darcshadow

Can it be done, Yes. Can it be done quickly and easily, No. Signblazer can export designs as EPS files that you can then open in most other vector programs but there is no automated way of doing this. Personally what I would do is keep signblazer around and if I ever need an old design I'd then find it and convert it to EPS. I wouldn't spend time converting every old design that I most likely will never need again. As for the fonts, they can be copied over to the new computer. I believe you can just copy them to the windows font folder and you're golden, I don't think you have to install each one individually.

You can't. Those are basically two different measurements of the same thing. The A box is the typeface height, the T box is the height of the letter. Watch this video and it'll explain it. https://youtu.be/dxnzMTB7npw?t=480

Have never tried. Just cutting a simple square with a knife or scissors is what most people do I believe. You could try cutting a registration mark. I don't know exactly how the registration marks work but you might be able to cut a thin enough line the cutter would detect it.

Do you mean the box with the T next to it and a value of 4.925? The VM support guy just posted a thing about this the other day. That is the height of the capital H. Presumable all capital letters will be the same height but some fonts do do some fancy things that would go above or below the H. You can't have every single letter be the same height, unless the font is designed that way. Some fonts are, but several are not. I am curious now though, what is the box with the A next to it for?

I don't think they really mean start, but rather layout. The N will be cut where the B was cut with the old cutter. But yeah, you don't need to change your design, just the way you think of plotter orientation. You say it cuts right to left, but if you look at the cutter from the other side it's cutting left to right. If I'm reading correct, the bottom right corner will be the origin point on the cutter so that when the job is done you'd be able to read the words as the vinyl hangs from the cutter. I don't know your software, but most programs you can change the orientation so that it will plot like your old one if you can't wrap your head around the different orientation.

Yeah, if the on board test cut doesn't cut right something with the cutter itself is wrong and a replacement component will probably be needed.

Are you talking about contour cutting the transfer tape after you apply it?

What do you mean which one? The top is the width, the bottom is the height, that's what those arrows to the left indicate.

It appears that that cutter has an RS-232 serial interface and can be controlled with HPGL. So Inkscape could be used. I have not messed with many cutting software, but pretty much any of them should work if you can configure the protocol that they use to be HPGL.

With the belt removed do you still get a grinding noise? If not, then I would say you do not have a control or motor problem. My guess would be something is not aligned quite right and getting bound up. The grinding noise is the belt slipping at the motor. Is the machine new? If so call tech support and have them trouble shoot it for you.

Clip art is typically a vector already so you shouldn't need to vector it. Also are you actually printing or cutting? Big difference.

Are the circles objects or paths? If objects try converting them to a path then save the EPS.

Except the driver you need, is for the chip that is doing the comm connection inside the cutter. The USB connection on the cutter is nothing more than a cheap RS-232 converter. HGPL is just the language which is why I said if you can plug directly into the comm port on the cutter you should be able to make it work on a mac as you don't need a driver. No, but most do seem to be 1012 steps per inch. This value is determined by the type of stepper motor used. Driver has nothing to do with this value. Again, the driver is nothing more than a usb to rs-232 converter. The step count would be a setting in the software being used. Most cutting programs have a drop down list to select your cutter and have settings such as this preset just to make it easier for the user. Inkscape for example, at least the windows version, just has the settings, it doesn't care what model of cutter you have. You set the step count, the comm baud rate, and a few other things I can't recall right now and that's it.

Download and give Inkscape a try. You can use just about any measurement you like in it. Inches, mm, cm, pixels, pt, pc (not even sure what those last two are).

Lots of people use this logic but I never really understood it. If you have $10 cash in hand. Just put it in the bank, or a mason jar, and and don't touch it then spend $10 on your credit card. At the end of the month take the $10 out and pay the credit card. You're still spending the same amount of money. The only difference is you just keep track of what you spend vs what you make and don't spend more than you make. And if you get a good credit card you get cash back so using the credit card will actually save you money.