Wildgoose
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Posts posted by Wildgoose
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Thats pretty good doug!
Sluggo - the servo motors are much more accurate but I don't know if it's worth it just for that?
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The HTV cost isn't an issue on that small of item but the weed on the starts and stripes would be time consuming. I think I work too cheap but even I wouldn't touch that for $1. Maybe if he was a major client and this was a promotional good buddy type thing then you could at least justify the investment of time. You will be lucky to get 6 shirts an hour done. I would say if it has to be HTV then probably 3 base color and at least a dollar per each color on top so $5 minimum. If you could do the transfer you could get like 10 per sheet of paper and easy to cut out nice and square and maybe then for a buck or two.
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Jiffy is real fast as the name implies. I can usually save a little money by using SanMar though but you have to have a resellers license to get an account with them.
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The text and the shape of the text are irrelevant unless used by a trademarked business or organization such as the "Mountain Dew" looking text etc... Like Banner John mentioned, if you have legitimately designed the elk or bought the correct usage license for it then you are good to go.
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If you get a pigment printer, spring for the large format. That's the one regret I have had. I bought an epson WF30 and can only do 8.5x11 sized stuff. I have gotten creative and can do multiple sheets at a time with the JPSS pretty good with some practice but really wish I could print on 11x17 but then my press would be pushing it at 15"x15" ...oh man it just keeps snowballing doesn't it!.
Jet Pro Soft Stretch is the bomb for white shirts. Really awesome product. I have not been sold on the opaque (for dark shirts) transfers, of any brand. They feel like crap in my opinion. I very recently purchased a sample pack of Jetwear Dark IYA brand that I think used to be called Iron-all and it is a little better but still not as soft as I was hoping.
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If you look at it and think it resembles a JD logo then you are bumping up against copyright and trademark laws that have the potential to land you in a lawsuit. There are people who copy stuff all the time and seem to get away with it but IMO it's not worth the risk. In a lot of ways it depends on the application. I have a "Hardly (not Harley) Davidson" logo that I built to poke fun at a home built bobber bike I built a few years back, I still wear it on my own clothes but I don't sell it 'cause I want to keep my house.
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I have heard the Copam is actually a pretty good cutter. I don't want to steer you away from a graphtec though. The difference is in the motors and the higher end cutters are real nice. On your budget be aware that there are other expenses that will be involved too like app tape and some tools but I would not recommend going and buying a whole bunch of vinyl right off the bat which is what I did. You will be fine to buy some white and black but for colors I would order per the job. You probably should consider an affordable heat press too. You will have the ability to cut Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) and can garner a lot of work from that side of things, more than you'd think.
I started with a P-Cut which is several steps off the bottom but also several below the Copam I think. I used it for 2-1/2 years and built my business up and then upgraded. I can't tell you how nice it is to have a quality cutter so looking back I wish I would have just bought it right up front, I just didn't know if the whole thing would be a lark or a money maker. I pretty much guaranty you can do enough to pay off a quality cutter fairly easily even if the business never gets all that big so if you have the coin up front for a good cutter then maybe go that route. Size, I wouldn't worry about getting anything bigger than a 30inch and you can actually do just fine with a 24" machine and tile the bigger stuff. Tiling is also much more spot on with the higher quality cutter so the size is less of a concern. My P-Cut was 48in and I never cut anything above 30" so when I upgraded I went down to a 30" machine. I actually went to a Summa but they are a lot more money than you'll be able to snag a graphtec for. I might have wnet to a 24" machine but the Summa only goes down to 30" as their small cutter. I just decided if I was going to upgrade I wanted to go with the best knowing that it will probably be my last purchase unless I get crazy and go huge with a printer etc and at that point I'll have a whole bunch more decisions to make.
I work road construction by day so I know where you are coming from on that end. There is great money in vinyl. I just do it as a side thing for extra cash, I have too many kids! Some day I hope to retire into just doing this.
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There is a guy in y town that does nothing, NOTHING himself, just a major salesman and subs out everything to others and I think he does pretty good. I think you should be upfront with them but if you tell them that SOMEONE is going to be doing this for you and it might as well be them then if they are smart they can cut you a decent price and gain that much more business volume.
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You will have to collect sales tax on any mark-up plus the cost of the product like normal. You would be basically buying the item from...Say "Joe's Shirt shop" rather than Jiffy or Sanmar or whomever you would normally use and they are going to come already done with the graphics.
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What her is saying is go find a local shop and start up a relationship where hopefully they will give you a decent price break so you can have them build the products for you and then you give them to your client. That way YOU are the one dealing with the other shop and handling the problems if they arise and your client hopefully won't even know the difference. I don't think most people even care all that much as long as they are dealing with you whom they trust, I don't do digital and when I get a request I tell them I have to sub that part out and they don't seem to mind.
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I know I'm late on this but there are inks for printing DTG to Nylon etc. However I do believe you cant use it in the same machine your using the cotton ink in.Whats another $20k for a second printer...pocket change. LOL
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That JPSS is real tough too, I have a couple test shirts that I lost counting on a year ago and still doing great. I read somewhere that you can take Hydrogen peroxide and remove the burnt look? can't remember and I am pretty sure it was on the edges not on the actual transfer but you might try it.
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I got my sample pack of the Jetwear dark IYA brand opaque transfers. I did one last night and was hoping for better than it feels. I think I'm asking too much out of an inkjet product. It still feels pasty although noticeably less than the other brands I have so it's probably my new favorite for darks. I put a lot of dark ink on it and will wear and wash a while and see how it holds up.
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I'm not sure how much you have messed with these things so here is a version without the gradients to worry about. Depending on what cutting program you are using it may have just ignored the gradients anyway but you never know and it would definitely get confused in the cut by color pallet. There were several other little issues with non-welded paths etc that I fixed while I was in there. Welcome to the forum!
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You won't have any problem with that one at all. There are some gradients in there that you will have to take care of but what little overlaps on that won't even be noticed.
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Awesome! Fader I was hoping to find that one particularly!
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Thanks guys, Never have enough sports ideas
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You can layer it up just fine. If you have a lot of coverage it can start to feel "heavy" or thick but easyweed is thinner than a lot other brands so even layered it works. Post a pic of the design and we can give you a more informed opinion.
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I'm not a techie but I'm pretty sure you have to aim it at the right port which will have changed. GL
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Nice work and welcome to the forum.
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I have a friend here in Idaho that collects arcade and pinball machines. Has quite a collection at his place. Good old atari, fond memories.
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I bet every single one of us has done that at least once. I have done it many times. You should be able to save all kinds of scraps on the HTV. I save anything that is big enough to cut and you will be surprised how many little misc names and numbers you can find a use for it. It's a good idea to pick up a quality infrared temperature gauge or I've heard of someone closing the pres with a meat cooking thermometer in there to double check your heat settings. The digital presses are notorious for being off. Mine is somewhere between C and F in la la land. I just use the gun to check and now I know where it needs to be.
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Hello from Idaho.
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Sorry to hear that one of your shirts failed after heat application. I believe that the adhesive did not melt on the shirt where the lettering fell off. Polyester or polyester meshes are the biggest challenge with coatings that cause adhesion challenges. A 50/50 or 100% cotton are normally the easiest substrates to apply a heat transfer vinyl to. Liquid fabric softener can dissolve the adhesive on some of the vinyls causing the material to lift or fall off when laundering. You are more than welcome to call me direct for more assistance if you would like. Kathleen Servais, Siser North America 440-665-5576.Cool to see a rep on the forum! If you aren't already aware, most of us are HUGE fans of the SIser product line.
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Cutting small files
in General discussion
Posted
I took a shot at it but that stuff is pretty small and most of the stuff that is outside the panels just comes up with the weed. One of these was on a scrap of greenstar and the lower boxes with the cirlcles came up wit the weed, pretty well got the two dashboards or whatever these things are. THe second one was some ORacal 751 and it did better on the lower squares but weeding them without picking the whole thing off the carrier was tough. The right dash I tried to weed with a pair of tweezers and you can see the result with the dash setting up above. It got stuck on the tweezer and wouldn't come off. I would hate to have to do these on a regular bases. My eyes aren't good enough to even see some of the smaller holes so I quit trying to stab them and took a pic. If you were doing a one off for a special model and had the patience to cut a dozen of these and keep trying I think you could get all the elements but my experience with tiny stuff is you had better cut extra and plan on cannibalizing a few to get all the pieces.