Wildgoose

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Posts posted by Wildgoose


  1. Yeah Brick comes in a few different thicknesses. USCutter used to sell it in the 1000 but I think they just sell 600 now. You can still buy the 1000 direct from Siser (or you could last time I checked). I have a few feet of it in both thicknesses I bought to play around with.  It is stiff though and hard to get the heat to the adhesive properly. Stahls is making a new heated lower platen than would do better than a standard press.  What that picture shows is probably silicon custom built. It's think and more pliable. I have not seen it for sale as a cut-able product but someone may know more. 


  2. Siser SAYS it can be applied with a hand iron, at least the regular non stretch version. If you it's in a non wear location you might get it to stay. You wouldn't be out much. I would never recommend using Siser on any garment with a hand iron regardless of what they say though. 

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  3. 13 minutes ago, jmas said:

    Does that work with raleway? It uses oldstyle numerals which are supposed to be different sizes. If you resize them to be the same size won't it make their thickness different?

     

    raleway.png.d2030499081970e4bd21bb58246a14b5.png

    Ok, BESIDES totally goofy fonts like that it works fine. Leave it to you bozo's to make fun of the moderators. LOL

    I do a LOT of sports jerseys and they have specific specs on minimum number heights etc so I use this method to be sure I get them right. In fact I usually slightly oversize them to account for shrinkage in case they get checked at the event. You would be surprised how technical some of the tournaments get and if you get a coach who really knows his stuff I have seen teams get disqualified for out of tolerance jerseys and forfeit a game.

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  4. If you are trying to get text at a specific size I make a rectangle the height I want my text and then set my text on too of that the figure out how many points it needs to be. Fonts can be very different depending on how they were made and 100pt in one font does not end up the same in others. 

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  5. 1 hour ago, Charlotte Lala said:

    I am looking for some colored magnets that are 30MIL. I do not see any that USCutter offers. Do any of you have any recommendations for good quality but still at a good price?

    Thanks,

    I don't know that I have ever seen colored magnet. It's always white and you have to do a layer of vinyl for the background color. (unless you are printing). They have several offerings of 30mil magnetic on the site. 

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  6. A lot of time they talk about printing outside the contour line which should be a different line in your design. You can set that line wherever you want I believe. If your wanting the end product to be precise then you would in fact add a little to the outermost printed areas of the logo so that when contoured it is correct. I have not tried to contour with VM so the specific how-to is not in my knowledge bank but either way like you mentioned or adding print outside the contour line should get you where you want to be. 


  7. What you are wanting to do is sometimes refered to as Flex cut that none of the budget cutters will be capable of. Flex cutting is basically cutting through the vinyl and at specific intervals increasing the force to also penetrate the carrier but leaving sufficient attached portions so as to not loose the integrity of the carrier. After the cut then you can push the flexcut peices on out. If you cut it all the way out you would lose the strength of the carrier sheet and all heck would break loose. If you ran a second carrier sheet under the actual vinyl carrier backing you could perhaps do an initial cut and then a second time through the machine as a contour cut but you would have to manually adjust the cutt force and possibly make a blade exposed adjustment. In general if you want to do what you are talking about you would end up into a much more expensive machine. 

    Overall, this type of thing is mostly only used for printed peel and stick "stickers" because of the need for a tranfer paper on cut vinyl decals. Applying app tape to loose decals might prove problematic and at the very least will waste as much time trying to make hthem look god as any other way. Most of us just set the spacing parameter of multiple copies such that you can cut, weed and place the app tape then trim the individual peices in a reasonable consistent squares by hand. 

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  8. On 1/7/2021 at 7:39 AM, TDoc said:

     

    Ok...so if I were to get an editing software to make the outlines of the trees and such.  What would you recommend?  Or should we upgrade our version of Vinyl Cutter?  I was thought that Vinyl Cutter program did it all.  But I'm starting to see that I should have a decent editing software as well? Vinyl Cutter is more for the cuts themselves.  My goal with this damn tree thing is just to have a nice outline around it cut.  Just to give it a break from the flag.  The thought seemed so simple.  Hahaha

    Start with Inkscape. It's free. Once you get your feet under you you can make more educated choices. Vinyl Master has several levels of ability and the Cut Level version is mostly a cutter interface to communicate with the cutter, the next step up Letter Level is more advanced and has more sign builders tools. There is a comparison chart on their website.  If you stay with them (great choice if you are a windows computer user) I would suggest the Pro Level if you don't expect to need the printing options in the Expert Level. 

    I am a mac user and have experience with Adobe so I stick with that but it's expensive and a major learning curve to figure it out. I use a different cutter utility that is mac compatible to actually cut. Mac's are great for graphics but they are picky what they will run and I don't get into the parallels or loading a windows OS into mine. For me the point was to evade the windows instability. 

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  9. 20 minutes ago, TDoc said:

    Ok.  I appreciate your help guys!  Is there anywhere you recommend I can read up to learn how to do this.  I'm getting really frustrated with this project tonight.  I was sent a new PDF of the same image that gave the trees an outline but it came with a whole different set of issues.  I'm feeling quite overwhelmed and like I bit off more than I can chew. 

    Patience. The graphics side of things can be daunting at first but once you get it figured out it isn't that hard. It's more learning to grasp the basic process and then learning your specific programs tool set and how they function. There is something called a wire frame view which is just the lines and curves that constitute a "vector" design. That is all your cutter sees. You are basically manipulating lines and curves. The objects have colors assigned to them that you can see in normal view mode and the cutter interface within your VinylMaster program segregate those lines that are assigned various colors into groups so as you load your vinyl you choose the color and it cuts those lines. On a single color project like you are attempting you utilize the garment (or substrate) as one of the colors by removing parts of the solid objects to create a hole, often called "knocking out" and you typically use another object to perform this operation. The tree for instance to knock out it's shape from the flag. You can also just create an outline to show separation from the tree and the flag and leave both. Many options. Vinyl master has tutorials and there are other programs that also do this vector design work (some are free open source programs like Inkscape). Just know that it will take some time to master these tools but if you are patient and studious you will look back later and wonder why it seemed so overwhelming. I use a different program (Adobe Illustrator) and can tell you from my limited exposure to Vinyl Master that it is a very well through out program and you will figure it out pretty quickly. Some "tools" may not be available in the version you own. Inkscape for many is a free alternative to do the work and then just cut it out in VM Cut. I am not able to offer very specific help to you but other may. Good luck and don't give up!

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  10. darcshadow is exactly correct. If you are doing multi colors it's usually a good idea to build the color layers with a little overlap but not a full stack. That may not make total sense until you do a few. Additionally, HTV will do all sorts of shrinking and moving when unde the heat and so gettting everything aligned perfect can be troubling. There are tricks of the trade. For instance I do a lot of 2 color team jersey numbers with a base color (inside) and an outer outline color.  If you just stack them like you would sign vinyl with the outline color first and the inside color on top you get a think feeling and the back layer usually shrinks (or rather, the garment shrinks) and throws the registration off so that the outline is not uniform all the way around the edges. To fix this you build the inside layer a bit wider than it needs to be (typically exteded to about half way into the width of the outline) and lay it down first then your outline is cut as just an outline and placed over the top. The oversized inside (bottom) layer edges are covered up with a little bit of overlap and the resulting outline is perfectly proportioned and the total package is one single layer making it feel better on the shirt. This process is relatively easy on a set of numbers and more complicated on other graphics. Some small detial pieces it is no feasible to do and unneccessary. It takes some experience to know when to do what. The big factor is these options will take some graphic skills on the design side to get where you need to be. 

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  11. I use SignCut PRO 1 (the older version) but the basics are the same. You just need to adjust your thinking a bit. The program will only cut 1 design at a time so you create a single design from multiple objects. Sounds like you have it now. You CAN cut multiple COPIES of a file if you are making more than one. Also if you are careful you can cut off the excess and use the scrap piece to make other designs later. No need to waste it if you have a big enough left over to use for something else. Use the "weeding frame" and you can usually see where the edge of your cut was and just trim the extra off before weeding.  

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  12. Glitter = Unhappiness. Hate that stuff LOL. Just a word of caution, the first time I cut glitter I tried to ease into the cut like you would with regular vinyl, adding a little pressure and then a little more. At some point in that process the glitter literally sanded off the tip (too small to see without a very powerful magnifier) and it was not cutting due to that. When I finally figured it out I put a fresh blade in and then I cut clear through into my cutting strip so that wasn't good.  Fresh blade, educated guess on pressure and cross your fingers. Then WRITE IT DOWN on some tape and tape up your roll with that so you can avoid the escapade the next time. Be prepared for it to mess up a blade too, it probably will. 

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  13. 9 hours ago, Hogie said:

    Ive got a sub, strange that you have the entire list and I have a very small list. I received a reply from signcut but this has really stumped me, a bit too technical tbh.

    Screen Shot 2020-12-31 at 10.52.27.png

    To tell the truth I just use an older windows laptop to cut from (window 7). My cutter (Summa) hooks up just fine on the Mac but if I am running the cutter then I am not able to do other things while it's working so I set my cutter across the room and use the laptop and just cut from thumb drive files (save in AI 8 it will open them perfectly). It's been an efficient system and the old laptops are extremely affordable. 

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  14. IMO if you are doing advanced work like that (using barcodes and all) you should be running a name brand machine. The titan 3 is a fine blend of affordable servo motors at low pricing but you have to remember that all the components are made in China and are basically a knock off of the real deal. Summa, Roland, Graphtec are a few of the top rated contour cutters and there really is a reason why they cost more; software and quality of objective lenses would be a huge one. If you do mostly basic cutting without the optical eye I think they have good results but using them in a commercial level print and cut situation is probably a stretch as you have found. I have always heard the Roland cutters do really good reading contour marks and the Summa cutters are industry leaders in the contour cutting market. I have heard the Graphtec cutters sometimes struggle reading laminated marks but have never owned one. Not what you want to hear but I don't think pulling punches helps anyone in the long run.


  15. What design program are you using? The basics are there in that file, you'll just have to build the outer gold ribbon pieces that they don't have included. Looking at the pic the ones on the old vehicle are not all that well done anyhow so I doubt you'll make them any worse. I noticed that the lower brown stripe is not quite aligned equally between the yellow stripes. I ungrouped the elements an then did a distribution center between those three peices and the brown now looks much better in relation to the end of the other piece that it is supped to be a part of. There are several weird alignment issues as well. 

    Time to learn your software.

    I had a few minutes so I fixed this one, hopefully it will help you out. 

     

    Ambulance Vinyl.eps

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  16. HT55 is specially formulated to work good with 631. It is actually a medium tack but with more adhesive to allow it to soak down into the mat finish and grab hold. Medium tack so it will come off decently after the install. 

     

    Unfortunately HT55 dries out if you own it too long (mine did) and it then loses its abilities somewhat. I wish they sold it in smaller roll lengths. 


  17. Just looking at what you showed as your offset and overcut numbers. The 0.25mm offset is likely very close but as mentioned often needs a minor tweak but your overcut of 2 mm is probably more than you need. If you have a decent magnifying glass take a look and see if the start and stop points on a circle stop at about the same place or if they go past each other. Typically the overcut feature is not needed but if your cuts do not start and stop in the same spot you use that to help it. Most times it is somewhere in the same neighborhood as the blade offset. I don't think too much overcut will hurt anything but it may leave little tags of vinyl if the cuts at the start and end do not line up perfectly. 

    If you are trying to determine the perfect blade offset with perfect corners you will want to use a small box (like a half inch or an inch) and cut it and look at the corners, Then change the offset a little and cut again until you can find th sweet spot between rounding off the corners and leaving weird spikes at the corners. Here is a little chart that may help you visualize it.

    offsetpic.gif

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