Wildgoose

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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. Wildgoose

    Over Lapping and centers being filled,when using the fill option.

    It’s usually something silly like that. It should do that automatically when you convert to curves from live text at least that’s how it works in AI. Those frustrating lessons are the ones that remain ingrained in our minds though so experience really IS the best teacher.
  2. Wildgoose

    Graphtec fc8000-100

    Same here. I don't run a Graphtec but do have a high end servo machine. It is capable of 800mm/sec but I run it at 200. That's plenty fast. I look at it like my mazarati does 185 but I wouldn't drive it that fast all the time. Why wear things out on an expensive fine tuned machine prematurely.
  3. Wildgoose

    My daughter wants a T shirt

    I started out doing or aiming to do sign work but have gravitated to 99% shirts and other forms of apparel. There is a lot stronger market IMO. Because I do SO many HTV projects I have trained myself to save my cut ready files already mirrored. On the rare occasion that I need to cut one of the designs out of sign vinyl it is immediately eye catching when it's backwards. I have never accidentally cut sign vinyl mirrored but definitely have done it wrong the other direction before I changed my workflow. One particularly painful job I loaded up a roll of HTV and set it to cutting many copies of a shirt graphic and didn't remember that it needed mirrored and ran through about 6 yards of material.
  4. Wildgoose

    Over Lapping and centers being filled,when using the fill option.

    I'm not a flexi person and have never used this option but it seems to be that your objects are not built properly. Your O for instance is being treated like two separate objects. You need to have made sure the O is a compound shape in that there is a hole through it rather than two circles in your case ovals that sit atop one another. I can tell you how to deal with this in Adobe but not flexi but maybe the info is enough for you to trouble shoot it.
  5. Wildgoose

    My daughter wants a T shirt

    USC does sell HTV by the foot. If you order other things throw some in. Siser says you can apply with an iron. I wouldn't expect it to last as well as if it was placed with a real press though. I would be skeptical of the off brands. Siser is my fav and stahls cad-cut my second. I do 98% with Siser. Watch the installation temp because a lot of other brands go on at higher temps like 320 or even higher in some cases. You will be cutting on the adhesive side so remember to mirror your graphic.
  6. Wildgoose

    splicing two colors

    I am not good at design with VM but you should have some tools to cut this into sections. In fact there are probably two or three ways to get there. I design in Adobe Illustrator so my skill set is not going to be helpful. In AI I would build the design then drop a rectangle over the part I wanted a different color and use it to divide the three sections. Bear in mind on the shirt it will be a little challenging to line all that up because once you press the first color it will cause things to shrink and expand and the next layer will be hard to get perfect alignment. You should always pre-heat your garment but even that will not stop the shrink and movement that happens with HTV. Best way I have found is to preheat extra long then press the first color just enough to get the carrier off (about 3 seconds with Siser) then quickly get the second layer on before it has chance to cool off too far. Still hard. I often design with some overlap to try and help. That particular design has those dividing lines and they will help hide misalignment so someone has their thinking cap on with that layout.
  7. Wildgoose

    BBQ Trophy

    Ha ha love the trophy . Mark I am jealous of your router.
  8. Glad you are rolling! One good trick to use when in doubt about an image is to view it in wire frame mode. What you see in wire frame is what the cutter will see. SO if you see just a square box and no image inside it is a raster image (picture made of pixels not vector lines and curves) If the design is already vectored you will see the lines. You will also see hidden things that will mess with your cut like clipping masks that artists use to apply gradient fills etc... Depending on where you buy graphic art you may see all sorts of things that aren't actually cut ready. Sometimes things like non-welded script text or even hidden items that were on another layer that they forgot to delete. I do most of my own artwork for this very reason but clients often send me "cut ready" vectors and about 2 in 10 are actually ready to go.
  9. Wildgoose

    help me find the font

    Closest I could find is Virtucorp Regular but it's not a perfect match. A lot of the racing numbers are sold as a customer set of numbers that aren't an actual font.
  10. Wildgoose

    Latest project

    Pops good and matches the overall building layout nicely.
  11. Wildgoose

    Help with easy company logo

    When I can't find the exact font (which happens a lot) I start with the closest I can find and then modify it until I'm happy with it. Typically I place the original image in the background of my design program and build the new one over the top so all the layout is correct. Others will auto trace and then clean up the nodes but I find that takes me too long. If you have skills with photoshop or gimp and make the image super clean and straight black and white it will auto trace better. Text rarely comes through good though and that's why I prefer to just build it from scratch. This just one mans opinion.
  12. Wildgoose

    Help with easy company logo

    Raleway bold or semi-bold is going to be very close on the OSWEGO font.
  13. Wildgoose

    Friendly Reminder

    Thanks arty. I lost my HD last winter on my mac (after 8 years). Luckily I had most everything except a few invoices for a couple months on a back up drive but it motivated me to step up my game so I have a double external redundant set running now and did a single on my wifes mac too. Costco had 5TB drives for like $89 or something silly so I bought us each one and I already had a 1TB hooked up to mine.
  14. Wildgoose

    VM, SCALP?

    I agree with Dakota, VM may take more learning to switch over and will possibly cost more if you upgrade to Letter or Pro but is by far a better design and cut program. If you do go that route and do upgrade it I would go to the Pro level. There is also Expert but most of those tools come into play with printing.
  15. Wildgoose

    Titan 3 Cutting Issue

    I use SignCut Pro 1 which has an Illustrator plug-in. I am a mac guy and it's the best option for mac (assuming you also use Adobe Illustrator which it sounds like you do). It is not free though. I like it because it will work on any cutter and on both mac and pc. I bought the lifetime dongle so I can load it on multiple computers and just plug in the dongle to cut from whichever one I need to. There is now a Pro 2 version that has some design options (Pro 1 does not, it's strictly a cutter interface) I have not played with Pro 2 at all because I do all my design in AI anyway.
  16. Tonero I see people do it. It depends on the paper you are using I think. The 3G for darks is definitely a type of vinyl product that you can contour cut and weed very similar to regular sign vinyl. I have even seen people do this with JPSS for light shirts but have never tried JPSS. I did a couple with 3G but the registration marks for the contour cut have to be out away from the graphic far enough that you lose a lot of your print space. I don't know of your plotter has an optical eve or if you have to manually line everything up. I usually just use transfer paper for white shirts with JPSS cause I don't like the feel of the 3G or any other type for darks. With JPSS it's faster to trim by hand with an exacto blade. Being a clear transfer product you can't really see the edges as long as you don't let them be a straight line. Do not pre wash your shirts. Several reasons: You will introduce more moisture, they shirt will do weird things and no longer lay flat properly, most washing detergent leaves residue and lastly there is usually a natural crease down the middle that the factory used to align the shirt when sewing it that helps align the logo. You can press your own crease but time is money and in any kind of volume you don't want to mess with washing or extra press time trying to get the moisture to steam out or throwing a crease to keep it all straight.
  17. Wildgoose

    57

    No luck on my search either. Definitely a racing font possibly a custom one off or from a special number set that is not an actual font/typeface.
  18. Wildgoose

    Help with VM Ltr

    Ah sweet glad you figured it out. VM is pretty awesome. If I was a windows platform dude I would be more into it myself.
  19. Wildgoose

    How to Connect MH 871 via USB

    Thanks for the feedback. Always helpful when we get someone that takes a moment and responds. <I pinned it so it won't get buried>
  20. Very few free cutting softwares. I have a friend who bought a Seiki and it came with the same Art Cut you have. I am experienced at cutting for 9 or 10 years now and I could not get that software to work it was very buggy and would not connect. There are probably people with more technical computer knowledge that could get it to work but it was beyond my skills. I had them download and try out the free trial of SignCut Pro. It is a paid program but offers a trial period. If you have budget constraints it probably isn't what you are looking for but it might at least get you cutting for the free period.
  21. Wildgoose

    New to software...need help please

    As you can probably tell from the varied answers above there are usually several different ways to do things that ALL work fine. Nothing wrong with just making the whole thing and chopping out the part you want like motion effects showed. Pre-cut templates are nice too but require the extra skills which in your case means a few mistakes and do-overs. I did one once that I just applied the graphic over the area and let it hang off the edges and trimmed it before removing the app tape. If templates are small enough to scan I have made them with a piece of app tape or paper and scanned them so I had the perfect size. When you start getting to the size of a window where you import the pic and trace it from the pic you can easily get distorted if your angle of the pic is not perfectly straight. If you are just going for rough size and staying away from the edges like when doing business graphics on a car door or window then that works just fine. If you are trying to hit a perfect window size it will take a few tries and tweaks to get it perfect. There are car templates you can buy that the wrap guys use but I don't know how accurate they are and every wrap I have seen they cut things bigger and trim the excess so what does that tell you. Whichever way you go it will be a learning curve but learning through doing is the best anyhow. You can watch 1000 videos but until you have some hands on it only goes so far. I would suggest using a graphics software you either already know or one that everyone else uses or you'll be totally on your own. Inkscape you called INscape is a good place to start because its free and compatible with windows and mac alike. I don't use it myself but there are several who do. It is totally capable of doing the type of graphics you are looking at. No matter the design program you choose you will have some learning to do to get a cut-ready file. The design element of this craft is sometimes the achilles heel that some never make it past. It takes some willingness to practice and learn.
  22. Wildgoose

    Remove drawing border .dxf

    Sounds like you figured it out however you STILL should be able to ungroup and select any object and delete at will.
  23. Wildgoose

    Heatpress won't heat up

    Must have a short on the wire or the element is out. Is it new?
  24. Wildgoose

    Remove drawing border .dxf

    I don't run a Graphtec and so do not have that particular software however all vector programs are working on the same basic principals. Some go about getting things done a little differently so you methods to do what you describe may be different than I would go about them in Adobe Illustrator. I will try to help you anyhow. 1. You should be able to select the border with one of the selection options. It may need to be ungrouped or there may be a special selection option that does not elect everything else. Once you figure out how to select just the border then just delete it. If the total combined graphic is a compound path you may see weird things happen with the inside of letters that have a hole in them like a small e. If you take a look in wireframe mode you will be able to see if all the other lines are there still (this if you had something go wonky and letters are filled in) Whatever you see in wire frame is what the cutter sees. 2. Most of us don't use dxf unless you do some other software that needs them like perhaps a plasma cutter. Even then I would suggest working in something more widely accepted like EPS or SVG. I have occasionally opened dxf files from clients and they tend to be messy IMO. If you are worried about scale and the rulers on your program are not easily seen or used I sometimes just create a box in the dimension I want and build to that. For instance fonts tend to be varied in actual height so a 200 pt letter in one font is not the same in another. If I want a 2" letter max height I make a 2" box and use it as a scale to check what size to make my font when I first set it up or if I am resizing.
  25. Wildgoose

    sIZE

    You need to calibrate your cutter most likely. I can't remember how to calibrate the cutter in VM Pro but this video may help even though it is for the CUT version. I didn't have time to even watch the vid so if it doesn't please let me know.