ThermoPuke

I have a PCUT 630 from probably 10 years ago. Is there any update or modification that can be made to get hardware offset? The design software I got for free then has shut down due to the owner dying and there is a bug with the software offsets that I submitted but the company shut down a couple months after. What options do I have that don't involve new sofware or a new cutter?

Trying to use Creation's Illustrator plugin but it is not even using the offset or overcut value. This plugin works great with exception to that. Could someone from US Cutter contact Creation to get them to fix it. Seems like a simple fix even though the software is beta. I'm using a PCut CTN630 Trying to find a free alternative to SignBlazer which handles illustrator eps very poorly. Sign Cut works great but is $360 and this free plugin works as good but the offset does not work :\ You'd think the manufacturer's software would be spot on but its another cheap thing from China, sigh... If only the pcut had a manual offset setting... http://www.pcut-cn.com/en/support/?type=57

Right now I am using a 45. I read the topic about whether to use a 45 or 60 and think I should probably use the 60. HOWEVER... I have found that chrome vinyl is horrible stuff to work with when cutting intricate designs because it tears so easily according to the pressure used. If I use too much pressure, the corners might tear, then stick and ruin the whole design. If I don't use enough pressure, it only scores the vinyl but doesn't cut it which ruins the whole design. The problem I am having is that the ammount of pressure required to cut the intricate design is sometimes causing small tears where the blade catches the material causing it to bunch up. It's exactly like a cardboard box getting snagged on a bolt sticking out of the floor when you're trying to move it. With this in mind, do you think the 60 degree blade will be ripping the material rather than cutting it? Should I consider a 30 degree blade instead because it might cut better with a shallower angle?

First off, I have my blade offset at .50 and I am using a 45 degree blade I think. My corners are square. The problem I am having is the program starting the cut on the inside of my shapes. For example: I am cutting out a thin outline shape that is about 3mm thick. When the blade comes to position and starts the cut, it starts inside of where the outline is supposed to be and then goes out to where it is supposed to cut. On the inside of the outline, it does the oposite. When I weed it, the outline now has a pit where the blade started cutting on the outside and a little jaggie where it started to cut on the inside. Also, when I am cutting little shapes, it starts the cut on the inside corner of the square, goes around and finishes the cut. The end result is a near cut-off of one of the corners of the square. If I'm not careful, it gets ripped off. It happens to about 20% of the shapes in a whole project. Here's a little exagerated picture I drew of what happens: Is there any way to fix this?

Well... as unbelievable as it sounds, the founder of Sign Blazer Elements died and the company died with him. So the issue will never get resolved. I tried SignCut x2. One word: HORRIBLE The cuts never lined up and the design looked funky, almost as if I had the speed turned up to 80 trying to cut a small design. The only other option I can see is Flexi, but I don't want to spend $100 just to find out it's as bad as SignCut. I also noticed my cutter walks a little after I cut a 15"x22" square recently. The cut was off by almost 1mm. I guess you get what you paid for. Not that bad of a cutter though for the price. I just wish I could find software that cuts accurately. I'm looking at getting a Roland ColorCamm PC-600 to do stickers. Should work much better using CorelDraw.

I actually solved the issue but forgot to update. Turns out the blade was dull enough to make a difference when cutting chrome. I used a new blade from the 3pk and all my problems went away :mystical music: Chrome is a beast to work with, especially for small decal designs. Should cooperate better with larger designs.

Yeah, I dono. When I cut it before, I had found the sweet spot, but it was with a "newer" blade a few months ago. I'm still using the same blade and have cut maybe 100 small designs since then, plus one 2'x6' banner. I know the blade is turning. I'm thinking maybe my cutting program might be to blame since I found out it does not plot blade offsets for about 5% of the corners. And those corners vary according to orientation and how many you cut at the same time. STUPID SIGN BLAZER! Another issue might be the actual vinyl since it does not seem to want to stick to the liner as well as standard vinyl. I love Oracal's vinyl, but their chrome needs some work. I actually have a simmilar problem with Avery's vinyl, A6 I believe, which I got as a free sample. It stretches a lot and the more pressure I use, the more plucked corners and holes I get. What programs do you people use??? I bought a decal from someone on ebay and it does not have the same style of cutting as my cutter and program. I wish there was a better free program I could use!

I sent a bug report to Sign Blazer a few months ago. About couple weeks after I sent it, they responded that the demo file could not be accessed (I forgot to put it on my server). So... I know they at least got the message. It has been a month or two since I got that message, fixed the problem, and told them the file was now available. So... am still wondering if they are trying to fix the issue. I got so annoyed I actually made manual offsets in my design to fix some of the problems. If I tell it to cut say 20 of the design, it sometimes plots the offset for the manual offset so I have to cut it off with a knife which isn't a big deal. But each new design needs to be adjusted which is a big deal. Has anyone else noticed the problem with smaller designs?

1. Go to your root installation folder and find the file signblaz.ini 2. Make a copy of signblaz.ini and rename it signblaz.old 3. Open signblaz.ini in notepad 4. Scroll down about halfway untill you see the entry: [trace]. All settings for vectorization are in the block of entries below [trace] 5. Play around with the settings and thresholds untill you get the vectorization configuration you like. After each change, save the file then go to signblazer and run the vectorization. You do not need to restart SignBlazer every time you make a change. HAVE FUN

There should be a way. I'm sure someone with programming skills could make one. I'm trying to figure out what the Cutting Master 2 pluin does.

I think I found the answer to my problem with the edges being cut off. It isn't the cutter's fault. It's the stupid SignBlazer program. I looked more closely at the lines the program plots when it sends the job to the cutter. On most of the edges that are being cut off, the program is not creating a blade offset path for the corner.

Was this from a refine or pcut?

The top photo is the vinyl cut The bottom photo is the paper & pen plot Do you think it might be the initial rotation of the blade at the start of the cut? The problem areas are different if I change the orientation of the item being cut. Would using a 60 degree blade help since there should be less blade offset?

They are complete like I drew, most of the time. http://nwnode.com/pcutproblem3.JPG[/img]

I have a pcut ctn630 I tried .25 but I get rounded corners and that issue is still present.

I was wondering if anyone has any experience getting TradeMark and Copyright reproduction authorizations. My goal is to start a business selling large decals for computer cases. I want to be able to sell logos from the major hardware companies like Intel, nVIDIA, AMD, ATI, etc. I have contacted Intel, nVIDIA, and BFG via email, but no one has responded at all and it has been a week! I thought at least BFG would reply since I sent the message through the "General Inquiry Form". Do you think these companies would allow me to sell decals of their logos? It's like free advertising! Opinions???

Terry, how did you contact Blizard to get a response? Right now I don't even have a cutter. I just paid for one and will be picking it up today from USCutter. I just have no idea what I should be proposing: a paid royalty partnership, independent (do my own thing), or ask them to make decals for me so the designs are regulated? Do I submit samples and hope I don't get canned for copyright infringement, or just ask for permission to duplicate the logo?

I told nvidia last year that many people would buy their logo to put on their cases, but I have yet to see it in their store. It's a cheap way for them to make extra bucks. So it's like: If you're not going to do it, at least let me make some money doing it! I guess I'll have to escalate and actually call them. At least my Aunt works at Intel in Oregon, so I might be able to get somewhere there. To me this is silly waiting weeks for a single reply. Say "YES", "NO", or aknowledge the email. It's very simple!

Hi all, I would like to know what vinyl I should use for laptop lids. I am expecting extreme abrasion and rubbing actions. Also, the decals I want to use are going to have small independent bits and thin lines: the Stargate Atlantis laptop logo. I don't want it to be permanent because people might want to take it off, but I want it to last a while. No glossy, metalic, or transparent vinyls please. Whatever vinyl it is, it needs to stand up to edge peeling. I'm thinking some sort of very thin vinyl. Any suggestions?

Oh, you mean this post! I thought you were talking about the other post! Yeah 2 people on ebay are selling those decals like hot cakes. I bought 3. The first one is starting to peel a little at one of the letters because it ends in a 5 degree point and seems to be 3 mil vinyl. I considered using a clear over it, but it would take away from the authentic value.

Just curious, where did you get a sample of 36" I want one

DK. I'm pretty new to signs like a week old; but I did come across a supplier that has most brands and types of vinyl. What they don't carry they can order, so I'd give them a try: http://www.rjsign.com Each type for each brand usually has a color chart link too. These are the only ones I found on their site with a quick look: Universal Products Reflective (CHEAP QUALITY :-) carries a few colors black, blue, gold, green, lt blue, red, white, yellow, special order drk red, special order orange 3M Scotchlite Plus 680 (7mil wow) 12 colors Probably order via phone only Supposed to be permanent for 7 years Avery A7 Reflective - 16 colors 7year 30"x50' $800 Avery A3 Reflective - Special Order 3year Avery A3 Reflective 911 (ENHANCED VISIBILITY "911") - 4 colors 3year very expensive 30"x50' $1,600 I think this one has reflector crystals in the vinyl or something. If you don't see anything you like, I would ask them about other brands' reflective vinyl. It seems like they are the go-to guys for any type of vinyl you can think of. I hope this helps.

I found another product that's not as fascinating, but looks pretty cool for those of you who do any vinyl printing. The product is called Per'f-alite and is made by LaserVisions. Check it out: http://www.electricvinyl.com/shop/com_retro_reflect_01.php A basic 36" x 25' kit will cost you around $1,000 and doesn't include the print job. If you want a hanging picture, it'll cost you about $250 and up which includes 1 print job. But I do have to agree, that LumaMedia stuff is awesome! BTW... That's not street legal now is it?