darcshadow

Sublimation is going to be your best bet.

I agree with the others, go at least one step up from the MH. I have a MH and wish I has gone for something a bit better. The MH will get the job done, but it's a bit more work than it should be. As for the computer, if what ever cutter you get you connect to through the serial port the computer will be able to talk to it. No need for driver or anything of the sort. That being said, moving to a newer computer would be highly recommended. You should be able to still run Flexisign 5.5 on a new PC so you won't be learning a whole new system, just a new OS that is pretty straight forward for all the basic stuff. Windows updates only really get annoying when you start diving into the details and settings of things that a basic PC user would not be messing with anything.

Thanks, I could have sworn I tried that. Just tried it again and it worked, so I don't know what I was doing last time. It did do one thing I was not expecting, when I deleted the curve, it was replaced with a straight line joining the two nodes. So I selected that and deleted it and got to the results pictured above.

Thanks. I must have just over looked it.

I purchased a heat press that came was bundled with 5 colors of Premium HTV from UScutter. Any one know what the temp. should be for this vinyl? There was no paperwork for the vinyl. My guess is it would be pretty close to that of Siser Easyweed but figured I'd ask here before I started experimenting.

What do you mean didn't work? Setting the blade depth is only the first step. From there you then adjust speed and pressure. What exactly is it that is not working?

Just a guess but I'd go with the aluminium setting to start with and adjust from there. My guess is you'll need to increase the temp and time a little as aluminium will transfer heat faster than stainless steel.

Guessing she's referring to a cricut machine.

Already did that. can't edit the nodes till you convert to curves. I suspect this ability does not exist in the software. May take some time to get use to, but so far, I'm not a fan of the edit nodes capabilities. I like my nodes to be on the line in question. For curves, VM has them floating off at what would be the intersection of two lines. I can see how that could be handy at times, but they way I think of nodes and editing them it does not work for me.

You'll want to do an outline of the @ and use the outline to punch through. If you don't, there will not be a gap and it'll just look like the @ blends with the camera graphic.

I would also guess, what ever it is, it has been squashed and stretched.

Started playing around more with Vinyl Master and the node editing capabilities. One thing I could not figure out, or if it's even possible, was to delete a line segment between two nodes. For example, if I have a circle that is made up of 4 nodes, top, bottom, left and right. Is it possible to delete the segment between the Top and Right nodes so that I am left with a 3/4 circle line? The best I've been able to do so far is to delete the arc but have it replaced with a straight line connecting the nodes. I want the shape to be open, no longer a shape, just a simple line. In Inkscape, this ability it called "Delete Segment between two non-endpoints", is there something equivalent in Vinyl Master?

You can't cut a JPEG. You will need to vector it, although if it's just ruler markings and numbers it'd be easier to just remake it in your vector program. Once you have the design as a vector you can easily cut it up into smaller sections to fit your vinyl.

You're talking about print work there. Equipment to do that, and do it well is quite expensive, several thousand for the cheap stuff.

What are you cutting that is getting caught on anything? Once the vinyl is fed in there shouldn't be anything to snag on the cutter. The vinyl backing should be nice and smooth.