MavistaGlass

I need a 2' x 8' printed banner, with grommets. I have the artwork. Would prefer to purchase it from someone here if anyone is interested in quoting it. Thanks!

Following an ugly computer crash, I installed my PCut on a new computer running Windows 7. Had a couple minor issues the first day using the cutter on the new system, but nothing major. When trying to cut an image today, though, I get an error message stating: "Cannot open output device. Error initializing cutter" I assume this is a connectivity issue, but am unable to find where the problem lies. In reading through the forum in an attempt to resolve the issue I came across the suggestion to run in XP mode and have tried that. Have also checked the cable - had to go from the serial cable I was using on the prior system to using a usb one on this one, but connections seem to be okay. Any suggestions?

Depends on what substrate you are blasting on and how deep you wish to blast, but most sign vinyl will work for basic sandblasting. Some basic points to keep in mind are to start with a clean substrate, both vinyl and substrate should be at room temperature, keep nozzle 3 - 4 inches from vinyl, do not stay in one spot long enough to allow heat to build up (desired depth should be achieved with several passes over the blast area), blast at a 90 degree angle to keep from lifting the stencil edge and if using a pressure pot about 30 psi. There are definite advantages to using sandblast vinyl for many projects, but for the basics sign vinyl will do just fine.

I haven't used my PCut cutter for a few weeks and when attempting to cut with it tonight, am receiving an error message that says: Cannot open the output device. Error initializing cutter. Help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Before removing your resist just spray it lightly with Krylon clear

The 220 grit will cut through just fine.

Just sent you a pm.

There are some other ways of cutting stencils that might be more appropriate for what you're wanting to do than using a vinyl cutter. Totally unrelated to the forum here since it does not involve vinyl, but feel free to pm me for details.

Another thing to note is that not all glassware is created equal....... if you are careful in which stemware you purchase, you can definitely make this work. Some stemware has straighter sides than others. Something else that sometimes helps is to make a small cut from the outer edge of the vinyl towards the design in order to get it to contour to the curve. Be sure not to cut too far, and to cover the cut with masking tape once your vinyl is adhered to the glassware, or you'll end up blasting any exposed area of the cut as well as your design.

No space cut options selected. Okay, the interesting thing here is that it seems to have to do with the width that I am selecting. When I choose a work area size of 20 Height & 60 Length and size the design accordingly, everything is okay..... if I extend the length beyond 60 and resize the design to fit this is when I run into the problem. I've done a number of banners in the past without running into this problem.

Help! I'm having issues when importing artwork into Sign Blazer. I've been using a Creation PCut for several months now with artwork designed in Corel Draw X3 with no problems until the last few days. Now when I import artwork into Sign Blazer to cut it, there are lines through the design, everything is a jumble. Don't really know how to explain it better. This does not happen every time. I've tried recreating the text, saving it with a different name, etc, but no luck. I have a banner (text only) that I need to cut asap but keep having this problem occur. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

Another strange thing is that a file that worked just fine yesterday, is a jumbled mess today. I have not installed any new software, made any changes to the pc etc except to reboot it this morning.

Yes. Not having any trouble getting it to import.....it is just a jumbled mess once it does. Following exactly the same procedure each time, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Have tried rebooting, recreating the file, etc with no luck.

My dogs and I compete in agility and obedience trials when we have spare time and $$ to do so.

Contact paper is also more difficult to remove from the glass at times. Tends to leave adhesive residue behind if you leave it on the glass very long after blasting. Also difficult to carve very deep with contact paper. Much better off to use paint mask for surface etching and something like the buttercut for deep carving.

I'm going. I try to take in one of the NBM shows each year whenever possible. Good place to see new items, ask questions and sometimes pick up a good deal. This will be the first year that I really had much interest in the sign part of the show though.

Okay..... I don't generally do signs. I use my cutter for stencils for glass etching, but am not working at present, and could definitely use the income that could be generated from doing a few signs. I have a customer interested in a 3 x 4 ft one-side, simple, two color design, with the artwork provided in vector format. The sign will hang from beneath an existing sign, against a building. I'm thinking of using as exterior grade substrate (Nudo White Wood Board) 1/2 in thick and capping the edges. What kind of price would you guys charge for something like this? Thanks in advance for any advice/suggestions.

Does anyone have a good source for metal street sign blanks?

This is a great set of vector art! I highly recommend it...... and have found it to pay for itself quickly! I find that I tend to use more designs from book #1, than from the others, but all have been a wonderful resource.

For sandblasting a surface etch on glass, you can get by with using most any vinyl. The secret there is not to linger in one spot too long and let heat build up on the surface of the vinyl. Much better to make a couple extra passes than to spend too much time in one spot. For deep or stage carving, obviously you're better off using a thicker vinyl or rubber resist. I used my PCut to cut some really thick rubber resist a few days ago, and was very pleased with the results. Still beating myself up for waiting so long to buy a cutter! The thing has saved me MANY hours in my sandblasting. As for grit size...... the finer grit gives a nicer result in my opinion. For glassware and giftware, I prefer a 180 grit silicon carbide.

Getting old beats the heck out of the alternative!

I agree Joe. I belong to several other forums and only one of them even begins to compare with this one when it comes to friendliness, information and the willingness to help someone out. I don't post all that often hear, but read the forum a couple times a day, and when I have posted, I've always received quick and friendly responses.

The product that I think you are referring to is called Rub N Buff. It is used quite frequently for carved glass projects. Not sure how well it will do if your etching is very shallow. You'd probably be best off to airbrush a shallow etching. I've been etching (and stone/tile/rock/mirror/etc) for quite a few years and would be glad to try and answer any questions that I can. Feel free to pm me.

Great job!

Nice work!