slice&dice

rex, Two things -- 1. Uninstall your SBE and restart your computer. Download and run the v7.0.0 version HERE -- http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Software/SignBlazer/signblazer_setup.exe 2. Make sure you install the USB emulation driver http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Drivers/cdm20828_setup_windows.exe Let's see how that goes.

Mike, From what you're saying, the entire cutter mechanism is not rising and falling at all -- not even in test mode? That's a Z-axis failure, and requires a circuit replacement by the manufacturer, your machine is under warranty and that defective MB can be swapped by you (if that's what it turns out to be when you get ahold of a tech at USCUTTER and receive a return/repair authorization)

Make sure your cutting software setup is set for ORIGIN and not WYSIWYG. In VinylMaster, WYSIWYG is called Absolute (position) in the General tab, make sure that's not checked.

You should have gotten a grounding wire in your accessory box. I think it's green and yellow. Anyway, your cutter does NOT have a bad Z-Chip, Mike, because the electromagnet works on the cutter head and it goes up and down. What you really have to troubleshoot is why the blade tip doesn't actually reach the vinyl material. (see your other thread for advice on that).

Make sure the blade holder (round cartridge) is correctly positioned within the retainer arm. When I owned the MH, the cartridge would slip up slightly within that bracket, and I had to wrap a bit of tape around the cartridge itself to keep it from moving up. (You have to be VERY careful about tightening the knurled nut on that arm, it will crack the plastic.)

OK, now it seems that BKay is herself missing!

The Titan series machines have true USB circuitry, while the low grade models (MH) sold by USCutter have Serial circuitry with USB 'emulation' that is marginally stable. Also, the computers today are built without 'legacy' RS-232 port. Does your Win10 machine even have an RS-232 com?

Hey Timo, your potential customers in the USA would certainly like to see proper spelling and punctuation in English. Just a suggestion, please proofread your webpage and fix the errors (for instance, 'all' not 'al' , and the classic mistake 'peace of tape', among other problems that I noted immediately). Beyond that, your color selection is quite limited. You only offer 3 choices? (plus b/w) -- How about hand-turned Gold? or Ocean Blue? How about Beige? And it might be worthwhile to allow a choice of Boat Hull Color when designing the decal so the customer can play around with the background color and actually see on the screen what the end result will look like. Also, what's that strange pictogram symbol right above 'Apply Yourself'? Why are you charging prices in Europe using British Pounds? Why not the standard currency of the E-U, in Euros? € When using the Contact form, this bizarre message appears when the message is composed and sent - bedankt wij hebben u bericht ontvangen en zullen zo snel mogelijk reageren Do a quick Google search of "Boat Name Decals" and I think you will notice that you offer nothing different than the 1000's of others who do this (honestly, your website is more limited than most). https://www.yachtbritesigns.com/Boat-Lettering/Vinyl-Design-Area Hope this helps? Best wishes from Baltimore.

Probably just on yours.

I used the MH for years in a retail sign shop, it'll do the job. What is your #1 question about vinyl cutting? What is confusing to you? Lay it on us.

Sure, you can cut it, nothing unique about that product, it goes right through the machine just like regular vinyl or HTV. No, you don't require a 60* blade. I know that Flock Material and Reflective Vinyl require a 60 degree blade for smooth cutting. It won't hurt anything to use 813 vinyl with the 60* but you don't need to. As for pressure and speed, it doesn't seem like you have to make any special adjustments, but run a test and verify. And for the record, you are NOT going to be cutting all the way through the backing. Just cut the vinyl, peel away the graphic, and use app tape, basically the same as any other vinyl project. The thickness of the material (2 mil), is standard for the capabilities of a 45* blade.

Welcome from Baltimore.

You're welcome.

Putting up coroplast signs for towing information (private property, store parking lots, etc.) is not a good idea. They will suffer UV sun damage fairly quickly and become brittle & crack. The way to go here is aluminum, or at a minimum, maxMetal or diBond. (for the record, DOT requires that parking lot signs be made with a reflective surface – for any lot that is publically accessible.) https://www.myparkingsign.com/MPS/Custom-Tow-Away-Signs.aspx

Are you prepared to start disassembling your old cutter? Are you ready to throw parts at it? How much money will you lose by having that machine out of commission for a while? It's likely worthwhile to just order a new cutter and move on with your life. USCutter has SC and LP3 units for very attractive pricing, maybe consider that route and get back to production quickly?