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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. You can do it two ways. You do the work as normal in Illustrator and then there is a button to "Send to SignCut" and it will take over from there. I don't actually do it this way because it will also then be the main thing going on so I typically just save the file off as an "Illustrator version 8" and pull it off on a thumb drive and go use a laptop to cut so my main workstation isn't tied up while cutting. My laptop is a windows 7 computer. If it blue screens and causes issues (eye roll, why would I ever expect THAT to happen?) I roll the cutter across the room and cut from my iMac as back-up. SignCut likes version 8 of Illustrator the best. It will convert whatever file version you are working in for you if using the plug-in but in talking to the techies at SignCut they said version 8 is the best and is what it converts to when you send it to the cutter. SignCut is a working stand alone program as well so doing it my way is about as efficient as any other than down-saving the file. I do most 100% HTV work so when I down-save I also mirror the work so I don't forget to do it later and it's a nice workflow that has served me well. I keep the original working file in CS5 (my main version) for edits and continued client relations so I end up with two files for each job. I add an 8 behind the filename so I now it's version 8 even though you can see it from the thumbnail view.
  2. I used to try and size per shirt when using HTV but as my order sizes grew the complexity got to be too much. I now do one size for adults and then a smaller size for kids if needed. I typically take the smallest shirt and squeeze the largest size that I can get away with on it and use it on all the larger size. I HAVE offered a multi sized option a couple times when I first started worrying about this and both said all the same was fine. Now I am willing if the customer brings it up but I don't even bring it up on my end. Like you most of my sizes are around 10" standard width and 11 or 12 for a large look. The vertical size effects the width IMO. I had a guy who wanted a 11" wide one-off logo done on a hoodie. HAD to be 11 inches so i did it. It was 13" tall and almost touched the neck and pocket and he said afterword he wished he would have stuck with the 9 or 10 width I had suggested. I have gotten to the point with LC logo's that I print out about 3 sizes on paper and cut them out and see which one looks best before I commit. Usually around 4" but have some that look better a little wider and some a little smaller.
  3. Wildgoose

    I need help!!!

    What computer are you running on? Mac or Windows? Most who run the Sure Cuts a Lot do so as a way to run on mac. It's an option for both but not all that much awesome news comes from the SCAL program. Some on the forum have figured it out pretty good and make it sing but most of us go a different route. It was originally built on an existing platform for small craft cutters. Craft Edge does do some tech support too. If you bought direct from them they should offer some help.
  4. IMO go the SignCut route. ESPECIALLY if you are already an AI user. They have a plug-in and work great on the mac. Best part is they ALSO work on a pc so you can migrate between them if you need to. If you pay monthly you have 5 moves before they make you check in but if you buy the lifetime dongle you can load SignCut on all your computers and your neighbors your mother-in laws and cut from any one of them with the dongle. I am an AI guy and use the dongle on the original SignCut Pro1.
  5. Heat transfer will trick you too. It's carrier is really tough and hardly ever possible to cut through so you get all set or so you think then switch over to adhesive vinyl and wham. Start on adhesive vinyl, follow the instructions on the blade depth, it makes so much difference yet no one believes it for some reason. Once you get set for adhesive the heat transfer is basically the same I rarely need to adjust if cutting Siser. Some other brands are thicker and require more blade and a touch more down force but not much. A good quality blade like the Clean Cut blades are very helpful. They are much harder steel and are able to be sharpened well beyond the cheap ones and if you don't abuse them by cutting though the backing they will last 6 months or a year. I usually change them out after about 6-8 months and save the old ones for things I know will be hard on blades like glitter HTV.
  6. Wildgoose

    Automatic Sheet Cutting

    I don't know about a vertical split but there are definitely print/cut options that will cross cut with a separate blade. I couldn't get the HP video to run but I think they probably have the drop blade that will cut across. One of the Summa's will do that too I believe. There is no way around some hand work through because you still have to weed them and I bet you'll have enough waste that it might pay off better to hand cut line haumana suggests. Unless you are cranking out a LOT of sheets you can cut them down pretty quickly and they will weed better before you cut them all apart I would think. Most of the high production shops print on one machine and move them to a plotter to contour cut. Just my $0.02, but this just one man's opinion, your mileage may vary.
  7. Wildgoose

    Can I use L3

    There are some demonstration and training videos out there. It's always a good idea to do as much research as possible before deciding what you want. Just remember that contour cutting involves printing.
  8. Wildgoose


    Here is a screen shot after fixing the perspective. You won't likely find the font for the CHIEF, it's probably custom or so old they didn't have computers back then. You can hand trace this out and get good results. Very few auto trace result look good enough on fonts.
  9. Wildgoose

    Vinyl master DSR won't read cutter

    Did you buy it used? Most new machine purchases come with a RIP so you can print. There are a LOT of things that are not immediately apparent when stepping into the commercial print world.
  10. Wildgoose

    Different blades(scoring?) for GCC Sable?

    I have used clear application tape as a backing for some small projects at home where I needed to cut paper, even paper app tape should work maybe do two layers. I have a cricuit cutting mat too and I know hat you mean about them being so sticky they cause problems. Scoring blade - no idea other than sanding a tip off a cheap blade maybe?
  11. Wildgoose

    Help with CE-Lite 50

    YES that was it!
  12. Wildgoose

    Help with CE-Lite 50

    Has it been laminated? I have heard that sometimes the Graphtec machines have trouble recognizing the marks if there has been a lamination layer added. I can't recall the work-around but it was a concern I had when I was searching for a servo cutter.
  13. What software are you using to send to the cutter? It is not uncommon to have setup issues when connecting the first time. Most of the budget cutters have cheap usb chips and can be trouble. If that machine has a serial cable option you might have a better experience going that route. Some of the older ones did but most of the newer machines do not have that serial cable option. If you have strange things happening within a cut file you may have the wrong driver. If it just twigs out after running for a while it can be static. The budget model cutters don't like static and the back and forth movement of the vinyl dragging over the cutter can build up a strong charge. Not something I ever had that caused letters to flip though. Usually just stopped cutting.
  14. Could be a bad cable or connection port
  15. Wildgoose

    Faux Leather

    Sorry Kim, Not made to cut textiles, especially leather. You do win the award for interesting attempts though. If you just gotta abuse your machine be sure to try a cutting mat like the Circuit machines use.
  16. On a risk assessment basis you would definitely want to have boiler plate in place to protect you should you mess up someones paint. Even if you don't hurt it sometimes old vinyl will leave a ghost image where the adhesive was that will never go away and there are people out there who would blame the removal guy. If I have a removal for someone I am worried about, and to be honest I almost don't work for anyone that I have any kind of worry, I send them to a body shop to have the removal done.
  17. Wildgoose

    Certain letters don't get cut

    I think you probably need to do a little more pre-cut preparations. Looking at your file all the script letters are overlapped and not welded together so they will cut into one another. If you are unfamiliar with AI the process would be to select any live text and expand it and then while still selected use the "Unite" option in the Pathfinder menu to weld them all together. If you needed to do any special kerning or moving of individual letters that would want to be done before the "Unite" (weld) operation. That process may have zero to do with your current issue. Other than the need to weld the file seemed ok when I opened it up. I would also maybe consider saving it off to AI version 8 which is an older legacy file format that is usually better for file transfer. There are lots of things in the newer versions of Illustrator that cause file conversion problems with simple cut files.
  18. Wildgoose

    Floor Graphics

    I did a large logo in reverse that a client used as a stencil and stained a floor with it and then pulled up the vinyl.
  19. Wildgoose

    I didn't do it

    That's awesome!
  20. Wildgoose

    Need a font suggestion

    It's called Run! Demo. I think you can probably get it to work. https://www.dafont.com/search.php?q=Run! Demo&text=THE
  21. I have been asked by several forum members to make a video showing how to use parchment paper to layer vinyl. Hope this will clear up questions of what I have been talking about. In the video I use clear app tape. This works great with paper taper too although not quite as easy to see through. I use this a lot for second layer effects that I want perfect. Link:
  22. Wildgoose

    titan 2 cutting issues

    If you are prefeeding and it will run straight on the way out but not stay straight on the way back, all this while no blade touching then you have a tracking issue for sure. They usually don't recommend messing with the tension on the pinch rollers but possibly one got messed with or has become weak. We have seen new owners immediately start cranking on the pinch roller springs and get all sorts of wonky. If you can get it running true in and out without a blade then adjust your blade appropriately and it starts dragging the vinyl out of track then you could have weak pinch rollers. (not common) Most of the time we see set up being wrong and too much force being applied which causes bunching and off-track. A remedy can be as simple as a high quality Clean Cut blade that uses less force to cut with. Cutting stencil though is probably rough and tough with lots of pressure. I make a couple passes if I cut stencil so I don't abuse my machine but mine has great tracking and will stay in the same grove.
  23. There is something to be said about weed direction too though. I know that some designs weed easier one way than another. You definitely need to be sure you are all set with your blade depth then pressure and speed but once that's dialed in the same design will often weed easier one way as apposed to another. Typically if I am having a fight in a certain areas I spin the thing around and come at it from the opposite corner or at a slant and get it to come up better. You don't mention your machine. The budget models will not produce as clean a cut as the higher end models and are more often touchy about fine tune.
  24. Wildgoose

    Help! Best transfer tape?

    651 is known to be a little tricky especially with detailed work. I use 4076 R-Tape which is just a little extra tack over the 4075. For detailed work if you are not doing large coverage areas consider trying out 751. It weeds nicer and will transfer like a dream. 951 even better yet.
  25. Wildgoose

    Signs Pricing

    You should have a local sign supply shop somewhere in your area. They will have several options for the plastic (usually called coroplast or similar. Some will be pre-cut but sometimes you have to buy a sheet and cut it down yourself with a table saw or carefully with a skill saw. The little wires will be sold separately. I don't do these often but when I did I just used cheap sign vinyl like the Greenstar or Oracal 651 on them. I'm not going to price out your job for you but I generally make a list of materials costs and then take a WAG on how long I'll be messing around with them and bill accordingly. Some of these kinds of things can be done much simpler by a big sign shop with a flatbed printer. I don't build many because I can't compete with the flatbed printed prices. There are videos out there showing people building the signs and how they have set up little jigs to hold the coroplast in place while they place the cut vinyl on them. Lots of options for those who are willing to think outside the box a little and get creative. Judging by your avator you are somewhere near Seattle. They will have either a Denco Sales or Sun Supply.