slice&dice

Maybe choose your specific model P-Cut from this list found within Cutter Setup?

updated: Just came out of HomeDepot with a wooden dowel and two screw-eye hardware thingies. The 36" dowel fits through the opening of the stainless-steel 'hook-eye' (see image). This whole assembly goes into a 2x4 base wood, again, using ratchet c-clamps to affix onto table edge. The rolls of app tape work best when they have the plastic inserts (end-caps) with a center-hole. Some rolls of vinyl ship that way, I save 'em for uses such as this.

Cool, like the outlines. I read somewhere that serif fonts are easier to read than sans-serif. Oh, by the way, I also read somewhere on the internet that boxes of tissues left on the rear ledge like that when driving become very dangerous flying objects in a sudden emergency stop. I think the force can actually break the front window if it hits that! Why not vinyl decals & SIGNS? Do you avoid making signs? Just curious.

What do you mean, slice them? Just use a utility knife and a T-square. (Hint, to round off square corners, a nickel coin is good to trace with a knife)

This question reminds me of a particular episode of Marcus Limonis' program "The Profit" (long preview)

Cliff it.

No. The one thing you want to avoid doing is damaging the white nylon 'cutting strip' by having the blade run into it (gouge it) by going through the backing paper of the vinyl. Your boss needs to rethink her goals.

The link is available to those who are logged-in as members here. http://forum.uscutter.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=109994

Do you have a business nexus in that other state? If you don't, then no need to collect tax for those orders.

SignBlazer has that model within the cutter selection setup. (windows compatibility) http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Software/SignBlazer/signblazer_setup.exe

Paper tape, apply each layer on its' own. Use RapidTac2 app fluid (which also cleans the window prior to applying vinyl -- cars go through car washes that typically spray some clearcoat and wax stuff, that needs to be eliminated). Trying to get all three layers into one backing sheet is not easy. Try a test, you'll see.

Shalom, Avi. 1. Speed is just what it says -- the blade carriage moves quicker as the cutting process moves along at higher rate of speed. While the machine is doing cutting, you can just change this value in the middle of the cut and watch what happens. Force is DownForce, and the amount of this pressure is dependent on the material resistance. Some vinyls (like HTV) are thicker and require more effort (force) from the blade to cut. I think that most people use around 100, more or less. 2. "More down"? Hard to know what you intended by this, but the machine needs to be set up so the blade is barely exposed past the end of the barrel holder. Essentially, just the very minimal amount of blade tip is required to cut. 3. Object border --- what border? Show us an example of what you are trying to cut with 'thicker borders' and we can better evaluate this.

Mz Skeeter, that suggestion never was replied-to and confirmed if it works or not. Lots of people come in here, post, and disappear, without a reply as to what they discovered with our advice. Jocobipa might be an exception? Hmmmmmm....

Liyu for Seiki? I don't think so. Seiki is a strange beast, very proprietary. That dongle doesn't look broken, it just appears like the outer case is missing!

I don't know if this will work in VM, but in SignBlazer, all I have to do is create the white rectangle over the part to 'crop' and then Select All and "WELD" and that's it.