slice&dice

In my experience, if the cuts are too deep into the backing paper, the vinyl decals get 'stuck' (sorta fused onto the backing layer). However, you say this is not happening, so there's something else going on here.

^^^^ Highly suggest you create your design and send it to a company like ZOO PRINTING that offers vehicle decals using specialized 3M vinyl material. http://www.zooprinting.com/products/vehicledecals

The SC801 is 34" --- (850mm) -- when ordering this item, I would suggest talking to a USCUTTER sales rep directly instead of going through the website, and making sure of getting the correct part -- the indication "Long" or "Short" is not enough specification, since there's also a 53" model. Also, notice the picture of that belt shown on the website does not have these metal 'tabs' on the ends. I sure as heck would not want to try and remove them from the existing (broken) belt and then somehow crimp them back onto a new belt. No siree bob!

APRIL51, good to know you've now become an on-the-fly CUTTER TECH and have gotten into the nitty-gritty of disassembling that thing! At some point, most of us have taken a screwdriver to our machines and worked on them, so there's that. Since you are from the "Show Me" state, it certainly would be worthwhile to make that video and post it here for future reference for others who may wish to see the process should their belts require replacing for whatever reason. Glad to have been of assistance. Namaste.

Hello April, welcome to this Forum. Your question is certainly unique, as I can't recall anyone here having to replace the belt. That being said, it shouldn't be too difficult on that SC unit, since access to the belt & carriage is fairly straightforward. First of all, remove the left-hand cover (where the power cord comes in) -- there's two Phillips screws (one front and one rear) and just pop the cover right off (bottom first, then top), and you'll see the tensioner for the belt. Do the same thing on the other side. That's where the drive motor is located. Those metal end clips/pins will attach onto posts on the back of the carriage itself, and you can access them by literally disengaging the carriage from the track (carefully jump the wheels off) -- best to remove the blade holder first before doing this.

Tools are important. Utility knife. Rulers and tape measure. Weed Pick. Masking tape. Scissors.

Go directly to Graphtec? Hmmmmmmm....

Cool. Y-W. Although we still are able to use that SBE (abandonware) program, the non-updating limitations require keeping it within the parameters of LEGACY computer software and hardware.

Well, that indeed seems to be an option to try ---- especially since you had no problems with an older version of Inkscape.

I must tell you, the thing you are seeking to accomplish is called "OFFSET" (where the black outline is separated slightly from the numbers). The alternative FREE/abandonware program SignBlazer handles this type of operation easily and effectively. (MANIPULATE menu)

It has been discussed here many times that SignBlazer will NOT import .eps files created with newer versions of Illustrator later than v.8 and what you are describing is exactly that -- you are creating a more recent version of .eps (from an updated Inkscape) that is not recognized by SBE. By the way, a PVW file is only for SBE to deal with internally. It cannot be opened by SBE, and is just used by the program when showing previews within the 'OPEN' dialogue window.

I would bet the CDM20828 standard driver is sufficient. http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Drivers/cdm20828_setup_windows.exe

Describe what result you're obtaining that isn't right.

So, you were able to get it working with SignBlazer, right?

Try fiddling around inside your windows Device Manager and adjust Port assignment manually (advanced properties)

I am not familiar with this feature in VM, but you can instantly download and install SignBlazer which offers an easy outline tool, and there is an Export as .eps function (File menu) or you can just cut from that program directly.

Anyone who needs to remove sticky residue should have a bottle of THIS --

Don't do it. For just $419 you'll be better off with the SC2 (24" with stand) and get a feel for a "real" cutter. The little Cameo3 is $249, and if you can't justify the extra $170. capital outlay for a BUSINESS, then you are not a business.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBOXQPcLoio 0:26 the narrator says "Don't leave it in direct sunlight, it turns the adhesive a little bit..." (meaning, makes it harder to remove cleanly)

SignBlazer contains these items for Karate.

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That's an easy thing to answer. Download and install SignBlazer. You can accomplish a lot with it. Don't forget to Mirror your cuts for HTV

Just return the thing.

Hey buddy, you can run that machine using (abandonware) SignBlazer and RedSail driver. Your computer and the cutter may just work with USB, ya neva know!

Time is money. Bill them.