TheManThePete

Oh ok, so basically insert the spring loaded side in FIRST! That sounds much easier! hahaha.... The way I did it, is how someone with an Engineering degree or Aspergers would do it. Your way is the way I should have done it.

Hey guys, I have all the drivers and keyspan and all that good stuff setup like it says to in the sticky from Banner John, and just got my new machine fixed up, and blade dialed in. I just can't get my 1st decal to start cutting. I have a basic decal I'm using as a test imported from Illustrator, and can tell it to cut, but once that happens, nothing moves on the cutter. The Baud rate is matching on machine and in the program, I have the Keyspan hooked up, but don't see any sort of setup I can do in Network preferences, so I don't know if it's even communicating with the cutter/computer. The driver is downloaded, and there is a new pane for the Keyspan in Network preferences, but there doesn't seem to be any sort of settings that I can change there. Any help, anyone? So far you all have been extremely helpful, but I'm hitting a wall. Thanks!

I'd like to know how this thing works out, what model machine is this?

I couldn't find any answers, but here's how I fixed mine, in case anyone else is searching and finds this thread. Take the side access panel, the one that doesn't have the red button attached to the wall. Once that's off, you can access the belt tensioner, loosen the screw, to give slack in the belt. The belt with slip off, the shouldered posts, under the head. Now you can turn the head upside down and see the arm/spring that gives tension to the single roller. Now it should be apparent if you need to loosen the nut on the backside of the roller, so it can move. Now get small set of channel locks, and use the nut on the backside of the roller and pinch it to the long gold nut/tower that holds the head cover up, and you can get the roller to move down, and give you enough room to get it back on the track, before springing back into tention. Tighten the nut back up on the backside of the roller, slip your belt ends back onto their hidden posts (this is kinda tedious, a pair or 90* pliers worked great for me) then while holding tension, re-tighten the long nut on the belt tensioner, until it's back to the original tightness. Then just put your side cover back on, and you're good to go. You may have to lossen the top cover that has the control panel on it, to get more working room with the head. I did that step first while I was trying to figure out how I was gonna fix it, so I'm not 100% sure that you NEED it off, or that it just makes it easier to work in there. I hope this helps someone.

I tried forcing it with the mallet, and it wasn't even close to getting back on, so I had to disassemble the head a bit, to access the key to fixing it. Here's a quick How-to for anyone searching this topic, since I did that myself and found no real good answers. Take the side access panel, the one that doesn't have the red button attached to the wall. Once that's off, you can access the belt tensioner, loosen the screw, to give slack in the belt. The belt with slip off, the shouldered posts, under the head. Now you can turn the head upside down and see the arm/spring that gives tension to the single roller. Now it should be apparent if you need to loosen the nut on the backside of the roller, so it can move. Now get small set of channel locks, and use the nut on the backside of the roller and pinch it to the long gold nut/tower that holds the head cover up, and you can get the roller to move down, and give you enough room to get it back on the track, before springing back into tention. Tighten the nut back up on the backside of the roller, slip your belt ends back onto their hidden posts (this is kinda tedious, a pair or 90* pliers worked great for me) then while holding tension, re-tighten the long nut on the belt tensioner, until it's back to the original tightness. Then just put your side cover back on, and you're good to go. You may have to lossen the top cover that has the control panel on it, to get more working room with the head. I did that step first while I was trying to figure out how I was gonna fix it, so I'm not 100% sure that you NEED it off, or that it just makes it easier to work in there. I hope this helps someone.

Great, thanks! That's exactly what the previous owner said had happened.

Just as the title says. My MH365 has the head off the rails/track. It was like that when I got it, and I can't for the life of me get it back on. It just seems like it's too tight to get over the 2nd rail, once one side is in the right spot. I tried taking some exterior panels off, but that didn't help too much. I really don't want to take this whole thing apart just to get the head back in its proper place. After all, if it came out easily enough (perhaps in shipping) then it should go back in with some finesse. I just can't seem to figure out the trick. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Pics, if needed, just ask.

Hey everyone, I'm Pete from Nor-Cal near Sacramento. I just picked up a MH365 and am eager to start cutting some decals for my small business, and for fun with my friends. I got the whole MH365 starter kit from a buddy for some trade work, and I know nothing about it, so I'll probably be asking a lot of questions in the next few weeks, hahaha... Right now, I am working on getting the head back on the rails or tracks, so I can fire it up the unit for the first time. If anyone has any tips, I'd be greatly appreciative. Glad to be a part of the community.