Wildgoose

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Posts posted by Wildgoose


  1. There is a comparison chart for VM. https://www.uscutter.com/static/PDFs/VinylMaster_Comparison.pdf

    Can you export a file in a universal format like EPS or SVG from your old software? If so you can open that up and cut it in the cut version. Not sure if the silhouette studio exports at all or outside of it's native proprietary file format.  You can see in the chart what formats VM will import. 


  2. I don't think stray nodes would cause the second copy to suddenly be turned 90deg and have all that gibberish. I lean toward the memory being overloaded or perhaps static. If you can cut one just fine but two is a problem than it's probably your machine limitations. 

    To be sure your file is ok turn the view to outline and select the whole thing and see if you can see any weird parts light up (indicating a stray node) or hidden layer that doesn't have any fill colors assigned. You can also usually see each item in the layer stack over on the side and select each item by clicking the little round button in it's layer and see what lights up. This is a pretty basic design so there should not be too many items over there. If some of them are in groups tool them open and be sure there aren't hidden items stuck in a group. I think you will see them just from going into wire frame but sometimes not. 

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  3. I can't remember what terms VM uses to discuss these kinds of things. The ball in question is either a 1 or 2 color object. If 2 color and the white is layered on top of a black circle then ungroup it and just use the white. If its a single color object and what appears white is actually a hole in the black circle it is a compound shape and you can usually release it which will make it a 2 layer object. 

    Sometimes if I am unsure if something is layered or a compound (hole or "knock-out") I will create a new object and change the color and drop it down so it is on a lower layer than the object in question and drag it in behind the object to see if I can see the color show up behind it. When dealing with black and white on a white screen it can get confusing. 

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  4. I was typing the same thing when Dakota beat me to it. There is some erroneous instructions that are floating around to use half a credit card depth. That's literally about 10 times too much. Even the cheap vinyl is usually only 3 mil thick which is very nearly the same as a human hair. Too much blade out causes a surprising amount of problems and is by far the number one set up error of new users. When set correctly and cutting though the vinyl with just enough force to scratch the liner lightly you should be able to see just a touch of light between the bottom of the blade holder and the vinyl if you get down at eye level while it is cutting. 

    If after correctly getting dialed in there is a setting in your software called "Overcut" which will drag the knife a little farther past the end of the start point. Most cutters do not need overcut if set up correctly. IF you DO use it don't get too carried away, a little bit will do it. You are basically compensating for the castor action on the blade tip so your overcut in theory should not need to ever be more than the blade offset value you used to get good square corners. 

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  5. 10 hours ago, mactube said:

    Yes, On ORIGIN I move the blade to the corner of the vinyl ( that's who I also use to do it) but then when the cutter starts cutting, it will not start cutting where it supposed to start. 

    Once you move the blade around you typically see the X & Y values change as you move. You need to zero that back out once you get it to the start point that you want it to be. Otherwise it still has the other origin point set and will start from the old one. I don't know your cutter to know how to reset the zero point but it will be there somewhere. 


  6. Another nice trick for applying application tape to your prepared graphics is to do the upside down method. Meaning that once you have cut and weeded your vinyl you roll some app tape out with the sticky side up and then gently lay the vinyl down into it face first so to speak. You typically bend or hang the vinyl in a U shape so that the center touches the sticky app tape first and ease it into it applying pressure with a squeegee to the back side of your vinyl. I tend to keep hold of one side of the vinyl and squeegee the other down before letting the other half down. Works great for small(ish) stuff up to about 36 inches if you have app tape wide enough to have some leeway in case your aim is off a little. 

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  7. 10 hours ago, bobbybuick said:

    agreed but sometimes i might want a 4x6 or so .

    I do the same with HTV. It's extra expensive and often used for small LC work. I keep a bin that I throw all my scraps into and regularly dig in there for pieces when I need a one-off. I also agree with darcshadow that most of those can be cut just fine by adjusting the pinch rollers and not messing with the cutting mat. The mat's are rather stiff and cause about as much problems as they cure. I have a couple and use them once in a while to cut things like stencils or perhaps a piece of paper but a couple payers of app tape on the back of the vinyl will do just as well for most regular sized things. 


  8. 19 minutes ago, bobbybuick said:

    question can you buy a carrier sheet for a cameo or cricut to cut the scraps .i find the cutting small pieces for a name or arm tag on a tee it would be helpfull.

    If so do you have to change the depth or pressure settings or will the machine compensate for the extra thickness 

    thanks Bob

    Your pressure is your pressure. If it was right when you cut the original it will still be correct. Speed may need to be a little slower if you were cutting at high speeds simply because there is a lot more mass/weight flopping around. 


  9. I like the space saving ideas. 

    You might consider keeping your good rolls of vinyl in plastic wraps so they don't dry out as fast. If you burn through them fast it won't matter but if you are like me and have rolls sitting for extended time it definitely helps the lifespan. HTV is less touchy that way but App tape is way way more likely to dry out and be ruined. 

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  10. When needed I use the AT65 like you have. Clear is just not that great even though some customers seem to prefer it. I usually just tell them that I'll do it but that I highly recommend a quality paper app tape so they know I didn't recommend it in the first place. I do the recommending in an email or something written that can be sent to them to remind them later because some seem to forget what you told them. 

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  11. I think you can laser cut them. Probably need a high end laser to do that but I'm pretty sure that's one way that the cool looking fridge magnets get cut. A die cut machine could stamp them out too I would imagine. If they need to be contoured to the design it gets into part of the industry where the big dogs with deep pockets have a corner on the market. 

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  12. Have you heard of a bread making machine? You add the ingredients and it stirs it up and lets it rise then in the end bakes a little loaf of bread? What you are attempting is sort of like taking a bread machine and adding the ingredients for cinnamon rolls and and expecting it to come out correctly. 

    Be a good idea to take some time and do some research about contour cuts and cutters that have optical eye's vs those that don't. It CAN be done sort of but not without some education and practice and a whole lot of patience. 

    It IS possible to align a basic cutter to registration marks manually but it will always be less accurate. Your workflow will be something like this: #1 design the graphic, #2 add a contour line around the perimeter and registration marks, #3 print a test print, #3.1 calibrate your printer to your design software or verify the scale, #5 Print the project (or a test job) #6 load your print design into the cutter software (usually without the actual graphic, you only need the contour line and the registration marks from #2) #7 align your cutter to the registration marks (see individual cutting software for specifics), #8 attempt the cut (and hope your cutter is also in calibration with the design program.) 


  13. Wet app will probably make a mess. If you were more experienced it would be different. Check out the The Parchment Trick which is sort of like using a light board to align a stack of layers or to install multiple layers in place. 

    Another cool option is to get your hands on a nice sized piece of Gerber/3M 225 premium cast vinyl and use the clear silicon backing instead of the parchment paper for even clearer see through. I buy some of this 225 for a couple specific clients from my local sign supply house so I save all my backing for just this type of thing. If you have a lot of these to do it might be worth buying some just for the liner. I use mine up first because it's pretty expensive and the cuts do not make any issue with later transfers. Be sure the slick side it placed to the next layer because the backside is not going to release. I also use that stuff to make an occasionally light weight stencil by placing about 3 layers of regular app tape on the back as a make shift carrier and then cutting out the stencil. 


  14. The fact that basically everyone who has responded has asked about the blade exposed should tell you how critical AND USUALLY OVERLOOKED BY NEW USERS that part of cutting is. I know it doesn't seem like it would make all that much difference but we assure you it really does. Often improperly set blade depth (we are talking about how much is sticking out of the holder) has caused poor cutting and broken blade tips which hinder getting ANY of the other setting dialed in. Start there and then move to blade offset and cutting downforce and speed. Most newer users find issues they have all relate back to machine set-up and it all starts with the blade depth. 

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  15. I suggest that you officially join the forum. As a guest we have to approve each post. 
     

    Inkscape is a totally free vector design program and a great place to start. There are tutorials in the help section. You’ll have to spend some time learning but it’s fun time once you get started. There are several vector programs a put there but Inkscape is the best free one. 

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  16. Probably but be sure and cover any exposed area that the carrier on the HTV doesn't cover so that it doesn't stick to your platen. Also it could have adhesion problems on the laser part so I suggest a test tee and wear and wash it a while to see how it reacts. 


  17. Inkjet is what they call a transfer and yes it prints on a solid piece. You CAN contour around the outside and inside of open spaces although you'll probably want a cutter with optical eye to be precise enough to do a clean job. I can't remember what cutter you are running. I have experience with this type of transfer and can tell you that the "hand" (feel) of the transfer is sucky on every one I have ever found. They also don't have a very long lifespan even with pigment based inks. But it IS as option that works on dark shirts. If you happen to be printing on white cotton or blends Jet Pro Soft Stretch usually shortened to JPSS is really good and has a light hand. It is just some sort of polymer that you print in mirror. Trim around the edges and apply according to the directions and they look great on white. As long as you don't leave straight edges to your trim job you can't really see where the polymer is on a pure white tee and people DO tend to wear white cotton at least a LITTLE more agreeably than the sublimation polyester. 

    A further complication with the transfer for dark option is most cutters with an optical eye require the registration alignment marks to be outside the design with a margin of clearance. This means your available design space is limited. You can combat this by getting a larger format printer that will print on an 11x17 but you definitely burn up excess transfer space. A comparison with the JPSS you can squeeze all sorts of prints on the page and just leave the smallest of margins and trim around them with an exacto in a few seconds and get a lot more prints per page. 

    In short the inkjet option is ok (just ok) for occasional darks and wonderful and inexpensive for white shirts. I recommend using a pigment based printer though because the regular dye based inks will wash out or fade much faster. If you have designs that are solid colors and do not need to be actual printed then HTV is far far superior for longevity, appearance and hand. I do a LOT of apparel and most of it I use HTV or pre-built plastisol transfers. If you have volume enough you can buy prebuilt transfers in full color and they work fine. Also not a great hand but at least you don't have to invest in a special printer and can spend you time just pressing them on. Might be a viable option for you. IF it's just one here and there then that doesn't pencil out. 

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