut good than fast. I also run only 60 degree blades. I know they say it's over kill for simple sign vinyl but the cost is minimal and it's just one less thing to mess with. The offset will vary from blade to blade. Typically blades from the same manufacturer and degree will have the same offset, but you'll want to pay attention when you change blades. The test cut from the control panel of the cutter is not affected by the offset in the software. You'll need to draw your own test image, a box works well, and do test cuts from the software. Once you get all that dialed in, if it's still not cutting the GreenStar stuff as well as you think it should, put some Oracal in and give it a try. You will be surprised how much nicer that stuff cuts. You may need to adjust your blade depth. The GreenStar is slightly thicker I've found.

A quick search finds that 100% cotton can be considered FR to a certain point and is acceptable for various electrical jobs. It seems to really depend on what the clothing is made out of, and how it is made.

As Slice said, the hold the shift key to select multiple objects although I find drawing a box is usually easier and faster. A couple of notes on your design. The red box extends down into the green. Ideally you don't want anything hidden on your screen because the cutter will cut the line, not what you see. You have a black background. The If white is your wall, then I the white boxes above and below the green I would remove, or punch them through the green and red so that the green and red boxes are the exact size you need. For the letters on the Red and green boxes, you have two options, you can punch them through like you're trying, or you can just leave the white text there and then when you send the image to the cutter, send both the box and the letters on the box. The cutter will then cut the box and the letters, effectively doing the punch out for you.

You also mentioned way too deep and you're playing with pressure. If you mean too deep as in it's cutting into the backing material then you have too much blade exposed and need to set the correct blade depth. Search for Mz. Skeeter's instructions on here. They have been posted hundreds of times.

I don't remember the screens off hand, will have to look when I get home. But when you send to cutter, there should be an option to change the width there as well, near yellow triangle. I also, don't think it really matters. The yellow icon is just a warning that your design is bigger than the currently set width. It'll still cut, I think.

Go to your vinyl Spooler, on the right side of the window click on Cut Options and you can set your media width there. I think you can do the same from the Send to Cutter screen but I can't confirm that right now. The computer I'm currently using doesn't have the software activated.

There is no material width setting on the cutter that I'm aware of, so I'm assuming you're talking about the software? If so, what software?

So with the pen in, and the cutter on, it's not touching the paper? Then when you hit test it drops the pen to draw but doesn't lift it when needed to do the design correctly? Once the design is done does the pen go back up to where it's not touching the paper anymore?

I don't think blade depth is the problem in this case if it is doing it with the pen attachment as well. When you put the pen attachment in, does the pen touch the paper when the machine is on and just sitting there?