Wildgoose

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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. I have had Epson WF for ever but the heads clog with the pigment ink. Maybe the other brands pigment are better. We finally gave up and bought a Brother MFC-J985DW that is supposed to be a real ink miser. So far it's done great and definitely uses a lot less ink than the WF. Connects well to our mac and prints off wi-fi from all devices in the house. The only think I can find to complain about is the paper tray is a little strange to add paper the way you go about it. It's about half the size of the WF 7620 it replaced. I still have all my carts for the WF and if I get another decent transfer project I may buy another one and when done swap the ink out for some dye based so it doesn't clog again. I have two both clogged and have spent a lot of time trying to get them unclogged with no luck.
  2. Wildgoose

    Step size not saving for graphtec

    I have never been a huge fan of the SCALP program. I know it's the main option for mac users. In the old USC used to sell dongles for SignCut Pro 1, I don't know what happened to that relationship but they don't anymore which is sad. SignCut is a great mac option if you continue to have issues you might give them a try on the free trial. They are mac and pc cross platform compatible so will work on either. They have several options for internet key lease arrangements or you can just buy a lifetime dongle which is what I did. There is a new pro 2 out but I design in AI so pro 1 is perfect for what I need as it's just a cutting interface with all the bells and whistles like nesting and tiling and etc... When I upgraded to the Summa I looked at about everything available out there and ended up sticking with SignCut because it would do both platforms. It actually came with my original USCutter P-Cut cutter, 1 year free use. I normally cut from a windows 7 laptop that has my quickbooks on it and do all my design on my iMac but just this week my laptop cord broke (when a certain dog used it as a chew toy) so I was really glad I could wheel the cutter over to my iMac and continue cutting. The dongle makes computer hopping easy because you don't have to switch the internet key over and you don't need internet connectivity either.
  3. Wildgoose

    HTV with mug press?

    That is MY design that I made up and offset a from center little so they weren't too symmetrical. The feet size are precut so once printed you just push them out and add the rubber toe holders. Nifty and my kids loved them.
  4. Reflective is definitely hard on blades and I don't cut it often. That stuff should be about 8 mil roughly 0.20mm so you can cut that with a lower profile blade that will have a tougher tip. See if you can find something with a flatter profile. I run a Summa and the standard blade is 36 deg. Everyone always talks about using the 60 deg blades to cut fine details. I cut fine details with the 36 deg without issue so that theory is probably questionable. I do like the thought process of it and have tried a 60 deg clean cut but did not noticed any difference with fine detail or with flipping up edges of small parts so I couldn't prove any kind of advantage. The lower profile standard blades are more affordable and last a really long time so I stick with them. Also just for conversation sake I tried to do the two pass method on some reflective HTV and found that it actually sanded off my tip so I had better luck with a solid full depth cut. I bought a little magnifier that I could get a close up of the tip to see what was really happening. HTV vinyls typically have a much tougher liner that you can cut harder into without going through so the pressure is a little more forgiving than paper backed regular vinyl.
  5. Wildgoose

    HTV with mug press?

    Here are pics of the flip flops. Conde Systems sells a lot of sublimatable items. Not cheap but pretty cool.
  6. Wildgoose

    HTV with mug press?

    The Sublimation is a little spendy to get set up (especially if you go with the good printers rather than the cheap epson route that I tried) and also pretty technical to learn but the "cool" factor is off the charts. I don't have a good outlet to make it pay off for me so I don't do much anymore but when I was producing sublimated items I did some dog tags, a couple of clipboards, some flip flops and a few light switch covers that all turned out about as cool as you could ask. If I had a brick and mortar store with walk in business I know I could sell that type of thing pretty easy. I do primarily apparel and the sublimated shirts were ok too but being limited to 100% white polyester was just too limited to make it pay off. I did some softball jerseys that were white bodied with red sleeves and the team really liked them. I never did mugs but have seen some really nice looking ones done by members here.
  7. Wildgoose

    Cutout rubber design on hats question

    Yes that's the same experience I have had. Best when used for very simple shapes. Great look though although you need to put a long dwell time on the heat or it can pull back up sometimes.
  8. Wildgoose

    HTV with mug press?

    Yup. dc is spot on. HTV has a very thin film of adhesive that is specifically designed to adhere to certain types of cloth. There are variations even within the HTV options in order to change the cloth like those made to handle nylon. Mug presses are built to sublimate up at the 400deg range. It's a fascinating process but nothing like what you are attempting.
  9. Wildgoose

    Upgrading really old setup

    Kido I deleted your other duplicate post. I don't know that you meant to double post or not but we try to keep it to one thread so future searchers have a better chance of learning from your journey.
  10. Wildgoose

    Vinyl on vinyl.

    Or a dry application and a wet removal. spray your app tape after you get it all in place and it will often help release the tape. (paper only)
  11. Wildgoose

    Vinyl on vinyl.

    Dumb question but are you pulling the tape off properly? You should pull the app tape off as flat as you can so there is only sideways tension and as little uplift as possible. I sometimes even fold it back on itself so it's completely touching on the smooth side and just use the tackiness of what has been exposed as traction for my hands to peel it off.
  12. Wildgoose

    Registration marks

    I usually make my own registration marks. I use a diamond or sometimes a + mark and place them where I want them. Once I have them in place I group them and copy and then paste them in place again so there are a stack. One set for each color, then change the colors so each color layer has a set to go with it and when you cut out your designs they will each show up and all be in the same place. When you view the project you are only going to see the top color because the rest are all underneath but the'll come along with each successive color layer. I don't like where the computer thinks a registration mark should be so I put them where they make more sense and often save some wasted vinyl.
  13. Wildgoose

    Little help please

    I do work for a couple clubs in our area and have done literally over a thousand jerseys in the last 5 years. I can attest to how picky some of the clubs can be. Rules wise if they all match and meet the guidelines you will be fine but if they are mixing old uniforms into the new ones you might have to be more careful. I bet they will let a "close" font match be as long as your colors and placement match. The biggest thing we have to watch for on the national teams is the number size and width at the slimmest part and the location center of front and back etc... Good luck. I have found it can be very lucrative if you get in with a large group. I have several girls who play so I have a natural connection to the club and our HS.
  14. Wildgoose

    vinylmaster cut v4.0

    Fair enough, Sorry I did not give you an answer. I do have a copy of VM to try and learn however it's not here at my normal computer because I run a mac without a windows interface so I keep it on a computer at my day job. When I get time enough to spare I do some designs to gradually understand the program and hopefully help out. Not able to tell you off the cuff what steps to take to get to the color choice options. BUT I can tell you that I did quick search online and found these links. The first one is a link to a whole host of training videos. Then I just read down through them until I found the second one that seems to be what you are looking for at the moment. https://www.youtube.com/user/futurecorporation/videos Hope this helps. I don't know what you did for hours but I spent just a few minutes and was able to find these resources. Didn't mean to offend you but we get SOOO many people who post a question without searching at all and when you spend a few years on here trying to help out it gets frustrating when people won't take the effort to help themselves. We are all end users who have jobs and are trying to build our own files and offer our help to the new folks where and when we can. VM is a fairly new addition to the line-up so there are far less of us schooled on the in's and out's. I'm an Adobe Illustrator guy who can answer probably about any thing you come up with related to cutter designs in AI but I'm lacking in VM. Good day to you.
  15. Wildgoose

    vinylmaster cut v4.0

    She means if you press the F1 key on your keyboard (while in the VM program) it will pull up the entire help menu with details on this and all other functions. This is a users forum for help but we still expect at least a modicum of effort doing your own searching.
  16. Wildgoose

    Little help please

    What brand of jerseys are they? I do a lot of Volleyball products and have found that several of the manufacturers offer their own unique fonts and that might be whats going on with this one. I am not at my home computer to give a try on my FMF but did a search on whatfontis on line and it couldn't match it either. When I can't find a match I generally let the club director know I can't find the font or in some cases it's a commercial font that is going to cost $80 if they REALLY want it and usually they just say get as close as possible and call it good. If it's just the club name and not a bunch of additional text you can hand trace it out and then use something else for the numbers and such. When I do a hand trace I find the closest font I can and turn it to outlines and then manipulate the individual letters until they match. The sloping serifs are a bit unique on that one.
  17. Wildgoose

    Pulling my Hair out

    I'm not awesome with VM but essentially you will start with the square and round the corners then start dropping the other elements on top of it and knocking them out so they create a hole or gap where they intersect. Might want to do them one at a time since you're learning. The @ symbol you will outline to create the space around the swoop and use the outline to knock out the space or you can trace that out by hand.
  18. Wildgoose

    Font Identification

    Hard to tell from that pic. The S is pretty distinctive the rest are pretty basic. You'll have to get a better pic if you are trying to match that.
  19. Wildgoose

    SC2 Cut examples with photos

    Here is a link to the premium blades. I am not clear on whether these will fit your cutter for sure though. https://www.uscutter.com/GreenStar-Premium-Roland-Compatible-Blades-60Degree-3Pack
  20. Wildgoose

    SC2 Cut examples with photos

    I do lots of HTV work and also use the same basic setting as for regular sign vinyl. You need a sharp blade for it though so if you have a damaged tip it could cause issues. Sometimes the tip will get broken or I have even sanded it off so to speak when cutting glitter so that when viewed up close with a microscope it is rounded. Still cuts regular vinyl but won't get through the HTV. If you haven't already you might try some premium blades. They really do make a difference. We tend to steer people toward Clean Cut blades. I haven't looked for a while and Dakota can chime in but I thought USCutter was selling a premium blade now, possibly made by CC? Glitter is more of a PIA and will ruin a blade in a hurry IMO. I avoid it. Less longevity on the garment as well.
  21. Post a pic it might help too. Some of the cheaper presses have weak pins and they wear out relatively quickly if not lubed well. If yours are worn it could effect the over center ability to the point it won't allow it to lock again. I have heard of people drilling the pin holes out and installing larger ones to get a tight fit again.
  22. Wildgoose

    Send your children out of the room.

    You are welcome to send me a PM. You know how to do that?
  23. Wildgoose

    Send your children out of the room.

    I'm so busy that I don't even take on new work sorry. We did $7K worth of hoodies last week. It's that season. 15" press will get you started if you also grab a press pillow or two. I would suggest the swing away style, it gives you more ability to look down on the shirt and get things aligned. You will want to develop a system for squaring up the design on the shirt. Most shirts have a slight crease down the middle that is USUALLY centered, not always. I call this a build crease and I think they use it two sew when they actually make the shirts. If it's not visible just carefully fold it and press it for a couple seconds to form a center crease. Then you can use a clear plastic craft ruler if you have one or buy some sort of alignment guide purpose built. I have a couple of the Fiskars rulers with 1/4" lines along them. The basic layout is usually around 3 inches down from the neck collar and around 4 inches over to the center on a left chest logo. There are several alignment guides out there but all of them are only so-so accurate. There is no single one spot. It changes depending on the shirt style and size so you have to develop an eye for it. If the design is big enough to just align it by eye without the ruler I use a finger count to get them all similar, like two fingers down from the neck or three. A full hand down from the neck on back of a hoodie so there is room for the hood to hang without completely covering the logo. I usually lay one out on a table and just set the logo on and see what looks right and take a couple measurements before I press one. Nothing worse than having someones logo tucked under their armpit. Later when I got bigger and busy I bought a high end cutter and high end press (Fusion) and a $300 laser alignment system from Hotronix that has up to 4 red lasers that I set to keep everything square and all the same. This has been especially helpful with the sports jerseys that have a logo and a separate individual number and all need to look the same layout.
  24. Wildgoose

    Send your children out of the room.

    Shirts and apparel is where the sweet spot is in my little side business. Signs are viable but also often demand installation which is where it gets more involved and risky. Hard to compete with the big shops who run flat bed printers. They pump out a 4'x8' for sale sign for $190 around here and do full color print decals for vehicles that are also hard to compete with. I actually did both for a long time but slid over to the apparel side as the demand built. I do maybe 5% signage and 95% apparel and the signage is for my shirt customers LOL. Best part for me, a part timer, is you can work in all weather and all times of the day or night. I hold down a day job and do the other at night or weekends. I got into team sports as well as shirts and have several clubs and schools that I build jerseys and parent gear for.
  25. I'm not a corel or SignBlazer user but the CMX file format is likely the issue. You will want to export in .eps format and if Corel has any eps formatting options try to choose something very old. LOL Signblazer is abandonware and is just holding on by the last pieces of gristle.